Dude your videos are way underrated. I learned how to do a quick and dirty fret polish with 2000 grit sand paper and steel wool from you, this, and muting springs with electrical tape around the end. Your one video where you teach people how to get a good string wind was gold. And thanks for turning me onto "The Good Stuff".
Thanks man! I dont do fancy editing just plop the cellphone up and have at it lol. More than likely that is why I dont get subs. I just like to give some setup tips and play metal.
@@cappy781 Regardless dude you have a lot of good information. I'm working on an old Kramer Striker that was refit with a Japanese Focus neck. It's one of the Floyds without the fine tuners. I found a Floyd original base plate but the nut was stripped. This video was a godsend. Probably gonna try sanding down the shelf and making beer can shims to get the height right.
I have to sand the nut bottoms down on almost all floyd locking nuts because the first fret sting action is so high. I just remove the nut, and use an extra course diamond knife sharpening stone. It takes a while, but it's worth it to me. I can't stand high strings at the nut.
Yes I ended up with a project that was 10" Radius nut,12" radius Neck and 14" Radius trem bridge. FR is 10" and Gotoh is 14" Both trem and Nut. My assumption was all 12" so I redid the fretboard 12" and switched to a R2 which is 10"....
Lol you dropped the camera! It's really strange in the huge differences in nuts over the eras. Great video and wise info. I wonder if floyd makes these for specific radiuses? Like that esp guitar I mentioned in the other video is 12" radius but what if the nut was meant for 9.5"? Anyway I subscribed just on the strength of the awesome accent alone, thanks for the info man!
What I meant by specific radiuses is that I know R2 is for a specific radius but in my experience it doesn't work exactly right. For instance, floyd's are shipped with a shim under the bridge saddles for 10" radius. Without the shim is 12". Which radius is the nut then? It can't really be both can it?
I have the exact same problem. I have a used ESP LTD ST203FR and the threads were stripped on the nut (not sure if it is the original nut). So I removed it (it says R1 on it, even though it measures like an R2) and ordered an R2 replacement, and the action is WAY high at the first fret. I was gonna file down the nut slot, but it has two metal posts in the wood. Not quite sure where I'm going to source the correct height nut from.
Funny thing is I almost took this video down because no one gives a shit but I said maybe someone else will need this info. Its to bad guitar player wanna watch the same fuckin review videos over and over they might learn something.
Thanks for this! My 2014 B.C. Rich Mockingbird Pro X has a 43mm, true OFR Germany. Would an R3 nut replace it? Because the slot for the G string is too high. Every time I play a note 5th fret or below it is stupidly sharp. OR, is there a safe way to file it smooth so it won't just snap the string from metal burrs when I bend or clamp it?? Thanks in advance!!!
Yes a original ofr nut should be fine. Thats a little odd only the g string is sharp. Do you know how to check nut/string height over the first fret? If not there are videos out there explaining how.
@@cappy781 so yes a R3 will be a perfect replacement then? And yeah it is weird that it's only the G. I do know how to check the height yes, got to teach at a mom n pop shop with some super great luthiers. Learned a lot for free! Lol. The action was high so I shaved down the wood and that made it perfect but the G is still whacked out. Makes no sense!! $1600 guitar too! But I got my store discount.
@@cappy781 ahh so expensive though, $48-$60! I think I may use a diamond file on the slot and see if I can smooth it out first. If I can't, then FR or Schaller. Thanks again man!
@@cappy781 I’ve also found that if you have slipping issues from the nut, you could just replace the clamps with the original German FR clamps. Usually they fit.
The nut height on my 2020 Nightswan is super high. I just ordered an Original R2 nut cause I heard once you remove the Korean nut the screws are stripped. The import nut looks like it'd be better for the Nightswan though with the lower shelf and flatter radius?
I ended up taking mine to the shop. They advised shaving the nut itself over filing the nut shelf. Should have it back next week. Hope it works because I've wanted this guitar since the late 80's when I saw the Vivian Campbell ad that in the old guitar magazines. I'll let you know how it turns out.
@@nathanchalcraft6919 the nut is smaller width than the fretboard. The stings will actually be tucked further away from the edges of the fretboard. Its actually ok to do something like this as ive seen a few players that prefer it. Some esp George lynch guitars are r5 width neck using a r3 nut. George lynch specs. So yes you can swap in a r1 nut thats up to you
Just got burned by this. I bought an R3 which is what the guitar is speced for and the shelf is way high. Not really sure what to do, old nut is worn out strings cut into it. Dunno which nut to get
Oldschool floyd nuts dont have a opinion for top mount with woodscrews. They only have the Allen screw through the neck mount. Thats how you can spot the older nuts Look where the strings sit on the nut if there is no recession for top mount screws your good to go bro
I've got a newer Ltd George Lynch tiger and believe it has the wrong nut because it's like you said the high action on the lower frets. Can you point me in the right direction as to what kind of nut I need?
If it's original to the guitar then might just be a nut shelf that needs to be milled down a bit. If the nut is not original to the guitar your going to want to find a import style nut and might need a few shims to get the action where you want it
Dude your videos are way underrated. I learned how to do a quick and dirty fret polish with 2000 grit sand paper and steel wool from you, this, and muting springs with electrical tape around the end. Your one video where you teach people how to get a good string wind was gold. And thanks for turning me onto "The Good Stuff".
Thanks man! I dont do fancy editing just plop the cellphone up and have at it lol. More than likely that is why I dont get subs. I just like to give some setup tips and play metal.
@@cappy781 Regardless dude you have a lot of good information. I'm working on an old Kramer Striker that was refit with a Japanese Focus neck. It's one of the Floyds without the fine tuners. I found a Floyd original base plate but the nut was stripped. This video was a godsend. Probably gonna try sanding down the shelf and making beer can shims to get the height right.
That works good dude!
great vid< you save me money
Schaller now has the Lockmeister you can get a nut with 8, 10, 12, 14 or 16 inch radius and 10, 12, 14 or 16 for the bridge.
Yea dude im about to change some sht out and this video fkin helped TONs for sure
Good im glad. That's basically why I made the channel to help. No fancy editing just me and my phone lol
I have to sand the nut bottoms down on almost all floyd locking nuts because the first fret sting action is so high. I just remove the nut, and use an extra course diamond knife sharpening stone. It takes a while, but it's worth it to me. I can't stand high strings at the nut.
Yup its a bitch lol
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Yes I ended up with a project that was 10" Radius nut,12" radius Neck and 14" Radius trem bridge.
FR is 10" and Gotoh is 14" Both trem and Nut. My assumption was all 12" so I redid the fretboard 12" and switched to a R2 which is 10"....
Lol you dropped the camera! It's really strange in the huge differences in nuts over the eras. Great video and wise info. I wonder if floyd makes these for specific radiuses? Like that esp guitar I mentioned in the other video is 12" radius but what if the nut was meant for 9.5"? Anyway I subscribed just on the strength of the awesome accent alone, thanks for the info man!
What I meant by specific radiuses is that I know R2 is for a specific radius but in my experience it doesn't work exactly right. For instance, floyd's are shipped with a shim under the bridge saddles for 10" radius. Without the shim is 12". Which radius is the nut then? It can't really be both can it?
Nice
I have the exact same problem. I have a used ESP LTD ST203FR and the threads were stripped on the nut (not sure if it is the original nut). So I removed it (it says R1 on it, even though it measures like an R2) and ordered an R2 replacement, and the action is WAY high at the first fret. I was gonna file down the nut slot, but it has two metal posts in the wood. Not quite sure where I'm going to source the correct height nut from.
Import nut! Look up the Korean floyd stuff
Funny thing is I almost took this video down because no one gives a shit but I said maybe someone else will need this info. Its to bad guitar player wanna watch the same fuckin review videos over and over they might learn something.
Jackson Japanese floyd nuts are the same shelf height also but r3
The degree only determines the length of the arc, not the size of the radius.
Thanks for this! My 2014 B.C. Rich Mockingbird Pro X has a 43mm, true OFR Germany. Would an R3 nut replace it? Because the slot for the G string is too high. Every time I play a note 5th fret or below it is stupidly sharp. OR, is there a safe way to file it smooth so it won't just snap the string from metal burrs when I bend or clamp it??
Thanks in advance!!!
Yes a original ofr nut should be fine. Thats a little odd only the g string is sharp. Do you know how to check nut/string height over the first fret? If not there are videos out there explaining how.
@@cappy781 so yes a R3 will be a perfect replacement then?
And yeah it is weird that it's only the G. I do know how to check the height yes, got to teach at a mom n pop shop with some super great luthiers. Learned a lot for free! Lol. The action was high so I shaved down the wood and that made it perfect but the G is still whacked out. Makes no sense!! $1600 guitar too! But I got my store discount.
@@fadetoblack1290 definitely replace the nut with a schaller made ofr.
@@cappy781 ahh so expensive though, $48-$60! I think I may use a diamond file on the slot and see if I can smooth it out first. If I can't, then FR or Schaller. Thanks again man!
I’ve noticed this problem with swapping out Floyds. I usually just keep the factory locking nut on the neck.
Best thing to do man. This gets a lot of people in a mess lol. Unless its slipping strings leave it alone.
@@cappy781 I’ve also found that if you have slipping issues from the nut, you could just replace the clamps with the original German FR clamps. Usually they fit.
That works unless the nut is grooved also. I replaced so many cheap parts with original floyd parts and the nut issue is a pia lol
@@cappy781 that’s true as well, fortunately I’ve been lucky that’s never happened to me yet.
Have you ever swap an Jackson JT6 for a Floyd Rose ? I've read it should be no problem.
Any advice ?
Np at all
The nut height on my 2020 Nightswan is super high. I just ordered an Original R2 nut cause I heard once you remove the Korean nut the screws are stripped. The import nut looks like it'd be better for the Nightswan though with the lower shelf and flatter radius?
Radius should be the same
Nut is high on the new Nightswan I just bought
How did the new R2 work for you?
@@tuberocker69 It didn't help much. I ended up selling the nightswan.
I ended up taking mine to the shop. They advised shaving the nut itself over filing the nut shelf.
Should have it back next week.
Hope it works because I've wanted this guitar since the late 80's when I saw the Vivian Campbell ad that in the old guitar magazines.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
@@tuberocker69 I have an LTD kh-602 that needs the nut lowered as well. I wish they could get it right at the factory
Do you think I should replace the r2 nut on my 2021 kramer nightswan for an r1 nut like on the originals from the 80s?
No because the neck is the correct width for the r2 nut.
@@cappy781 what would happen if I do swap it to an r1?
@@nathanchalcraft6919 the nut is smaller width than the fretboard. The stings will actually be tucked further away from the edges of the fretboard. Its actually ok to do something like this as ive seen a few players that prefer it. Some esp George lynch guitars are r5 width neck using a r3 nut. George lynch specs. So yes you can swap in a r1 nut thats up to you
@@cappy781 I honestly might try to try and restore the kramer nighswan to it's original status. Thanks for the advice man!
Just got burned by this. I bought an R3 which is what the guitar is speced for and the shelf is way high. Not really sure what to do, old nut is worn out strings cut into it. Dunno which nut to get
Oldschool floyd nuts dont have a opinion for top mount with woodscrews. They only have the Allen screw through the neck mount. Thats how you can spot the older nuts Look where the strings sit on the nut if there is no recession for top mount screws your good to go bro
I've got a newer Ltd George Lynch tiger and believe it has the wrong nut because it's like you said the high action on the lower frets. Can you point me in the right direction as to what kind of nut I need?
If it's original to the guitar then might just be a nut shelf that needs to be milled down a bit. If the nut is not original to the guitar your going to want to find a import style nut and might need a few shims to get the action where you want it
@@cappy781 it's the original, so does the slot need to be filed down then? Don't know if I should buy a different one.
Take it to a tech or luthier
Which is compatible with kramer v model?
Also the German nut vs the floyd rose special nut has quiet a difference to.
I recently discovered this when moving from a special to an original. I thought I could just drop it in, but not really