By far the best video on how to explain this problem. Especially the part where you tap out the cups after the bearings. I haven't seen anyone doing that. I'm working on a carbon frame where I had to hammer out a badly seized bearing, damaging the chp in the process. Looks like the cup is also made from carbon. Is it still ok to tap out??? Bit worried. All replies appreciated. Thanks.
cool vid. 2 questions, 1: is there a torque spec for the non drive side? it looks like you just tightened until flush. 2: what was the blue grease you put on the dust caps? thanks
2000triathlete I believe there is a torque spec, but I had a hard time looking for an adapter for my twrench. I went to 3 lbs's in my area and explained my situation. They all suggested to just "tighten till flush". The blue grease is just park tool standard grease. Bb is still running silent and spins smoother than previous bb(fsa)
Thanks for the video. I have a 2014 SS EVO that has a super tight she'll that causes the BB bearings to be preloaded and notchy. It seems like this would be quite a bit stiffer BB system than the stock as well. Any more feedback now about stiffness, durability, etc?
I replaced the bb30 bearings off of my alloy road bike(caad 10) because of creaking. Noise went away, then after a few months noise came back. I then saw a youtube video suggesting seat post as the culprit. Pulled out the seat post, cleaned it, re-greased and re-torqued. Noise is gone again. Might be worth trying.Good luck, good riding and thank you.
I was was also getting a clicking sound whenever I pushed hard on the pedals. I checked EVERYTHING, pedals, seat post, wheel skewers, new bottom bracket, greased all parts of crank set, but was still getting the clicking noise with hard pedaling, local bike shops weren't able to figure it out. It turned out it was the interface between the Cannondale OPI Spider Ring front chain ring and the drive crank arm. I had to buy the Cannondale tool to remove the front chain ring and put some grease in between the crank arm and chain ring (not the threads), then re tighten it to the appropriate torque.
I'm interested in the fact that you only needed one BB wrench to tighten it in. I needed to brace the drive side with a second wrench because it turned. (Nothing to worry about. It just means than my bike hasn't such a tight fit). Also you didn't use a torque wrench. (They say 36-50Nm). Mine started creaking after a couple of hundred miles. WM suggested I give it a quarter turn, So I re-torqued it to 35Nm - a half turn!. Its better but not quite there so I'm waiting for a better tool so I can hold both sides properly and torque it all the way. Again its reasonable that assemblies settle and need a torque check after a couple of months. Did yours settle at all?
bitumen83 it was more of a creaking and squeaking noise in my case. I chased the noise elsewhere before I decided to change my bb. I dismantled, re-greased, re-assembled and tighten all (seat post, stem ,handlebars, skewers, mech hangers and etc.)
Hello, I have a 2014 EVO, and the BB on mine has very tight bearings. They will hardly spin by hand, so I had them replaced, and then outside of the bike, they now spin freely, and the new ones have the same problem in the frame. The crank turns okay, but I can't help but think there is unnecessary resistance. It seems that the PF cups are too tight in the frame, and my hopes are that replacing them with metal cups like the one you used would help. Any experience with this? How do you like the Wheels MFG unit?
Hello Brian Davis, I love the wheels mfg. bb, although I added a few more grams to bike, this bb system solved a nagging noise problem for me. The tolerances on these frames are so tight that a slight manufacturing defect could affect the performance and life of the stock bbs. You might want to consider checking the surface where the bearings are in contact with the frame and see if there’s extra material such as paint, clear coat or residue that is affecting the tolerances around the bb frame. Installation alignment of the bearings is also critical and if the issue persist, a $60 usd wheels mfg system, in my opinion is worth it. To date I have put on about 3,000 miles on the bbs I’ve installed in this video and still runs smooth and quiet. I also use this bike on zwift (on line indoor trainer sessions). I hope this helps and good luck to you sir.
grease in bearings from factory is heavy will break in, but i remove grease and add ceramicspeed tt grease at 1/4 fill. also bb30 needs to be exactly straight any crookedness will cause binding, as well of lack of proper spacers
After watching this again, do you think this could have been done without a bearing press and just using the threads to tighten and pull the BB into the frame?
I don’t think so Brian Davis because the drive side part of this bb need to be inserted far enough to make contact with the non drive side. You probably can use other method to press it in, but I’m not sure if proper alignment can be achieved.
Thanks, did the repair this weekend, and it was a piece of cake. I was way more concerned than necessary. I stuck the metal parts in the freezer for a bit, and that allowed enough constriction on their part to allow them to be pressed in more easily. So far, much better! Thanks for the video.
Why replace it? I would prefer PF30. If the bearing goes bad, just pop those bearings out and replace new ones. Also the shell aluminum cups that you remove are compatible with Power meter. The threaded one won’t work with power meter.
puruy i cant understand how it s possible to put a bottom bracket pf30 in a frameset cannondale which is built only for bb30. there is a diameter difference
fabio you can only replace a pressfit 30 bb into a bb30 and not the other way around. I don't think you can convert a bb30 frame into a pf30 unless unless you can remove the whole bb30 shell. I basically removed the pf30 cups and replaced it with a bb30 shell and bearings.
Lots of confusion because of the sticker on the frame. The frame is indeed pF30 with a 46 mm hole. It is not a BB30 bottom bracket shell with a 42 mm hole, but just a bike that was sold with a crank having a 30 mm spindle (called BB30). Cannondale did make some bikes with a BB30 shell and these house the bearings directly, in a 42 mm hole, but it is not what is shown here.
Yeah, No. Snake oil. One major creaking issue was not addressed and that's installation alignment. If you're using a bolt and washers to press, garauntee noise and premature bearing fail. Get a decent tool. More cups and adaptors just means more interfaces and wag, especially if Delron is anywhere in there.
Press Fit was not designed correctly that is why it creaks. The older steel square taper shaft design used for decades never had this issue. The BB30 does not have an actual steel housing inside the frame so that the outer bearing walls can't wiggle. This is why bearings can not be press fit unless they are pressed into a strong steel housing this is how it is done in manufacturing industry. I don't think anyone from the 20th century would of been this stupid to design this concept of bb30.
pardo(dot)net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-180.html They do break and they come in at at least six spindle lengths, making getting right length for your chain line a guessing game.
Has anybody 'felt' how smooth WHEELS MANUFACTURING BB'S re compared to CANE CREEK or even CHRIS KING? (don't chime in stupidly if you have not, stay quiet)
Good video, explains everything well. Anything missed requires a small amount common sense. Thanks for making it. 👍🏻
Ben Bell thank you sir.
If you are working on a BB 30 bottom bracket I highly recommend using Enduro's tool. No hammers and better alignment.
Whata horrific process. Great vid but i would sooner pack that shell with c4 and get myself a bike with a bb60. Lifes too short for such bollox😎
Hope the future is BB threaded, never pounding or forcing a BB again.
T47
I didn't see how you got the crank arm off.
By far the best video on how to explain this problem. Especially the part where you tap out the cups after the bearings. I haven't seen anyone doing that. I'm working on a carbon frame where I had to hammer out a badly seized bearing, damaging the chp in the process. Looks like the cup is also made from carbon. Is it still ok to tap out??? Bit worried. All replies appreciated. Thanks.
instaBlaster.
Groovy soundtrack.
I wanted to buy a MTB frame this year, I waited for the 2020 model to be available for the only reason that it's got a threaded BB.
cool vid. 2 questions, 1: is there a torque spec for the non drive side? it looks like you just tightened until flush. 2: what was the blue grease you put on the dust caps? thanks
2000triathlete I believe there is a torque spec, but I had a hard time looking for an adapter for my twrench. I went to 3 lbs's in my area and explained my situation. They all suggested to just "tighten till flush". The blue grease is just park tool standard grease. Bb is still running silent and spins smoother than previous bb(fsa)
I thought it was press fit frame adapter to using threaded bb
Thanks for the video. I have a 2014 SS EVO that has a super tight she'll that causes the BB bearings to be preloaded and notchy. It seems like this would be quite a bit stiffer BB system than the stock as well. Any more feedback now about stiffness, durability, etc?
bdcd16 your welcome still spinning quiet and smooth got 3k on the this bb now. I also use it on the trainer and no issues so far.
When you removed the original PF30 that cannondale used on this bike...Was the original PF30 shell cup bonded with Blue or green loctite?
popitn2nd I did not see any signs of bonding agents were used. The contact points where the pressfit cups attached to the frame were dry.
what size wrench did you use? I ordered one (cup type) and it was the wrong size.
They go from threaded fit to press fit then right back to threaded again. Kind of makes you wonder who was in charge of all that.
Somebody really drunk 🥴
I replaced by BB30 with the threaded BB too but it stills creaky...Maybe a little less creaks but more pops...
I replaced the bb30 bearings off of my alloy road bike(caad 10) because of creaking. Noise went away, then after a few months noise came back. I then saw a youtube video suggesting seat post as the culprit. Pulled out the seat post, cleaned it, re-greased and re-torqued. Noise is gone again. Might be worth trying.Good luck, good riding and thank you.
Hmm, I will try that...Now I am getting almost more of a clicking sound more than a creak...Ill see what happens, thanks
I was was also getting a clicking sound whenever I pushed hard on the pedals. I checked EVERYTHING, pedals, seat post, wheel skewers, new bottom bracket, greased all parts of crank set, but was still getting the clicking noise with hard pedaling, local bike shops weren't able to figure it out. It turned out it was the interface between the Cannondale OPI Spider Ring front chain ring and the drive crank arm.
I had to buy the Cannondale tool to remove the front chain ring and put some grease in between the crank arm and chain ring (not the threads), then re tighten it to the appropriate torque.
I'm interested in the fact that you only needed one BB wrench to tighten it in. I needed to brace the drive side with a second wrench because it turned. (Nothing to worry about. It just means than my bike hasn't such a tight fit). Also you didn't use a torque wrench. (They say 36-50Nm). Mine started creaking after a couple of hundred miles. WM suggested I give it a quarter turn, So I re-torqued it to 35Nm - a half turn!. Its better but not quite there so I'm waiting for a better tool so I can hold both sides properly and torque it all the way. Again its reasonable that assemblies settle and need a torque check after a couple of months.
Did yours settle at all?
pbassred after the install, i never went back to retighten. Everything is still smooth and quiet over 1k miles now.
Are you suspending your bike in the air by clamping the seat posy in a stand?!?!
did the new press fit bb work? are the creaks gone?
@puruy so with this modification you are getting rid of cracking noise?
bitumen83 it was more of a creaking and squeaking noise in my case. I chased the noise elsewhere before I decided to change my bb. I dismantled, re-greased, re-assembled and tighten all (seat post, stem ,handlebars, skewers, mech hangers and etc.)
Hello, I have a 2014 EVO, and the BB on mine has very tight bearings. They will hardly spin by hand, so I had them replaced, and then outside of the bike, they now spin freely, and the new ones have the same problem in the frame. The crank turns okay, but I can't help but think there is unnecessary resistance. It seems that the PF cups are too tight in the frame, and my hopes are that replacing them with metal cups like the one you used would help. Any experience with this? How do you like the Wheels MFG unit?
Hello Brian Davis, I love the wheels mfg. bb, although I added a few more grams to bike, this bb system solved a nagging noise problem for me. The tolerances on these frames are so tight that a slight manufacturing defect could affect the performance and life of the stock bbs. You might want to consider checking the surface where the bearings are in contact with the frame and see if there’s extra material such as paint, clear coat or residue that is affecting the tolerances around the bb frame. Installation alignment of the bearings is also critical and if the issue persist, a $60 usd wheels mfg system, in my opinion is worth it. To date I have put on about 3,000 miles on the bbs I’ve installed in this video and still runs smooth and quiet. I also use this bike on zwift (on line indoor trainer sessions). I hope this helps and good luck to you sir.
puruy thanks!
grease in bearings from factory is heavy will break in, but i remove grease and add ceramicspeed tt grease at 1/4 fill. also bb30 needs to be exactly straight any crookedness will cause binding, as well of lack of proper spacers
After watching this again, do you think this could have been done without a bearing press and just using the threads to tighten and pull the BB into the frame?
I don’t think so Brian Davis because the drive side part of this bb need to be inserted far enough to make contact with the non drive side. You probably can use other method to press it in, but I’m not sure if proper alignment can be achieved.
Thanks, did the repair this weekend, and it was a piece of cake. I was way more concerned than necessary. I stuck the metal parts in the freezer for a bit, and that allowed enough constriction on their part to allow them to be pressed in more easily. So far, much better! Thanks for the video.
Inside trader once said, Press Fit was Park Tools idea suckers.
Hello this system is better ONLY the bearings
Why replace it? I would prefer PF30. If the bearing goes bad, just pop those bearings out and replace new ones. Also the shell aluminum cups that you remove are compatible with Power meter. The threaded one won’t work with power meter.
the outside diameter of your pf30 is 42 or 46 please ? best regards
fabio 46mm the wheels mfg pf30 threaded abec 3 fits perfectly but I had to remove the stock pressfit cups before installing these bbs.
puruy i cant understand how it s possible to put a bottom bracket pf30 in a frameset cannondale which is built only for bb30. there is a diameter difference
fabio you can only replace a pressfit 30 bb into a bb30 and not the other way around. I don't think you can convert a bb30 frame into a pf30 unless unless you can remove the whole bb30 shell. I basically removed the pf30 cups and replaced it with a bb30 shell and bearings.
so the supersix was a model 2012 which was press fit30 then the supersix are only bb30 ?
Lots of confusion because of the sticker on the frame. The frame is indeed pF30 with a 46 mm hole. It is not a BB30 bottom bracket shell with a 42 mm hole, but just a bike that was sold with a crank having a 30 mm spindle (called BB30). Cannondale did make some bikes with a BB30 shell and these house the bearings directly, in a 42 mm hole, but it is not what is shown here.
What brand of BB you installed?
Mario Francisco Marfori I used Wheels Manufacturing brand bb.
Yeah, No. Snake oil. One major creaking issue was not addressed and that's installation alignment. If you're using a bolt and washers to press, garauntee noise and premature bearing fail. Get a decent tool. More cups and adaptors just means more interfaces and wag, especially if Delron is anywhere in there.
Eric Muschlitz the wheels threaded pf30 aligns off itself by threading into each other, which is part of why it works so well.
It look like it not smooth spinning!
Why no one hating on that bullshit press fit bb's? Ya'll need to wake the f up and stop buying frames with press fit bb's
pressfit BB is such a flawed design...
Stop using the hammer use the pressfit tool!
can i do this in caad12?
rolly jr. villanueva no you can’t. This only work with pressfit 30.
yes you can
Press Fit was not designed correctly that is why it creaks. The older steel square taper shaft design used for decades never had this issue. The BB30 does not have an actual steel housing inside the frame so that the outer bearing walls can't wiggle. This is why bearings can not be press fit unless they are pressed into a strong steel housing this is how it is done in manufacturing industry. I don't think anyone from the 20th century would of been this stupid to design this concept of bb30.
pardo(dot)net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-180.html They do break and they come in at at least six spindle lengths, making getting right length for your chain line a guessing game.
Has anybody 'felt' how smooth WHEELS MANUFACTURING BB'S re compared to CANE CREEK or even CHRIS KING? (don't chime in stupidly if you have not, stay quiet)
This music gave me a cancer
Compra a ferramenta correta, marreta, fica mau visto. Nada de profissional.
Eu não sou um mecânico profissional. Eu só recebi minha ajuda através do seu tubo. Eu queria fazer isso sozinho, mas não tinha todas as ferramentas
Get rid of that annoying music. I can’t even watch this.
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