I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe. Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it. So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO. Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike. I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels. Probably the trough axle that was dry. On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals. Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case. My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
Thanks mate , I took apart the bottom bracket using a crank puller and then the wrachet and cyclo cartridge bottom bracket tool I took everything out cleaned and put on a good amount of grease and put it back together , the halfords crank puller was too tight a fit so I bought one on ebay and it was fine , now its smooth and no creak so thanks again 👍
Really informative. I was hit with this plague after a near death experience where a driver almost ran me over even though I had the right of way. If it wasn't for me gripping my breaks and sliding I would've been in the hospital. Shortly after that stupid event I heard cracking noises whenever I would pedal. I commute to work and I was scared that the frame or something was cracked so I walked the rest of the way. I googled and TH-camd for solutions and your video helped me out the most.
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
11:34 - Please, don't encourage them! We have enough standards already! I honestly don't see what the advantage of all the pressfit systems over threaded external cups is anyway. The threaded external BB's were a massive improvement over the older cartridges (with the square taper axles and separate cranks). Beyond that, it seems like they're "innovating" just for the sake of marketing.
Some of it is so they can manufacturer to lower tolerances. Press fit allows a much wider variance so they don't have to scrap as many frames. Threaded aren't without their failings. But as they don't allow very much variance to the "correct" sizes, so you don't often see poorly manufactured frames make it to market. So everyone thinks it's a better standard when really it's more down to the quality control.... At least that's my understanding of it
@@johnystrange665 yup, I'm a fan of his work. I've also learned that bike manufacturers are bad enough at laying up carbon that I wouldn't trust them to implement a pressfit BB, and I'd rather they stick to threaded, even if there's some more play in it. And I know that if I ever buy a bike with a pressfit BB, I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to fix it. Since my lathe is still broken, I'm happy with my threaded one for now.
Very good demonstration, thank you. My bottom bracket slightly different but principal the same. Will have to see when I take it apart, Mine started clicking after only a few hundred miles.
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
DO NOT use bearings that you have knocked out, they have micro dents from being wacked no matter how even pressure you use, always replace bearings that you have knocked out!
I had it too on my bike with a bb 30 . I brought it too the bike shop and they put an aftermarket wheels manufacturing mfg bb 30 assembly but it still creacked . Then i fixed it myself with loctite 243 from work . Unscrewed the wheels bb 30 cleaned it with degreaser and put 243 loctite threadlocker problem solved . I put it only between the aluminium bottembracket shell and the wheels assembly . Because its made of 7075 aluminium not much chance of creak , i assume most standard bottombrackets that come with bikes are of a too weak aluminium , thus causing the outerrace being able to move in the frame . So if the cups are of a sufficient high quality alu alloy , it might be enough to just put loctite between the cup and the bottombracket itself . In this way you are sure the bearings and spindle come out easy. Loctite 243 is very strong but the other type might be even better .
Yes, I had that problem once, and now the bottom bracket problem. It is good to check that first because the creaking from the cassette sounds similar to a bottom bracket creaking problem and both tend to occur at regular intervals with the pedaling cadence.
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
Recently put the truvativ bb30 in my 2012 supersix and developed a bottom bracket creak 😭😭. I put back the old ngks. Back to normal for now. The noise was caused by internal bearing failure. It was notchy out the box. I would check for race smothness before condemning bb30 bearings. Be sure bearing go in smooth and flush with snap rings.
I once was told never use rubbing alcohol as many brands contain some amount of baby oil. This will leave behind a "film" . If you get denatured alcohol from a drug store ..your better off. I also use q-tip cotton swabs instead of a little paint brush for application.. no clean up and inexpensive.. good vid tho..
Interesting that there's no primer used for the retaining compound, and that it's being put on the bearing inner surface and crank axle. Have not seen that before.
I am not sure that blue Loctite will set up to permanently repair the worn aluminum B.B. shell. Mavic used to sell a replaceable B.B. on which you needed to cut an champ-her which the locking nuts would seat on, the cutting tool was supplied with the replacement set. This was typically used on threaded B.B.s when the tread had been stripped in the days of Steel (I am an old man) :) I just wonder if these or something similar is available today? I have never seen a Hambini B.B. but I feel sure his must be better than a Loctite fix. Perhaps a product such as Devcon would gave a better filler for the oval-ed shell or cup.
Wouldn't tapping out the bearings un-uniformly warp the cups a little? Rather than one of those tri-spoked flanged tools that puts more equal pressure and taps them out pretty straight?
I solved that annoying creaking sound with a set of earbuds and some good beat music that not only silenced the creaking noise but encouraged my cadence to improve and depending on the tune made me cycle harder.
Locktite is the worst thing to use. You'll have a hard time getting that off for repairs, or if you wanna upgrade. Heat softens metal, and cold hardens it. So everytime you ride your bike what ever the weather, this will happen. And if left untreat for more the two or three mouths you will get slight wear and tear. You need to maintain it with grease only. Using locktite is the worst. If you take your bike apart and see grease, then regrease it with fresh grease. Do'nt put other magical things on, coz you will make matters worse over time, and.may strugle to even get it off. But hey, i can't tell you what to do. Do what ever you wanna do.
What till the gear cable lugs pop off the side of the frame, lots of frames being returned back to bike shops, but orbea will replace for a new frame which is good, mine just happened to pop off while I was Australia, I’m on holiday from Ireland, but got a new frame waiting me back in Dublin. It’s a known problem with the orca frames.
Good luck if you ever need to remove the bottom bracket shell when using high strength loctite. You will probably need to heat it and that is not a good idea for carbon frames. I will choose a better safe than sorry medium or even better low strength retaining compound.
Problem is, the label on the Loctite 609 says "medium-strength", but the technical data sheet says "high-strenght" and use temperature of 250 deg C to release the bond. Ouch! No epoxy resin will survive that I am afraid.
Press fit BB's. The solution to a problem nobody had. Frame manufacturers foisted them upon us because it saved them a few bucks. They will go the way of Betamax videos and 8 track cassettes.
WARNING: DO **NOT** USE LOCTITE 609 ON CRANK SHAFT TO BEARING INTERFACE!! Excellent video up until the point of the crank spindle to bearing contact. Leave those clean and greased ONLY!! You do not want to isolate the movement in that plane! There is a lateral crank allowance that we want to take place. (very slight if shimmed properly but we do not want to lock that axis nonetheless). One more piece of advice..........if first attempt does not work, remove BB and lightly sand the 609'd surface and repeat the process. (Further correcting the fit in a built up environment that will eventually correct the press fit mismatch).
This exactly. I was watching the video and when I saw that I was like... "nooooo..." You need that axle to slide around inside the race. Not allowing to float will cause premature failure of the bearings as the lateral movement of the axle will grind the race against the bearings.
The shaft to inner race of bearing often is the creaking. I've loctited this union on both road and MTBs for years and never had bearings crash. Just a small amount needed tho,like 1 or two drops.
Great video as always. I'm planning to buy second hand an 2012 orbea orca. I believe is similar to the one you have. It is fairly in good condition with little mileage. Do you have any specific advice on the bike? Thanks
Bikes creak, rattle and vibrate with noises everywhere, not just the BB. Unless it is a safety issue, forget about it and just ride. I don't even hear my tinnitus.
Am intrigued about the use of loctite on the spindle… this is not recommended by most manufacturers… is there a specific reason? I use loctite 641 on my pressfit installs with activator. Interesting that Cannondale has always recommended this for BB30 and PF30 installs in their manuals so not sure why so many people use grease, as we all know, grease disappears after 6 months leaving gaps and allows movement of the cups…😎
Creaking is caused by movement. The gap between spindle and inner bearing race may allow movement. Fill the gap with loctite will restrict the movement.
And when this doesn't work, go watch a Hambini video and find out that you probably have a frame with shitty tolerances. Also don't forget to check your QRs are greased and if you are using lightweight QRs without a proper cam system, check them too. Saves hours of work.
I get like a tapping sound whenever I pedal, the Sound is periodic, it comes only when pedaling, in any gear. It sometimes goes away when I continuously ride my bike for an hour. The bike is a year old, I keep the chain and sprockets clean and lubricated. Any idea why the sound comes??
as I bike mechanic, there is a list for creaking components ; 1. saddle 2. stem 3. handlebar 4. seat-post 5. pedals 6. and bottom bracket Hope this helps
Great, informative video, as we have come to expect from Oz Cycle :-) Just wondering... I have an aluminium sleeve in my carbon bottom bracket shell but my bottom bracket is a sealed plastic BB30 unit. Is the Loctite going to be OK for plastic bottom bracket cups (or adapters as Shimano call them)?
@@stevenleffanue thanks for the reply... I am glad I asked as I was ready to go with the Loctite ☺ What kind of liquid rubber? Can you recommend a specific product? I have never even heard of it LOL
6:54 I don't know if I'd put that much Loctite on... I used some bearing retaining compound of theirs-I'm not quite sure if it was 609-and it held like hell. Trying to get the bearing out later I had to "gently" heat and beat to get the bearing out of the housing. I don't know you might have put exactly the right amount on but I'd like to know if you have any experience removing something that you've put in with Loctite 609 since I know I was shocked with how hard the process was when I used it. Thanks for the great video; cheers.
That’s why i like threaded bottom brackets! Press fit bottom brackets will NEVER be free of creeking,and there’s nothing more annoying than a noisy bike ! 🤙
I tried removing my crank. It's stuck there for eternity. Looks like rusted in so good I was beating it with a rubber hammer, nothing. Just heavily damaged my hammer. Mileage may wary. If it's seized, you may or may not be able to get the crank out.
Have you ever tried removing the cups/bearings after using the 906? Loctite s tech sheet says you need to apply 250 degrees of heat to be able to release parts bonded with 608... please please please get back to me. I’ve ordered the 609, but now have doubts...
The loctite is cracked and broken when removing. Use only a drop or two and spread it over the contacting surfaces. If you use too much,yes,it will require heating.
I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe.
Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it.
So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
Ha,yeh,in my rusty ol shed. Nice that you guys ride your bikes too. Thanx again Joe 😎
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens
But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
Out of interest, what make is your frame?
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
Same! I'm like "there's a noise! It's the BB." They're like "look, no BB noise, its fine."
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
Lg
My BB30 drove me to near madness🤪 Changed to a Praxis conversion and therapy sorted😁 Great Vid
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO.
Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@rcg9573 how to purchase BB hambini?
Sorry im new to a bike world
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
Great video!!!! Like the tools you make....thanks for the tips!!!
Oh man that must be such a nice feeling. Every time I try and fix my bike I gets worse or something else breaks. 😢
I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
@@ollieb9875 nice to know it's not just me.
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
Lol me too
wow....looking at various posts you have put up, I have never learned so much about bikes (see your ceramic bearing video) good job!
I founded my creaking sound coming from my shoe clips. Make sure all fasteners are tight.
Thanks for your videos. Learning a lot.
Seat springs creak too.
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike.
I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels.
Probably the trough axle that was dry.
On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals.
Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case.
My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
Thanks mate , I took apart the bottom bracket using a crank puller and then the wrachet and cyclo cartridge bottom bracket tool I took everything out cleaned and put on a good amount of grease and put it back together , the halfords crank puller was too tight a fit so I bought one on ebay and it was fine , now its smooth and no creak so thanks again 👍
Really informative. I was hit with this plague after a near death experience where a driver almost ran me over even though I had the right of way. If it wasn't for me gripping my breaks and sliding I would've been in the hospital. Shortly after that stupid event I heard cracking noises whenever I would pedal. I commute to work and I was scared that the frame or something was cracked so I walked the rest of the way. I googled and TH-camd for solutions and your video helped me out the most.
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.
this is the only video that actually showcases the noise too
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Once again your native birds in the background noise are very therapeutic....
+TheCrossroads09 Haha....sorry no kookaburras this time :)
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Funny ha ha 😂
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
Oh dear. Well at least you found the problem and may have saved yourself an accident if the tubing came apart whilst you were riding.
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
+Lance McGrew Yes thats certainly a potential creaking spot. Thanx Lance.
I spent ages going over my bottom bracket but couldn't stop the creaking. Changed my Shimano pedals and it stopped....top tip- try the pedals first
11:34 - Please, don't encourage them! We have enough standards already!
I honestly don't see what the advantage of all the pressfit systems over threaded external cups is anyway. The threaded external BB's were a massive improvement over the older cartridges (with the square taper axles and separate cranks). Beyond that, it seems like they're "innovating" just for the sake of marketing.
Some of it is so they can manufacturer to lower tolerances. Press fit allows a much wider variance so they don't have to scrap as many frames. Threaded aren't without their failings. But as they don't allow very much variance to the "correct" sizes, so you don't often see poorly manufactured frames make it to market. So everyone thinks it's a better standard when really it's more down to the quality control....
At least that's my understanding of it
Look at Hambini and he will explain all in great detail.
@@johnystrange665 yup, I'm a fan of his work. I've also learned that bike manufacturers are bad enough at laying up carbon that I wouldn't trust them to implement a pressfit BB, and I'd rather they stick to threaded, even if there's some more play in it.
And I know that if I ever buy a bike with a pressfit BB, I'm going to have to machine a sleeve to fix it. Since my lathe is still broken, I'm happy with my threaded one for now.
Very good demonstration, thank you. My bottom bracket slightly different but principal the same. Will have to see when I take it apart, Mine started clicking after only a few hundred miles.
Yes. Most manufacturers just press the BBs in dry.
Beautiful! Very satisfying little job and great results. Thank you 🙏🏼 😊
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
Fcuk it off. Not worth the stress.
DO NOT use bearings that you have knocked out, they have micro dents from being wacked no matter how even pressure you use, always replace bearings that you have knocked out!
Agree
You can’t tell me what to do.
@@markcavandish1295 🤣
Thanks nick. I would have never known that
I had it too on my bike with a bb 30 .
I brought it too the bike shop and they put an aftermarket wheels manufacturing mfg bb 30 assembly but it still creacked .
Then i fixed it myself with loctite 243 from work .
Unscrewed the wheels bb 30 cleaned it with degreaser and put 243 loctite threadlocker problem solved .
I put it only between the aluminium bottembracket shell and the wheels assembly .
Because its made of 7075 aluminium not much chance of creak , i assume most standard bottombrackets that come with bikes are of a too weak aluminium , thus causing the outerrace being able to move in the frame .
So if the cups are of a sufficient high quality alu alloy , it might be enough to just put loctite between the cup and the bottombracket itself .
In this way you are sure the bearings and spindle come out easy.
Loctite 243 is very strong but the other type might be even better .
Cassette lock ring not torqued can be another source of creaking.
Yes, I had that problem once, and now the bottom bracket problem. It is good to check that first because the creaking from the cassette sounds similar to a bottom bracket creaking problem and both tend to occur at regular intervals with the pedaling cadence.
hello, excellent the trick of the wooden cleat to remove the press-fit box from your bike
Amazing. I had know idea how to do this.
Thanks, great vid.
The cycling Industry is crazy, put loctite in a Botton Bracket? really? threathed BB is the best system in a bike... Best regards.
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
+ozesalsa Thanx for your experience...so Chinese ceramic bearings do work ok!
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
Recently put the truvativ bb30 in my 2012 supersix and developed a bottom bracket creak 😭😭. I put back the old ngks. Back to normal for now. The noise was caused by internal bearing failure. It was notchy out the box. I would check for race smothness before condemning bb30 bearings. Be sure bearing go in smooth and flush with snap rings.
This is not a cheap medium-sized paintbrush.
It's a SHCT - Special Housing Cleaning Tool!
thanks, shared with a few FB groups
I don't even have this bearing type, zoned out.
Informative video 👍
I once was told never use rubbing alcohol as many brands contain some amount of baby oil. This will leave behind a "film" . If you get denatured alcohol from a drug store ..your better off. I also use q-tip cotton swabs instead of a little paint brush for application.. no clean up and inexpensive.. good vid tho..
Thanx for the tips Mike,I didnt know that about rubbing alcohol.
Every time I've had a creak, it's been a loose crank arm.
Interesting that there's no primer used for the retaining compound, and that it's being put on the bearing inner surface and crank axle. Have not seen that before.
Did you re-grease those bearings? Repack with grease?
Reusing bearings you've knocked out is a pretty bad idea, except as an "I need to ride my bike until I can get new bearings" solution.
I am not sure that blue Loctite will set up to permanently repair the worn aluminum B.B. shell. Mavic used to sell a replaceable B.B. on which you needed to cut an champ-her which the locking nuts would seat on, the cutting tool was supplied with the replacement set. This was typically used on threaded B.B.s when the tread had been stripped in the days of Steel (I am an old man) :) I just wonder if these or something similar is available today? I have never seen a Hambini B.B. but I feel sure his must be better than a Loctite fix. Perhaps a product such as Devcon would gave a better filler for the oval-ed shell or cup.
Mate you are a legend.
Wouldn't tapping out the bearings un-uniformly warp the cups a little? Rather than one of those tri-spoked flanged tools that puts more equal pressure and taps them out pretty straight?
Brilliant. Thanks for this.
my example - just lube your chain first - even if you think it's clean and lubed "week ago"
My creak turned out to be the spd cleats on my shoes, after changing bottom bracket, new cranks, new seat post.
Retro Dude, Old man on his bikes ouch
Classic
I solved that annoying creaking sound with a set of earbuds and some good beat music that not only silenced the creaking noise but encouraged my cadence to improve and depending on the tune made me cycle harder.
Haha
Locktite is the worst thing to use. You'll have a hard time getting that off for repairs, or if you wanna upgrade. Heat softens metal, and cold hardens it. So everytime you ride your bike what ever the weather, this will happen. And if left untreat for more the two or three mouths you will get slight wear and tear. You need to maintain it with grease only. Using locktite is the worst. If you take your bike apart and see grease, then regrease it with fresh grease. Do'nt put other magical things on, coz you will make matters worse over time, and.may strugle to even get it off. But hey, i can't tell you what to do. Do what ever you wanna do.
Thought the same thing. Better use a grease that's durable against water and the creak will disappear also. And maintain it 2 times a year or more.
hmmm ive never seen loctite used on bbs before
What till the gear cable lugs pop off the side of the frame, lots of frames being returned back to bike shops, but orbea will replace for a new frame which is good, mine just happened to pop off while I was Australia, I’m on holiday from Ireland, but got a new frame waiting me back in Dublin. It’s a known problem with the orca frames.
What year Orbeas??
I had creeking noise coming from pressfit bb. Only what worked out is press it out and press back in.
You didn't mention to give the Loctite 609 a good shake before using.
You didn't mention how much of an excellent job he did with the video either.
how did you rig that press tool ? what were the materials you used ? would be great if you can share the details
Looks like an axle with two nuts on either end with some tools in the middle.
Good luck if you ever need to remove the bottom bracket shell when using high strength loctite. You will probably need to heat it and that is not a good idea for carbon frames.
I will choose a better safe than sorry medium or even better low strength retaining compound.
Problem is, the label on the Loctite 609 says "medium-strength", but the technical data sheet says "high-strenght" and use temperature of 250 deg C to release the bond. Ouch! No epoxy resin will survive that I am afraid.
No word here on regreasing the bearings before assembly - old grease cleaned but new not applied... not needed?
If the bearing fits well add a smear of grease. If the bearing is a slightly loose fit use loctite.
i love the work bench
Good tip.
Oh boy, someone has got a seriously difficult job to do next time they want that crank out.
NO! If you hear it from the BB, then it is the BB. Not the stem, spoke, saddle, seatpost or shit. It is the BB.
How the hell do you get the bearings and cups out if you locktite them in?
Only 1 drop of retaining compount required per bearing...they come out still
hi, great video.
Just a question.
Why don’t you apply loctite 641 instead?
I read its useful for pieces that you need to remove later.
Yes, loctite641 would work well too
Great video
Press fit BB's. The solution to a problem nobody had. Frame manufacturers foisted them upon us because it saved them a few bucks. They will go the way of Betamax videos and 8 track cassettes.
WARNING: DO **NOT** USE LOCTITE 609 ON CRANK SHAFT TO BEARING INTERFACE!! Excellent video up until the point of the crank spindle to bearing contact. Leave those clean and greased ONLY!! You do not want to isolate the movement in that plane! There is a lateral crank allowance that we want to take place. (very slight if shimmed properly but we do not want to lock that axis nonetheless). One more piece of advice..........if first attempt does not work, remove BB and lightly sand the 609'd surface and repeat the process. (Further correcting the fit in a built up environment that will eventually correct the press fit mismatch).
This exactly. I was watching the video and when I saw that I was like... "nooooo..." You need that axle to slide around inside the race. Not allowing to float will cause premature failure of the bearings as the lateral movement of the axle will grind the race against the bearings.
The shaft to inner race of bearing often is the creaking. I've loctited this union on both road and MTBs for years and never had bearings crash. Just a small amount needed tho,like 1 or two drops.
Hello Steve, how this technique holds nowadays?
Still valid but not for BSA threaded
Is that too much trouble for removing? after using loctite. @@stevenleffanue
Great video as always.
I'm planning to buy second hand an 2012 orbea orca. I believe is similar to the one you have. It is fairly in good condition with little mileage. Do you have any specific advice on the bike? Thanks
@Hambini would be horrified ......
I think most mechanics would be horrified
Another Great video, thanks! What is the song that is used at the start of your videos?
+Sub Marine Intro to tour de france from the 90s one year....its royalty free now.
oz cycle that's way it sounded super familiar!
Bikes creak, rattle and vibrate with noises everywhere, not just the BB. Unless it is a safety issue, forget about it and just ride. I don't even hear my tinnitus.
Am intrigued about the use of loctite on the spindle… this is not recommended by most manufacturers… is there a specific reason?
I use loctite 641 on my pressfit installs with activator.
Interesting that Cannondale has always recommended this for BB30 and PF30 installs in their manuals so not sure why so many people use grease, as we all know, grease disappears after 6 months leaving gaps and allows movement of the cups…😎
Creaking is caused by movement. The gap between spindle and inner bearing race may allow movement. Fill the gap with loctite will restrict the movement.
What if you hear that same creaking sound, but you’re in the saddle? I need serious help
Check seat pole in frame and 3 saddle rails intersections under seat
@@stevenleffanue I’ll be sure to check that out. Hopefully that’s the problem. Thank you very much!
And when this doesn't work, go watch a Hambini video and find out that you probably have a frame with shitty tolerances. Also don't forget to check your QRs are greased and if you are using lightweight QRs without a proper cam system, check them too. Saves hours of work.
Nice video
Hambini or BBInfinite one piece BB
Almost 3 years now, was wondering if the creaking has come back
No creaks its good. Also treated MTB BB and thats fine too
Mine is doing the opposite, creaks when sat, stops when standing. The further I get along a ride the worse it gets. Very very frustrating.
Seat post to frame interface or seat rails on clamp is creaking
Do you bike services ? if so where in Australia are you located ? cheers
No. Sorry Hurt , I'm all tied up with local riders work.
Can this problem being solved by buying new bearings and bb??
Depends what is causing the creak.
I get like a tapping sound whenever I pedal, the Sound is periodic, it comes only when pedaling, in any gear. It sometimes goes away when I continuously ride my bike for an hour. The bike is a year old, I keep the chain and sprockets clean and lubricated. Any idea why the sound comes??
Chech seat pole in frame and seat rails
oz cycle thanks will do that
You missed seatpost. I had a seatpost start creaking. Took forever to find it.
as I bike mechanic, there is a list for creaking components ;
1. saddle
2. stem
3. handlebar
4. seat-post
5. pedals
6. and bottom bracket
Hope this helps
Nice job mate!!!!
Truly excellent video, thank you! Will that BB tool work for mountain bike press fit bottom bracket as well? Shimano Press Fit 92
Yes it will press the Shimano 92 Greg.
I have a tange sealed bottom bracket in both of my bikes, no issues what so ever £10 each
Great, informative video, as we have come to expect from Oz Cycle :-) Just wondering... I have an aluminium sleeve in my carbon bottom bracket shell but my bottom bracket is a sealed plastic BB30 unit. Is the Loctite going to be OK for plastic bottom bracket cups (or adapters as Shimano call them)?
No. Grease for threaded and a liquid rubber for press fit.
@@stevenleffanue thanks for the reply... I am glad I asked as I was ready to go with the Loctite ☺ What kind of liquid rubber? Can you recommend a specific product? I have never even heard of it LOL
OZ, what do you think about BBInfinte and Hambini one piece BB to fix the creak and make it stiffer?
Yep,sure,if you can afford them. However even the best bb unit can still creak if the bb shell is out of round.
Would applying grease to all these areas do the same thing???
6:54 I don't know if I'd put that much Loctite on... I used some bearing retaining compound of theirs-I'm not quite sure if it was 609-and it held like hell. Trying to get the bearing out later I had to "gently" heat and beat to get the bearing out of the housing. I don't know you might have put exactly the right amount on but I'd like to know if you have any experience removing something that you've put in with Loctite 609 since I know I was shocked with how hard the process was when I used it. Thanks for the great video; cheers.
Only use a drop or 2 each side
@@stevenleffanue That's what you've found?
Did you use to be a teacher? You videos and how you communicate, is very good
No. Just like helping people with their bikes 🚲😃
Did you just bond the cups to the BB and the bearings?
Great vid. Thanks mate
Aluminum 🤔
Design of bearing press?
Great tutorial using Loctite.
That’s why i like threaded bottom brackets!
Press fit bottom brackets will NEVER be free of creeking,and there’s nothing more
annoying than a noisy bike ! 🤙
Would you still try grease before trying locktite or move straight to locktite?
Grease should work....Loctite definitely works
for press fit BB, grease is worst than completely clean dry fit
Really nice video :)
I tried removing my crank. It's stuck there for eternity. Looks like rusted in so good I was beating it with a rubber hammer, nothing. Just heavily damaged my hammer.
Mileage may wary. If it's seized, you may or may not be able to get the crank out.
You need a crank remover
That Cofidis jersey! Isn't it from the time Stuart O'Grady rode for that team? 😉
Good video ...Thanks mate
Have you ever tried removing the cups/bearings after using the 906? Loctite s tech sheet says you need to apply 250 degrees of heat to be able to release parts bonded with 608... please please please get back to me. I’ve ordered the 609, but now have doubts...
The loctite is cracked and broken when removing. Use only a drop or two and spread it over the contacting surfaces. If you use too much,yes,it will require heating.