HOW TO: Square Taper to Hollowtech II Conversion // Bottom Bracket & Crankset
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
- How to convert from Square Taper to Hollowtech II bottom bracket and crankset.
The 2021 Specialized Rockhopper budget upgrade series continues with modernizing the bottom bracket and crankset from the slightly outdated square taper system to the more contemporary Hollowtech II external bearing system.
Affiliate links (helps me out)
Crank Puller (Bike Hand): amzn.to/3bum9SH
Crank Puller (Park Tool): amzn.to/2SXeLch
Square Taper BB Tool (Bike Hand): amzn.to/2QkQ6NE
Crank Cap Tool: amzn.to/3tSOict
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This is exactly the video I was looking for. Being out of the cycling game for around 10 years I forgot everything about how to replace a BB and crankset. Thanks for uploading this detailed video!
Really great video - informative, clear and well edited. Thanks!
Dude! This is exactly what I want to do to my son's bike. I wasn't sure if it was possible to convert square taper to Hollowtech, until now.
Thanks!
Awesome video, to the point and very informative. Cheers!!
This was great. Really helpful for me!
Great job , thanks for that and the links . Very logical and professional.
Excellent, everything I needed in one shortish Video.
You just helped me out big time thank you! I did it.
Sweet vid bud. Thanks for all the info!
Very clear and informative video of the whole process to make this conversion. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for this informative video. I am in the mist of upgrading my 20 yo Specialized Hardrock to Hollowtech and from 7 speed to 9 speed.
Very well done! Thanks!
This was easy to follow 👍
Easy to understand and informative video, thanks
Great simple video, thanks
Many thanks, great video, learning here.
Great Upgrade 🤘🏼
Thx Mike
Very useful video. Efficient presentation.
All good I found exactly what I need to swap my rockhopper's crank. FWIW I prefer using anti-seize on the non moving parts, not grease as per your recommendation where the inner crank arm splines meshes together with the splined spindle ends.
Good video
Like it! That was great. That new Park crank / BB tool just about doubles the buy-in cost I think. I hope there's a good Vietnam special.
Great video 👍
Great name!
This is the best upgrade you can make to a Rockhopper. Changing to a 32t chainring as spinning out with just a 30t chainring. You make it look so easy to do in the video so I just might have a go now myself thank-you 😁
Hi planning on doing this with 30t chainring as I read it’ll be easier on the climb. When do you spin out?
Only spin out if riding flat roads only. And there is not a noticeable enough difference between a 30t and 32t chainring
Thanks!
Great upgrade! I went from the powerspline to sram dub with GX crank 5mm shorter arms oh wow! huge difference!
Nice! Now that’s a solid upgrade
Powerspline is another bottom bracket spindle standard (it’s not square taper)
@CK powerspline is a cartridge style bottom bracket made by Sram/Truvativ while Shimano made the Octalink bottom bracket which is a bit stiffer and stronger then square taper but heavy and weaker then a BSA style. I went with 170mm GX cranks on both bikes I think 170mm are good for trail riding I would say 165mm more jummping/gravity/freeride/enduro/downhill riding but I dont think 175mm cranks should ever be on a mountain bike unless maybe its an XC race bike otherwise forget it!
Nice clear video on what might appear to be quite a daunting job. I think you flagged up the biggest thing to remember really well, but just to emphasize... that nice solid socket that you buy just to get the old style bottom bracket out can easily chew up the nylon locking ring on the drive side if you forget that it comes out clockwise. I made a real mess of mine first go!
Haha yes we’ve all been there
Great. Content! I understood a lot! I would like to do this conversion on my cinelli single speed, but I’m not sure because of the chain line.
Cool bike! You can certainly preserve the chainline by using chainring spacers, or the BB spacers, but may not want to mess with it if it's original stuff.
the first upgrade I ever made for my bike was a hollow tech crankset. the square tapered design for my gt avalanche was way too flimsy and weak for my riding needs. upgrading the crankset is a super underrated choice but a very important one
Right on!
How square bottom bracket could be flimsier than bb3! Square taper is currently the most reliable type there is.
@@strangelylookingperson hollowtech is much more is to maintenance
How has your upgrade held up? I’ve had 2 different Avalanches. And no issues with square taper. However the second one was poorly assembled. And hasn’t held up very long. So I’m in the market for a replacement and considering changing the BB type.
@@axkhn4921 Currently running the 10 speed Shimano Zee BB and single 36t chainring. derailler was changed to Deore M5100 because it works incredibly well. clutch mechanism obviously. but as for the hollowtech BB standard. i also owned 2 different avalanches. the first one was stolen and the second one ive still running after 4 years of constant usage. both came stock with the worst square taped cranksets ive ever used. every single one of the them that came stock on my bike failed within a 1 month period. the zee hollowtech bb in contrast has held up absolutely flawlessly. im a heavier rider at about 200lbs, but i clean and regrease the bearings every year and this particalur compontent has held up flawlessly without issues. only complaint is that the chainring that came with the crankset isnt a narrow wide. so there are chain retention issues. it runs a standard 104bcd chainring, and when i replaced it was a narrow wide ring. chain hasnt dropped since.
I have a hollowtech BB but a slightly different style of 2 piece crank. I have some side-to-side play. Do you know anything about adding spacers onto the spindle? I'm not sure where to get something like that and how universal they are. Thank you. Excellent video..
My 2022 rockhopper is making creaking noises like crazy every rotation so I guess I might need one of these, only written it in rain twice and wash it off afterwards with light water however.
Now to figure out the right replacement size for my fixie and get the old cross threaded one out, fml. At least I have until spring... Marketplace, amirite?? Lol, thanks for the video.
How did you adjust your chain to the appropriate setup to go with your 1x8 conversion?
It's actually better if you tighten it up first and then try loosening it up because some for reason it works. My step father who was an Truck mechanic and auto mechanic for most of his life taught me that. Probably because if it's torqued it's not at it's full tightened capacity or potential and it's easier to tighten it some more first then it is to loosen it up first and then go from there.
Hi ive got the rockhopper 2021 elite series and am also thinking of converting over to hollowtech as the drive train that comes as standard is a fixed to pedal 30 tooth chain ring so I want to upgrade to a 32 tooth and better crankset is this the same to do for mine as you have ???
Is it possible to replace a 3x7 ⬜ to 3x7 hallow ?
So - These cartridge type bottom brackets seemed to work fine for many years. It kind of look like the external bearings may get more exposure to moisture. Can't you just change the chain ring? Seems like very little advantage to swap.
4:45 I never had to remove a pinch bolt - just flip the hook out of the way 2mm, and the crank will slide on with both bolts in place.
Right usually that’s the case. I think it was just getting caught on this one so I took it out
How do I determine what other bottom brackets are compatible? I just want a little bit of a better one
5:29 I hope you gave the first bolt a torque down again.
Is the chainring welded to the crank? I have a 1x10, is it possible to have 11-50t on a 1x10 and only change the cassette?
Hello, could you tell me the difference between the sm-bb52 and bb-mt501 greetings.
The chainline spec for the Rockhopper is 48.8mm but the Deore cranks are set for a 52mm chainline. How did you compensate for the difference?
I am only seeing the m5100 crank in a 2X configuration, do you happen to have a link to the one you used here? great series btw.
It was an eBay buy, pretty sure it was legitimate parts. Not sure if this link will work www.ebay.com/itm/New-Shimano-Deore-FC-M5100-1-Crankset-1x10-11-speed-30T-32T-170mm-175MM-BB52-/124046113156?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
I like a 12 speed cassette when im out of shape HAHA!
what if only 68 only..do i need spacer?
How can i find out Wich size I need vor the hollow tech
I ruined the teeth on my bb. How do i get it out ?
What size rims on the bike
BBS are so mysterious
Hahaha
hi! very detailed video, but i have a concern on the spacers for the bottom bracket do I really need to follow the exact amount of spacers for a specific measurement of the bottom bracket shell or can i just put spacers just enough that the crank spindle isn't too long and short for the bottom bracket
I believe following the recommendation for spacers based on bb configuration is intended to preserve chain line. If you have an unconventional crank, then probably best to contact the mnfr
Bike "standards" = buying 4-6 specialized tools for conversion. Great video btw, perfect tutorial for something like the Poseidon bikes.
3:57 Do you have a link for the specific BB socket tool, if one wanted to tighten to specific torque spec?
The tool you're looking for is the 'Park Tool BBT-9'
Awesome vids man!!! Question where did you buy the actual crank itself. I was seeing one that says 175mm is that correct? You may have mentioned it and I missed it.
Shimano stuff from ebay. It's new stock, but I'm guessing direct from factory, so it takes longer to ship.
@@TheBikeSauce thank you! I have the same bike as the one in the video. So I'm gonna order everything and have at it.
That’s the spirit!
Good video, but after saying there was no need to over tighten the bearing pre-load, weren't you just a little heavy handed? The crank didn't seem spin particularly freely.
Brand new bearings packed with grease tend to require a bit of use at first. If a bearing spins forever when first installed, it's probably under-lubricated.
9 speeds is more than enough. I typically shift 2 or 3 gears at a time on my 11 speed. Honestly it would be more convenient for me to have fewer gears with the same range.
When doing this conversion from square taper to hallowtech and choosing a crank set, how do you determine the spindle length of the crank set? I see options of 136mm and 143mm and I'm not sure which to get.
That might be dependent on whether or not your bike frame is "boost" or standard BB shell width. Measure your frame's width to find out or contact the manufacturer
Do you need to remove the non-drive side of square taper bottom bracket first or can you remove the drive side first?
Either one
Hello, I want to change from sx to gx and I have a question about the dub axis, can a BSA work for me? Rockhopper expert
Don't upgrade from SX to GX
Do you have a link to the bb you purchased?
I got it as a set with cranks off eBay. It’s a widely available part. Try a XT BB MT800 for like $25. Will be an upgrade over the one used here
Is the spindle or length 170mm or 175mm? I was looking to get the same front crank but not sure which one will fit. I have a 2020 Specialized Rockhopper
crank length? spindles wouldn't be that long
Hi i just bought a rockhopper sport,just wanna ask if is possible to use the slx 7000 1x11s 32T crankset with the deore m5100 11-51t cassette i just wanna upgrade my stock drivetrain and save little of weight without spend a lot of money…
That would be a great upgrade. You need to swap to an external bb if yours has square taper. And get the derailleur in addition to the cassette. .. and an 11sp chain. Ha
Would you say it’s worth it to go for decently pricey upgrades for this bike or to just save and wait to buy another?
Tough call. Normally I’d say go for it if your components can transfer to a nicer frame down the line. In this case, there are some components that wouldn’t transfer to a higher end frame. Wheels drivetrain (in some cases), and fork for instance. Tires and dropper probably fine to go higher end as they’d more easily transfer
What does this do?
Go from a sealed bearing to external bearings that you will have to replace more often for no reason at all
So I have the Rockhopper elite would not mind doing this to my bike. But would my factory square taper single drive set up fit a rockhopper sport? And if so would it be a good idea or would her factory 9 gear not be a good match?
Not sure what you're asking. The bb shell is the same for both models, so you can convert to hollowtech. Although, I don't think you have a factory 9 speed rear mech?
your same as me bud you just want to upgrade the bb and crankset you have no need to mess with rear mech as its already a 10 speed.
🎉
Read about chainlines. I wonder if you knew about this as I am still confused after reading a lot about it.
I am planning to convert to a 1x11. I bought a crankset with 104bcd because I wanted to use RaceFace NW chainring. Now, I will use the same BB, the square tapered. Just replace the cranks. Will that work??? And about the chainline? Do I need any tweaks or spacers for the chainring or cranks??? Sorry, newbie here. Thanks
Good question. Front chain line is defined as the distance from the bike centerline to the center of the teeth on the chain ring (for a 1x system). The rear chain line is the distance from the bike centerline to the middle cog on the cassette (for odd-numbered cassette). For proper drivetrain alignment the front and rear chain line should be the same value. The bcd doesn’t play a role in the chain line
@@TheBikeSauce got that. Thanks.
But if i'm using a square tapered, will I be able to adjust it to align with the middle cog(odd cog) or should I adjust from the cog with spacers?
If you need to, you can use chainring spacers to dial in the chain line
Does this Deore crankset require you to run a HG-X10 chain? Or is it compatible with other HG chains?
Chainrings are extremely forgiving when it comes to chain compatibility. Cassettes are a different story entirely, but most chainrings can accommodate Shimano, SRAM, KMC branded chains of plus or minus one speed that's advertised
@@tubamonkey1 Thanks for this precise information!
So after completing this and the box 2 drivetrain combo would you say the entire setup works well together and has held up well for you guys? I just ordered the same crank set plus an mt501 bottom bracket which I understand is an alternate option for the bb52 you used and I want to make sure it’s proven before I bite the bullet and get the whole box two prime 9 drivetrain to go with it. Please give me a thumbs up or thumbs down for your experience with everything since installed.
It held up fine until we sold the bike a few months back. However, i do have to give Microshift the nod for better overall budget drivetrain
@@TheBikeSauceThe bike came with Microshift. lol. Are you saying you feel like you should have just left it all stock or are you saying the upgrades were worth the money you paid to upgrade for her?
Basically what I’m really hoping to know is do you think the scratch im gonna spend on the crankset, bb, and level two prime 9 drivetrain plus tools to do the job will be worth it for my wife’s new bike? I don’t think she’s ever gonna go full suspension so I just wanna get this hardtail modernized to a point where she can use it and grow her skills with it on trails for years to come. Sorry to bug ya with all the questions but you’re the only guy I know of who’s done all the upgrades I’m hoping to do for her. Please let me know.
Hi I have the same bike although mine is a 2015 but it had the 3x8 gear set hydraulic brakes, same bike you started with. It was recently recovered after being stolen and now has no crank, bottom bracket, cassette and I would like to make mine 1x9 as you did but I'm completely illiterate on bike parts. Would you perhaps give me a detailed list of what I need I would greatly appreciate it. My local shop wanted $400plus for what I've read online would be marginal products at best. Help please
P. S. I forgot to mention that I already purchased a complete Park Tool set of tools so I have all the tools just don't know exactly what to purchase. I don't mean to be an idiot and I'm not I'm just a beginner and no offense but bike shops both online and brick stores are not the most friendly or helpful
Can you put a 3 piece crank and spindle instead of that 2piece ?
You gonna be riding bmx?
@@TheBikeSauce minimum.
Did you reuse the factory rear gears?
Next video will detail the upgrade to Box Components Prime 9 drivetrain.
@@TheBikeSauce if i wanted, could i only upgrade the front crankset to the one you used and the leave the factory rear cassette and derailleur?
You can, but the resulting 1x8 drivetrain might limit your ability to climb steep hills
Hey Bike Sauce, I've been following this series and I have been doing some upgrading of my own Rockhopper 29er. I just ordered the Box Three 9 speed conversion. I found your link for the bb/crank parts you ordered below in the comments, but I was hoping to be able to get the RaceFace Aeffect R crankset, using the same BB you ordered. Do you think this will work? Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Right on! You can use that crank, sure. BB dimensions are the same for hollowtech II and RF EXI, and spindle dimensions are the same. There's a raceface EXI specific BB if you wanted it to match the cranks. No issues running this with the Box 1x as far as I can tell. Just be sure to set up the BB and crank / chainring for the proper chainline
@@TheBikeSauce.
Did you use spacers in the left side?
Not for this setup per shimano
@@TheBikeSauce ok I understand it happens that I have a 2x10 bi-chain transmission but I don't know how many spacers I should place on each side because the axle is loose
Hi good day bike sauce....I have a rock hopper 29 2020...I would like to upgrade the 2x 36t chain ring to something bigger... just for more speed...any suggestions?
The stock crankset is riveted (I believe), so you won’t be able to change the chainrings unless you get a new crankset. Also, bigger chainrings won’t make you faster unless you can sustain the required power to turn them - the stock range is pretty large if I’m not mistake.
@@TheBikeSauce the thing is I do a little road as well... so would a bigger chain ring set help?
When you are on the big chainring on the front and the smallest cog at the rear, can you spin that gear so fast on the road that you cannot keep up with the fast cadence? And if so, how often does that happen? If the answer is no, or yes but very rarely, then you don't need a bigger front chainring.
Curious - How is this holding up now after a year on the bike? I'm on the fence about doing this with my Rockhopper 29 because there's been some chatter about external bearings not lasting that long compared to square tapered. Could be just a lack of maintenance...
I’ve got both external bb and square taper bikes, and they’re all pretty good these days. I suppose if you’re really hard on your stuff, you might have some anecdotal evidence that one is ‘better’ than another
The whole bike is still going strong byw
@@TheBikeSauce Thanks! That was my suspicion as well so glad to confirm. I ended up snagging the Hollowtech ii setup you have for my Rockhopper and stuck with the square taper for the bikepacking/gravel/touring bikes just because they'll see more miles under relatively steady conditions. The price points are getting really close these days ($51 for Deore and $18 for BB) and since you can technically service the external bearings by removing the seals, I bet a lot of riders are just grinding theirs to a pulp without checking and maintaining. To your point, the same could be said about square taper. However, I think the general stiffness and support of external bearings under load really seem to make them worth any extra work.
i think i am going to change my 26" wheel to 27.5 . . . as a gift to myself on my birthday. . . my bike is already a single speed by the way
needed like 5 special tools
Not really convinced on the weight/stiffness improvement. My bottom bracket and cranks total 730grams without a chainring.
The so called upgrade doesn't really save any weight and only tiny gains on stiffness
...also, this is a super sexy upgrade! Have you compared (a-b) the deflection of a square taper to a hollow tech design? What an improvement! (Not even thinking about the weight savings ;)
Missed opportunity to do some bike science.. great idea to quantify the flex
@@TheBikeSauce Flex brings energy back into the system upon return, very hard to do a solid quantification of losses, for sure.
But the mere sensation of stepping on the crank and NOT feeling that flex of the square axle, is lovely! Compare if you get a chance ;-)
I can certainly feel the difference. Would be nice to quantify too. Bike culture in general has too many opinions and not enough data 😀
@@TheBikeSauce Right on. And if data is presented, it is mostly "marketing" data...
Wait this is an option?!?!? I always preferred the xtr hollow tech bb it lasts a bit longer looks better and is like 10 bucks more
Yes… I’ve just bought a new cheap… jazzy looking mountain bike ( Cross ) from Argos store; But guess what? it comes with that older style of bottom bracket ( 68mm ) Exactly the one you have just showed in your video.
The million dollar question is… why are they still producing this type of bracket in this day & age? It doesn’t cost that much.
All i need to do now is….. and that’s try and, upgrade to this newer type. Hopefully, Amazon will have all the bits i need.
Incidentally this mountain bike that I’ve just bought; also has that dreaded 1” headset and threaded fork. Not much i can do about that unfortunately. Except replacing the stem with an adapter quill ect. Why are they still producing the 1” When all other companies are producing 1 1/8 ?
This particular company must be well out of date… to supply some of their bikes with much older components?
Sunday evening 19th June 2022. U.K. 🇬🇧 Southampton
Benefits of Hollowtech compared to Square Taper ??
Lighter, stiffer. **Cue the retro grouches **
If you buy the next higher spec versions of the 2021 Rockhopper (Comp, Elite) with their 1X systems... you're going to have to replace the cranks at some point anyway. The Comp and the Elite both use a pressed-on front sprocket - you can't just replace the sprocket when it wears out. This is pretty lame. Want a 32 tooth sprocket instead of a 30? Need a whole new crankset.
The highest spec Rockhopper (Expert) has a SRAM Powerspline BB and SX Eagle crankset, much better for maintenance and adjustability.
could you drill it out?
will deore 30T crank work with the box prime 9 chain?
Helo, my bb creak so much when I pedalling hard and off saddle. So I think I want to change my bearings bcause yeah its more cheaper than changing a new bb. I think it's the bearing make the creak sound. I want to know what is the measurement for the bearings of sram dub bsa bb? If you know the code or the measurement for the bearings?
The bottom bracket is probably bad. Change it with a shimano bottom bracket. Check the specialized website or call them for the size. It could also say on the website.
half of my money will go towards just the tools omg
Im new subscriber
IF IT AIN'T BROKE WHY FIX IT?!!
The square taper cranks that come stock usually only last maybe 6 months. Really, they shouldn’t ever be used on a mountain bike.
The square taper, both cranks and axles are basically disposable in my case - after some riding done any harder than just sitting and calmly pedaling your way to the store, the gap between the square axle and hole in the left crank can become greater with time, since left crank bolt uses the same thread as the right one, it loosens up with time (even with the thread locker, i've tried that), not even mentioning the thin axle that, sometimes feels is made of plasticine, can bend and twist after a rough landing or simply pedaling too hard. Finally got my hollowtech cranks with the BB today, gonna install them tomorrow and see how they last
I did have a bike with loose bearings axil, and I did ask a bike shop to change it to a better system, the idiot tech said it was not possible...I should have known better, but I never worked on renewal of a bike...
Neither going from 2x to 1x nor going from square taper to HollowTech is an upgrade; they are just changes. The title says "conversion," but the host refers to an "upgrade" series, so there you go. My prediction: In a few years, everybody will be ditching their pie-plate cassettes and going back to 2x and even 3x systems when they realize that drive train flexibility matters more than saving a pound.
Before you "upgrade" to hollowtech II, a quick search reveals the huge design flaw in some of the models, thus your upgrade is actually worse than a downgrade.
Pretty blanket statement. There are many benefits to the simplified design
@@TheBikeSauce I see no reason to dispute your opinion you think it a blanket statement.
There are numerous vids showing some model hollowtech cranks failing - the two piece crank comes apart.
Regardless of benefits, the crankset is rendered useless and a ripoff if there's a design flaw of the ams coming apart.
And I repeat, as expressed by others, not all hollowtechs do this.
I'm just completely in shock that Spesh would sell a bike with square taper BB, like wtf.