This would be a great video if you told us step by step what you were doing, what size sockets were used, and what the final torque specs are to complete the job.
I’ve had no issues with them so far. If you let the car sit for awhile they do get surface rust, but nothing major. Just be careful with the coating on the rotor hat when you clean them off before installing. If you can leave the coating intact on the hat it won’t rust. They are a little heavy but to be fair it’s a lot of metal. So unless you want to drop the coin on two piece rotors it’s just what it is. The pads and rotors aren’t any noisier than you’d expect for an aggressive street/track pad. A little squeak when they’re cold first few stops and then after that nothing. I don’t notice it unless the windows are down. Brake dust has been no worse than anything else I’ve run. Hope that gives you a little bit of insight.
As long as you don’t open the bleed valves you won’t have to do a brake bleed. Just slowly press the pistons back in so with a caliper spreader using the old pads to push against.
These are carbon ceramic pads so they are still a more aggressive street pad, but should be plenty. Unlike road racing drifting is short sprints, and not nearly as demanding on the brakes.
@@balakays550Sometimes that's the way she goes. Glad you were able to get them off, and hopefully the lowering springs give you the stance you're looking for.
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This would be a great video if you told us step by step what you were doing, what size sockets were used, and what the final torque specs are to complete the job.
I’ll keep that in mind for the next one! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
nice video. Seriously....how good are these rotors? As far as rust and quality for the price.
I’ve had no issues with them so far. If you let the car sit for awhile they do get surface rust, but nothing major. Just be careful with the coating on the rotor hat when you clean them off before installing. If you can leave the coating intact on the hat it won’t rust. They are a little heavy but to be fair it’s a lot of metal. So unless you want to drop the coin on two piece rotors it’s just what it is. The pads and rotors aren’t any noisier than you’d expect for an aggressive street/track pad. A little squeak when they’re cold first few stops and then after that nothing. I don’t notice it unless the windows are down. Brake dust has been no worse than anything else I’ve run. Hope that gives you a little bit of insight.
Oh baby! Them big boy breaks!
UUUUUggee!
Did you have to do a brake bleed after this?
As long as you don’t open the bleed valves you won’t have to do a brake bleed. Just slowly press the pistons back in so with a caliper spreader using the old pads to push against.
Stock replacement pads going to be ok for drifty boy action?
These are carbon ceramic pads so they are still a more aggressive street pad, but should be plenty. Unlike road racing drifting is short sprints, and not nearly as demanding on the brakes.
What are the brake part number please?
All the parts lists are in the description.
I need me some brembos for the subi!
Yeah ya do. Gotta find some off an STI and rob em’! Lol
my rotors are stuck as shit
I assume by now you’ve gotten them off, but penetrating oil, heat and a hammer are your friends.
@@MikeTW yessir i initially wanted to swap in my lowering springs but just ended up stripping my sway bar link and banging on a rotor all day.
@@balakays550Sometimes that's the way she goes. Glad you were able to get them off, and hopefully the lowering springs give you the stance you're looking for.