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Could be that the torch isn't set up properly or that you've got a faulty machine. I'd see if you can get in touch with the manufacturer and see if they can help.

I just ran an easy 1000 miles with varying rpm and load. Just city driving essentially without going over 3500-4000 rpm. I changed the oil at 500 and 1000 miles. So far so good.

The coyote sound is definitely not for everyone. There's a lot of ways to change the sound, H pipes usually give them a lower smoother tone much like the older pushrod V8's sounded. However, the X pipe which is what I run gives them a higher pitch raspy tone, I prefer it that way. Also revving to 7500-8000 rpm makes them sound a lot different than the older engines, just a different way of doing things making power higher in the rev range with dual overhead cams and variable valve timing. All this makes the engine have a more import/European sound which is also why they respond to boost so well. Although it makes them considerably larger engines and more complex, everything is life is a compromise, gotta take the good with the bad sometimes. Thanks for the comment!

Oil pump gears and an oil cooler if you’ve got the 5.0. Good coilovers, I went with Scotidi angle kit and handbrake. Make sure you’ve got some sort of locking differential and that’s pretty much all you really need to go have fun.

I ended up with a new intake and had to rework the placement and now it’s down in the danger zone of the front of the car again. So I’m found to have to remake some AN lines and figure out another spot for it.

As long as you don’t open the bleed valves you won’t have to do a brake bleed. Just slowly press the pistons back in so with a caliper spreader using the old pads to push against.

This was a new engine from Ford. I have heard recently that they are on back order, but I think you can get a reman engine from ford. Still get the same warranty I believe.

I’ve had no issues with them so far. If you let the car sit for awhile they do get surface rust, but nothing major. Just be careful with the coating on the rotor hat when you clean them off before installing. If you can leave the coating intact on the hat it won’t rust. They are a little heavy but to be fair it’s a lot of metal. So unless you want to drop the coin on two piece rotors it’s just what it is. The pads and rotors aren’t any noisier than you’d expect for an aggressive street/track pad. A little squeak when they’re cold first few stops and then after that nothing. I don’t notice it unless the windows are down. Brake dust has been no worse than anything else I’ve run. Hope that gives you a little bit of insight.

Nice.

Glad it helped!

It probably took the two of us about 5-6 hours to remove it and then tear down the engine.

I run a 18x9.5 + 38 and then I added a 5 mil spacer to clear my suspension but if you’re on stock suspension you might be able to get away with a little lower offset

​@@MikeTW heck yeah thanks man!

I wish I remembered man it’s been a long time since I installed those. Sorry!

Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching dude!

Yeah it did it when I exported it and I was like ahh screw it I'm posting it lol.

Negative.

@@jacegman You can’t mute the sound of good Ol American Bald Eagles 🦅

Who'd want to is the real question here!

@@MikeTWspare me please, I’m going to go deaf following you next event

@@jacegman Ear Plugs and a helmet, it'll be almost silent lol.

I have no idea what this means lol

That's gotta be it!

Trying to get there!

Anotha one!

Well if it will turn over without the torque converter attached I would say it’s not in the engine. Has to be something in the transmission or something. Do the easy stuff, make sure you’re in neutral and the parking brake is off.

@@MikeTW I've pulled the motor back out, still won't make a full turn, I'm going to scope the intake ports, something may have falling in and hanging up a valve.

@@MikeTW I think you meant that the torque converter not being disconnected to the engine eliminates the transmission as a cause. The truck was running and driving before replacing the engine. Yesterday I video scoped the intake ports and the cylinders and found 2 cylinders holding water, and 2 with a large rust build up on the low side of the cylinders. After removing the water, I added mystery oil to all of them and let them sit for a day.

So the mystery oil did the trick. The engine is now free to turn full rotations. Thanks, for the help.

@@rjgarciasr Glad you got it sorted. I was on a work trip the past few days, so it has been hard to check my messages. If the engine was outside and got some water in the cylinders that explains it.

I assume by now you’ve gotten them off, but penetrating oil, heat and a hammer are your friends.

@@MikeTW yessir i initially wanted to swap in my lowering springs but just ended up stripping my sway bar link and banging on a rotor all day.

@@balakays550Sometimes that's the way she goes. Glad you were able to get them off, and hopefully the lowering springs give you the stance you're looking for.

That would be spicy lol.

Early results look promising, still need to control the heat off them long tubes though.

@@MikeTW are they coated?

@@tshaw0277 Negative, bareass steel.

Uuuge' loud

I’ll keep that in mind for the next one! Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Dude, that about sums up this job for sure. The door latch is probably the worst design I’ve seen in a long time.

Now all we gotta do is get cool parts for the M.

Oh yeah definitely gotta get yourself a homie like Dru

So far they’ve done well. I’m sure going full solid bushings on the subframe and differential will make everything even better

@@MikeTW yessir, brightslide said that changing the vertical link eliminated all the wheel hop for him. And another guy told me that putting a 2way LSD in the car stop the wheel hop as well.

Yeah the vertical links are next to do on my list.

@@MikeTW niiice man I definitely need to try them too

No worries my man. I’m always up for some constructive criticism. I tried it on this one just to see if I like it. But I think on a similar video I’ll just punch in or something instead of flipping. I haven’t done it since because it wasn’t my favorite effect lol.

It did take a lot of work, but I enjoy learning new things and that's what keeps me motivated. It's not a perfect repair but for my first time and being that the mustang is a drift car it definitely is "good enough" lol.

Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching.

The puller has instructions in the box when you either purchase or rent it. Once you see it if you’ve done any sort of mechanical work you’ll get the idea pretty quickly.

@MikeTW which is exactly why that puller can put doubt into your mind. It's not for Fords, I belive it's a Gm/Chrysler puller. The diameter of the rods is about half that of the snout bore. So anyone with any mechanical sense would be hesitant to just put that in there and let it rip. If you don't have that thing centered/it starts to bend in the snout, you could be up sh1t creek in an instant. So yeah, it could use a video clarifying that it is a good puller to use on these motors, and just how to use it.

@@TheManic.5-OH I see what you mean, but there are only so many crank pullers on the market. The coyote has a very deep crank snout so you need a kit with a long rod. Those long rods go inside where the bolt would thread in. So there's less wiggle than it initially appears. Alternatively, you can use your old balancer bolt to use as a push point for the puller. See video below. th-cam.com/video/ORonBjU0Gd8/w-d-xo.html

@MikeTW I ended up just watching a few videos of people using a similar tool. I was concerned mostly about how narrow those rods are and having them buckle inside the snout then contorting the pulley/gnarling up the outter surface of the crank snout. When I commented on the video about it, I was probably and hour and half into digging online for answers or just anyone using that kit and then living to tell about it 😅 I just ended up doing it and centering it best I could with a washer and it worked fine. I have the oem puller kit and also the separate install kit. Back in the day we used to just use those 3 jaw style pullers with great amounts of nofuks given. I have all thefuks to give on this project. If I f it up, I'm done for maybe a year because of finances. So it's gotta go smooth and I have to do every ounce of diligence that I can to make sure I do it right. That's where I'm coming from. Plus filming for this video I'm making to help everyone else doing this, I needed to make sure I had all my facts straight on the safest possible approach to do this. This oem kit is the way to go

@@TheManic.5-OH Glad you were able to get it sorted. I'm with you I'm usually very careful with anything dealing with crank/thrust bearings. The things I've seen people do getting the harmonic balancers on/off are wild. Torch, hammers, pry bars you name it. Good luck on the project are you installing the Oil pump gears?

It had about 160k on it

Oh yeah, it's an old drag car that the guy has started converting to a drift machine.

Carl does know what he's doing as it turns out.

You should be fine, it does well on my small compressor.

Most definitely!

Oh yeah! Just good enough no more no less.

Oh yeah! Finally get to stretch its legs this weekend.

Oh yeah baby! Got an event this weekend so we’ll get to put it through its paces.

Thanks for watching, my man!

@@MikeTW yesssir can’t wait to see your drift event video

At least the mosquitoes die up there in the winter. Here they just hide for a few days then come back in droves. How’s that Vette coming along?

@@MikeTW it drives, haven't done much to it yet.

@@tshaw0277 Well it drove when it left here! Lol.

@@MikeTW exactly lol replaced some electrical switches and that's been that.

You'll have it up and going before you know it.

You and me both! It’s definitely a ton of work, makes you realize why those body repair are so expensive lol.

It did remarkably well for what it is. I did have to make that adapter to be able to use the ratchet strap, but it was literally just welding a shackle to a bolt and bam we were in business.

Not to bad for a dum dum like me! Thanks for watching dude!

Ayeee thanks for watching us fix her up!

Yup already ordered some toolage to see what we can do! Should be able to get it looking pretty slick again.