Quick Tip: The Right Way To Stake an AR-15 Castle Nut
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2023
- Forget what you just read on Reddit and Facebook. There are plenty of wrong ways to stake an AR-15's castle nut. Then there's Caleb's Way, which he's going to demonstrate for us today. The castle nut threads onto the receiver extension (aka buffer tube) and locks the extension to the receiver. It's called a "castle nut" because of the evenly spaced wrench notches that make it look like the top of a medieval castle's tower. You stake the castle nut to the receiver endplate to prevent it from backing out, which in turn prevents the receiver extension from working loose.
Caleb demonstrates with a Geissele buffer tube, Bravo Company endplate, and a Forward Controls Design Castle Nut FCD. You'll need a bench vise, lower receiver vise block, cross-peen hammer, and a center punch - pointed tip or square tip is fine. Do not use a woodworker's countersink punch! Before he begins, Caleb shows us an example of how NOT to stake the castle nut: too shallow, with mere surface damage to the nut and endplate. You've gotta move some metal to do a proper staking job!
There are three small, shallow notches on the side of the castle nut that faces the rear of the receiver. Position the punch with its tip covering about half the depth of the endplate directly opposite a notch. Hold the punch so it stands straight out from the side of the endplate - don't angle it. Lightly tap it several times with the hammer to start making an indent in the endplate. Once you've made a nice indent to keep the tip of the punch from slipping, you can apply harder hammer strikes, but DO NOT whale on it!
When you're done, you should have a neat, circular dimple in the endplate, with a good bit of metal smooshed (technical term) into the notch in the castle nut. For an extra-secure installation, stake one of the other two notches in the castle nut. (You don't have to do all three.) That castle nut is NOT coming loose without your help!
Is staking really necessary? Find out in our earlier video "Smyth Busters: Does an AR-15 Castle Nut Have To Be Staked?"
Get the details on FCD's upgraded castle nut: "Product Spotlight: Forward Controls CNF Castle Nut" - กีฬา
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LocTite has destroyed more receiver extensions than staking. Change my mind....
Caleb, I have no desire to change your mind because I'm not an expert. But please tell us how LocTite has destroyed more receiver extensions than staking.
@@William_Charles_Baker because staking has broke zero.
is that a SOLGW lower, loving the M16 cut receiver
@@shadyp-zv3uf wut?
@@William_Charles_Baker Well, I personally watched someone bend a lower receiver trying to break a Rock River Arms castle nut free that was held with red loctite. RRA was known to do this in the early 2000s, and maybe they still do.
If you need a breaker bar to do anything on an AR15, you are doing it wrong.
Punch starter from harbor freight. No more “missed-stakes” aka mistskes haha I’m here all week folks
The best instructional content never makes assumptions about the audience's level of knowledge/understanding, and explains each item, defines all terms, doesn't skip steps or take bits of knowledge along the way for granted.
Videos like this are a great help to people and much needed to ensure people are getting the correct reference material.
ok
@@Dan-di9jdok
All this talk of Stake, but not once did I see A1 sauce. What a bunch of culinary savages.
A real savage puts steak sauce on steak.
@@Heywoodthepeckerwood I tend to agree, but if A1 is around I'll use it, I could drink that shit.
Ketchup for the win!😂
@@Heywoodthepeckerwoodnah bruh, it tastes good in moderation, to accent the flavor, not overwhelm it.
@@huh0123 I am willing to bet you’ve never had a properly cooked steak if you believe this.
Legend says that Caleb is still staking his castle nut
SAFETY GLASSES would be highly recommended! 30+ years as a Tool & Die Maker and I can assure you the flying debris in the eyes comes mostly from grinding and pieces coming off of a center punch.
20 years for me in the same trade, and I 100% agree.
Wire wheels are no bueno
Safety goggles. I have been to the ER twice to get metal removed from my eye. I was wearing glasses one of those times. The debris can and will get around glasses.
@@thisissparta8884
If I know that the chances are higher than usual that lots of small harmful particles are around working with some tool, I go for goggles that have a rubber lip all around. I currently have some from uvex cause they don't fog up. I gladly sweat a bit for not having someone burn a bit of metal out of my eyeball.
@@thisissparta8884 Face shield & approved glasses the 2nd time it happened from a flap wheel.
Bro, the flannel game is strong in this one. And the one before, and before.
Been running an un-staked un-torqued buffer tube for as long as I can remember. I'm glad I found this video 😂. It doesn't take much movement at all to lose that spring and pin for the take down pin retention. If there's even a 1/16 gap ive had that spring fly out.
About 3 to 4 shots with an automatic punch does the trick for me. Thanks Caleb.
I’ve been watching Brownells videos for years, always really good and this kid keeps getting better.
Caleb, always appreciate your expert demonstrations.
Ive assembled hundreds of lowers and I use a center punch. It works well and you dont have to worry about hitting yourself with the hammer! 😅
It's also pretty good at punching some of the pins in without using a hammer.
Thank you! New to building and your channel is a life saver 🙌
Excellent instructions as always. Made the task a breeze. Went for two, came out perfect. 👍🏻
In my experience, a random "MILSPEC" LPK usually has a butt-plate that is easily workable with a good angled punch. However, I swapped in one of those Magpul QD butt-plates, and that was considerably harder steel to move. Using a good quality hard punch is key. If you don't have one, get one.
Just want to say thank you !
Love the spread of knowledge
Would be nice to see you show the best way to remove a staked part, ie: gas key, buffer tube nut, etc.
I second that because something tells me the method I use isn't great if you're looking to reuse parts...thankfully I always end up swapping the standard plate for a qd mount so theres that I guess lol
just try to push the metal out of the slot and break the castle nut free, but sometimes it might be really stubborn, plan on at least losing your backplate. I like to use a spare brass drift punch to turn the castle nut or a spanner wrench
@@ArgolasBowmaster just try to push the metal out of the slot and break the castle nut free, but sometimes it might be really stubborn, plan on at least losing your backplate. I like to use a spare brass drift punch to turn the castle nut or a spanner wrench
@@joshuajohnson6018 i always wind up replacing it anyways. I was just hoping to find a way to maybe salvage it
with a wrench
Thank you! I never knew about staking a castle nut and always wondered why mine worked loose. Just staked my SBR build.
I love your delivery ! Have a Blessed Day !
I just subscribed to your channel today. I like that your videos are short and to the point, when I watch TH-cam I'm not looking for a documentary. Keep up the good work 👍
I'm glad to see you showing people the right way to do it, so many of my friends didn't even know that it needed to be done and the nut came loose at the range! I always carry tools with me just in case of this reason
If you tighten your shit down like a man, you don't need to stake.
@@Chewedbacca Yes you do. There’s clearly a reason government contract guns are staked (as well as any competent manufacturer)
What happens when they come loose?
@@TUKByV The 'best case' would be: your receiver extension is now loose, meaning your stock is also loose and can rotate side to side.
The 'worst case' would be: your receiver extension rotated far enough to allow the rear takedown detent and spring to leave the gun, meaning there is now nothing holding the rear takedown pin in place, so it could walk itself out and your upper and lower are no longer held together in the rear.
@@TUKByV my friends stock twisted to almost 45 degrees while he was shooting at the range
Greatly appreciate it Brownells and Caleb. Thanks and Blessings!
I use the automotive spring loaded center punch purchased from the harbor freight no hammer needed just press it striaght down then tilt it and press down a few more times to move material into the notch. No vice needed. Professional staking every time. Think its not needed think again. Prior to our Afghan deployment my buddy wanted to put a qd end plate on his M4. The gunners mates put it on but did not stake it as they were going to take it off after. Halfway through the castle nut came loose. Luckily at a time when it was not critical but could of very well happened at the wrong time
Just did a build for a customer with a .300 BlkOut Roscoe Barrel and with that Dimple installation was a breeze!! 😎
For recent "reasons", I had to do an extension swap on my AR pistol, which I had staked in exactly this fashion. A good armorer's tool and some leverage will still undo the work, so don't worry about this making anything too permanent. Staking the castle nut is always advised.
That said, I suspect future court rulings to negate recent events, and I chose to not re-stake the nut upon reinstallation in anticipation of doing this work again sometime soon. If/when a final install is made, it will be staked again exactly as Caleb shows here, as this is the only good method I've seen.
I hope you're right about undoing recent events. The courts always seem able to surprise me with their lack of haste.
Lol this douchebag is compliant
@@yzrippin You seem well adjusted...
Is this a “To Whom It My Concern” statement in which you are making a legal declaration and notification regarding the alteration of and function of said castle nut? Response is not required, thumbs up indicates yes.
I am not a lawyer, this is not legal advice. You are solely responsible for your actions and outcomes of those actions.
Best regards.
@@sixoffive No, staking a castle nut has nothing to do with legality in any way. I provided backstory for why I recently encountered a staked castle nut. Readers are free to disregard the backstory entirely.
But stake your castle nuts, people.
Straightforward explanation. Thank you.
I am in the process of learning how to assemble my first AR. This is a great piece of info that I will definantly use. Appreciate the video, Thanks.
Good job! I do two stakes, as per mil-spec. The reason my fellow builders commenting here haven't had an unstaked castle nut back out on them "ever" is because those rifles have never been in the hands of an infantryman for a 12mo combat tour. Range and home defense guns don't need staking. Militia, military and law enforcement rifles need to be staked. Only time I've ever removed a buffer tube is to install one folding stock adaptor, and I was able to crank the staked castle nut off, no problem (replacing it with a new one, so I could re-stake.) 👊🏼🇺🇲👊🏼
I’ve dropped, smashed and dinged my rifle on more things than I can count. She took a beating for sure.
Grunt-proofing
This is a great video and the host is excellent.
I stalked mine twice. After watching how little it took to break loose a stake even after being properly staked. I used one of my smaller masons chisels and hammer. The many coats of paint help hold mine too. lol.
I have never staked a castle nut. Never had an issue. I like easier disassembly for swapping out parts.
???? Spend a lot of time swapping out buffer tubes? You guys....so funny. I've NEVER swapped out a buffer tube. If you swap it out....99% chance you are swapping it out with an IDENTICAL part. There really isn't a good reason to not stake it. It isn't "permanent", it is more secure, and you are likely never going to replace it anyway.
@JenkinsStevenD yeah? I've seen both way's work. I've made both choices for different reasons over the yrs. I'd guess it comes down to personal preference.🤔 Caleb here was teaching the proper way to stake IF YOU CHOOSE TO.😉🫡💥💥💥
@@choke666 My comment was advocating for staking. The Internet these days....
Spend more time shooting and less time playing fashionable parts swapping and you will see the benefit of staking the endplate.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 truth right here
Thanks for all the education Caleb!!
Bought the exact tool you guys said to buy, did exactly what you said and it ended up cracking my end plate. Magpul endplate. Edit: It was because I started the punch process too close to the middle of the end plate I would definitely do a closer to 1/3 to a 1/4 from the side, worked night and day better for me and got a perfect stake. super easy.
Bit of common sense aint it
God samn that's a beautiful stake. I was making the mistake of going at an angle and botched a couple. Makes perfect sense about the path of least resistance
Good video...I have a 2X4 wood stand with a plastic conduit ring attached to the top of it. It's cut to the right height to the level of my vice and bench block. It slides over the buffer tube and stands on the bench to support the rear of the buffer to take out the wobble from the bench block while staking the castle nut. Cause I'm always nervous of damaging or deforming the lower receiver in any way. 😊
If I'm understanding your description, that really makes sense...if you're bored, I love a picture of that 2x4 wood stand.
Excellent video! 👍🏻
Best video on the subject right here.
Spring loaded center punches work even better. Don't need a vise, can do it right on the workbench.
Thank you Caleb, now I know the correct way to stake a castle nut.
I picked up an automatic punch that does a darn good job. It takes about 15 strikes but it looks factory clean.
I appreciate your build videos, they're my go to when I have a question
I ground down a nail set and made a nice lookin stake with eggs n toast...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍🎯🎯🎯🎯
My first build I used a Primary Weapons System ratcheting castle nut. No staking needed. My second build, which I just completed, I used the standard castle nut. I have not staked it yet, but after watching the video I think I will go back and do it.
Do your self a favor and throw that silly "ratcheting castle nut" away. You'll thank me later.
These are guys that keep me from going to ranges. "There's only my way of doing things or you'll get made fun of".
Because there is only one way, and you deserve to be made fun of if you aren't staking your castle nut.
@@KeepTheGates I rest my case
Own 10 ARs i have built myself of various calibers from 556 to 308 and built dozens of other rifles and never staked a castle nut. Never had one come loose either.
Drop it on the buttock
Same. But still a good tip for the toolbox, I guess.
@@gierhedd75 true.
Me either, but if you're out and about, you'll be miserable with it loose. Only takes a sec.
Probably don’t shoot enough
I never stake them. Never had one come loose
Me either’ I do check them every once in a while during cleaning and never found one loose. Im not in combat and I don’t larp in the desert. 😂
Even the M4's and A2's we had I do not recall seeing a stake. A Buddy of mine was a company armorer and he never talked about having to stake. Maybe I was a sleep during the countless hours of clean my weapons...
Thread locker is all u need i would think
You've never had one come loose because your guns live in the safe. They're designed to be staked.
@@KeepTheGates actually my AR stays by my side. I don't even own a safe.
The Bob Ross of staking ar's
I use a Starrett Steel Automatic Center Punch on every build I've ever done. It does a much better job moving the metal IMO and have been complimented by many gunsmiths and armors for having perfectly staked castle nuts. Mine look just as good as yours😉👊👍🇺🇸
Which diameter? I see a few on Amazon.
size?
That just for marking metal for your drill bit pilot. Recommended by AVE, use the auto center punch to accurately make your mark, then follow up with a big beefy hammer and normal center punch. If you give it one solid hit, it shouldn't move from that previous mark
I just find it funny how there's so much drama over this. Meanwhile there's people building AKs off of flats they have to heat treat themselves.
Reject modernity. Return to monke
Steel sheets, heat treat and then fold and press rivets???
I’m sure there are plenty of people getting into snobby arguments over the AK. Perhaps something about clone correct or properly milled parts
@@Samos900 Hey hey hey. Whoa whoa whoa.
Just kidding.
that’s a fact I’ve put together 5 from start to finish and seriously any one can do this. literally anyone. you don’t even need many tools. yet some people just don’t have the confidence to put them together themselves.
I like to use those "self hammering" center punches. Seems like it puts less stress on the lower reciever but still moves metal great!
No vice block necessary with those type punches either...
Appreciate the video!
you mentioned a vice block that holds the receiver extension. I found a decent one on Etsy for under 15 clams. Makes torquing the castle nut less stressful for.
Great!! Thanks for the accurate info.
Very cool, looks great
Ive staked a few....honestly a big fan of the lantac RPS now...never had any issues. better than the PWS
Great video
Great video. Thanks
Thank you Elvis, Thank you very much!
Very Informative Information
Going to do this for an old lower I never bothered to stake. Also, love you guys - I called the tech line with a very specific question about installing a muzzle device on my BRN-180S, and got someone helpful in like 5 minutes. Thanks for providing that service.
Make sure you torque it down good beforehand👍
When he says that his way is the correct way, I believe him.
Did Steve do that first stake job? 👀
Built an entire AR in the amount of time this guy took to stake the castle nut 😂
Things take a bit longer when we take our time to explain things, but that's to be expected.
Dude. This "guy" has probably forgotten more about building and maintaining firearms than you'll ever dream to know.
And he does it without a single hair EVER moving from its place. The gel game is strong with Caleb.
Automatic punch, no hammer needed. 👍
Until it slips and scratches the customers parts
Ty! Great video
I love my stakes well done.
First, I have nothing against staking a castle nut. But as others have mentioned, I take things apart often and like to be able to easily disassemble. So I use blue Loctite, which Caleb says never to do, and it works just fine for me.
Amen brother. Works fine and holds for more rounds than one can afford
Ditto. And if that nut comes loose with a collapsible stock you'll know it before it induces a failure during firing.
Agreed... a small drop of blue works fine, holds up well and with a little heat can I have never had a problem with removal.
what is wrong with firearms community is, when it come to building firearms, like Caleb, people should be "helping each other" instead of insulting someone for doing something incorrectly.
Or you could just find another hobby community that panders to your delicate sensibilities. 😆
@Mike Fields It's people like you that have isolated and misled youth away from misunderstanding firearms. We wonder why youth are against firearms.
They are helping by making videos like this. Anyone with a 3 digit IQ tells everyone to stake their castle nut. If people choose to do things the wrong way and keep being ignorant, they deserve to be made fun of.
@mikefields1776 Based on your profile pic, you are unhealthily overweight and need to eat/exercise correctly. You're doing it wrong tubs.
I like to use a 4x4 from table to under extension to take pressure off the Lower Rcvr. That way you have less strikes also.
Good Video/Info. THAT'S HOW MINE LOOK!!!!!
Thank you!
Thank you very much sir!
No, thank you!
I like this one!
My automatic center punch works perfectly for this. I can click it once, then move it to a slight angle and 1 or 2 more times it pushes the material where I need to be. No hammer needed.
Who makes the ambidextrous mag release in that lower? Also great video!
That is why i love my vism lower clamping device is rock solid and the lower does not move at all is well worth the $30 for that extra tool
Another excellent video! Thanks, Caleb. I am assembling parts to build my first AR and this is very good information.
Awesome, glad it helped! Be sure to check out the AR15 build series on the webpage!
During my time, I have never staked one of these but I might start now…
Good tip.
Thanks!
🤪🤪 glad i saw this video. I was about to use lock tight 🤣🤣 it's my first build..
I stake all castle nuts. However, I do not stake them when the lower is in the vise. I lay the installed castle nut/endplate assembly on a piece of wood on the floor and hit with a Starrett 117C. I lay on the piece of wood as to not put loads of torque on the receiver. Some end plates are strong and you have to whack it pretty hard
I found that I have to clamp the buffer tube in barrel clamps to keep the lower from bouncing around, creating a moving target.
Thank you!!!
COME AND STAKE IT CALEB!
Thank you
Always watch these guys when I need help. Great videos!
@brownells, funny was just in your shop looking for a new punch, one of your older employees told me, I don’t do that, I just use loctite 😂
That employee is an idiot
TIL i've been doing this wrong. thanks guys.
Thanks, Caleb. I would also like to see the correct way to remove a staked object. Just wrench on it till it gives? Thans has been my method in the past but I would like to know if there is something better.
Yeah, just unscrew it like normal. It takes a bit more torque but it will break the stake without breaking anything else.
I tried doing that with a Magpul back plate and the back plate metal was harder than the punch. So I've never staked a buffer castle nut and I've never had one come loose. I just torque them down to MMF! ft-lbs. No stake, Loctite, or welding.
I got into the AR15 world in the ancient days of 1977, with tubs of parts/accessories from constant swapping & experimenting on many lowers. I've never staked a castle nut and never had one come loose. For collapsing stock tubes I face the notches THE WRONG WAY...!! I didn't like snagging my skin on the notches plus the notches facing the receiver add a little bite to stay.
I don't understand all the angst over this. Use some muscle. This is not rocket science.
I will continue to use nail punches thank you very much
GOOD SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS..😉
This video was information gold and the comments were platinum. Seems I should not have used blue loctite on my romeo7
Thank you!!!! I wish you had this video out two years ago when I thought it was a great idea to loctite my castle nut.
You did fine. Staking is 1960's stuff. Things do progress. Loctite works.
Thanks this always the biggest pain.
Good point, how do you remove a staked castle nut?
You can move some of the metal in the castle nut notches out with a punch to make getting the nut off easier.
Even with a very good stake, you can still just take it off with a wrench; the metal of the backplate is very soft and will just bend out of the way.
Good. Now, how do you correctly remove a properly staked castle nut?
👍Thank you.
What is your opinion of using automatic center punches? I have achieved professional LOOKING results from this method and also allow me to get to all available staking points and of the dozen or so rifles I have done this with none have come loose? Unfortunately I also have a couple rifles that have no staking at all for ease of changing things and they haven't loosened up either
Love em! I have a few but did not want to use it for this video, I wanted to keep it as budget as possible with still being correct.