Mine came staked from the factory. However, when I find the configuration I like, I’ll definitely stake the castle nut. But in the meantime, I won’t while I’m tinkering and playing around with things.
@@JamesBond-ut5iv I’m considering making an AR with a folding stock. But as to which buffer tube config I want to use, I haven’t decided yet. I am only at the stage of researching uppers and lowers to determine what I like and actually want on my custom. So, not very far along at all in the process.
I'd still stake it if I was shooting it between different configurations. Don't need to stake it in more than one location. Mil Spec end plates are dirt cheap. If you use a Tango Uniform Echo Zulu castle nut when playing with many configurations, it's made with many staking locations compared to a Mil Spec, and you should never run out of them.
I always love these videos from Brownells. They consistently keep it classy, stay reasonable, and avoid trying to manufacture controversy (unlike so many gun channels).
I recently bought my first AR and these series you two are putting out are very informative. And now I definitely think the coffee mug drinking synchronization is done on purpose. 😊👍🏻
@@CalebSavant Can confirm. I called Brownells, and a nice lady answered my question about shipping ammo out of state. Defintley a company that cares about its customers.
I’ve had one come loose on a patrol rifle. Thankfully it was during range time not in the field. On my personal rifles I go with loctite as it’s easier to change when you want to yet holds well. I’ve only been a fan of staking when nothing is going to change.
Right with you. Recently built an AR pistol - my only AR - and am still not sure I am Going to leave the set up as it is... still seeing what works for me. So 242 for now, with the plan of possibly staking it when I get to where I am sure I am done.
TL Wiz: There are other things that can be done besides stocks over your tube. I have a Troy Industries quick detach sling mount which goes on before the nut; swopping something like that or adding a folding stock adapter also involves changing the tube.
I use red loctite and torque to spec for my personal rifles. I find it is as hard, and often harder, to remove than a staked one unless you apply some heat.
I am a firm believer and user of the PWS ratchet system castle nut and end plate, I have them on all my AR rifles and pistols and they've been fantastic!
@@Adrian_Zenz as long as you use it sparingly, like your supposed to. Even then, heat will still liquify it. You can't be wrong to use heat, in any case.
@@Adrian_Zenz What do you mean by "using heat"? If I back my aftermarket out to add blue loctite, would it mess up the little spring under the retainer plate? Or do you guys mean to use Blue loctite for the castle nut, and NOT the actual buffer tube assembly? (Which is dry as they came from the factory, not greased like some advise) I plan to use a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle on the armorers wrench to 30-40 ft/lb and avoid staking so wondering if that's good enough, that's why I ask what you mean by "heat". Everyone is saying the torque readings are accurate if using the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the armorers wrench slot for the 1/2" slot, then you always have the guy saying that the manual says to use both wrenches parallel with each other, yet others say that provides a false reading. Hopefully you can answer these questions if you see this!
Great content guys. For me it depends on the gun. If the build is finished & nothing is going to be changed I stake it. If there’s a chance I’ll be making changes I’ve found loctite & marking it with a paint pen works well. If I see it start to drift I’ll tune it back up & go.
Some buffer tubes, like ones from POF and Spike, have a groove in the top that catches the pin that engages/retains the buffer and buffer spring. That helps keep the tube from wiggling loose if you also tighten the castle nut down pretty tight. Between the two, your stock will probably not rotate loose. I'd most likely want it staked if it was a military or LE patrol rifle. But for hunting, target shooting and bimonthly practice, I don't want it staked because I'm always messing with the internals.
I recently built a full BCM setup and didn't stake the castle nut, just wondering if ugga dugga torqueing it would be enough. I helped co instruct a class last month for Taskdev and within a few hundred rounds my buffer tube was able to rotate on its own and I had to whip out the armorers wrench mid class to re torque my build. Definitely always stake your nut.
Staking a castle nut is in the same category as sporterizing a milsurp rifle... People need to stop making permanent modifications to rifles... that's the bottom line. 1:46 is a prime example of what I'm talking about. If there is demand, then people will make an accessory which does the equivalent of what a permanent modification would do, and the accessory would not be permanent.
That's actually a pretty fair point. If your parts are quality made, and you properly torque them, you'll probably shoot out your barrel before your nut comes loose. I mean, it's 5.56/.223 ffs; not much recoil impulse to shake it loose. Maybe on an AR-10. Even if it does come loose, you'll catch it during cleaning, as you do parts checks during cleaning anyway.
I build my own and have never staked them. I did have one come loose on me at one point though. Since then I always use blue loctite and have never had a problem. Great video and topic fellas!
i did a half assed stake job, just a little over a year of use i noticed the staking mark and slot didnt line up and i could loosen the castlenut by hand. so one of my ARs did come loose and i tightened and staked all my other ARs
Just put some paint once its tight right top dead center where the nut meets the upper . I use red but you can use any color any time you use you can clearly see if it was shifted . Make it easy
I fall into the used once in a while category so what I do is use some blue loc-tite on the threads and tighten down, that way I can take it off or change it with no difficulty without having to stake.
AR's are not cheap to build but it's pretty cool to add on a new piece that works (ratcheting castle nut) and that includes a center punch in your gun tool box also. Even though you might have to dig a little deeper into your pockets that's the nature of this Hobby. May the 2nd Amendment be with US. 🐢😃👍
I compete with my AR15 every weekend. The SBR lower has hundreds of thousands of rounds. I never staked it, I used blue locktite and torqued to spec. It has NEVER walked out on me.
@Michael Aylor I've never actually done the math, but I buy in bulk and cheap and way ahead of time. Buying 5k rounds at a time is pretty normal. But I tend to shoot whatever is cheapest. Depending on the match restrictions, I shoot .22LR, 9mm, 5.56, 7.62x39, 5.45, and .308 Win out of the same lower. I have shot .45 ACP and .40 S&W, but not normally since 9mm is cheaper during non-panic times anyways, for when I need to shoot pistol calibers as required; all from the same SBR lower. I just swap out uppers and at times the buffer and spring depending on caliber. I am known as the "steel cased guy" because usually the cheapest ammo is Russian steel cased import ammo. I still beat a lot of people even with cheap steel cased ammo, which is funny. My last 5k of 9mm before the panic, I got for 13 cents per round shipped in my hands. It was some of that Monarch stuff from Academy Sports. Pretty good deal.
@Michael Aylor Just as an example, guys in my unit in the Army would periodically pitch in together and buy ammo in bulk by the tens of thousands of rounds to get a better deal. Some guys spend money on fancy cars, some on airplanes, some on guns, etc. I known quite a few people who would go through thousands, if not tens of thousands, of rounds per year easy.
I’m on both sides of this. I will try different stocks or braces, dependent on firearm use, till I find the one I don’t want to change out then stake it down. But during this process I have had a castle but come loose once during extensive use. So when you find the right end I believe it should be staked.
I'm ex-military too. I'm also shooting in competition I have never staked one have built many if you stake it I think you take it for granted that it's tight if you don't stake it you tend to,as a routine, to check that nut to make sure that it's tight...just my opinion. Locktite it...
after MANY builds and a LOT of use both in the Field and general shooting I just keep a wrench handy. the Loctite fix does work and You CAN remove the Castle nut if ya have to I just prefer not to.
Thank you! This is exactly my philosophy, too. Preventative maintenance and parts inspection should be part of one's cleaning routine. My gas key is staked, but you better believe it's one of the parts I check to verify it's still working properly. I have a castle nut wrench weighing less than half an ounce in my cleaning kit, along with the tool for my Aero Precision ATLAS S-One hand guard. I check it for solid lockup. Same with my gas block and A2 muzzle break. Doesn't take but a second or two to check if things are snug (apply a dot of nail polish where two parts meet - if the dot shears, it's probably coming loose).
Had 3 castle nuts loosen on me through the years. Like the ratchet type End Plate/Castle Nut systems as a good compromise. It is a bit painful staking a pricier end plate or PDW system but, if you got a good buffer tube, there is seldom a reason to replace.
I bought my first AR about a year ago and it wasn’t staked but being a newbie, I had no idea. The buffer tube was loose and my retainer pin and spring got pushed out and destroyed after shooting at the range. I wish I knew about this sooner
I recently built my first AR15. I live in California, and since I wanted all the evil parts on my rifle, I had to make it with a fixed mag configuration. When testing out different parts I came across a mag lock/king pin combo that required being inserted from the left side of the firearm so every time you took the gun apart to clean it you had to remove the takedown pin and in order to reinsert it you had to loosen the castle nut and endplate to move the detent back to put the takedown pin back in. I swapped back to my old fixed mag system instantly.
I stake mine, except for my Maxim brace which doesn't allow you to stake it & I've had that one back out on me. Ive also got one PWS ratcheting system, have yet to try it out (haven't fired the gun that has it yet since I just built it).
I had a new colt lower (factory) and it didn't come staked... say what you will about colt but it's a rare miss in my opinion. It came loose the first time I shot it and I noticed it while cleaning. Bought a PWS buffer and system and I've never had a problem since.
@@556bc Staking is between the end plate and castle nut so no matter what the nut is not "married" to the reciever. Blue Loctute holds to the same rotational force shaking does. Knights doesn't use tighter tolerances in these areas than other makers. Their end plate fits the same as any other.
My first AR was definitely a garage gun, and on a college student budget. Oh wait, it gets worse, it was in 300blk too. My barrel nut was hand tightened (didn't have a wrench that fit it) and my castle nut was neither staked nor loctited and was also hand tightened. Interestingly, the barrel nut never came loose from firing, but I was typically fairly gentle with it. The castle nut however DID come loose. Fast forward to my second build, bought a completed upper but still assembled the lower. This time I used a wrench (albeit not one made for a castle nut) and blue loctite, and while I don't handle this one particularly roughly either, it hasn't come loose from firing or tossing it around on an endplate mounted sling. I'd say loctite is good enough in a pinch but if you don't have a reason not to stake it, then why not? If your upper is gonna stay built, why not pin your gas block? It's the same idea.
I shoot all my ARs suppressed. So the Castle nuts always come loose. Got on my nerves and staked all of mine. Greetings from a fellow German shooting enthusiast.
Had a similar issue. Applied a couple drops of red loctite and torqued to spec haven't had issues since then. Idk why or If I would ever swap tubes, but I guess having the easier option to willfully remove it makes sense to me.
It takes 5 minutes to stake the castle nut. Army manual says to have it staked in 2 places and torqued to 40 +/-2 inch pounds. Being that most end plates are aluminum, it takes literally no additional effort to remove a staked castle nut. Torque to spec, stake in 2 places...dont be a dummy.
@Evocati Auto Insurance. Not needed. Never had an accident. The reason this is a topic for discussion, is that castle nuts HAVE come loose. Whether at the range or in a fight for your life, its extremely annoying to discover that you can't finger tighten the castle nut enough to keep the stock from twisting off your shoulder. But some people are unable to learn from the unfortunate experiences of others. They really need to learn the hard way.
I have never staked mine. I have never had any problems. I did have a hard time getting one off when I first nbought my AR. It had been staked and red loctighted. Some heat was needed to get it to come loose. So when I put it back on I torqued it to 2 jesus and a grunt and it has never come loose. I may look into the PWS that you showed if they make one for a collapsable stock.
Evocati I don’t use loctite on critical parts of the gun. I use loctite on small screws for scope mounts. That’s it. Don’t pretend to assume you know how my guns are built.
Just finished a build and was breaking the barrel in at the range trying to get a few down the pipe and in between cleaning I noticed the buffer tube was loose and at the time of the build I cranked that castle nut down and she came loose, never had that happen so I guess I will be staking even if there is a chance I will change something out. You never can tell.
I usually just dremel the areas with staking and the castle nut comes right off. Usually the tube isn't damaged but if it is I could care less because obviously I was replacing it for a reason one would hope. Looking through the comments. I see a lot of grown men that like to play Barbie dress up with a rifle.
I'm on the side of staking because I believe things like a sling and depending on how you shoulder it is actually applying a small amount of torque to the screw. I actually seen someone running a single point around the butt stock and he would let it hang and twist and move around and it eventually came loose. Not sure if it was staked or if it would have ended up like that regardless.
Good input- thank you - I’m a 20 year military retiree and I believe in staking it. I understand Steve’s point, but I RARELY alter components, since my engineering background strongly suggests that design and manufacturing decisions were made for valid reasons, and I’m reluctant to modify without FULLY understanding the basis for all such decisions.
I was told that it was because they didn’t want soldiers messing with it in the field. But at 40 ft/lbs it won’t come off. At least that’s what I was told.
Bobby Brady But that’s the fun of AR’s , to play around with them, change things and change them back if you want. Like I heard it said, they are like adult legos.
Jacob Schmoll: That’s obviously correct, BUT the design was OPTIMIZED for those constraints (such as affordability). Therefore, it is possible that the “adult lego” approach could - I am NOT suggesting it will, however, it certainly could - create inadvertent to problems. I pick the following non-AR example because the cause and effect are very clear (and also because I don’t want to open a “can of worms”). I have a close friend (retired FBI agent), who seriously competed in the IDPA enhanced revolver division, with a four-inch barrel S&W 686 firing “light” .357 magnum loads. To increase his competitiveness, he decided to replace all the springs in his 686 with lighter ones, thereby hopefully improving his times/scores. Everything seemed to work out well, until the manufacturer of his competition loads evidently changed the primer they had used for years. The new rounds had slightly harder primers, and he began to experience more-than-rare FTFs. We talked about it, he re-installed the factory springs, and the problem disappeared. Of course, this isn’t at all critical when the adverse results were a few poor IDPA competitive scores. BUT what if that 686 - with the new and lighter spring set - had been his duty sidearm (it wasn’t) or the weapon he often carried off-duty and kept on his nightstand (it was)? My point is good engineering practices optimize the entire SYSTEM; altering any element of that system can be perfectly fine . . . However, one needs to understand thoroughly the operating, reliability, maintainability, and durability implications before doing so.
Yip i don’t see anything staked on a race car yet its all there when done I think its the quality of workmanship and also I get the idea Americans see how far they can push their AR’s before they fall apart because I clean and check everything when im done shooting and this is something I learned in the military look after your most important tool like its your own child. Clean it tighten it and oil it. Thats my opinion. Staking not a bad thing just not end all be all.
@@shaunschneeberger6301 as a former racer and race car builder I can say that we use nylon locking nuts and lock tite on just about everything because if we didnt everything rattles loose.
I've used a permanent Loctite and make sure that I go 35 foot pounds as it's called for in the tightening of the castle nut and I've never had one come loose during competition or in the woods banging them around. What are you fellows thoughts on using a permanent type of Loctite or sealant agent along with the proper foot pounds of torque?? Thanks a bunch, Echo.
I did the same, put a liberal amount of loctite on the threads, torqued it to 40ft pounds. I shoot about 1000 rounds per range trip. Hasn't come loose at all and I'm a heavy user. I'd say on a full auto rifle, staking should be a concern but for semi auto loctite is enough. On the other hand, how often does law enforcement get to actually use their patrol rifles? Unless there's a major shoot out, I'd say us Joe-publics probably use our rifles alot more just in one weekend. I'll continue to keep an eye on it but I think that castle nut is stuck on there, most of your heat will stay at the front of the receiver so that isn't much concern either.
Negative. In the threads you need grease to prevent galling from steel on aluminum under torque. Then you stake it. Your experience < the experience of armorers for the mil who have seen millions of rifles since Nam.
On my first build I staked the castle nut really good. I was so proud of myself until i pulled out the rear takedown pin as it did not engage the grove. Let me just say it was a job removing the castle nut!
Well, here I go opening my mouth again........... As far as I can tell, There was never initially any intent on the part of Stoner nor Sullivan for a collapsible stock to exist at all and, if you look at the contours and shape of the lower receiver, it was meant to accept the full length fixed stock. The first time Colt CAR 15s showed up, most people in the business (at least in NYC which had a lot of gun dealers and distributors at the time) thought "that's pretty ugly the way they did that." The rifle receiver extension is not staked at all and no one ever worries about it coming loose and the stock is held in place by a simple flat head screw which,also, rarely comes loose. So ,what's the difference? You can twist a fixed stock all day long and, even if you broke it, it has no effect to loosen or tighten the rifle receiver extension. The CAR is a totally different story. Instead of utilizing the very substantial locating hole that the rifle stock uses, Colt came up with the "egg plate." It plugs the locating hole and substitutes a shallow key-way in an already threaded portion of a thin cross section aluminum tube. I don't think it's any secret how easy it is to twist the car stock and over ride the key-way even, sometimes while you're tightening the castle nut. At least, when they added the wire stock to the M231 port firing weapon, they utilized the locating hole in the receiver. So, in general, a threaded tube and lock nut are being used in a way that is not really a great idea. And, yes, of course, I stake them for LE and self defense use.
I use red to fuse and CRC Brakleen to dissolve the red if I need to take something off. Drop or two on set screw .. 20 minutes the red is liquified straight through. Just be sure to clean very well before reapplying red.
I put them on hand tight with a spanner wrench. That way I can change the stock easier. But I also have 2 ARs that have their barrels on hand tight. The handguard is also the nut so there won't be any surprise loosening.
If you have a little thread left over you could always just buy a separate thinner nut and use it as a jam nut making it permanent until you want to change out the extension tube or whatever.
I replaced my buffer tube with a colored one and never re-staked it. Would probably be easier to just stake it, but the old stake I broke off is really close to where the new one would go. Plus I want to eventually replace the castle nut/plate with a black/blue one and they're never in stock when I check and it's about $50 I don't feel like spending even if I were to find it in stock. I just make checking the nut part of my routine maintenance when I clean my gun whenever it goes to the range. Staying on top of it prevents it from becoming an actual issue so I'm fine with the trade off.
I don't stake mine. No need. A castle nut wrench is super thin, compact, and light weight, and I keep it in my maintenance/cleaning kit. I clean my rifle after every trip to the range, and part of my maintenance routine is to do a quick check on places that may become issues (why would you not do this?). Preventative maintenance is something a responsible person does, be it their rifle, vehicle, or even their home. As Ben Franklin said, "A stitch in time save nine," meaning if you catch issues early (just in time), you save yourself from having to deal with bigger issues. That said, I like to give the castle nut a little torque to make sure it's snug. No need for a torque wrench, just do it by feel; you can tell if it needs tightening. I've also experimented with different end plates. Had a mil spec one, a double sling anchor one, and the one on there now is a ambidextrous single sling anchor (kind of a U-shaped anchor that runs under the buffer tube). I'm always keeping my eyes peeled for innovative AR-15 parts, and so for me, the only part that should absolutely be staked is your gas key. Now, if your castle nut keeps coming loose, then yeah, by all means, stake it. Mine has yet to come loose, but then again I built it only two years ago, and this past year I've only ran .22LR through it using the CMMG conversion kit, because 5.56 and .223 is unobtainable right now - unless I want to pay more per round than what I can reload .303 rounds for my Enfield (I can hand load those for about $0.70/round). So yeah, maybe I just haven't run it enough for it to come loose, but still, just keep one of these handy boys in you cleaning kit. It weighs less than half an ounce: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3SWXXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I quit stakeing them, however I also use the Strike Industry extended castle nut system, that does not stake at all. On the rare gun that I don't use the SI system on, I don't bother, and have yet to see a properly torqued nut come loose.
Even at the proper torque, staking is absolutely necessary on a gun that gets shot more than 100 rounds a year. If you do any serious training it’s a necessity.
@@Murphy82nd Tell that to any Executive Protection detail or PSD team-- collapsible systems are a mainstay especially when in vehicles constantly in that type of work. If you're doing a lot of foot patrolling or are deep in the bush for extended periods of time, fixed or beefier stock systems are better for obvious reasons, but quick hitting and fast moving/ mobile details and missions may relegate otherwise or just based on the individual professional's preference. I use both depending on the detail/ situation.
Oh man had no idea, not a military guy more of a prepper but going to stake them tomorrow...for you know that hole brown in the ceiling propeller situation.
I've seen several guns loosen up even when using a full 40 ft lbs. Staking IMO is a peace of mind thing that takes the worst case scenario out of the equation
Absolutely false, and a perfect example of why you should be careful when buying "Franken ar's" people build in their garage. One of the most common issues we would have in our shop was people simply torqueing down the castle nut. No loctite. No staking. Would almost always come loose eventually. Sometimes after a hundred rounds, sometimes after a few thousand rounds. Either way, for a fighting rifle, you should NEVER rely on just torqueing the castle nut.
I don't stake it, but I would consider it if I'm not changing buffer tubes/plates ever (and I rarely do on certain guns). But I can just as easily check the nut to ensure it's still tight too. I built my rifle, I have the tools, I know how to do it, nothing stopping me from retightening it periodically If i find it coming loose.
I would like to see your way to handle putting your AR 15 together forgetting to put in the spring and buffer tube then rotating till bolt falls into buffer tube and sticking?
Great video, but I clicked on it to actually learn what STAKING is lol. And it never was explained 😂. Believe it or not, some gun owners don’t know all the lingo.
Staking is using a punch to displace metal from the end plate into a notch on the castle nut. This metal acts like a wedge to prevent the castle nut from backing out.
Rudyelf1 thank you for helping me with that. I understand it and have used a similar technique while working in a machine shop. I guess the actual term has eluded me up till this point.
dave c there was one close up at 1:22, and they vaguely mentioned having to possibly break the stake by turning it. I suppose by logical deduction a person could determine what staking actually was by the video. However, mentioning using a punch or how it’s done would’ve been helpful too. Thanks for your input.
Mine done came staked, Milspec tube with adjustable gas block. No reason to change anything so I leave it and it is still very tight after 1000+ rounds
Figure I’ll throw in my $0.02. My brother, for his sixteenth birthday, took an armorer class will Will Larson of Semper Paratus Arms. He built his own rifle and was told to stake everything he didn’t want coming off. He’s had that rifle for 4 years now, run competitions with it and has had no movement.
yeah but our shit gets thrown in and out of our unit every single day, and bumps around all the time. you carrying your AR in a rack mount in your car 12 hours every day? has nothing to do from shooting use, has to do with general use.
Mine came staked from the factory. However, when I find the configuration I like, I’ll definitely stake the castle nut. But in the meantime, I won’t while I’m tinkering and playing around with things.
TheOtherWhiteBread0 LOL! For my first one ever, I thought it a good idea. The next will be all custom! 😉
What are you tinkering with? There might be 4 buffer tube configs total. 2 of them carbine and Vltor A5 being common. What are you changing around?
@@JamesBond-ut5iv I’m considering making an AR with a folding stock. But as to which buffer tube config I want to use, I haven’t decided yet. I am only at the stage of researching uppers and lowers to determine what I like and actually want on my custom. So, not very far along at all in the process.
I'd still stake it if I was shooting it between different configurations. Don't need to stake it in more than one location. Mil Spec end plates are dirt cheap. If you use a Tango Uniform Echo Zulu castle nut when playing with many configurations, it's made with many staking locations compared to a Mil Spec, and you should never run out of them.
I haven’t staked mine and it’s used all the time. Zero issues.
I always love these videos from Brownells. They consistently keep it classy, stay reasonable, and avoid trying to manufacture controversy (unlike so many gun channels).
I never stake, however, I always use "one drop" of blue Loctite. NEVER had an issue.
Chad from sotar would be very upset with you for that 😂
Probably because you don't actually run your shit. Bring it to a weekend training course or a match and you will have issues.
@@robhegstrom9996ok zoomer
@@whiteyfisk9769 ok poor person
@@robhegstrom9996 YWNBARW
I recently bought my first AR and these series you two are putting out are very informative. And now I definitely think the coffee mug drinking synchronization is done on purpose. 😊👍🏻
And if you ever have any questions, give us a call!
@@CalebSavant
Can confirm. I called Brownells, and a nice lady answered my question about shipping ammo out of state. Defintley a company that cares about its customers.
Oh, it is for sure.
Brownells has always answered my questions, thru email or phone call. ♥️👍
I mark mine with a gold sharpie where it would normally be staked so I can see if it comes loose, and will be using blue locktite
Just stake it and be done, you'll never have to worry about it again
I’ve had one come loose on a patrol rifle. Thankfully it was during range time not in the field. On my personal rifles I go with loctite as it’s easier to change when you want to yet holds well. I’ve only been a fan of staking when nothing is going to change.
Right with you. Recently built an AR pistol - my only AR - and am still not sure I am Going to leave the set up as it is... still seeing what works for me. So 242 for now, with the plan of possibly staking it when I get to where I am sure I am done.
If Loctite works on Harleys, it will work on ARs. :-) May as well stake it though - you don't need to change the tube to change the stock.
TL Wiz: There are other things that can be done besides stocks over your tube. I have a Troy Industries quick detach sling mount which goes on before the nut; swopping something like that or adding a folding stock adapter also involves changing the tube.
Interested in knowing if it came loose due to lack of maintenance? How often did you check the nut? Did you locktight it?
I use red loctite and torque to spec for my personal rifles. I find it is as hard, and often harder, to remove than a staked one unless you apply some heat.
I’m glad you guys are doing this kind of stuff. It’s getting most people on the same page.
I am a firm believer and user of the PWS ratchet system castle nut and end plate, I have them on all my AR rifles and pistols and they've been fantastic!
Automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight is a excellent staker
Ive never staked mine. Been using the same AR in competition for 12+ years. Zero issues. I also have the PWS end plate on one of mine. Cool item.
@Chris_Gullett I've personally never had a need to do that, but I put blue loctite on a friends they AR for that same reason. No issues.
@Chris_Gullett You nailed it! No sense in staking it! Just a little pun lol but I completely agree with using loctite, staking is so 19th century!
@Chris_Gullett you don't need heat for blue
@@Adrian_Zenz as long as you use it sparingly, like your supposed to. Even then, heat will still liquify it. You can't be wrong to use heat, in any case.
@@Adrian_Zenz
What do you mean by "using heat"?
If I back my aftermarket out to add blue loctite, would it mess up the little spring under the retainer plate?
Or do you guys mean to use Blue loctite for the castle nut, and NOT the actual buffer tube assembly? (Which is dry as they came from the factory, not greased like some advise)
I plan to use a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle on the armorers wrench to 30-40 ft/lb and avoid staking so wondering if that's good enough, that's why I ask what you mean by "heat".
Everyone is saying the torque readings are accurate if using the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the armorers wrench slot for the 1/2" slot, then you always have the guy saying that the manual says to use both wrenches parallel with each other, yet others say that provides a false reading.
Hopefully you can answer these questions if you see this!
I love that PWS ratcheting end plate and castle nut. It is a really slick way to do things.
Good Lord welcome to the internet where everything is a controversy.
Great content guys. For me it depends on the gun. If the build is finished & nothing is going to be changed I stake it. If there’s a chance I’ll be making changes I’ve found loctite & marking it with a paint pen works well. If I see it start to drift I’ll tune it back up & go.
I have commitment issues, so I use blue loctite lol
Same, in fact, I just bought a Law Tac folder, so, changing things again.
And loctite is the closest you can get to staking a buffer tube on a fixed stock AR.
100%
Does loctite work well? As an alternative?
People use it on engines all the time just don't use too much of it
I use the PMS ratcheting castle nut and end plate system on all my ar platforms. Never had the problem of one coming loose.
Some buffer tubes, like ones from POF and Spike, have a groove in the top that catches the pin that engages/retains the buffer and buffer spring. That helps keep the tube from wiggling loose if you also tighten the castle nut down pretty tight. Between the two, your stock will probably not rotate loose. I'd most likely want it staked if it was a military or LE patrol rifle. But for hunting, target shooting and bimonthly practice, I don't want it staked because I'm always messing with the internals.
Psa comes standard with these as well!
I recently built a full BCM setup and didn't stake the castle nut, just wondering if ugga dugga torqueing it would be enough. I helped co instruct a class last month for Taskdev and within a few hundred rounds my buffer tube was able to rotate on its own and I had to whip out the armorers wrench mid class to re torque my build. Definitely always stake your nut.
Staking a castle nut is in the same category as sporterizing a milsurp rifle...
People need to stop making permanent modifications to rifles... that's the bottom line.
1:46 is a prime example of what I'm talking about. If there is demand, then people will make an accessory which does the equivalent of what a permanent modification would do, and the accessory would not be permanent.
Staking is not enough...definitely needs to be arc welded! LOL
CountryBoy you stole my line I was deffinately going to say WELD IT LOL.
Torque it down like a head bolt THEN weld it!!
Yes, but just hand snug the barrel nut.
@@johnstreitt2474 easy there, Hulk, you don’t want to strip it
Duct Tape
I stake the lug nuts on my car too...
Ha
I stake my gas cap
@@ragz8 lol
You plebs. I stake my ignition after I put the key in. Never lost the key again.
That's actually a pretty fair point. If your parts are quality made, and you properly torque them, you'll probably shoot out your barrel before your nut comes loose. I mean, it's 5.56/.223 ffs; not much recoil impulse to shake it loose. Maybe on an AR-10. Even if it does come loose, you'll catch it during cleaning, as you do parts checks during cleaning anyway.
I build my own and have never staked them. I did have one come loose on me at one point though. Since then I always use blue loctite and have never had a problem. Great video and topic fellas!
Good call!
I stake and loctite because I'm paranoid 😎🇺🇸
You stake because you are smart.
I never stake mine.. but.. I use the The Primary Weapon Systems Ratchet Lock so there you go.
"paranoid" sounds like a good word to use against you for a red flag law injunction...
Loctite is usually just going to potentially leak into the gun. It doesn't really do anything. Just use aeroshell grease on the threads.
@@inthego The PWS system fails all the time. I'd switch it. Swapped 2 of mine a few years back.
i did a half assed stake job, just a little over a year of use i noticed the staking mark and slot didnt line up and i could loosen the castlenut by hand. so one of my ARs did come loose and i tightened and staked all my other ARs
This has me wondering if a two nut setup would help keep things tight under use, or maybe a strong lock washer.
i got two nuts for ya.
My two nut setup has done me well over the years.
Just put some paint once its tight right top dead center where the nut meets the upper . I use red but you can use any color any time you use you can clearly see if it was shifted . Make it easy
Thats a good idea! Then you can look down and sat "yup. its coming loose! Where is the centerpunch?" :-D
@@mattfleming86 before you go to war you tighten it up like your butt cheeks....
Both Steve and Caleb look like guys you would love to work with. Rock on!
I can say that Steve is great to work with!
I fall into the used once in a while category so what I do is use some blue loc-tite on the threads and tighten down, that way I can take it off or change it with no difficulty without having to stake.
Cheap automatic center punch. Easy, fast and cheap.
AR's are not cheap to build but it's pretty cool to add on a new piece that works (ratcheting castle nut) and that includes a center punch in your gun tool box also. Even though you might have to dig a little deeper into your pockets that's the nature of this Hobby. May the 2nd Amendment be with US. 🐢😃👍
@Favrefan297 another option is a 5/32 punch from Forward Controls Design. $8.50
Thanks for intelligent conversation about both sides of the issue.
I compete with my AR15 every weekend. The SBR lower has hundreds of thousands of rounds. I never staked it, I used blue locktite and torqued to spec. It has NEVER walked out on me.
Every weekend?
Better get my hip boots on, the shit is getting deep.
@@Rubeless Last weekend was multi-gun, today is zombies, next weekend is IDPA and a steel match. Local matches. Next question.
@Michael Aylor I've never actually done the math, but I buy in bulk and cheap and way ahead of time. Buying 5k rounds at a time is pretty normal. But I tend to shoot whatever is cheapest. Depending on the match restrictions, I shoot .22LR, 9mm, 5.56, 7.62x39, 5.45, and .308 Win out of the same lower. I have shot .45 ACP and .40 S&W, but not normally since 9mm is cheaper during non-panic times anyways, for when I need to shoot pistol calibers as required; all from the same SBR lower. I just swap out uppers and at times the buffer and spring depending on caliber. I am known as the "steel cased guy" because usually the cheapest ammo is Russian steel cased import ammo. I still beat a lot of people even with cheap steel cased ammo, which is funny.
My last 5k of 9mm before the panic, I got for 13 cents per round shipped in my hands. It was some of that Monarch stuff from Academy Sports. Pretty good deal.
Beast mode on ✅
@Michael Aylor Just as an example, guys in my unit in the Army would periodically pitch in together and buy ammo in bulk by the tens of thousands of rounds to get a better deal. Some guys spend money on fancy cars, some on airplanes, some on guns, etc. I known quite a few people who would go through thousands, if not tens of thousands, of rounds per year easy.
I’m on both sides of this. I will try different stocks or braces, dependent on firearm use, till I find the one I don’t want to change out then stake it down. But during this process I have had a castle but come loose once during extensive use. So when you find the right end I believe it should be staked.
I'm ex-military too. I'm also shooting in competition I have never staked one have built many if you stake it I think you take it for granted that it's tight if you don't stake it you tend to,as a routine, to check that nut to make sure that it's tight...just my opinion. Locktite it...
after MANY builds and a LOT of use both in the Field and general shooting I just keep a wrench handy. the Loctite fix does work and You CAN remove the Castle nut if ya have to I just prefer not to.
Thank you! This is exactly my philosophy, too. Preventative maintenance and parts inspection should be part of one's cleaning routine.
My gas key is staked, but you better believe it's one of the parts I check to verify it's still working properly. I have a castle nut wrench weighing less than half an ounce in my cleaning kit, along with the tool for my Aero Precision ATLAS S-One hand guard. I check it for solid lockup. Same with my gas block and A2 muzzle break. Doesn't take but a second or two to check if things are snug (apply a dot of nail polish where two parts meet - if the dot shears, it's probably coming loose).
Enhanced buffer tubes lock up on the spring retainer preventing the rotation of the tube. the aero one i have works great.
Why not blue loctite for ones that want to switch out.
loctite is never a good idea when you are fastening a steel nut to an aluminum thread.
Loctite won't actually prevent the rotation. It just doesn't work like a state does.
You can mark a line across to visually see if it moves.
Had 3 castle nuts loosen on me through the years. Like the ratchet type End Plate/Castle Nut systems as a good compromise. It is a bit painful staking a pricier end plate or PDW system but, if you got a good buffer tube, there is seldom a reason to replace.
I bought my first AR about a year ago and it wasn’t staked but being a newbie, I had no idea. The buffer tube was loose and my retainer pin and spring got pushed out and destroyed after shooting at the range. I wish I knew about this sooner
Awesome thank you for the video !!! Staking here i come
I recently built my first AR15. I live in California, and since I wanted all the evil parts on my rifle, I had to make it with a fixed mag configuration. When testing out different parts I came across a mag lock/king pin combo that required being inserted from the left side of the firearm so every time you took the gun apart to clean it you had to remove the takedown pin and in order to reinsert it you had to loosen the castle nut and endplate to move the detent back to put the takedown pin back in. I swapped back to my old fixed mag system instantly.
Good Work! Iv'e always staked mine.
I stake mine, except for my Maxim brace which doesn't allow you to stake it & I've had that one back out on me. Ive also got one PWS ratcheting system, have yet to try it out (haven't fired the gun that has it yet since I just built it).
I had a new colt lower (factory) and it didn't come staked... say what you will about colt but it's a rare miss in my opinion. It came loose the first time I shot it and I noticed it while cleaning. Bought a PWS buffer and system and I've never had a problem since.
How about a little Blue Loctite?
Hell yeah!
Lol. No. What you want on the threads is grease. Steel on aluminum leads to galling.
@@556bc Staking is between the end plate and castle nut so no matter what the nut is not "married" to the reciever. Blue Loctute holds to the same rotational force shaking does.
Knights doesn't use tighter tolerances in these areas than other makers. Their end plate fits the same as any other.
My first AR was definitely a garage gun, and on a college student budget. Oh wait, it gets worse, it was in 300blk too. My barrel nut was hand tightened (didn't have a wrench that fit it) and my castle nut was neither staked nor loctited and was also hand tightened. Interestingly, the barrel nut never came loose from firing, but I was typically fairly gentle with it. The castle nut however DID come loose. Fast forward to my second build, bought a completed upper but still assembled the lower. This time I used a wrench (albeit not one made for a castle nut) and blue loctite, and while I don't handle this one particularly roughly either, it hasn't come loose from firing or tossing it around on an endplate mounted sling. I'd say loctite is good enough in a pinch but if you don't have a reason not to stake it, then why not? If your upper is gonna stay built, why not pin your gas block? It's the same idea.
I shoot all my ARs suppressed. So the Castle nuts always come loose. Got on my nerves and staked all of mine. Greetings from a fellow German shooting enthusiast.
Had a similar issue.
Applied a couple drops of red loctite and torqued to spec haven't had issues since then.
Idk why or If I would ever swap tubes, but I guess having the easier option to willfully remove it makes sense to me.
You are the coolest guy on earth.
Interesting to hear the perspectives
I wouldn’t mind a nice ribeye steak 🥩
Cut that off of whatever you are shooting at ha ha.
Glad I wasn't the only one who have a hankering for steak after watching the video. Kept hearing steak it, steak it, steak it.
Montreal steak seasoning by McCormick👍
I was going to shoot steak with my AR too tenderize it
Ribeye is a trash cut.
I have seen the castle nut come loose on my semi auto ar style 12 gauge, several times.
It happens occasionally on my ar 15.
It takes 5 minutes to stake the castle nut. Army manual says to have it staked in 2 places and torqued to 40 +/-2 inch pounds. Being that most end plates are aluminum, it takes literally no additional effort to remove a staked castle nut. Torque to spec, stake in 2 places...dont be a dummy.
@Jbog07 Well said.
Don’t use mine enough, I’m not an “operator” and have never had it come loose.
@Evocati Auto Insurance. Not needed. Never had an accident.
The reason this is a topic for discussion, is that castle nuts HAVE come loose. Whether at the range or in a fight for your life, its extremely annoying to discover that you can't finger tighten the castle nut enough to keep the stock from twisting off your shoulder. But some people are unable to learn from the unfortunate experiences of others. They really need to learn the hard way.
ft/lbs*
This is what I always assumed but hearing it from an expert is nice.
Thanks for watching!
I use an A1 and A2 buttstocks on my defensive firearms. On the range guns I don't bother.
Lol so you just shoulder the bare buffer tube of your range guns?
@@magnanimus9692 yup. Shoulder stocks are overrated, especially when there's a perfectly good tube that's just as good. ;)
It's true that a fixed buttstock requires no staking, as it has no castle nut
I have never staked mine. I have never had any problems. I did have a hard time getting one off when I first nbought my AR. It had been staked and red loctighted. Some heat was needed to get it to come loose. So when I put it back on I torqued it to 2 jesus and a grunt and it has never come loose. I may look into the PWS that you showed if they make one for a collapsable stock.
Blue Loctite?? Would that work?
Too modern methods....
Yes it will!
Why experiment with cost savings measures on a defensive gun? A center punch is $2 and staking takes less than 5 minutes to do right
How about both
Evocati I don’t use loctite on critical parts of the gun. I use loctite on small screws for scope mounts. That’s it. Don’t pretend to assume you know how my guns are built.
Just finished a build and was breaking the barrel in at the range trying to get a few down the pipe and in between cleaning I noticed the buffer tube was loose and at the time of the build I cranked that castle nut down and she came loose, never had that happen so I guess I will be staking even if there is a chance I will change something out. You never can tell.
Breaking through steaking to remove the castle nut is simple.
Super easy, barely an inconvenience.
@@CalebSavant quoting screen rants is tight
Caleb Savant yeah yeah yeah yeah
Yeah
Not as easy as loctite!
I usually just dremel the areas with staking and the castle nut comes right off. Usually the tube isn't damaged but if it is I could care less because obviously I was replacing it for a reason one would hope. Looking through the comments. I see a lot of grown men that like to play Barbie dress up with a rifle.
I'm on the side of staking because I believe things like a sling and depending on how you shoulder it is actually applying a small amount of torque to the screw. I actually seen someone running a single point around the butt stock and he would let it hang and twist and move around and it eventually came loose. Not sure if it was staked or if it would have ended up like that regardless.
Good input- thank you - I’m a 20 year military retiree and I believe in staking it. I understand Steve’s point, but I RARELY alter components, since my engineering background strongly suggests that design and manufacturing decisions were made for valid reasons, and I’m reluctant to modify without FULLY understanding the basis for all such decisions.
"Nyet, rifle is fine."
I was told that it was because they didn’t want soldiers messing with it in the field. But at 40 ft/lbs it won’t come off. At least that’s what I was told.
Bobby Brady But that’s the fun of AR’s , to play around with them, change things and change them back if you want. Like I heard it said, they are like adult legos.
Except a lot of the time that design reason is simply for cost or availability, not because it is the best option.
Jacob Schmoll: That’s obviously correct, BUT the design was OPTIMIZED for those constraints (such as affordability). Therefore, it is possible that the “adult lego” approach could - I am NOT suggesting it will, however, it certainly could - create inadvertent to problems.
I pick the following non-AR example because the cause and effect are very clear (and also because I don’t want to open a “can of worms”). I have a close friend (retired FBI agent), who seriously competed in the IDPA enhanced revolver division, with a four-inch barrel S&W 686 firing “light” .357 magnum loads. To increase his competitiveness, he decided to replace all the springs in his 686 with lighter ones, thereby hopefully improving his times/scores. Everything seemed to work out well, until the manufacturer of his competition loads evidently changed the primer they had used for years. The new rounds had slightly harder primers, and he began to experience more-than-rare FTFs. We talked about it, he re-installed the factory springs, and the problem disappeared.
Of course, this isn’t at all critical when the adverse results were a few poor IDPA competitive scores. BUT what if that 686 - with the new and lighter spring set - had been his duty sidearm (it wasn’t) or the weapon he often carried off-duty and kept on his nightstand (it was)? My point is good engineering practices optimize the entire SYSTEM; altering any element of that system can be perfectly fine . . . However, one needs to understand thoroughly the operating, reliability, maintainability, and durability implications before doing so.
I always stake the end plate. Lately I use the Fortis K2 ratcheting castle nut and end plate combo. Totally the best.
I have used the same AR for 15 years. Once torqued to specifications the Castle Nut won't move, no matter how much you use it.
Yip i don’t see anything staked on a race car yet its all there when done I think its the quality of workmanship and also I get the idea Americans see how far they can push their AR’s before they fall apart because I clean and check everything when im done shooting and this is something I learned in the military look after your most important tool like its your own child. Clean it tighten it and oil it. Thats my opinion. Staking not a bad thing just not end all be all.
Same rifle for 15 years? It’s not blown out?
@@shaunschneeberger6301 as a former racer and race car builder I can say that we use nylon locking nuts and lock tite on just about everything because if we didnt everything rattles loose.
@@paladin556 Adding to that, almost every nut and bolt on aircraft are wired into place.
@@afsarmstrongfiresafety7460 yes. I used to wire brake hardware.
I did weapons repair in the army on the M16A1 with just the old buffer tube. It was just torqued. As a machinist I lean towards blue loctite.
In all my years of owning AR's, I've never had a castle nut come loose.
Ricochet I have
You could also torque it and put a line of Torque Stripe from the end plate to the castle nut to indicate slippage.
I've used a permanent Loctite and make sure that I go 35 foot pounds as it's called for in the tightening of the castle nut and I've never had one come loose during competition or in the woods banging them around. What are you fellows thoughts on using a permanent type of Loctite or sealant agent along with the proper foot pounds of torque?? Thanks a bunch, Echo.
Same. I use loctite never had a problem
I did the same, put a liberal amount of loctite on the threads, torqued it to 40ft pounds. I shoot about 1000 rounds per range trip. Hasn't come loose at all and I'm a heavy user. I'd say on a full auto rifle, staking should be a concern but for semi auto loctite is enough.
On the other hand, how often does law enforcement get to actually use their patrol rifles? Unless there's a major shoot out, I'd say us Joe-publics probably use our rifles alot more just in one weekend. I'll continue to keep an eye on it but I think that castle nut is stuck on there, most of your heat will stay at the front of the receiver so that isn't much concern either.
Precisely what this guy said
Loctite is gold.
Negative. In the threads you need grease to prevent galling from steel on aluminum under torque. Then you stake it. Your experience < the experience of armorers for the mil who have seen millions of rifles since Nam.
On my first build I staked the castle nut really good. I was so proud of myself until i pulled out the rear takedown pin as it did not engage the grove. Let me just say it was a job removing the castle nut!
Lol
Well, here I go opening my mouth again...........
As far as I can tell, There was never initially any intent on the part of Stoner nor Sullivan for a collapsible stock to exist at all and, if you look at the contours and shape of the lower receiver, it was meant to accept the full length fixed stock. The first time Colt CAR 15s showed up, most people in the business (at least in NYC which had a lot of gun dealers and distributors at the time) thought "that's pretty ugly the way they did that." The rifle receiver extension is not staked at all and no one ever worries about it coming loose and the stock is held in place by a simple flat head screw which,also, rarely comes loose. So ,what's the difference?
You can twist a fixed stock all day long and, even if you broke it, it has no effect to loosen or tighten the rifle receiver extension. The CAR is a totally different story. Instead of utilizing the very substantial locating hole that the rifle stock uses, Colt came up with the "egg plate." It plugs the locating hole and substitutes a shallow key-way in an already threaded portion of a thin cross section aluminum tube. I don't think it's any secret how easy it is to twist the car stock and over ride the key-way even, sometimes while you're tightening the castle nut. At least, when they added the wire stock to the M231 port firing weapon, they utilized the locating hole in the receiver. So, in general, a threaded tube and lock nut are being used in a way that is not really a great idea. And, yes, of course, I stake them for LE and self defense use.
OMG write a book.
I use red to fuse and CRC Brakleen to dissolve the red if I need to take something off. Drop or two on set screw .. 20 minutes the red is liquified straight through. Just be sure to clean very well before reapplying red.
Breaking news there’s a new product called BLUE LOC-TiTE!
I wonder how others feel about this!
LOL. Yeah....
I use blue Loctite as well
or just grab the pws ratcheting castle nut. no need for loctite or staking.
I switched to the new Orange Loc-Tite.
I put them on hand tight with a spanner wrench. That way I can change the stock easier. But I also have 2 ARs that have their barrels on hand tight. The handguard is also the nut so there won't be any surprise loosening.
I've seen enough castle nuts come loose to know to stake mine 100%
I stake mine as that's the military recommendation. I don't plan on changing out the buffer tube, castle nut, or end plate on my AR-15 at all.
Always stake the castle nut. It was designed to be staked, so stake it if it’s not.
Of course I use an A1 fixed stock on all my rifles so I don’t really change things.
If you have a little thread left over you could always just buy a separate thinner nut and use it as a jam nut making it permanent until you want to change out the extension tube or whatever.
I stake, spot weld, red loctite, and blue loctite.
You forgot teflon tape and 5 minute epoxy!
I do three passes with my welder
Forgot cross thread
I replaced my buffer tube with a colored one and never re-staked it. Would probably be easier to just stake it, but the old stake I broke off is really close to where the new one would go. Plus I want to eventually replace the castle nut/plate with a black/blue one and they're never in stock when I check and it's about $50 I don't feel like spending even if I were to find it in stock. I just make checking the nut part of my routine maintenance when I clean my gun whenever it goes to the range. Staying on top of it prevents it from becoming an actual issue so I'm fine with the trade off.
You guys are making me hungry.
Cause they snacks? 🙄
@@brownells Nah man, it's all that talk about steaks. Makes me want a ribeye.
@@brownells Fire this guy, Brownells. He's not too bright.
I don't stake mine. No need. A castle nut wrench is super thin, compact, and light weight, and I keep it in my maintenance/cleaning kit.
I clean my rifle after every trip to the range, and part of my maintenance routine is to do a quick check on places that may become issues (why would you not do this?).
Preventative maintenance is something a responsible person does, be it their rifle, vehicle, or even their home.
As Ben Franklin said, "A stitch in time save nine," meaning if you catch issues early (just in time), you save yourself from having to deal with bigger issues. That said, I like to give the castle nut a little torque to make sure it's snug. No need for a torque wrench, just do it by feel; you can tell if it needs tightening.
I've also experimented with different end plates. Had a mil spec one, a double sling anchor one, and the one on there now is a ambidextrous single sling anchor (kind of a U-shaped anchor that runs under the buffer tube). I'm always keeping my eyes peeled for innovative AR-15 parts, and so for me, the only part that should absolutely be staked is your gas key.
Now, if your castle nut keeps coming loose, then yeah, by all means, stake it. Mine has yet to come loose, but then again I built it only two years ago, and this past year I've only ran .22LR through it using the CMMG conversion kit, because 5.56 and .223 is unobtainable right now - unless I want to pay more per round than what I can reload .303 rounds for my Enfield (I can hand load those for about $0.70/round).
So yeah, maybe I just haven't run it enough for it to come loose, but still, just keep one of these handy boys in you cleaning kit. It weighs less than half an ounce: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q3SWXXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I stake it when I'm satisfied that I'm done building that rifle, and I have everything the way I want it.
There is also loktite, less permanent but still holds as well.
Why didn't they didn't mention LockTight, they went straight to staking. In my experience LockTigh is a acceptable alternative to staking
I quit stakeing them, however I also use the Strike Industry extended castle nut system, that does not stake at all. On the rare gun that I don't use the SI system on, I don't bother, and have yet to see a properly torqued nut come loose.
Even at the proper torque, staking is absolutely necessary on a gun that gets shot more than 100 rounds a year. If you do any serious training it’s a necessity.
@@fabiangonzalez-cortes8894 2000+ rounds on 3 different builds, no stake, zero problems. Again I don't use GI castle nuts or back plates.
@@obiesunstreak2409 That's not a lot of ammo. I have that round count on one rifle.
@@fabiangonzalez-cortes8894 LOL that was per rifle, not total.
A2 stock is your answer ;P
A1 stock and locktite. Perfect length, doesn't wobble like an adjustable stock.
Jaime D yup. No armed professionals ever use collapsing stocks.
@@Murphy82nd Tell that to any Executive Protection detail or PSD team-- collapsible systems are a mainstay especially when in vehicles constantly in that type of work. If you're doing a lot of foot patrolling or are deep in the bush for extended periods of time, fixed or beefier stock systems are better for obvious reasons, but quick hitting and fast moving/ mobile details and missions may relegate otherwise or just based on the individual professional's preference. I use both depending on the detail/ situation.
Derek J. Jesus, did you really miss that my comment was pure sarcasm?
@@Murphy82nd It's the internet, being there's no inflection of tone and I can't hear you say it, yes.
Oh man had no idea, not a military guy more of a prepper but going to stake them tomorrow...for you know that hole brown in the ceiling propeller situation.
40 lbs of torque on the castle nut and it'll never come loose
That’s not true
Can I get a video on the proper placement on how to stake my castle nut ? Thanks and keep up the great work.
Great suggestion...
Actually, here is a great one!- th-cam.com/video/CkIFPhuxhIU/w-d-xo.html
Never staked any of my rifles. Torque castle nut to 40 ftlbs never will come loose!
I've seen several guns loosen up even when using a full 40 ft lbs. Staking IMO is a peace of mind thing that takes the worst case scenario out of the equation
Peace of mind goes a long way!
Absolutely false, and a perfect example of why you should be careful when buying "Franken ar's" people build in their garage.
One of the most common issues we would have in our shop was people simply torqueing down the castle nut. No loctite. No staking.
Would almost always come loose eventually. Sometimes after a hundred rounds, sometimes after a few thousand rounds. Either way, for a fighting rifle, you should NEVER rely on just torqueing the castle nut.
I don't stake it, but I would consider it if I'm not changing buffer tubes/plates ever (and I rarely do on certain guns). But I can just as easily check the nut to ensure it's still tight too. I built my rifle, I have the tools, I know how to do it, nothing stopping me from retightening it periodically If i find it coming loose.
I would like to see your way to handle putting your AR 15 together forgetting to put in the spring and buffer tube then rotating till bolt falls into buffer tube and sticking?
Great video, but I clicked on it to actually learn what STAKING is lol. And it never was explained 😂. Believe it or not, some gun owners don’t know all the lingo.
Staking is using a punch to displace metal from the end plate into a notch on the castle nut. This metal acts like a wedge to prevent the castle nut from backing out.
At 1:22 you can see where it was staked.
Rudyelf1 thank you for helping me with that. I understand it and have used a similar technique while working in a machine shop. I guess the actual term has eluded me up till this point.
Adam I saw the divot created in the castle nut after your tip of going to 1:22. Thank you my friend 👍🏼
dave c there was one close up at 1:22, and they vaguely mentioned having to possibly break the stake by turning it. I suppose by logical deduction a person could determine what staking actually was by the video. However, mentioning using a punch or how it’s done would’ve been helpful too. Thanks for your input.
Good analysis. Thanks guys. I like the ratcheting version.
Blue lock tight is good enough for now.
I don't see a reason Locktite wouldn't work.
The castle nut that came with the new buffer tube doesn't have a notch for staking, but I'm always trying out new parts so I use blue thread locker.
Stake. Ex-military. Trust me they come loose.
Easy killer
@@ViktoriousDead Easy snowflake
Cole Johnson not exactly
mine did not have the indent to stake, so I staked mine by way of thread inside the castle for the wrench... works..
You just have to ask yourself what’s at stake....
Mine done came staked, Milspec tube with adjustable gas block. No reason to change anything so I leave it and it is still very tight after 1000+ rounds
Stake it.
What's the point of staking if checking all fasteners is a regular part of your maintenance program....
Figure I’ll throw in my $0.02. My brother, for his sixteenth birthday, took an armorer class will Will Larson of Semper Paratus Arms. He built his own rifle and was told to stake everything he didn’t want coming off.
He’s had that rifle for 4 years now, run competitions with it and has had no movement.
0:36 "One of the big _turning points_ ..." Har har.
Never staked any of mine and I guarantee I shoot ALOT more than law enforcement does. I can afford ammo, they can’t...😂
yeah but our shit gets thrown in and out of our unit every single day, and bumps around all the time. you carrying your AR in a rack mount in your car 12 hours every day? has nothing to do from shooting use, has to do with general use.