When you're surrounded by yes men and go out of your way to hide yourself from the entire worlds criticism. You tend to get a fat bald head about yourself that's totally unself aware. Biggest tool in the firearms industry.
Hilarious Video. Another Ar "manufacturer" that doesn't understand their product. I guess you can have a debate about not staking a castle nut, but you don't even understand the concept of assembling an ar15. Kevin; what do you call that plate? 2:00 Answer: it's an end plate. Really, you don't know this as an Ar manufacturer? Kevin: Staking is to make sure the castle nut doesn't come loose.1:26 Answer: wrong. proper torque is the reason the castle nut remains in place. staking helps prevent rotation of the castle nut and gives the end plate some control over the castle nut to prevent rotation of the stock if the rifle is dropped. Glueing the castle nut to the receiver extension with loctite in no way does this. It can actually increases the amount of control the receiver extension has over the castle nut so that if the rifle is dropped on the stock, you increase the risk of twisting the stock. Kevin: you need to misplace steel when staking. 1:52 and throughout the video. Answer: you displace steel when staking, not misplace steel Kevin: 5:42 You are staking aluminum and steel, dissimilar metals.(i think that's what he's getting at) Answer: No your not. your staking the end plate (steel) to the castle nut (steel) and not to the receiver extension (aluminum).
@@Octavian8249you don't know what you're talking about. The castle nut is on the aluminum receiver extension. There is no steel end plate. Therefore he would be staking steel to aluminum which is why he's talking about it.
@@gregoryhines7LMAO! You wrote I don't know what I am talking about. Then you wrote the castle nut is against the aluminum receiver extension tube and there is no steel end plate. You clearly don't know anything about buffer tube installation or the parts involved. He even talked about the STEEL END plate. 😂 You move material from the steel end plate into the notches of the cadtle nut. That is staking.
@@Octavian8249 you clearly don't have a honey badger. Everything I said is correct. The OP asked why he is talking about staking steel to aluminum? And you responded with he doesn't know what he is talking about. It's clear you don't, because like I said, there is no steel end plate. It would be steel to aluminum.
@@gregoryhines7 You didn't watch the vdeo did you? There.was nothing at all memtioned in this video about a honey badger..He talks aboit stakimg a steel end plate to a castle nut. Then he swithes to talking about staking to aluminum. This circus clown is all over the place. You and others surely wont be gaining knowledge from the inbred in this video. And it's clear that knowledge is something you lack.
@@jamesstephenson2346 you are extremely unintelligent. he says multiple times that it's not possible to build a fixture to stake properly. i bet some kid could build one in his backyard
What universe do live in..There are 3 jigs on the market to hold the receiver and receiver extension straight.. Blue Lock Tite fails over and over again..If you use red, then you just destroyed the receiver extension if you need to remove the castle nut..Aluminum will get destroyed past 300 degrees and it takes 500 + degrees to break down Red loctite..Staking is simple and effective which is why they have been doing it with truck bearings for many many decades..Did that answer your question lol???
@@RichardsCraniumSorry to hear you lost your FADH..Then you didn't apply it correctly, which means it would have failed even quicker....Here is from Loctite's own web sight.. The process of knowing how to remove red thread locker is a little different than for other thread lockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 250°C (550° F). Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, some bolts threaded into tapped holes risk breaking.. I have also heard that soaking in certain solvents will work..The point is it is stupid to use any loctite on castle nuts/receivers/receiver extensions, period..
regardless of whether he invented it it is true that most manufacturers don’t do those extra steps like fixing the receiver and buffer tube while tightening.
@@willo7734 thats probably not even true. These types of jigs are commercially available and not expensive. I'm sure Bca, PSA and Anderson don't do it, but that's hardly indicative of the industry as a whole.
You know it's all gimmicks when the guy says loctite your castle nut. He's been around long enough to know full well this is a garbage solution and extremely problematic when trying to remove it. However, he caters to his target market flawlessly.
Yes sir! I bought a fixture and never looked back. You can torque them properly every time perfectly straight. I still do steak them. It’s more of a anti-vibration piece of mind for me. The torque is definitely what’s important. There’s at least 2 companies that make a fixture and one is like $40 and works pretty darn good. There’s no reason any one should be doing it on magwell block anymore.
He already has..His Law enforcement rifles he rebuilt used loctite and they were both loose lol..Red loctite is permanent and the heat needed to remove it will destroy the aluminum..
@@praharinIf it got damaged or a person decided to replace it with a different type of receiver extension, back plate, etc, then it would be impossible without destroying the tube or the lower receiver..Why do this when it is completely unnecessary? Use Areoshell grease on all threads, the back of the back plate, torque to 40ft pounds and stake in two places..If the threads are under class 2, then use VibraTite VC3 on the threads which will hold un-like loctite blue..Simple and effective..More snake oil bs is not the answer..
What the title should've said was " We don't stake our castle nuts cause it's more expensive over torquing and adding Loctite" Which is fair as a business, but I'll stick to staking.
Blue and red loctite are made for small fastener threads…. Not something about an inch in diameter. Vibratite vc-3 would be more accurate for that purpose. But apparently #engineeringandtesting lol. Hire better engineers that can read directions on bottles
I'd like to know the torque spec and what color loctite they use. Is it 40 ft-lbs or did they find another value worked better? Also, since they are going for permanent, did they go red loctite, or just blue? Also, I'll take any recommendations on a jig that holds everything in place. I think SOTAR talked about it at one point but I can't find it currently.
I'm not sure how much over spec you can torque the castle nut before some sort of problem can occur, but as long as you've got the receiver extension and receiver paired together in a jig so that neither can move while torqueing, you can get the torque pretty high. As for Loctite, I'd imagine blue would be enough. Red would be overkill, and you'd have a hell of a time ever getting it off if you ever wanted to. If you want a decent jig that doesn't cost much, I use the VISM lower receiver vise block and it works well. It locks the receiver extension in place and locks the lower in place via the pistol grip screw thread.
Seems like we have different problems. If I build an AR, I am building one AR. I could build a fixture too, but staking is a lot less trouble, and if I want it done perfectly I can (a) take a lot of time and practice, and/or (b) buy some ez-staking tool. If I do it well, the castle nut will not loosen up and I'll be able to remove it. If Kevin drops by and criticizes my work, I will cry those bitter tears when that time comes. ;-)
What? Castle nuts and end plates should be made of steel. Not sure why you’re using aluminum but that isn’t normal for them. Last thing I want to do is take a torch to my shit to get a stupid castle nut off. Staking takes like 5 seconds and is about .01% as complicated as you made it sound. Do what works for you though.
Staking works even if it’s not consistent, your method may be a better way but for the average person without a custom jig, staking will work just fine. Staking has worked well for many many people for many many years.
School of the American rifle where you at? For the home builder and armorer we don’t got that fancy shib. But enough is enough if you have the goal of it not coming loose, if it consistently doesn’t come loose then it’s consistent enough for me. Gas key and carriers are different means of staking. That sucker is a piece that takes a beating vs the castle nut. I just don’t want it to be loose. Lol sorry I am what you called me.
Problems with staking -you have to design and build an apparatus to stake, in order to not stake you must design & build an apparatus in order to torque and locktight...
I have been considering buying a Q honey badger or sugar weasel for the last few years. This video and Kevin talking finally convinced me to never buy a Q product ever.
One thing you fail to mention is class 3 threads. Its may be ok if you dont stake if your lower, castle nut and buffer tube all have class3 threads. So do they?
Should Red or Blue Loctite be used? I have an original factory Bushmaster AR whose castle nut is not staked. It looks like they clearly use a thread locker compound.
I used to use these.. If you set it and forget it, the PWS ratcheting castle nut works fine. If you remove them quite often for whatever reason, they tend to wear quickly and the 'ratcheting' feature doesn't work so well. I still have one in use, but I have not removed it in a few years. They work fine for the most part though.
“We figured out how to stake our carrier key screws consistently. For reasons I will not explain, figuring out how to apply a consistent force to a punch in order to consistently “misplace” metal in a different place is beyond our capabilities.”
Been using loctite on my castle nut for years on lots of lowers. Not one single issue. Blue loctite on buffer tube threads-let dry in proper alignment, remove stock, place rib of buffer tube in vise apply blue loctite to treads again and then tighten the shit out of castle nut done. Its aligned and its does not come loose.
How to sell a gimmick, “it’s engineering, we’re engineers here. We test it.” The firearm industry & community is right behind women’s fashion as following the fad & trend of the day.
The answer of “engineering” seems in-genuine in this case. Over engineering stuff sometimes over complicated things. Staking on the castle but is entirely unnecessary. And so it a jig to torque it
Holly shit I'm happy someone like you is saying this. I have never staked and never will. I build and F-around with so many and I thought it was just damaging parts/material. I don't use loctite, just torque, and never had one loosen up. Let me know if there's any other things that people preach about that must be done that is not the case that I have done with zero failures or complete failures hahaha!! Great videos!
Based idea here. 2350 FPS 210gr TTSX 16 inch with a .....get this........3 inch diameter Coolant jacket made out of titanium and filled with coolant.. with a pressure cooker valve... Water cooled MG....under 10 lbs...... #jumptoconclusionsmat
Kind of a loaded question. It’s a sliding scale. Do you want better sound/flash suppression or less gas through the ejection port, less wear on the system
😂what ?! Pretty sure the threads of the lower hold the buffer tube castle nut is a lock collar staking is locking the lock collar kind of like using to 2 nuts on a bolt smh 😂😂 TORQUE THE HELL OUTTA IT. Don't ever touch a vehicle shouldn't be building shiii with that logic. But good on you for getting the hits you were looking for.
40 foot pounds and stake the castle nut..Use lube on all threads to get proper torque..If the threads are under class 2 then use Vibratite VC3, not any loctite..
He didn't explain anything worth noting for those who know..Too bad those who don't know will listen to this bs..A lot of strange advice in AR world and a lot of malfunctioning weapons with clueless owners..@@asifchowdhury6526
Can't unscrew the bolt carrier key? I suspect someone will say "Challenge accepted" LOL. I like how they question the dogma of "doing things a certain way because it was always done that way" and "mil-spec" is best.
The gas key should be sealed to the carrier with Permatex gasket sealer. Kevin wasn't talking about that. He was talking about the screws that are also used to mate the gas key and carrier body. You don't Loctite those. Just proper torque and staking.
@@mysteryman33333 Larry potterfield does the loctite on the buffer tube. Ofcourse it will work. And as long as their end plates aren’t made out of 17-4ph like ol griffins for the men out there properly building guns then I give it a thumbs up.
Buuuut….q’s barrel to gas block is superior. All they do is cutting edge and taking the industry to another level. They are responsible for that. But woulda been a cooler video if they did attack the castle nut to endplate with a slick Q design utilizing a slip ring or something rather than the pws ratchet system. That would be a better video. Billy bob throwing red loctite on his buffer tube because a few “missed steaks” ( see what I did there) is what I’m seeing.
@@0Asterite0 I got it! If Q made a tapered endplate and castle nut I swear there’s an engineer out there that can make a secondary lock to take the place of a stake. But a maybe the taper will hold? Not even trolling being for real.
Also the aluminum of the buffer tube isn't getting staked so I'm not sure why you keep bringing it up lol. You're staking the steel endplate into the steel castle nut. The aluminum of the buffer tube is irrelevant
I love that SOTAR says you are wrong and then comments that KAC did it right because they use billet parts and proper torque value. It’s like he only read the title and went to social media to sell more training classes.
Loctite gaulls the threads if you ever want to change stuff. You can break the staking without messing anything up if you decide to change something. Staking is the proper way. Loctite is bull💩 for this application.
@@hairydogstail I agree. I don’t think he knows what he is talking about either. Hence the need to over compensate with so much condescending to the community. He is says to all the smooth brains out there, “If you don’t agree with me, you’re just like Jimbob and stupid”. He talks about staking into an aluminum receiver extension when you are staking a steel castle nut into a steel end plate. He seems to not understand that three points of contact do actually line up and are opposing and he is confusing the term “displace” with “misplace”. He doesn’t seem to understand that you can still overcome the staking on a gas key. That is by design so that if you need to remove it you can. Same for receiver extensions, they are not designed to be permeant because they can get bent or crushed. Staking allows you to remove it and replace it. I’m not sure based on this video, how much this guy really knows vs how much of the actual heavy lifting done at Q are from hired mech engineers.
Kevin is right my castle nut has never came off my sugar weasel. However, when i build, i do stake the castle nut just because it's simple to do, and i like doing it. It's part of the building ritual for any lower i build.
![อยู่คนเดียวกับเขา - ส้ม มารี (Zom Marie) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gq1cWAIQDLg/mqdefault.jpg)
Displaced, not misplaced. Unless, of course, you cannot find the metal after staking. Then, perhaps, it might have gotten misplaced.
Beat me to it.
Kevin seems like the type of guy that does things differently, just to be different. Not because they’re better, just because they’re different.
You’re not wrong. Same guy that complained too many BCGs on the market weren’t mil-spec, so he had Q make a non-mil-spec BCG.
When you're surrounded by yes men and go out of your way to hide yourself from the entire worlds criticism.
You tend to get a fat bald head about yourself that's totally unself aware.
Biggest tool in the firearms industry.
Keltec? 😂
You sound like a dark night on a African coconut farm.
@@CowboyWubWubif they’re going thru all the trouble to design one he wanted better* then “mil spec”
Hilarious Video. Another Ar "manufacturer" that doesn't understand their product. I guess you can have a debate about not staking a castle nut, but you don't even understand the concept of assembling an ar15.
Kevin; what do you call that plate? 2:00
Answer: it's an end plate. Really, you don't know this as an Ar manufacturer?
Kevin: Staking is to make sure the castle nut doesn't come loose.1:26
Answer: wrong. proper torque is the reason the castle nut remains in place. staking helps prevent rotation of the castle nut and gives the end plate some control over the castle nut to prevent rotation of the stock if the rifle is dropped. Glueing the castle nut to the receiver extension with loctite in no way does this. It can actually increases the amount of control the receiver extension has over the castle nut so that if the rifle is dropped on the stock, you increase the risk of twisting the stock.
Kevin: you need to misplace steel when staking. 1:52 and throughout the video.
Answer: you displace steel when staking, not misplace steel
Kevin: 5:42 You are staking aluminum and steel, dissimilar metals.(i think that's what he's getting at)
Answer: No your not. your staking the end plate (steel) to the castle nut (steel) and not to the receiver extension (aluminum).
😂😂😂 you’re 100% right about everything
He's so FOS, it's almost as if he's trolling his own audience.
Curious why he talks about staking an aluminum receiver extension? You stake the castle nut to the end plate, per spec, steel on steel.
I will give you one clue. It's bacause he has no idea what he is talking about.
@@Octavian8249you don't know what you're talking about. The castle nut is on the aluminum receiver extension. There is no steel end plate. Therefore he would be staking steel to aluminum which is why he's talking about it.
@@gregoryhines7LMAO! You wrote I don't know what I am talking about. Then you wrote the castle nut is against the aluminum receiver extension tube and there is no steel end plate. You clearly don't know anything about buffer tube installation or the parts involved. He even talked about the STEEL END plate. 😂 You move material from the steel end plate into the notches of the cadtle nut. That is staking.
@@Octavian8249 you clearly don't have a honey badger. Everything I said is correct. The OP asked why he is talking about staking steel to aluminum? And you responded with he doesn't know what he is talking about. It's clear you don't, because like I said, there is no steel end plate. It would be steel to aluminum.
@@gregoryhines7 You didn't watch the vdeo did you? There.was nothing at all memtioned in this video about a honey badger..He talks aboit stakimg a steel end plate to a castle nut. Then he swithes to talking about staking to aluminum. This circus clown is all over the place. You and others surely wont be gaining knowledge from the inbred in this video. And it's clear that knowledge is something you lack.
"We tested it, we are better, bandwagon with us." "Can you show us the testing you did?" "No"
major snake oil vibes
"Misplace"
You keep using that word. I don't think it means what you think it means...
This is an awesome comment!! IYKYK!!
my old instructor always said "loctite is a brand not a product. It's called thread locking compound"
Do you need a Kleenex for your issue?
😂😂😂 get rekt. lol, "we built a fixture to torque them but can't build a jig to stake them the same"
Not what he said. Hes claiming he doesnt HAVE to stake, not he "cant". You got rekt (btw, i dont agree with him)
@@jamesstephenson2346 1:36. for a company that claims to "engineer the umpossible" he sure can't figure out a simple problem IMO
@@jamesstephenson2346 you are extremely unintelligent. he says multiple times that it's not possible to build a fixture to stake properly. i bet some kid could build one in his backyard
What universe do live in..There are 3 jigs on the market to hold the receiver and receiver extension straight..
Blue Lock Tite fails over and over again..If you use red, then you just destroyed the receiver extension if you need to remove the castle nut..Aluminum will get destroyed past 300 degrees and it takes 500 + degrees to break down Red loctite..Staking is simple and effective which is why they have been doing it with truck bearings for many many decades..Did that answer your question lol???
No it does not LMFAO I remove red loctite well below 300f every single day.
@@RichardsCraniumSorry to hear you lost your FADH..Then you didn't apply it correctly, which means it would have failed even quicker....Here is from Loctite's own web sight.. The process of knowing how to remove red thread locker is a little different than for other thread lockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 250°C (550° F). Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, some bolts threaded into tapped holes risk breaking.. I have also heard that soaking in certain solvents will work..The point is it is stupid to use any loctite on castle nuts/receivers/receiver extensions, period..
The word you're looking for is "displace."
I control the steaking on the grill, over medium to high heat. I also prefer a good marinade over loctite.
Just like most of his "original" ideas it's like he thinks he invented the idea of a fixture to hold the buffer tube in place while torquing.
regardless of whether he invented it it is true that most manufacturers don’t do those extra steps like fixing the receiver and buffer tube while tightening.
@@willo7734 thats probably not even true. These types of jigs are commercially available and not expensive. I'm sure Bca, PSA and Anderson don't do it, but that's hardly indicative of the industry as a whole.
@@DACFalloutRangerpsa ABSOLUTELY does use a jig. And they still fuck it up
@@jamesstephenson2346 that's because they're PSA lol
Let's be honest, most of these brilliant people on the Internet have seriously over torqed their own nuts anyway!
You know it's all gimmicks when the guy says loctite your castle nut. He's been around long enough to know full well this is a garbage solution and extremely problematic when trying to remove it. However, he caters to his target market flawlessly.
LMFAO did you even watch the video. and guess what Red Loctite is Easy to remove. I do it every single day...literally tells you how on the bottle.
@@RichardsCranium put it on your buffer tube and get back to me. Science me pls. This is well known stuff my guy! 👍👊
@@mart2224Removing red loctite is no more difficult than undoing staking
@@TurboDongagain, well known stuff here. Put it on an aluminum/steel buffer tube combo then remove it after it's set. It's a great time, I promise.
Kevin is a fucking idiot, BUT removing the fucking buffer tube is regarded. NO need.
Well millions of military rifles that are staked and work compared to a few thousand located by Q I will stick with staking
It's a military requirement; that doesn't make it necessary. - Military Guy
@@Josam01 ok sure it is and it was how Eugene Stoner designed it also but you go ahead and just loctite yours 👌
@@natemel12no, it wasn't. Stoner NEVER designed it staked. Never. The mil did that. But go on pretending you know what youre talking about
@@jamesstephenson2346 ok 👍🏾
@@jamesstephenson2346 you do you boo I will continue to stake the castle nut
Yes sir! I bought a fixture and never looked back. You can torque them properly every time perfectly straight. I still do steak them. It’s more of a anti-vibration piece of mind for me. The torque is definitely what’s important. There’s at least 2 companies that make a fixture and one is like $40 and works pretty darn good. There’s no reason any one should be doing it on magwell block anymore.
Come on Jim Bob we’re going to the Krogers! 😂 love it.
I need @SchooloftheAmericanRifle to make an opposing video on this now.
He already has..His Law enforcement rifles he rebuilt used loctite and they were both loose lol..Red loctite is permanent and the heat needed to remove it will destroy the aluminum..
@@hairydogstailwhy would you need to remove it?
@@praharinIf it got damaged or a person decided to replace it with a different type of receiver extension, back plate, etc, then it would be impossible without destroying the tube or the lower receiver..Why do this when it is completely unnecessary? Use Areoshell grease on all threads, the back of the back plate, torque to 40ft pounds and stake in two places..If the threads are under class 2, then use VibraTite VC3 on the threads which will hold un-like loctite blue..Simple and effective..More snake oil bs is not the answer..
You and need to remove it if you wanted to add a stock folder such as the law tactical or Sylvan arms
What the title should've said was " We don't stake our castle nuts cause it's more expensive over torquing and adding Loctite"
Which is fair as a business, but I'll stick to staking.
Okay, I could totally be wrong, and so I'm prepared to be. Do you not mean displaced as opposed to misplaced? Perhaps it doesn't matter?
He would, if he understood what he was talking about.
He’s a bit rtarded so, he doesn’t know.
I only stake castle nuts so the Fuds at the range leave me alone. Really.
Blue and red loctite are made for small fastener threads…. Not something about an inch in diameter. Vibratite vc-3 would be more accurate for that purpose. But apparently #engineeringandtesting lol. Hire better engineers that can read directions on bottles
It's called Loctite 277
I'd like to know the torque spec and what color loctite they use. Is it 40 ft-lbs or did they find another value worked better? Also, since they are going for permanent, did they go red loctite, or just blue? Also, I'll take any recommendations on a jig that holds everything in place. I think SOTAR talked about it at one point but I can't find it currently.
I'm not sure how much over spec you can torque the castle nut before some sort of problem can occur, but as long as you've got the receiver extension and receiver paired together in a jig so that neither can move while torqueing, you can get the torque pretty high. As for Loctite, I'd imagine blue would be enough. Red would be overkill, and you'd have a hell of a time ever getting it off if you ever wanted to. If you want a decent jig that doesn't cost much, I use the VISM lower receiver vise block and it works well. It locks the receiver extension in place and locks the lower in place via the pistol grip screw thread.
Seems like we have different problems.
If I build an AR, I am building one AR.
I could build a fixture too, but staking is a lot less trouble, and if I want it done perfectly I can (a) take a lot of time and practice, and/or (b) buy some ez-staking tool.
If I do it well, the castle nut will not loosen up and I'll be able to remove it.
If Kevin drops by and criticizes my work, I will cry those bitter tears when that time comes. ;-)
It is about displacing material into the castle nut. It doesn't have to be the same every time!!! The premise of his argument is flawed.
DISPLACE Kevin, not MISPLACE
6 and a half minutes of Kevin talking about his nuts. 🥴
What?
Castle nuts and end plates should be made of steel. Not sure why you’re using aluminum but that isn’t normal for them.
Last thing I want to do is take a torch to my shit to get a stupid castle nut off. Staking takes like 5 seconds and is about .01% as complicated as you made it sound. Do what works for you though.
Staking works even if it’s not consistent, your method may be a better way but for the average person without a custom jig, staking will work just fine. Staking has worked well for many many people for many many years.
School of the American rifle where you at? For the home builder and armorer we don’t got that fancy shib. But enough is enough if you have the goal of it not coming loose, if it consistently doesn’t come loose then it’s consistent enough for me. Gas key and carriers are different means of staking. That sucker is a piece that takes a beating vs the castle nut. I just don’t want it to be loose. Lol sorry I am what you called me.
Laughing at this BS
Problems with staking -you have to design and build an apparatus to stake, in order to not stake you must design & build an apparatus in order to torque and locktight...
I have been considering buying a Q honey badger or sugar weasel for the last few years. This video and Kevin talking finally convinced me to never buy a Q product ever.
One thing you fail to mention is class 3 threads. Its may be ok if you dont stake if your lower, castle nut and buffer tube all have class3 threads. So do they?
Oh cool, gargle chads nuts some more. That regard does more harm to this industry than anyone in the modern day.
Should Red or Blue Loctite be used? I have an original factory Bushmaster AR whose castle nut is not staked. It looks like they clearly use a thread locker compound.
The only AR I put together I used a PDW stock.... And.. I had to use torque and locktite. Hearing Kevin talk about this, I have no argument.
Sounds like a shitty stock
@@kainhall Sounds like it, but designed well
wait, so you guys haven't just been red locktiting them on?
Kevin just admitted Jim Bob worked for him 😂. Also you can use an automatic center punch as a calibrated tool for staking
I use the pws ratcheting castle nut. It's easy to install and swap buffer tubes in the future.
I used to use these.. If you set it and forget it, the PWS ratcheting castle nut works fine. If you remove them quite often for whatever reason, they tend to wear quickly and the 'ratcheting' feature doesn't work so well. I still have one in use, but I have not removed it in a few years. They work fine for the most part though.
My WASR-10 doesn't even have a castle nut, and it runs great.
“We figured out how to stake our carrier key screws consistently. For reasons I will not explain, figuring out how to apply a consistent force to a punch in order to consistently “misplace” metal in a different place is beyond our capabilities.”
Sad SOTAR noises.
I think he said, misplaced just to screw with people
Having used both methods, if done correctly neither will fail.
You could literally tell all competitor manufacturers How to build “The Q Way” (Next book title goes to me🤣) and they would still F it up.
When are you going to release Tesla’s secrets?
COME ON WITH THE 8.6 blackout AR!
Been using loctite on my castle nut for years on lots of lowers. Not one single issue.
Blue loctite on buffer tube threads-let dry in proper alignment, remove stock, place rib of buffer tube in vise apply blue loctite to treads again and then tighten the shit out of castle nut done. Its aligned and its does not come loose.
BRO uses blue loctite and they fail all the time..Colt and the military has a TDP spec for a reason lol..
Reading lots of “LOL no” and almost none “this is why that’s wrong” thanks hope this this helps have a Great weekend all👌
Never staked my castle nuts either. Just torqued it and marked it with a line with paint marker to make sure it stayed in place
Sarcasm is the best teacher. You got it down pat and I love it. I vote for Kevin!
These comments are gonna be like the 8.6 thread on Hide the snipers sausage forum. KB is my hero!!!
"hide the snipers sausage" 😂🤣
12 hours later.... the comment section did not disappoint 👏 🙌. #stakedbyjoebob
Is the Q flamethrower gonna have a Q stock?
SOTAR about to choke on his Chick-fil-A if he sees this
While we are talking about steak, steak is inferior to pork ribs change my mind
I agree 100% pork over beef any day of the week
The comment section is what I came here for! IT did not disappoint. Full of Giga Chads and muh staked nutz. HAHAHAHAHAH
The problem you need to solve is how to make your guns affordable. Thanks.
Some people just wanna complain about everything
How to sell a gimmick, “it’s engineering, we’re engineers here. We test it.” The firearm industry & community is right behind women’s fashion as following the fad & trend of the day.
I know ADM doesn't as well. They use Vibra-Tite on theirs.
Same guy who said stainless steel cans were inferior. Give him a year and he’ll change his mind.
The answer of “engineering” seems in-genuine in this case. Over engineering stuff sometimes over complicated things. Staking on the castle but is entirely unnecessary. And so it a jig to torque it
Holly shit I'm happy someone like you is saying this. I have never staked and never will. I build and F-around with so many and I thought it was just damaging parts/material. I don't use loctite, just torque, and never had one loosen up. Let me know if there's any other things that people preach about that must be done that is not the case that I have done with zero failures or complete failures hahaha!! Great videos!
I’ve never seen aluminum end plate and castle nut combo
So hard to stake a steel Griffin Armament QD castle nut. BCM is fine
Based idea here.
2350 FPS 210gr TTSX 16 inch with a .....get this........3 inch diameter Coolant jacket made out of titanium and filled with coolant.. with a pressure cooker valve...
Water cooled MG....under 10 lbs......
#jumptoconclusionsmat
And class 1 threads
quick Q, are flow-through suppressors better or worse baffle system suppressors?
Kind of a loaded question. It’s a sliding scale. Do you want better sound/flash suppression or less gas through the ejection port, less wear on the system
Just get a set screw castle nut, might cost more but you literally can avoid all of this BS w/ just that.
Y’all going to make one of them there fancy high flow cans all the cool kids are talking about these days?
😂what ?! Pretty sure the threads of the lower hold the buffer tube castle nut is a lock collar staking is locking the lock collar kind of like using to 2 nuts on a bolt smh 😂😂 TORQUE THE HELL OUTTA IT. Don't ever touch a vehicle shouldn't be building shiii with that logic. But good on you for getting the hits you were looking for.
What is the torque value you use?
Q world wide
Okay that makes sense. I measure the torque and stake on my home builds but your way is also valid. BTW it’s called an end plate.
I think the word you’re looking for is displace.
Seems like a poor full of copium for not knowing how to build a rifle.
What torque value do you use? And what lcoctite, Blue?
40 foot pounds and stake the castle nut..Use lube on all threads to get proper torque..If the threads are under class 2 then use Vibratite VC3, not any loctite..
The just explained why they don't stake castle nuts tho
He didn't explain anything worth noting for those who know..Too bad those who don't know will listen to this bs..A lot of strange advice in AR world and a lot of malfunctioning weapons with clueless owners..@@asifchowdhury6526
For the Algo!
They can’t put anything on the internet that isn’t true. 🤷♂️
Q doing Q things.
smh
So I assume the torque value is a secret?
Nope, it’s in the TDP right next to the part about staking.
*displace
Can't unscrew the bolt carrier key? I suspect someone will say "Challenge accepted" LOL. I like how they question the dogma of "doing things a certain way because it was always done that way" and "mil-spec" is best.
Kevin in the comments right now *block block block him block that guy for sure block that guy lalalala I can’t hear you guys*
How can people not like this guy he’s dope af
Read the fucking room
I did always wonder about this so that’s a cool video 🤙🏻
Y'all don't loctite the carrier key? Not talking about the screws
The gas key should be sealed to the carrier with Permatex gasket sealer. Kevin wasn't talking about that. He was talking about the screws that are also used to mate the gas key and carrier body. You don't Loctite those. Just proper torque and staking.
@@mysteryman33333 Larry potterfield does the loctite on the buffer tube. Ofcourse it will work. And as long as their end plates aren’t made out of 17-4ph like ol griffins for the men out there properly building guns then I give it a thumbs up.
Buuuut….q’s barrel to gas block is superior. All they do is cutting edge and taking the industry to another level. They are responsible for that. But woulda been a cooler video if they did attack the castle nut to endplate with a slick Q design utilizing a slip ring or something rather than the pws ratchet system. That would be a better video. Billy bob throwing red loctite on his buffer tube because a few “missed steaks” ( see what I did there) is what I’m seeing.
@@C_oprator89my LMT gas block is press and pinned on. can't get much better than that.
@@0Asterite0 I got it! If Q made a tapered endplate and castle nut I swear there’s an engineer out there that can make a secondary lock to take the place of a stake. But a maybe the taper will hold? Not even trolling being for real.
My ruger 556 isn't staked
Woooooooo
Also the aluminum of the buffer tube isn't getting staked so I'm not sure why you keep bringing it up lol. You're staking the steel endplate into the steel castle nut. The aluminum of the buffer tube is irrelevant
Why is all your stuff black and white ?
They are Harkonnens on Giedi Prime
thou art the goat.
Lol no
Such a unlikable person.
Ratcheting castle nut/end plate
A one use item..
@@hairydogstail by that standard you’d buy a new ratcheting wrench every time you fasten a bolt
Not the same..The ratchet castle nut wears down every time it is loosened..Do a torque test on it if you don't believe me.. @@andysworld9298
I love that SOTAR says you are wrong and then comments that KAC did it right because they use billet parts and proper torque value. It’s like he only read the title and went to social media to sell more training classes.
KAC has class three threads so they can get away with using only torque.
☺️🇺🇸🤙🏻
Loctite gaulls the threads if you ever want to change stuff. You can break the staking without messing anything up if you decide to change something. Staking is the proper way. Loctite is bull💩 for this application.
Wow this was cringe
You could be right but your message gets lost in your condescending tone.
He's not..
@@hairydogstail I agree. I don’t think he knows what he is talking about either. Hence the need to over compensate with so much condescending to the community. He is says to all the smooth brains out there, “If you don’t agree with me, you’re just like Jimbob and stupid”. He talks about staking into an aluminum receiver extension when you are staking a steel castle nut into a steel end plate. He seems to not understand that three points of contact do actually line up and are opposing and he is confusing the term “displace” with “misplace”. He doesn’t seem to understand that you can still overcome the staking on a gas key. That is by design so that if you need to remove it you can. Same for receiver extensions, they are not designed to be permeant because they can get bent or crushed. Staking allows you to remove it and replace it. I’m not sure based on this video, how much this guy really knows vs how much of the actual heavy lifting done at Q are from hired mech engineers.
Well stated..@@SuperTrb0
That’s always been Kevin, except usually he’s wrong as well😅. Then he blocks everyone.
This is just embarrassing 🤣
aero enchanced buffer tube and lmt buffer tub...........always straight
Kevin is right my castle nut has never came off my sugar weasel. However, when i build, i do stake the castle nut just because it's simple to do, and i like doing it. It's part of the building ritual for any lower i build.