I agree - what a cool alternate use of the tool. In another video he mentions the Botach receiver extension block which looks like it could be used the same way.
I already knew most of this information but I still watch things like this because there's always something I can learn in these type of videos and you don't disappoint great video! Keep up the good work
Guess I need to break down and stake my castle nut! Been waiting until I got my bench made (should be finished today) and installed my vice. Thank you for your time and information.
Good to know in the beginning I knew I would want to change endplates. Now that I know this and have my endplates to install I will definitely be doing some staking
Thank you for all the great information you give us, I hope and pray you and your family feel better . A big thanks to your wife for when she can video for you . You still did fine !
Removed one recently, mine would not budge until I used a tiny flat head screw driver to pry out the displaced material. Then it came off easy. Good indication of how effective staking is however
The Geissele block used to be 100 bucks. The second covid kicked in it jumped to 200 bucks. Maybe something else is going on behind the scenes but once that happened I got super turned off by Geissele. I love their triggers and rails, but what the hell makes them think the reaction block is worth 200 bucks when its especially only good for milspec tubes? My opinion is save the money and get the KZ. So far it has held up just as good as the geissele and is 60-70 bucks. Just my .02.
The real trick is finding a sure fire way of the extension not clocking when tightening the castle nut. I put a stock on and try to time the extension a couple degrees past bottom dead center. Then, when tightening, I put counter force on the tube by way of pressing my torso against the stock. It will still inevitably move a bit but hopefully not more than a couple of degrees. Sometimes I can get it to dead center first try, other times it takes a couple go's at it. The LMT extension tube is the best way I have found to get around that issue. They manufacture a tongue into the threads which will pin itself against the retainer pin, not allowing the tube to rotate past center when tightening. It's a Godsend if you get frustrated with crooked receiver extensions, just wish they made A5 length.
As a machinist I can confirm. Just makes it harder to take it off. Even if you smashed some threads, depending on how hard the nut is it will just reform the threads on the way out. Now welding on the other hand...lol
I agree with some comments, like to get that reaction block. I have an older Olympic Arms "LE Carbine" . That castle nut is staked like Thor drove a spike into the end plate. I cannot get it off. I'm sure a gunsmith could but damn that's not going anywhere. Good video, thanks.
I would like to hear your opinion on a topic. I have a question about the Voltor A5 rec extension tube. I have a silencer and wanted to know if using a A5 rec extension would be beneficial or should I just use a heavier buffer and or buffer spring to slow cycling? I’m currently running a H3 buffer, standard spring, on a Daniel Defense MK18 10.3” barrel. Ejection pattern with current set up suppressed is about 2 O’clock.
I used the smallest punch + hammer and tapped the nubs back down.. It was still a pain to remove but I was able to do it with just the armorer's tool...
You should show how you properly stake the castle nut /end plate . If you have showed it in another video before which one . I’d like to see how to do it properly and I’m sure you do it with the same attention to detail you do everything else . I can’t think of a. Enter place to see it done properly
I had my hand crushed and arm injured in Houston and a few Drs I had and an imaging center I used had a corporate office that was part of Radical Firearms , was wondering if they are well known and what the quality is ? I saw the manufacturing and showroom while I was at the corporate medical office.
In auto mechanics, we stake axle nuts (they hold the drive axle in the wheel hub to transmit the rotational energy through the axles, to the hub, and to the wheels via the lugs). Just takes a little extra torque from an impact wrench to overcome the clamping force. No big deal. The purpose of staking is a mechanical method of preventing fasteners from rotating due to vibration. At least, an additional mechanical way. The primary way is proper torquing of the fastener, but there are instances in which an additional load needs to be placed on the fastener. That's when you typically use split washers (which "bind" the threads together to attempt to prevent rotation). And the chemical way to do this is thread locker. I'm no engineer though, so if the firearms engineers decided to use staking, there's a reason for it. Stick with it.
About reuse of the castle nut. Even if it did line up with the old staking position, if there was no a replacements available due to legal restrictions or end of all commerce in such items, with a dremel tool or a file or other tools new notches could be made. I know that is not the sort of gun assembly that is advocated here, but people must always be conscious of workarounds due to necessity.
My buddy has a BCM complete lower and they do some pretty aggressive staking as well. I don’t know what they use, but the dimple is square instead of round.
I hope THAT ‘timing’ of the receiver extension is not the ONLY reason he’s “destroying” the SOLG factory job. Looks perfect to me..and EVEN IF it’s slightly off, it’s SO close as not to be worth it IMO. (But It is what it is..)
I've never noticed such a thing and have never heard anyone complain about it. But sure enough, I checked my ARs and almost all of them were clocked off center. But like I said, I'd never even noticed it before and I sure as hell don't care about it now anymore than I did before lol. Just thought it was funny. What a strange thing to send your gun to an armorer for.
I gaulled the buffer tubes threads taking mine off recently because I needed to fix something stupid I did on my first build from inexperience. It all went back together ok and seems solid even though those couple threads are gone. Is this something I should worry about replacing the tube on or dont worry about it since the other threads are holding it together? I think in my inexperience I had loctited the threads and that's what caused the screw up. I'm a little more knowledgeable now after a few more builds and a lot more research but that first build is my baby
So, I am currently running a POF renegade plus. It uses a steel castle nut, but a 6061-T6 alum end plate. I staked it but was wondering if the alum is strong enough for the staking to do its job properly under somewhat harder use. Granted it is only preventing vibrating loose, am I over thinking it?
Making a castle nut permanent is why Red Loctite was invented. Just stay arm's reach plus 3 feet away from a gunsmith or armorer when they try to remove it for some reason. Better yet, don't even be in the same building. The best staking tool is the Tango Uniform you demonstrated from Echo Zulu. Proper torqueing to 40 ft-lb is the first step to keeping a castle nut secure.
During assembly, if the extension is Canted like that , would backing the nut off and rotating the receiver counterclockwise and re tightening, would that work? Or am I thinking incorrectly?
Is there a reason to replace the buffer tube periodically? I have a lower with 8k rounds I replaced the bolt catch, the mag release and the fcg. Just curious.
@@m118lr It's a great wrench. I would say overpriced for sure. You can often find them at a very deep discount. I would never pay MSRP on one. There are other options that are just as good or better for less.
I got a little tactical sling attachment that I was going to take and remove the buffer tube and install on my rifle but then I discovered that the same thing could be done using a clamp so I'm just going to go with the clamp I don't really see any reason to be disassembling my rifle any further right now I don't have some of the stuff I need to do it anyway so why do it
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
I can appreciate one's meticulous attention to detail but I have ran my ARs to the ground without issue. The only issue is that I am too lazy to clean my own weapon and if a malfunction happens, well - thank the training
I will lay the case for staking, but I’m done arguing with the “good enough” or “works for me” people who will argue against staking. The loctite guys are great as well. That may keep the castle nut in place, but it doesn’t stop the receiver extension from loosening with it.
Sometimes locktite has it's place. On my pistol build, my wrench wouldn't fit over the tube. I had to use a single lug spanner wrench that I couldn't use the torque wrench with. The tube is cut out for the buffer retainer, so if it rotates, it's only going to move a degree or two. So locktite there will be fine to hold the castle nut. She's still tight at 500 rounds. In life, many times you do what you have to do, not what you'd like to do. In GW I, I had to replace takedown pin detents with filed down pieces of coat hanger, as I couldn't get parts through the supply line. They worked very well, and survived until after the war, when I finally received my parts. It wasn't what I'd like, but it was what I had to do!
Just my luck , so sad. I was also needing guidance on keeping the extension buffer tube straight. When i tighten to 40 lbs. it seems to always get clocked a little past clockwise even with the groove in the retainer plate aligned perfect with the buffer extension tube. Wondering if you had a video on this or if the Geissele block would come into play? Thanks, and Absolutely love the attention to detail.
Good video and I am not really surprised at all seeing as the castle nuts are aluminum... I have never staked any of my builds and never had one come loose yet
I guess every one has their own experience. I had a rifle that I replaced the end plate on, so I could use a single point sling. I tightened the buffer tube and castle nut down, and did not stake it. First rifle class I went to, later that year, within 600 rounds the buffer tube was loose. Didn't cause any jams or malfunctions, and I caught it before the buffer retaining pin disappeared, but did mean the stock was loose. When I got home from the class, I re-torqued the castle nut, and made sure the stock was clocked correctly, and staked the nut in two places. The next year, I was able to attend a patrol carbine class, same rifle. No issues with the castle nut getting loose. I'm a believer now, and will just treat end plates as disposable- since they're cheap enough and I don't remove the buffer tube often. Or, since I made the changes to my rifle that I wanted, at all.
For a mere $188 you can get the proper tool to make that square staking. Look up HK Buffer Staking Tool online, and you will find it. Yes, I made the leap and made the purchase. Everybody wants to produce the staking quality I do ...until they see the price. With the HK tool in hand, it is possible to field fabricate the staking tool. I made an impact staking hammer press and a support fixture to get the staking perfect. I used the copycat die to properly time the staking to always be square.
I am happy with the HK staking punch. The price was steep, but I like the look of the square staking. The HK staking punch does NOT work with the steel Magpul ASAP receiver end plate. It is too hard. I probably shouldn't say this, but it is the truth. I use the Geissele receiver tube reaction block when tightening the castle nut to 40 ft-lb. I loosen the castle nut and torque it, again. I don't stake the receiver end plate, unless someone asks me to. I am OK with someone staking it or not. The torque really matters, and anodized aluminum threads are weird the first time the theeads mate. I hope this helps.
If you want to field fabricate your own HK style staking punch, the dimensions are 0.116" by 0.074" with a beveled cut on the 0.074" face to help displace material into the castellation while keeping the punch vertical (in a jig or by hand). A donor punch, like the nail set or some air hardening drill rod both work well. I hope that the dimensions help.
I'm curious; is there any real advantage or need for staking the castle nut? Excellent video, btw. Concise, to the point, and very clear in message delivery.
Staking helps make absolutely sure your castle nut does not come loose, which is common on ARs without a staked nut. However diligent re-tightening also works fine as well, not staking can also be advantageous if you replace and mess with parts alot.
I've always found it interesting that people say to always stake the castle nut for fear of it coming loose and yet the only ones I've ever seen come loose were staked. they were also terribly abused but that isn't the point.
I just got done installing an Vltor A5 on my truck gun and did some really nice looking staking to it. It's actually fairly easy. This was only my second time and everyone says it looks perfect.
@@HolyShitAccess Have dozens of build & have never staked them with no problems. I put locktite on a couple of my 1st builds but don't even do that anymore.
@@11C1P That's why I'm curious. The castle nut is functionally a jam nut, jam nuts are used to lock fasteners in lieu of other methods. Doubling up on locking methods seems...odd.
As soon as I saw you bump that geissele reaction block up against the wrench I decided I wanted one. Genius!
I just use any ar stock to a similar effect
I agree - what a cool alternate use of the tool. In another video he mentions the Botach receiver extension block which looks like it could be used the same way.
The "Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce" gave him the power to bust the staking loose!
I hope your wife feels better soon.
“Staked castle nuts are not permanent”
It’s sad many don’t know this 🤦♂️
Maybe they just say that to have an excuse to buy another lower ;)
I already knew most of this information but I still watch things like this because there's always something I can learn in these type of videos and you don't disappoint great video! Keep up the good work
I genuinely found this helpful, because I was wondering how easy it would be. Thanks.
thank you for your time and content; god bless you and your family and loved ones, you are a blessing to the 2A community sir.
As an amateur in AR's. your channel has been by far the most helpful. Thank you Sir.
I'm learning very nicely from your tricks. Thank you very much.
Guess I need to break down and stake my castle nut! Been waiting until I got my bench made (should be finished today) and installed my vice. Thank you for your time and information.
It's just extra insurance that it won't loosen during the vibration of shooting.
BCM does a awesome job staking as well.
Agree
Sturmgewehr556 you are correct
Agree and its bitch to break off.
Poor guy sounds like he has the Covid ... Needs a shot of "antiseptic". . Aged in oak....
D.A. Risse aged in oak 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
New to your videos and loving it buddy. Castle nut is the first thing I grab when someone says "my rifle feels kinda loose"
I've been watching your videos all day and that is the second one from SOA that has been clocked off to the side.
Good to know in the beginning I knew I would want to change endplates.
Now that I know this and have my endplates to install I will definitely be doing some staking
Thank you for all the great information you give us, I hope and pray you and your family feel better .
A big thanks to your wife for when she can video for you . You still did fine !
Thanks William
you scratched the shit out of the buffer tube. im sure the owner will be pissed about that.
Thank you! Happy Holidays!
Removed one recently, mine would not budge until I used a tiny flat head screw driver to pry out the displaced material. Then it came off easy. Good indication of how effective staking is however
I really want one of those Geissele reaction blocks, but the $200 price tag is ridiculous.
Is that Corona price hike or was it always that much? I cheap-ed out on a 'Reaction Rod-like' tool from Brownells.
A LOT of stuff from Geissele is WAY OVER-priced
I am not sure if it is the covid price, or the reaction block is twice as good as a couple years back. I paid $99 for it a few years back.
The Geissele block used to be 100 bucks. The second covid kicked in it jumped to 200 bucks. Maybe something else is going on behind the scenes but once that happened I got super turned off by Geissele. I love their triggers and rails, but what the hell makes them think the reaction block is worth 200 bucks when its especially only good for milspec tubes? My opinion is save the money and get the KZ. So far it has held up just as good as the geissele and is 60-70 bucks. Just my .02.
@@m118lr especially their magazines and trigger assemblies
I always learn something! Thank you sir.
Thank you for explaining this: it cleared up a lot of confusion on my part.
The real trick is finding a sure fire way of the extension not clocking when tightening the castle nut. I put a stock on and try to time the extension a couple degrees past bottom dead center. Then, when tightening, I put counter force on the tube by way of pressing my torso against the stock. It will still inevitably move a bit but hopefully not more than a couple of degrees. Sometimes I can get it to dead center first try, other times it takes a couple go's at it. The LMT extension tube is the best way I have found to get around that issue. They manufacture a tongue into the threads which will pin itself against the retainer pin, not allowing the tube to rotate past center when tightening. It's a Godsend if you get frustrated with crooked receiver extensions, just wish they made A5 length.
Thanks for teaching us!
Absolutely LOVE Forward Controls Design
Awesome video. Would love to see you do a buffer tube install and staking video. I had issues getting them perfectly straight too.
Great information!!!
Good video.
Hand staker here. I always stake 'em.
As a machinist I can confirm. Just makes it harder to take it off.
Even if you smashed some threads, depending on how hard the nut is it will just reform the threads on the way out.
Now welding on the other hand...lol
Appreciate this video brother
Subbed just for the Sriracha!!!! love the content.
Good know along with a few other hundred things you have shown! Thanks.
I agree with some comments, like to get that reaction block. I have an older Olympic Arms "LE Carbine" . That castle nut is staked like Thor drove a spike into the end plate. I cannot get it off. I'm sure a gunsmith could but damn that's not going anywhere. Good video, thanks.
love your videos! Blows my mind, however, that someone would drop their firearm off with someone for this kind of basic work.
Great video, thanks
Thank you Sir
You got a lot of cool videos and tools
Awesome to know, thanks man
I'd like to see a video of the tools you use, brand and where to get them!
He has done countless videos on his tool collection.... quite a few are custom tho
I would like to hear your opinion on a topic. I have a question about the Voltor A5 rec extension tube. I have a silencer and wanted to know if using a A5 rec extension would be beneficial or should I just use a heavier buffer and or buffer spring to slow cycling? I’m currently running a H3 buffer, standard spring, on a Daniel Defense MK18 10.3” barrel. Ejection pattern with current set up suppressed is about 2 O’clock.
Nice brother 👌
What's even easier is a ratcheting castle nut, on off, on off, no muss, no fuss.
Leverage is an amazing thing.
I used the smallest punch + hammer and tapped the nubs back down.. It was still a pain to remove but I was able to do it with just the armorer's tool...
Great info Sir, thanks! I want to get a good wrench. Which one are you using in this video?
great content awesome info: I like the aesthetics of that castle nut do you know if it is a SOLGW castle nut? or different a brand?
dang, i wanna 3d print something like the reaction block now. I always slip off the castle nut ahha
Check out the Forward Controls Design JCW, it has a lip which sits over the edge of the castle nut to help prevent the wrench teeth from jumping.
You should show how you properly stake the castle nut /end plate . If you have showed it in another video before which one . I’d like to see how to do it properly and I’m sure you do it with the same attention to detail you do everything else . I can’t think of a. Enter place to see it done properly
I will in a separate video. I'll show several tools and methods.
Thanks for the reply’s. Keep up the great videos
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle you still gonna do this?
@@xCaPz yes. Thank you for the reminder
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle No problem, would love to see how you do it. I almost have all the parts to build my first AR.
I had my hand crushed and arm injured in Houston and a few Drs I had and an imaging center I used had a corporate office that was part of Radical Firearms , was wondering if they are well known and what the quality is ? I saw the manufacturing and showroom while I was at the corporate medical office.
My Geissele super duty has amazing staking, best ive seen this far.
Great video
Hot sauce is critical, no shop should be without it.
In auto mechanics, we stake axle nuts (they hold the drive axle in the wheel hub to transmit the rotational energy through the axles, to the hub, and to the wheels via the lugs). Just takes a little extra torque from an impact wrench to overcome the clamping force. No big deal.
The purpose of staking is a mechanical method of preventing fasteners from rotating due to vibration. At least, an additional mechanical way. The primary way is proper torquing of the fastener, but there are instances in which an additional load needs to be placed on the fastener. That's when you typically use split washers (which "bind" the threads together to attempt to prevent rotation). And the chemical way to do this is thread locker.
I'm no engineer though, so if the firearms engineers decided to use staking, there's a reason for it. Stick with it.
I never seen a staked castle nut on any vehicle. They always use Kotter pins through them.
About reuse of the castle nut. Even if it did line up with the old staking position, if there was no a replacements available due to legal restrictions or end of all commerce in such items, with a dremel tool or a file or other tools new notches could be made. I know that is not the sort of gun assembly that is advocated here, but people must always be conscious of workarounds due to necessity.
My Stag castle nut looks exactly like that. Double staked.
My buddy has a BCM complete lower and they do some pretty aggressive staking as well. I don’t know what they use, but the dimple is square instead of round.
I hope THAT ‘timing’ of the receiver extension is not the ONLY reason he’s “destroying” the SOLG factory job. Looks perfect to me..and EVEN IF it’s slightly off, it’s SO close as not to be worth it IMO. (But It is what it is..)
I've never noticed such a thing and have never heard anyone complain about it. But sure enough, I checked my ARs and almost all of them were clocked off center. But like I said, I'd never even noticed it before and I sure as hell don't care about it now anymore than I did before lol. Just thought it was funny. What a strange thing to send your gun to an armorer for.
I gaulled the buffer tubes threads taking mine off recently because I needed to fix something stupid I did on my first build from inexperience. It all went back together ok and seems solid even though those couple threads are gone. Is this something I should worry about replacing the tube on or dont worry about it since the other threads are holding it together? I think in my inexperience I had loctited the threads and that's what caused the screw up. I'm a little more knowledgeable now after a few more builds and a lot more research but that first build is my baby
So, I am currently running a POF renegade plus. It uses a steel castle nut, but a 6061-T6 alum end plate. I staked it but was wondering if the alum is strong enough for the staking to do its job properly under somewhat harder use. Granted it is only preventing vibrating loose, am I over thinking it?
yeah my DD castle nut was staked in 2 spots and was easy to get off
Making a castle nut permanent is why Red Loctite was invented. Just stay arm's reach plus 3 feet away from a gunsmith or armorer when they try to remove it for some reason. Better yet, don't even be in the same building. The best staking tool is the Tango Uniform you demonstrated from Echo Zulu. Proper torqueing to 40 ft-lb is the first step to keeping a castle nut secure.
Just takes a little more elbow grease to get the nut loose. It wont come loose from normal use
During assembly, if the extension is Canted like that , would backing the nut off and rotating the receiver counterclockwise and re tightening, would that work? Or am I thinking incorrectly?
You are correct.
I’m loving how consistent you are with dropping videos lately. You still did a good job without your wife 👍. Keep up the good work!
That staking was beautiful. I wept.
...and I thought I was o.c.d. 😅
Is there a reason to replace the buffer tube periodically? I have a lower with 8k rounds I replaced the bolt catch, the mag release and the fcg. Just curious.
I like that armorer's wrench. With the Magpul wrench you have to remove the stock.
Agreed. The Magpul wrench was (IS in my case) waaaay over-hyped...
@@m118lr It's a great wrench. I would say overpriced for sure. You can often find them at a very deep discount. I would never pay MSRP on one. There are other options that are just as good or better for less.
What wrench is he using?
He's using a Tapco brand wrench here.
@@EarthAltar Magpul wrenches also don't fit pistol tubes.
That's why I always stake my castle nut with loctite.
What brand Magazine well Block is that, looks Adjustable for Fit.
Now let’s see your staking 🙏👍
What bolt catch is on this lower? Does the wider "Paddle" cause any type of problem?
I got a little tactical sling attachment that I was going to take and remove the buffer tube and install on my rifle but then I discovered that the same thing could be done using a clamp so I'm just going to go with the clamp I don't really see any reason to be disassembling my rifle any further right now I don't have some of the stuff I need to do it anyway so why do it
Just took mine off a brand new DB15 without a vice grip like you've got... had to use a hammer and some Ju Jitsu tactics. Let me say, i'm proud to be American.
I can appreciate one's meticulous attention to detail but I have ran my ARs to the ground without issue. The only issue is that I am too lazy to clean my own weapon and if a malfunction happens, well - thank the training
Can you show us in a video how to do the buffer tube alignment , i been having trouble with my buffer tubes that are not straight
How do you get the recieve extension and stock perfectly straight ? When you tighten everything back up?
He made a video for that too.
Clocked is an interesting term.
Have you tried the PWS Ratchet Castle nut and End plate before?
Don't. It's designed for a SINGLE USE not on and off.
Sooo am i hearing slight bit of blue lock tight to help make it a more temp permanent torqued castle nut?
🦆 Gang
Quack
Quack
The factory staking on my IWI ZION looks identical to that.
Permeance is an illusion, nothing is permanent in life.
Ive used loctite on a castlenut in the past. Is the loctite going to cause issues in the long run?
I have often wondered why they did not make a sacrificial washer like on jeep hubs? Fold it down, nut locked in tight.
I will lay the case for staking, but I’m done arguing with the “good enough” or “works for me” people who will argue against staking. The loctite guys are great as well. That may keep the castle nut in place, but it doesn’t stop the receiver extension from loosening with it.
Sometimes locktite has it's place. On my pistol build, my wrench wouldn't fit over the tube. I had to use a single lug spanner wrench that I couldn't use the torque wrench with. The tube is cut out for the buffer retainer, so if it rotates, it's only going to move a degree or two. So locktite there will be fine to hold the castle nut. She's still tight at 500 rounds.
In life, many times you do what you have to do, not what you'd like to do. In GW I, I had to replace takedown pin detents with filed down pieces of coat hanger, as I couldn't get parts through the supply line. They worked very well, and survived until after the war, when I finally received my parts. It wasn't what I'd like, but it was what I had to do!
Who makes the armorers tool you used in the video? I have the magpul but i can see the advantages of this one as someone else noted.
Tapco. Unfortunately they are discontinued.
Just my luck , so sad. I was also needing guidance on keeping the extension buffer tube straight. When i tighten to 40 lbs. it seems to always get clocked a little past clockwise even with the groove in the retainer plate aligned perfect with the buffer extension tube. Wondering if you had a video on this or if the Geissele block would come into play? Thanks, and Absolutely love the attention to detail.
Good video and I am not really surprised at all seeing as the castle nuts are aluminum...
I have never staked any of my builds and never had one come loose yet
I guess every one has their own experience. I had a rifle that I replaced the end plate on, so I could use a single point sling.
I tightened the buffer tube and castle nut down, and did not stake it. First rifle class I went to, later that year, within 600 rounds the buffer tube was loose.
Didn't cause any jams or malfunctions, and I caught it before the buffer retaining pin disappeared, but did mean the stock was loose.
When I got home from the class, I re-torqued the castle nut, and made sure the stock was clocked correctly, and staked the nut in two places.
The next year, I was able to attend a patrol carbine class, same rifle. No issues with the castle nut getting loose.
I'm a believer now, and will just treat end plates as disposable- since they're cheap enough and I don't remove the buffer tube often. Or, since I made the changes to my rifle that I wanted, at all.
Been building AR's since 1980 and never staked one yet.
If you ever made a jig for replicating the square staking Colt and BCM use, you'd forever be my hero.
For a mere $188 you can get the proper tool to make that square staking. Look up HK Buffer Staking Tool online, and you will find it.
Yes, I made the leap and made the purchase. Everybody wants to produce the staking quality I do ...until they see the price.
With the HK tool in hand, it is possible to field fabricate the staking tool.
I made an impact staking hammer press and a support fixture to get the staking perfect. I used the copycat die to properly time the staking to always be square.
@@johnphillips222 Are you happy with your purchase?
I am happy with the HK staking punch. The price was steep, but I like the look of the square staking.
The HK staking punch does NOT work with the steel Magpul ASAP receiver end plate. It is too hard.
I probably shouldn't say this, but it is the truth. I use the Geissele receiver tube reaction block when tightening the castle nut to 40 ft-lb. I loosen the castle nut and torque it, again. I don't stake the receiver end plate, unless someone asks me to. I am OK with someone staking it or not. The torque really matters, and anodized aluminum threads are weird the first time the theeads mate.
I hope this helps.
If you want to field fabricate your own HK style staking punch, the dimensions are 0.116" by 0.074" with a beveled cut on the 0.074" face to help displace material into the castellation while keeping the punch vertical (in a jig or by hand).
A donor punch, like the nail set or some air hardening drill rod both work well.
I hope that the dimensions help.
@@johnphillips222 Thanks! I'll definitely be making one.
I’m new to this so forgive my ignorance. Why is staking better than Loctite?
I'm curious; is there any real advantage or need for staking the castle nut?
Excellent video, btw. Concise, to the point, and very clear in message delivery.
Staking helps make absolutely sure your castle nut does not come loose, which is common on ARs without a staked nut. However diligent re-tightening also works fine as well, not staking can also be advantageous if you replace and mess with parts alot.
@@Daizenzetsu thank you.
That amount of leverage far exceeds anything that would make that nut come loose because of use.
usefull video, now I really feel like eating steak
I'm the caveman that breaks staking. Just ask my ball joints.
I've always found it interesting that people say to always stake the castle nut for fear of it coming loose and yet the only ones I've ever seen come loose were staked. they were also terribly abused but that isn't the point.
I just got done installing an Vltor A5 on my truck gun and did some really nice looking staking to it. It's actually fairly easy. This was only my second time and everyone says it looks perfect.
What did you use to do it? The special tool or a punch?
Do you have an opinion on Primary Weapon's ratchet castle nut?
What’s your thoughts on the ratcheting castle nuts/end plates?
solution to problem that doesn't exist.
what's the difference in breakaway torque between a staked castle nut and an unstaked castle nut?
@@HolyShitAccess Have dozens of build & have never staked them with no problems. I put locktite on a couple of my 1st builds but don't even do that anymore.
@@11C1P That's why I'm curious. The castle nut is functionally a jam nut, jam nuts are used to lock fasteners in lieu of other methods. Doubling up on locking methods seems...odd.
Who makes that mag well block you're using?