If it is like mine, most every gasket was bad as well. I’ve made quite a few videos for the channel from my Escalade for sure, lol ! All the best ! Steve
great video....do you have a video of the noise before and after the repair was completed. I have been chasing ticking for a while...now...already replace lifters and Oil Pump Oring and I still have a loud tick on cold start and during acceleration
Hello, I actually didn’t do a video of before and after (I should have in thinking about it for sure), but the manifold leaks did sound exactly like bad top end noise. For mine, when I looked at the manifolds, several bolts were broken so I was pretty sure that was the noise...especially since it would go away once the motor warmed up and the metal expanded. Mine doesn’t make any noise though when accelerating (after the motor warms up).
Did you have any codes? I have a stubborn p1175 that goes on & off. Plus I have an exhaust leak from the flange even after installing a brand new oem manifold
Hey ! It actually wasn’t throwing any codes…just had a terrible exhaust leak from the manifold that sounded like the motor was coming apart, lol. I have had the p1175 code pop up before though. Fortunately it was just dirty injectors from some bad fuel so a couple of bottles of injector cleaner made it happy again.
Thanks for the comment...helps others know it's an option not to remove the manifold for sure ! I had some broken manifold bolts so my had to come off, but if it isn't necessary to get the motor mount off this is great to know.
Thanks ! Yep, some of these DIY’s do take some patience for sure. Good thing I can turn the camera off and edit the video before posting or most of them would have to have a “Strong Language” warning at the beginning, lol. All the best ! Steve.
@@airborneleads1981 , hey again ! I actually did change my fronts and rears out from some aftermarket shocks (got rid of the auto ride on the front as mine had a bad vibration ). The videos are out on my channel under the Escalade DIYs Playlist if you wanted to have a look 👍
Hello, I ended up having to take a nut and weld it into the broken bolt to get it out as it was flush to the block surface and there was no way to get a grip on it. I just used my small wire feed MIG welder and welded the bolt end to the inside of the nut and then I could back it out with a wrench. Not much fun at all when the bolts are broken for sure ☹️
Hello, it’s been quite a while since I did the manifold gasket and motor mount so I’m not really sure. It didn’t seem like it gave too much trouble and if I remember right it was held on by the bracket and once unbolted, it will pull upward. Sorry I couldn’t be much help...I’m sure you’ll get it figured out though if you’ve made it that far into the repair 👍. All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs I was able to figure it out. It looked like it was hard molded into engine but it pulled right out. Looks like it will slide right back in and secured with that bracket. Thank you for the response. Next up, transmission and rear main seal replacement.
@@mchockeyplayer25 👍 cool ! Glad you got it 👍. Hopefully the rest of the repairs go good too...it’s a bit of work to take it all off to fix all of these seals and rubber parts, but it sure is nice to not have it making drip spots all over my garage floor 😀. All the best ! Steve
Darren Hattingh , hello...thanks! I only had to lift the motor up about 3/4” or so on the passenger side so the pin that’s in the middle of the mount would come out of the hole in the frame. The driver side mount flexes that much on its rubber so there was no need to loosen it or anything. I started by just supporting the engine with tension on the lift bridge to remove the mount bolts, then slowly raised it up and checked few times to see if I could remove it until it was finally up enough. After replacing, I then lowered back down till it touched and bolted it back up so the holes would line up easier. Hope this helps 👍
Easy like adding oil killed me😭😭✌🏻
🤣
Looking at buying 1 of these today I'm hoping this what's wrong with it..ik 1mount is bad for sure
If it is like mine, most every gasket was bad as well. I’ve made quite a few videos for the channel from my Escalade for sure, lol ! All the best ! Steve
great video....do you have a video of the noise before and after the repair was completed. I have been chasing ticking for a while...now...already replace lifters and Oil Pump Oring and I still have a loud tick on cold start and during acceleration
Hello, I actually didn’t do a video of before and after (I should have in thinking about it for sure), but the manifold leaks did sound exactly like bad top end noise. For mine, when I looked at the manifolds, several bolts were broken so I was pretty sure that was the noise...especially since it would go away once the motor warmed up and the metal expanded. Mine doesn’t make any noise though when accelerating (after the motor warms up).
Did you have any codes? I have a stubborn p1175 that goes on & off. Plus I have an exhaust leak from the flange even after installing a brand new oem manifold
Hey ! It actually wasn’t throwing any codes…just had a terrible exhaust leak from the manifold that sounded like the motor was coming apart, lol. I have had the p1175 code pop up before though. Fortunately it was just dirty injectors from some bad fuel so a couple of bottles of injector cleaner made it happy again.
Show how you got broken bolt out. Also how did you get the good manifold bolts
I replaced my (2013 GMC Sierra) passenger mount without removing the manifold or heat shield. Difficult but not impossible. Thanks for video
Thanks for the comment...helps others know it's an option not to remove the manifold for sure ! I had some broken manifold bolts so my had to come off, but if it isn't necessary to get the motor mount off this is great to know.
You got a lot of patience.
Thanks ! Yep, some of these DIY’s do take some patience for sure. Good thing I can turn the camera off and edit the video before posting or most of them would have to have a “Strong Language” warning at the beginning, lol. All the best ! Steve.
@@StevesDIYs hey you got any advice on front and rear shocks (electronic/ auto ride) other than OEM, maybe a website ?
@@airborneleads1981 , hey again ! I actually did change my fronts and rears out from some aftermarket shocks (got rid of the auto ride on the front as mine had a bad vibration ). The videos are out on my channel under the Escalade DIYs Playlist if you wanted to have a look 👍
What did you use to extract the bolt having the same issue
Hello, I ended up having to take a nut and weld it into the broken bolt to get it out as it was flush to the block surface and there was no way to get a grip on it. I just used my small wire feed MIG welder and welded the bolt end to the inside of the nut and then I could back it out with a wrench. Not much fun at all when the bolts are broken for sure ☹️
Hey. Currently doing this project. i can't seem to get the dip stick tube out of the way. How did you go about do that?
Hello, it’s been quite a while since I did the manifold gasket and motor mount so I’m not really sure. It didn’t seem like it gave too much trouble and if I remember right it was held on by the bracket and once unbolted, it will pull upward. Sorry I couldn’t be much help...I’m sure you’ll get it figured out though if you’ve made it that far into the repair 👍. All the best, Steve
@@StevesDIYs I was able to figure it out. It looked like it was hard molded into engine but it pulled right out. Looks like it will slide right back in and secured with that bracket. Thank you for the response. Next up, transmission and rear main seal replacement.
@@mchockeyplayer25 👍 cool ! Glad you got it 👍. Hopefully the rest of the repairs go good too...it’s a bit of work to take it all off to fix all of these seals and rubber parts, but it sure is nice to not have it making drip spots all over my garage floor 😀. All the best ! Steve
Did you need to lift the engine up at all? Great video!
Darren Hattingh , hello...thanks! I only had to lift the motor up about 3/4” or so on the passenger side so the pin that’s in the middle of the mount would come out of the hole in the frame. The driver side mount flexes that much on its rubber so there was no need to loosen it or anything. I started by just supporting the engine with tension on the lift bridge to remove the mount bolts, then slowly raised it up and checked few times to see if I could remove it until it was finally up enough. After replacing, I then lowered back down till it touched and bolted it back up so the holes would line up easier. Hope this helps 👍
Thankyou sir 🤙🏻