your upper and lower horizontal frame boards should be on top of your vertical framing board to prevent water from entering the end grain of the board not between them.
Good. It looks like the way your doors overlap below floor level that they will keep out the mice, at least from entering there. I can't tell if the other gaps are small enough to prevent mice entry but it looks hopeful. I hear that mice can usually squeeze through a 1/4" gap. Frankly I'm tired of mice and the shed I am building now is for once going to keep them out.
I found your videos very helpful and well done, it's by far one of the best shed videos on TH-cam. I have a question, I am working on my shed doors right now and I am wondering if the right door need to be 1/2 shorter to overlap the left door. Is that correct? Are there a different measurement for the left and right door or are both exactly the same?
Thank you, I appreciate that! The 2x4 door frames are 1/2" difference in width. Looking at the front of the shed the left door frame is 1/2" wider than the right door frame. The door skins are exactly the same width so the doors appear to be the same width from the front when the doors are closed. This makes the door frame on the left door protrude 1/2" past the skin and that creates the backing for the right door to close against. The skin on the right door extends 1/2" past that door frame and creates the lip that overlaps the frame on the left door. The backing on each door is the same width of the 2x4 door frame. It's much easier to build than it is to explain but I hope this helps you understand how I built the doors and the overlap.
I saw you extended the 1x4 trim along the center edge of the right-side door to overlap the left side door, but you'd already installed the left side door and the camera angle prevents me from seeing if you have the siding extended from under the 1x4 trim on the center edge of the left door to 'marry' with the trim on the right door? And were the steel plates (at least on the floor) for your barrel lock galvanized? Thanks for your video; well explained and quality built doors.
Yes the trim seam of the two doors falls in the middle of the door opening. The overlap is slightly offset on the back of the seam where the two doors come together. The actual gap between the two doors at the seam is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch top to bottom to allow for expanding during temp changes throughout the year. No the steel plates for the barrel lock is not galvanized.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thank you for your quick reply, but I’m sorry, it’s still not clear to me what, if anything, you did to the left door to ‘fill the gap’ at the centerline. For the right door you extended the trim 1/2” beyond the siding panel toward the gap. Did you extend the siding panel 1/2” toward the gap on the left door, which would be behind the trim extension on the right door?
Oh I understand your question now. On the left door the exterior siding and trim are set back 1/2" on the 2x4 door frame along the opening edge. In other words the siding and trim don't come to the edge of the 2x4 frame along that edge on the left door. When the doors come together the left door must be closed first. Then when the right door is closed the 1/2" overlap from the right door overlaps 1/2" of the exposed 2x4 frame from the left door. It's kind of hard to explain but I hope that makes sense now.
When I built the 2x4 door frames the left door frame is 1/2" wider than the right door frame. This way when they overlap that 1/2", the center of the two exterior panels and trim are centered in the door opening.
Thank you - much clearer now. So you extended the trim and siding panel 1/2” on the right door, so that, plus the 2x4 frame extension from the left door gives equal thickness (with the two combined) to what each door is individually?
No sag ? I doubted it might sag by now. The only way to prevent it from sagging is to use half-lap joinery and reinforce it with wood glue, also when you attach LP smart panel to the frame, be sure use lot of glue at all 4 corners.
What are your recommendations on keeping rain from entering the top of your barn doors? We have a new shed and heavy rains get in thru that area. Any type of drip edge or something to divert water but still allow the doors to open? Thanks pal!
The second door is locked with a security locking bar. I made a couple of videos showing how I made the locking bar. Here is a link to the first video if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/iWBJuK6nxK0/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Would running a bead of exterior caulk across the upper edge of the additional top trim help prevent the rain seeping downward?
See all my DIY Shed Build videos here - th-cam.com/play/PLC_QVs9y_q3tAXy20aNUBBd79fsqD2QCk.html
your upper and lower horizontal frame boards should be on top of your vertical framing board to prevent water from entering the end grain of the board not between them.
Good. It looks like the way your doors overlap below floor level that they will keep out the mice, at least from entering there. I can't tell if the other gaps are small enough to prevent mice entry but it looks hopeful. I hear that mice can usually squeeze through a 1/4" gap. Frankly I'm tired of mice and the shed I am building now is for once going to keep them out.
Nice work well done
Thanks for the visit
Simple approach, and they came out looking great!
Thank you Mike!
Furring strips good idea!
It worked out pretty well we think.
I found your videos very helpful and well done, it's by far one of the best shed videos on TH-cam. I have a question, I am working on my shed doors right now and I am wondering if the right door need to be 1/2 shorter to overlap the left door. Is that correct? Are there a different measurement for the left and right door or are both exactly the same?
Thank you, I appreciate that! The 2x4 door frames are 1/2" difference in width. Looking at the front of the shed the left door frame is 1/2" wider than the right door frame. The door skins are exactly the same width so the doors appear to be the same width from the front when the doors are closed. This makes the door frame on the left door protrude 1/2" past the skin and that creates the backing for the right door to close against. The skin on the right door extends 1/2" past that door frame and creates the lip that overlaps the frame on the left door. The backing on each door is the same width of the 2x4 door frame. It's much easier to build than it is to explain but I hope this helps you understand how I built the doors and the overlap.
I saw you extended the 1x4 trim along the center edge of the right-side door to overlap the left side door, but you'd already installed the left side door and the camera angle prevents me from seeing if you have the siding extended from under the 1x4 trim on the center edge of the left door to 'marry' with the trim on the right door? And were the steel plates (at least on the floor) for your barrel lock galvanized? Thanks for your video; well explained and quality built doors.
Yes the trim seam of the two doors falls in the middle of the door opening. The overlap is slightly offset on the back of the seam where the two doors come together. The actual gap between the two doors at the seam is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch top to bottom to allow for expanding during temp changes throughout the year. No the steel plates for the barrel lock is not galvanized.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thank you for your quick reply, but I’m sorry, it’s still not clear to me what, if anything, you did to the left door to ‘fill the gap’ at the centerline. For the right door you extended the trim 1/2” beyond the siding panel toward the gap. Did you extend the siding panel 1/2” toward the gap on the left door, which would be behind the trim extension on the right door?
Oh I understand your question now. On the left door the exterior siding and trim are set back 1/2" on the 2x4 door frame along the opening edge. In other words the siding and trim don't come to the edge of the 2x4 frame along that edge on the left door. When the doors come together the left door must be closed first. Then when the right door is closed the 1/2" overlap from the right door overlaps 1/2" of the exposed 2x4 frame from the left door. It's kind of hard to explain but I hope that makes sense now.
When I built the 2x4 door frames the left door frame is 1/2" wider than the right door frame. This way when they overlap that 1/2", the center of the two exterior panels and trim are centered in the door opening.
Thank you - much clearer now. So you extended the trim and siding panel 1/2” on the right door, so that, plus the 2x4 frame extension from the left door gives equal thickness (with the two combined) to what each door is individually?
cool design👍🏽
Thank you 👍🏻
Great job
Thanks John
How did you keep the right door from opening or how can you open it without a door knob
The locking bar keeps the right door from opening. When I remove the locking bar I simply open the right door by pulling on the locking bar mount.
thank you great vid
You're welcome Derrick. Thanks for watching!
Awesome
Thank you Jose
No sag ? I doubted it might sag by now. The only way to prevent it from sagging is to use half-lap joinery and reinforce it with wood glue, also when you attach LP smart panel to the frame, be sure use lot of glue at all 4 corners.
What are your recommendations on keeping rain from entering the top of your barn doors? We have a new shed and heavy rains get in thru that area. Any type of drip edge or something to divert water but still allow the doors to open? Thanks pal!
Sorry pal but I don't have any recommendations for that issue. I have not had that problem so far.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 well I appreciate ya reaching back out man
No problem, I wish you the best.
Install a drip edge, or flashing above the door seam?
Maybe try a little porch above the doors?
what is the difference between the R.O. size and the door size?
I have about a 1/8" play on all sides of the door
How do you lock the second one.??
I noticed that that you can lock one but not the second one
The second door is locked with a security locking bar. I made a couple of videos showing how I made the locking bar. Here is a link to the first video if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/iWBJuK6nxK0/w-d-xo.html
My question is how did you install the doors BTW nice doors
Dude. Why did you put the top addition trim. Wings……?……?
Aesthetics, I kinda like it, not the same ole same ole.
It also helps prevent water from running down the sides of the trim and going between the trim and the siding.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Would running a bead of exterior caulk across the upper edge of the additional top trim help prevent the rain seeping downward?