This is the proper way to do this. Complete disassembly, thorough cleaning of the components, correct masking of contact surfaces, then high heat paint applied and cured. Agree with those who say to chase the threads to prevent galling upon reassembly, and possibly honing the piston bore if needed. Overall, very well done.
To all those saying, “this looks professional.”The final product does look great, and I’m sure will last. However the grease used to lubricate the caliper piston is for the outside parts such as the sliders or pad guides. The only lubricant that should be used to lubricator brake piston seals is brake fluid, or else you risk contamination of the brake fluid and seal failure.
What do you use to overhaul brake cups ? You use brake grease , it won't contaminate your oil or seals or erode your lines because it's made for that plus some of it will get diluted and comes out with the brake bleeding procedure .
@ You shouldn’t use anything but brake fluid according to EVERY manufacturer. Synthetic brake grease is only used to lubricate sliders, anti rattle clips, brake pad to carrier and possibly between the pad and caliper exterior. It has a high melt temperature point and it won’t cause rubber slide boots to swell. It does “dilute” in brake fluid and could cause clogs in brake fluid return to the master cylinder. Brake fluid passages in bleeder screws and the master, may only be 1mm in diameter. They clog as the flew hoses deteriorate so I wouldn’t trust passages with ANYTHING thicker than brake fluid.
@deanbudgell6220 i guess you never saw drum brakes assembly in a factory or an overhaul at the dealer or a professional shop , there is literally a grease specifically made to be used in the cup overhaul process and it will delute and won't cause any clogging or corrosion or high contamination of the fluid and as I said after every overhaul you need to bleed the system very well
25 years as a licensed mechanic and every manufacturer tells me otherwise. For example here is Fords recommendation WARNING: Do not use any fluid other than clean brake fluid meeting manufacturer's specification. Additionally, do not use brake fluid that has been previously drained. Following these instructions will help prevent system contamination, brake component damage and the risk of serious personal injury. You can do whatever you want to your brakes. But I will not teach my students improper procedures using improper methods.
I've done this twice. First time with 2K paint and they looked great but brake fluid resistance was awful. Second time was with VHT and I baked them. They are still amazing looking 2 years later. So I couldn't agree more with this approach. Great video!
Nice job 😎 I recognise those calipers - same as on my Volvo, though I wouldn't brave disassembling them at my desk like that 😵 Very surprised how well boiling in citric acid worked - I might give that a go 👍
Nicely done job! It was good to see the use of citric acid, because that's a great way to remove rust and I've never tried that, with a caliper, so far.
A strong vinegar solution overnight is the best I've ever used. It must be done outdoors, however, because of the odor of vinegar, which is likely unhealthy to breath very long.
Good Video :) I always apply high temp ceramic grease on inside threads to stop steel bleeding nipples sizing up. And use ATE assembly lube on seals and pistons itself. Also if u want them to last lot longer than zinc plating is best rust prevention and than powder coating or Epoxy primer and spray it.
2:20 lemon acid you mean citric acid?? It works with more metals or its specified for some metal?? i would like a bit explanation since i have many parts that i always sand by hand because i dont have sandblasting machine.. it will be really usefull to have more time while the chemicals working.. thanks you!!
Excellent work. Never thought of Lemon Acid and it's ability to remove rust from calipers. You used Zinc Primer, then a black paint on the mounting surface. Is that just black heat-resistant black paint as well? Thanks again for this how to.
I know most BMWs have this style and the service manual specifically states to clean the guide pins but so not lubricate. Due to the pins potentially being open to the elements, any lubricant could attract foreign contaminants. Sealed systems such as Kia and others are within the metal caliper bracket and need to be lubricated.
Those slider pins you should only use silicone based grease, if not they will dry up against the rubber slider pin housing it goes through. The rubber housing have like 3-4 pockets inside where silicone grease should fill up all available space. What he sid with the piston is fine, you will bleed the brakes with new dot4 brake fluid after mounting, this will be lubing the piston for years untill dust particles gather up and lock up the brakes again.. I have rebuilt the same brakes on my VW
Yes, good vid. If you don’t have a sandblaster, here’s my poor man’s substitute: one of those massage ‘guns’. I got a small diameter (1 inch ish) wire brush head, meant for use in a drill, and i had to increase the diameter of the shaft of it from the standard 1/4” to around 10mm or so. Now you could just wrap say, a cut-off segment of a hose pipe, and keep going until you get it about right, then apply duck tape or insulation tape with some tension, to hold it in place. I have a bag of short lengths of clear plastic tubing various sizes, that neatly are a press-fit into their next size up or down, you know what I mean. It took three of those, about 1” lengths, shoved over one another. It was easier to give it a try, then remove all of them, and assemble the chinese-doll arrangement of three stumpy bits of tubing OFF of the rotary wire brush, THEN bang them on with a hammer gently, and yea, wear gloves here. Then, it fitted the mounting hole in the ‘gun’ pretty well, all these things are just push-fit anyway on my unit. How well does it work? Pretty well. I got the one that is most compact, I didn’t go for max power or size or anything, I just got the one that had a decent Temu star rating. It’s got gold edging on it, if you are looking. It was less than £10UK . I used it on my Prius rear brake caliper, and it took the rust off better than the alternative, hammering with a small weld-flux removing hammer, or hand wire-brushing or rotary wire brushing. There’s still a use for rotary wire brushing, my main issue is, I don’t want to damage my drilling device, Bosch or Milwaukee, neither surely has bearings designed for that much axial loading? Anyway…while this does not take the rust down to the metal, it’s as good as any of the other non-laser or non-sandblasting methods, and easier. And the lack of out-of-control rotary whooshing wire bristles is nice too. My particular massage gun, has 6 power settings. But, in addition, it has a sort of ‘pressure-activated-boost’ action, and this is proportional to the power setting you are on. IE push down harder on setting one, and there’s a certain faster buzzing with a certain amount of force, but if you up that to say setting 3, then press harder into the workpiece, the resulting boost seems more than on the lower setting. I’m sure it’s an improvement, if only for when you don’t have a vice or whatever, to hold the workpiece/calliper, it’s safer than a wild rotary action on an angle grinder or drill maybe, and some weird dints and crevices are positively elusive without a direct-line hammer action. So, that’s my tip. Drawbacks are, as expected, the bristles do ‘bend over’ at the tip after a bit, but I suspect if I either wrap duck tape or maybe use a couple of tie-wraps or circlips/jubilee clips, to keep the bristle ‘bunched’ properly then it mightn’t let the bristles bend at the tip. I only just got a vice, after 50 years of working on cars I thought I better start making it easier. Getting the tools I always avoided buying. Sandblasting is obviously really good. Laser, is really, really good, but will get cheaper I am sure. My only issue is laser rust removal is awfully easy - you have to get set up to sand blast, your child or curious teenager isn’t going to readily mess with a sandblaster booth. Lasers are somewhat dangerous when they are that powerful, and it’s a bit like welding which now is also very cheap…I was put off not by the PPE I needed to buy, but by the need for a neat workshop. I’ve got naptha and all sorts in there! So until I have a decently-sorted garage, welding is another thing to steer clear of for me. Good vid, take care all.
pressure release on the break piston can be achieved with pressured air. Be carefull though, use low pressure and as in this video, a cloth to brace the exit of the piston.
*I was wondering why someone would do this. Judging by the grease tube (Russian worda and lettering), this is in Russia. Where the part is more expensive than his labor. Here, it is cheaper to buy replacement calipers than to bake paint with your oven, buying new seals, and grease. LoL!* *PS - ANY part that has a slider or cylinder and piston mechanic to it, NEVER sandblast. ANY single pit or scoring on the surface of the cylinder wall can cause failure. Tape off the area and use a lower rpm wire wheel, or wire brush by hand, or a rotary tool.*
If you watch closely, you'll realize there's 2 of them for both sides of the car, they are symmetrical, so there isn't any mistery you were just looking at the same calipers from differents sides of the car. I think that would be pretty clear tbh, because you can see both in the video.
@IDontTalkToCops if its an old car fine. If its a newer one and parts are easily available. Theres enough work there already. Get a core charge if you can. Olenty of fun doing that job. And not this unessacary bit.
@lucaslagun8283 i can buy an oem part for most vehicles upto 20 years back. I could see this on something vintage. Though often they do complete highend brake setups on most I've seen. I'll stand by its cheaper to buy than the time it took the person being recorded to do all that work.
I was rebuilding my read clipers and I struggled to put a new rubber boot back in place. The rubber boot end has a metal ring which I could not mound on the groove even with a force and you seem to mound it fairly easily 7:13 Does it need a lot of force?
Some of the comments here are just crazy. The small mindedness is incredible. Our world is full of this. What chance have we got….This is great what he is doing. Well done.
Note he tried to save the seals, too. By this method, you can save $35 or more per caliper, and you control quality, not some over-worked, under-paid quota slave in an off- shore refurbisher factory. Those who plan to keep their cars already realize how quickly parts can disappear from the after-market. Recycling is the answer, which puts you back in control. * Even industry rebuild kits don't deliver this level of quality. Their only plausible purpose is to provide replacement of damaged rubber parts. If your rubber parts are reusable, consider protecting them with high-quality silicone grease for protection against oxidation while in storage.
Some folks don't like powder coating because it comes out a bit goopy-looking. The spray finish tends to retain details better. I've seen this on my motorcycle project.
the bore in use is protected by the brake fluid, which as long as you replace at the correct intervals wouldn't suffer any corrosion issues, and the sealing surface is the piston anyway so don't need to stress to much on the bore
Might i suggest using the correct size spanner rather than us a poorly fitting adjustable wrench, they are very prone to rounding over the edges of nuts. ☹
Having worked at a gm dealership until early 2000s....I can say that the factory never painted calipers from the factory... Unless it was a special package.... Which was NOT the majority
Caliper paint is heat resistant to 900*F. It is also very chemical resistant. Would have been nice to know what black primer you used and the final coat. They do look tremendous and that lemon acid trick is da shizat.
zinc primer probably silicon-organic base (temp resistant). And final paint based on silicone polymers. I would use paint for the calipers to be sure of paint compatibility. Thank you!
Unless you used some VERY special paint, any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid drips from final assembly or bleeding will eat off that paint and expose bare metal. I wonder if powder coating would be able to withstand this...
This is the proper way to do this. Complete disassembly, thorough cleaning of the components, correct masking of contact surfaces, then high heat paint applied and cured. Agree with those who say to chase the threads to prevent galling upon reassembly, and possibly honing the piston bore if needed. Overall, very well done.
Earplugs are great for plugging bolt holes for paint.
Wow...that is a professional job. What great work.
To all those saying, “this looks professional.”The final product does look great, and I’m sure will last. However the grease used to lubricate the caliper piston is for the outside parts such as the sliders or pad guides. The only lubricant that should be used to lubricator brake piston seals is brake fluid, or else you risk contamination of the brake fluid and seal failure.
What do you use to overhaul brake cups ? You use brake grease , it won't contaminate your oil or seals or erode your lines because it's made for that plus some of it will get diluted and comes out with the brake bleeding procedure .
@ You shouldn’t use anything but brake fluid according to EVERY manufacturer. Synthetic brake grease is only used to lubricate sliders, anti rattle clips, brake pad to carrier and possibly between the pad and caliper exterior. It has a high melt temperature point and it won’t cause rubber slide boots to swell. It does “dilute” in brake fluid and could cause clogs in brake fluid return to the master cylinder. Brake fluid passages in bleeder screws and the master, may only be 1mm in diameter. They clog as the flew hoses deteriorate so I wouldn’t trust passages with ANYTHING thicker than brake fluid.
@deanbudgell6220 i guess you never saw drum brakes assembly in a factory or an overhaul at the dealer or a professional shop , there is literally a grease specifically made to be used in the cup overhaul process and it will delute and won't cause any clogging or corrosion or high contamination of the fluid and as I said after every overhaul you need to bleed the system very well
@deanbudgell6220 white lithium based or silicone based grease
25 years as a licensed mechanic and every manufacturer tells me otherwise. For example here is Fords recommendation WARNING: Do not use any fluid other than clean brake fluid meeting manufacturer's specification. Additionally, do not use brake fluid that has been previously drained. Following these instructions will help prevent system contamination, brake component damage and the risk of serious personal injury. You can do whatever you want to your brakes. But I will not teach my students improper procedures using improper methods.
Nice result. It'd be great if you explain the steps you go through and the materials used for restoring/rebuilding the calipers.
I've done this twice. First time with 2K paint and they looked great but brake fluid resistance was awful. Second time was with VHT and I baked them. They are still amazing looking 2 years later. So I couldn't agree more with this approach. Great video!
The best video I've seen on brake cylinders. Very good and thorough work! Many thanks!
Nice job 😎 I recognise those calipers - same as on my Volvo, though I wouldn't brave disassembling them at my desk like that 😵 Very surprised how well boiling in citric acid worked - I might give that a go 👍
This would be better without the background music like your previous brake video.
I usually despise music in these videos, but the music in the first 4.5 minutes is actually pretty cool and catchy, very fitting.
@@queensapphire7717, I’m feeling it also.
Bei meinem Gerät kann der Ton ausgeschaltet werden.
Turn the sound off.
You have a volume button?
Nicely done job! It was good to see the use of citric acid, because that's a great way to remove rust and I've never tried that, with a caliper, so far.
A strong vinegar solution overnight is the best I've ever used. It must be done outdoors, however, because of the odor of vinegar, which is likely unhealthy to breath very long.
@@markjones7417 chip shop simulator 🤣
Cotton balls for holes
Did he use citric acid and the rest water?
@@juddskiibiz yes to make up the citric acid solution.
Good Video :) I always apply high temp ceramic grease on inside threads to stop steel bleeding nipples sizing up. And use ATE assembly lube on seals and pistons itself.
Also if u want them to last lot longer than zinc plating is best rust prevention and than powder coating or Epoxy primer and spray it.
I'm a marathon runner and often have to put grease on my bleeding nipples.
Awesome job and great results
Mine were severely pitted but still looked a whole lot better after cleaning and painting.Liked.
2:20 lemon acid you mean citric acid?? It works with more metals or its specified for some metal?? i would like a bit explanation since i have many parts that i always sand by hand because i dont have sandblasting machine.. it will be really usefull to have more time while the chemicals working.. thanks you!!
I think you can try use vinegar, just soak it for one or two night or more for bigger parts.
no its gotta be lemon or the flavor wont be correct
Appreciate the dedication and time. ❤❤
Well I think you did a great job 👍 music and all.
Peace my brother ✌️
Nice! I learned a few tricks. Thank you very much
Cool! Thank you too!!)
All threaded holes need to have bolts screwed into them before sandblasting and painting. Then, a thread tap must be run in to clear out the threads.😊
Just stick foam ear plugs in if there nice and snug, should be good.
Great job ! 👍
Thank you!!!
@@6wood You're welcome !
thank you for quality content
Excellent work. Never thought of Lemon Acid and it's ability to remove rust from calipers. You used Zinc Primer, then a black paint on the mounting surface. Is that just black heat-resistant black paint as well?
Thanks again for this how to.
Congratulations for this magnificent work good day
You need to lubricate the slider pins otherwise it’ll seize up pretty quickly.
Not on these styles...many manufacturers don't recommend lubricating these.
So when should we lubricate and when not? Can you explain please?
@@wcmauldin81what calipers are these for because it’s the first I’ve ever heard of it? They will get water ingress and rust.
I know most BMWs have this style and the service manual specifically states to clean the guide pins but so not lubricate. Due to the pins potentially being open to the elements, any lubricant could attract foreign contaminants.
Sealed systems such as Kia and others are within the metal caliper bracket and need to be lubricated.
@@viteckafu4730 именно эти нельзя смазывать.
Isn't it necessary to lube the slides/guide pins and piston before use?
Those slider pins you should only use silicone based grease, if not they will dry up against the rubber slider pin housing it goes through. The rubber housing have like 3-4 pockets inside where silicone grease should fill up all available space.
What he sid with the piston is fine, you will bleed the brakes with new dot4 brake fluid after mounting, this will be lubing the piston for years untill dust particles gather up and lock up the brakes again.. I have rebuilt the same brakes on my VW
Awesome job and video
Yes, good vid. If you don’t have a sandblaster, here’s my poor man’s substitute: one of those massage ‘guns’. I got a small diameter (1 inch ish) wire brush head, meant for use in a drill, and i had to increase the diameter of the shaft of it from the standard 1/4” to around 10mm or so. Now you could just wrap say, a cut-off segment of a hose pipe, and keep going until you get it about right, then apply duck tape or insulation tape with some tension, to hold it in place. I have a bag of short lengths of clear plastic tubing various sizes, that neatly are a press-fit into their next size up or down, you know what I mean. It took three of those, about 1” lengths, shoved over one another. It was easier to give it a try, then remove all of them, and assemble the chinese-doll arrangement of three stumpy bits of tubing OFF of the rotary wire brush, THEN bang them on with a hammer gently, and yea, wear gloves here. Then, it fitted the mounting hole in the ‘gun’ pretty well, all these things are just push-fit anyway on my unit.
How well does it work? Pretty well. I got the one that is most compact, I didn’t go for max power or size or anything, I just got the one that had a decent Temu star rating. It’s got gold edging on it, if you are looking. It was less than £10UK . I used it on my Prius rear brake caliper, and it took the rust off better than the alternative, hammering with a small weld-flux removing hammer, or hand wire-brushing or rotary wire brushing. There’s still a use for rotary wire brushing, my main issue is, I don’t want to damage my drilling device, Bosch or Milwaukee, neither surely has bearings designed for that much axial loading? Anyway…while this does not take the rust down to the metal, it’s as good as any of the other non-laser or non-sandblasting methods, and easier. And the lack of out-of-control rotary whooshing wire bristles is nice too.
My particular massage gun, has 6 power settings. But, in addition, it has a sort of ‘pressure-activated-boost’ action, and this is proportional to the power setting you are on. IE push down harder on setting one, and there’s a certain faster buzzing with a certain amount of force, but if you up that to say setting 3, then press harder into the workpiece, the resulting boost seems more than on the lower setting. I’m sure it’s an improvement, if only for when you don’t have a vice or whatever, to hold the workpiece/calliper, it’s safer than a wild rotary action on an angle grinder or drill maybe, and some weird dints and crevices are positively elusive without a direct-line hammer action.
So, that’s my tip. Drawbacks are, as expected, the bristles do ‘bend over’ at the tip after a bit, but I suspect if I either wrap duck tape or maybe use a couple of tie-wraps or circlips/jubilee clips, to keep the bristle ‘bunched’ properly then it mightn’t let the bristles bend at the tip. I only just got a vice, after 50 years of working on cars I thought I better start making it easier. Getting the tools I always avoided buying. Sandblasting is obviously really good. Laser, is really, really good, but will get cheaper I am sure. My only issue is laser rust removal is awfully easy - you have to get set up to sand blast, your child or curious teenager isn’t going to readily mess with a sandblaster booth. Lasers are somewhat dangerous when they are that powerful, and it’s a bit like welding which now is also very cheap…I was put off not by the PPE I needed to buy, but by the need for a neat workshop. I’ve got naptha and all sorts in there! So until I have a decently-sorted garage, welding is another thing to steer clear of for me. Good vid, take care all.
Молодец. Долгая и кропотливая работа.
Только зря он лимонную кислоту не нейтрализовал щелочным раствором.
pressure release on the break piston can be achieved with pressured air. Be carefull though, use low pressure and as in this video, a cloth to brace the exit of the piston.
You can pump the piston out before removing the caliper from the car
@@olejakobsen2363 indeed, this is also true. just remove the brake pads and you push it out. Off the disk of course
@@olejakobsen2363 Yes, that can work, but you won't be able to control the release of brake fluid, and risk making a mess.
Very Good Video! 👍
Music made me turn off.
No one cares
It's called mute ✨
*I was wondering why someone would do this. Judging by the grease tube (Russian worda and lettering), this is in Russia. Where the part is more expensive than his labor. Here, it is cheaper to buy replacement calipers than to bake paint with your oven, buying new seals, and grease. LoL!*
*PS - ANY part that has a slider or cylinder and piston mechanic to it, NEVER sandblast. ANY single pit or scoring on the surface of the cylinder wall can cause failure. Tape off the area and use a lower rpm wire wheel, or wire brush by hand, or a rotary tool.*
Very nice work 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
very beautiful work
How did the BRAKE BLEED NIPPLE MOVE TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE?
If you watch closely, you'll realize there's 2 of them for both sides of the car, they are symmetrical, so there isn't any mistery you were just looking at the same calipers from differents sides of the car. I think that would be pretty clear tbh, because you can see both in the video.
Nice Job bro 💪🏼
Красота, да и только 👍!
Great video, and helpfull for everybody.
After the hours of work, and having the expensive machines to do the work. Its far cheaper and easier to just buy the replacements and slap them on.
Yes but what’s the fun in that!? 🤷♂️
@IDontTalkToCops if its an old car fine. If its a newer one and parts are easily available. Theres enough work there already. Get a core charge if you can. Olenty of fun doing that job. And not this unessacary bit.
not is not :) so call new aftermarket parts are often low quality ones and are cheap for reason.
@lucaslagun8283 i can buy an oem part for most vehicles upto 20 years back. I could see this on something vintage. Though often they do complete highend brake setups on most I've seen. I'll stand by its cheaper to buy than the time it took the person being recorded to do all that work.
Ya , but they are not nicely painted ?
Great result! How long did it take for the lemon acid to remove the rust entirely? You also heated it, what was the temperature?
Great video 👍
I was rebuilding my read clipers and I struggled to put a new rubber boot back in place.
The rubber boot end has a metal ring which I could not mound on the groove even with a force and you seem to mound it fairly easily 7:13 Does it need a lot of force?
Factory or aftermarket calipers etc are not painted they are zinc plated
what chemicals do you use to boil the rust off?
It's citric acid
Some of the comments here are just crazy. The small mindedness is incredible. Our world is full of this. What chance have we got….This is great what he is doing. Well done.
Отличное видео! Тоже буду реставрировать) Сколько по времени ты в лимонке отстаивал? Кипятил?
Nice to have all that equipment to do this.
You mean salt, lemons, a toothbrush, paint and an oven? Only thing most people won't have is the time it takes to do this.
Beautifully done
Great video! Well done!
"Like from the factory"
you kidding me?? that's thousand times better than factory.
Note he tried to save the seals, too. By this method, you can save $35 or more per caliper, and you control quality, not some over-worked, under-paid quota slave in an off- shore refurbisher factory.
Those who plan to keep their cars already realize how quickly parts can disappear from the after-market.
Recycling is the answer, which puts you back in control.
* Even industry rebuild kits don't deliver this level of quality. Their only plausible purpose is to provide replacement of damaged rubber parts. If your rubber parts are reusable, consider protecting them with high-quality silicone grease for protection against oxidation while in storage.
What kind of paint products were used in the video and where can i get them from?
Great finish! How long did you bake it for?
great but no grease on the slide pins ?????
How long did you heat the lemon acid mixture to get the result?
Great result and proper process. However i prefer powder coating coz spray paint will be weakened over time.
Some folks don't like powder coating because it comes out a bit goopy-looking. The spray finish tends to retain details better. I've seen this on my motorcycle project.
look really good them.....how long did you bake them for?
20min max)
How did you protect the coating inside the bore, which is the most important bit?
the bore in use is protected by the brake fluid, which as long as you replace at the correct intervals wouldn't suffer any corrosion issues, and the sealing surface is the piston anyway so don't need to stress to much on the bore
Good job 👍
Nice job 👍
Nice vid. What's rhe white grease you use on the various components?
Looks like lithium grease to me.
200c for how long??
What type of powder do you use to clean?
Might i suggest using the correct size spanner rather than us a poorly fitting adjustable wrench, they are very prone to rounding over the edges of nuts. ☹
Do you use lemon acid to clear rust ? Water and lemon acid is safe for this ?
How long did you cook with citric acid?
How did you dry it then?
Which paint was used? Looking for that exact finish but cant find.
can I use a compress to push out the cylinder?
Does that lemon acid remove rust so effectively? Can't believe my eyes!
White vinegar is great too.
The citric acid is wayyyyy faster than vinegar.
Having worked at a gm dealership until early 2000s....I can say that the factory never painted calipers from the factory... Unless it was a special package.... Which was NOT the majority
brilliant my man 🤘
All that work , would it be better to buy a remanufactured
Caliper ?
Everything was done very well but it looked like you didn't lube the caliper slide pins?
You shouldn't use lubricant on this style caliper, as dirt will stick to is making the pins stick as they are partly open to the environment
The guide pin requires vermatex grease application.
6 hours to get the paint dry. 6 hours in the oven @200° ? °C or °F ?
Nice job 👍🏽👏👏👏
How many time use on lemon accid in power gas?
Hi. Thanks for the video. Why You use a heat after painting? Can I use a bike pump to extend the cylinder?
yes. you can use bike pump. heat is because for making sure paint doesnt fade when install on car
@@MrOner07 You can also put it out when caliber is conneted in your car, take it out disk and only push brake pedal.
Молодец красиво получилось.
معلم كبير 🎉 بس كنت اتمنى تعطيها لون أصفر او احمر 😂
No grease on the sliding pins ?
How long on bake time should be done?
What type of paste did you use on the brake cylinder?
light grease lube type doesnt matter too much
Polyalkylene Glycol
Bello (solo) a vedersi, metterlo in pratica è cosa da pazzi!!!
Caliper paint is heat resistant to 900*F. It is also very chemical resistant. Would have been nice to know what black primer you used and the final coat. They do look tremendous and that lemon acid trick is da shizat.
zinc primer probably silicon-organic base (temp resistant). And final paint based on silicone polymers. I would use paint for the calipers to be sure of paint compatibility. Thank you!
Great job!
Unless you used some VERY special paint, any DOT3 or DOT4 fluid drips from final assembly or bleeding will eat off that paint and expose bare metal. I wonder if powder coating would be able to withstand this...
...on some bike vids they used cerakote.
Women find men with painted brake calipers irresistible .
Was that silicon grease being used.
What is the zinc primer for?
This video is made from which country.
How exactly did he pop the piston out?
Edit: nevermind I see he used an air compressor.
I recognize these. Mazda calipers. Did my recently as well, except I derusted them with electrolysis.
The logo on the calipers reads “Ford”, of course many Ford and Mazda parts are interchangeable depending on the market you are in .
How long it take in the oven?
why the heating process if primer is air dried ?
Ottimo lavoro super 👍👌
Надо сделать еще одно видег, чтобы показать как они выглядят через год использования
NICE JOB!
You can use grease gun instead of air pressure, its safer and soaking calibers in winegar instead of citron acid, nice work anyway.
just make sure you fill it with brake fluid, grease will destroy the rubber.
What air compressor are you using?
is this real? Lemon acid removes rust?
You can just put air to that to push the piston out if anyone wants a simple way to
What if your favorite color is rust-brown?😅