The most common mistake in any brake job. Anybody can pop rotors and pads in, but greasing pins, shims and contact points are seemingly an afterthought and usually cause warped rotors or uneven pad wear. I’ve been doing brakes for 25 years and even I took away a lesson from this video, which is to lube the cavity before installing the boot - very good idea in order not to gum up the boot.
From my experience of greasing shims, all that brake dust and crap sticks to them, leading to more problems down the road, I have always done my own brake jobs never had a problem or a complaint from a customer
DIY is a real problem for even basic jobs because 99% of people don't have torque wrenches. You don't guess specs when it comes to your braking/suspension systems.. let alone putting threadlocker on the caliper bracket bolts. Greasing pads properly is the least of their worries
@@COBRO98Have you been at a garage? Most of the time they don't care about thing you mentioned. I think some hobbyists are more precise with the things you mentioned. At least i do. ;)
I now understand that I have treated my rear brake caliper with too much grease loving and shall remove and clean off the excess. I could not understand why my pads would not grip the disk tightly and now I do. Thank you ever so much for the tutorial, much appreciated.
I live in Ontario Canada and that means salt on the roads and rust on your car. Sooner or later this salty water makes its way past the rubber boot, either at the pin interface or at the caliper bracket interface. To slow this water infiltration down I always put a bit of grease in the slot where the rubber bushing is going to seat and rotate the rubber to spread the grease and form a better seal. Once I started doing this (both ends of the seal) I haven't had any rusty pins.
Excellent video. This also applies to putting a bolt into a blind hole. Excess grease or gunk can hydrolock the bolt, breaking the threaded hole. Just spray some brake clean into holes and blow them out with compressed air to avoid this.
I've seen this so many times with new customers that it's a big part of the braking system that gets neglected and can result in no brakes or cooked brakes. Good video
Finally answered my questions about the different pins. My Toyota Rav 4 has the rubber bushing on the lead pin only. I replaced my pins cuz the existing ones had ripped boots and became severely stuck inside the hole. Once removed were caked with Dirty baked on crud. Hard as a rock. When I purchased a new set of pins, the bushing wasn't included and the autozone stores weren't aware of it at all. So I figured that toyota discontinued that part as problematic. However I also purchased a new set of 4 rubber boots, and the in the bag were 2 rubber bushings for the pins (Sold separately). So I cleanup the bracket and holes and all surfaces. Also painted calipers with red caliper paint. (Holes cleanup was extensive but thourogh and masked of for paint). When I use the clear lubricant I not realized that I noticed some resistance and didn't quite feel how I expected it to feel. But I I proceed to over grease all the pins. I was just about to reinstall my brackets over the rotor, but saw this video and Was I Wrong and your video was perfect in explaining too much lube would have caused me major head aches down the road. So I'm perfectly and completely informed how to install and with your instructions " DO IT RIGHT!!" And save my girlfriend hundreds and keep her happy with me too. I was about to make a tiny but huge mistake just like the previous mechanic did. Great Video and very Informed. Thank you Sooo Much!! 😊
I made this mistake on one brake caliper but not on the other. I can confirm one wheel makes lot of noises when braking but the other don't. So this is a great tip!
I collect vintage cars and i often overhaul old calipers / brakes , and the most common mistake i see, is that people use the wrong stuff. Some pins got stuck, because the stuff used got hard, or they used to little and water got inside, building up rust. in theory you did it perfect, but in real live you want to get forward in your work. so what i usally do, is ( after cleaning rotten seize out), i give a good squeeze into the rubber hole, and then push/turn the pin in, and check for a good tight sit and free moving. that´s all. sometimes i used ab bit much (brake caliper seize btw) and that made no difference in cars use and brake wear. I am not sure if it is even possible to overfill that holes. As long as you can push the pin all the way in, it worked very OK for me for decades now. On the other hand, as mentioned before, a loto of people use the wrong stuff, which got hard over time, so the pins got stuck, which then made increased an/or uneven wear. thanks vor the vid anyway
Once the caliper heats up, those bores get slightly larger and the excess grease will seep out of its captive areas unless the pins have rubber seals which some in fact do.. Great video..
You can honestly have grease on the tip, IF... you make sure you can fully bottom out the pin in the caliper bracket BY HAND and have full travel with it, any excess grease will be pushed out into the slide pin boot and can be removed with cloth if you have too much excess, i actually prefer to have a good coating on the inside of the boot because i've worked on many cars where moisture got inside the boot and rusted away the pin around the boot seals and ruined it, just dont fill the caliper bracket holes and boot full of grease and slap it on, that grease can and will escape through any means necessary. Keep in mind the grease is used for both lubrication AND rust prevention on the slide pin so you dont want to underuse it either.
Great video. BUT, I don't agree 100% with the thought of it being over greased. Sure the pin will not push all the way into the cavity... but, it does not need to. You have a boot for one, then also the pin typically needs o be pulled out a bit to mate with the bracket. I find that when I have "over greased" the pins, that they are are still free when I change pads, versus when not. I also use Sta-Lube brake/caliper grease and not silicon. I do agree you should not have is packed on the tip and preventing the pin from completely collapsing the boot, but if the boot collapses, then you are good. That is part of the reason for the flat spots on the pin, to allow the grease to make its way back out. If you have a the pins with the rubber bushings, then yes, I agree 100% with your video as it will not allow the grease to ride along the shaft.
The reason to use silicone grease on these pins are because petroleum based grease will cause those rubber pin bushings to swell up thereby causing those pins to seize in the bores and also those rubber boots to become soft and rip as it reacts to petroleum grease
It amazes me how often I miss obvious things. I have not once ever lubed a caliper slider pin, and to think I almost passed this video by. Appreciate the knowledge!
Applying grease to pins seems to be an art that even few "professionals" discover. Thank you. I knew there was a trick to it, just didn't know how to accomplish it.
The fact that grease on the tip remains on the tip even after you pull it out tells me it serves absolutely no purpose on the tip. As you said, better to wipe it off even if it may not affect slide pin operation.
I always load up the grease on the heavy side and leave some on the tip - zero performance problems... and never had a pin seize. The pin does not bottom out, as it goes through caliper bracket first.
Wrong, Wrong and wrong. The caliper bracket does not affect the movement of the caliper on the pin. The extra grease will stop the correct movement by hydraulic action. As mine and so many others did and do. Thanks for these videos. My dealer brake job failed due to too much grease. Who woulda' thunk. Pads had 2 mm +, indicators were not contacting rotor, BUT pins would not bottom, sucked back in and were very stiff almost seized or stuck. I thought there was a return spring in the boot by design. What I was seeing was the suction return as shown so well in this video. They are all well done, no stupid music, great camera work and lighting, clear and to the point. Well done! I also put a dab of grease on the lightly greased pin end and left grease in the boot, will correct before reassembly. For the trolls: we watch these videos BECAUSE we don't know how to do a DIY. Why watch if a trained expert brake tech.? Duh. But as stated by others even the pros can learn a new tip. Trolls know every thing and can't be taught anything. I wish my high paid dealer tech had watched these videos. Would have saved me a vehicle prematurely up on stands.
I only learnt about greasing the pins in the last few years (I'm 50) . I thought I was doing it right but now I know I was over greasing them. I had signs of this too. 🤦♂️ Now to fix my errors. Thanks
I just changed my front calipers. Now I will double check my slider pins to make sure no grease is on the tip. lol Great video! I wish I watched it BEFORE my installion. lol
Nice video. Also the thicker the grease the more likely to create vacuum. When i finish installing the caliper i lift the rubber boot with a screwdriver and sometimes it burps some air left.
At first, I was thinking "9 minutes...for a vid on how to grease some caliper pins??" But then I watched the whole 9 minutes and learned some things. Great video, thanks.
Great content. Of course there are going to be those who say, ‘hell I’ve been doing it my way for 25 years with no problems’ guys. Just because you’ve been doing it ‘your’ way doesn’t mean it’s been the correct way. Learn and grow from your mistakes..
A dry test on a work bench, just isn´t the same a a brake working. i sometimes did a bit much grease into the pins, what in this video was shown as problem, but the brakes just worked exactly fine. i think because there are much bigger forces working on a hydraulic, which presses the overfilled grease just away after a few brakings. the tip of the pin is tapered, what allows grease to make it around the tip, and a break getting a little hot also fluids the grease even more. So, it´s not too bad to have 20+ years experience on brakes. in real world, time is an issue, a brake work usually contains a lot of cleaning, what is time consuming and the pins just have to work properly, what they do as long they are lubricated with a non hardening and enough lube. I have experience with especially vintage cars after 20+ years, when brakes aren´t shiny any more, and i always brought them back to life. The pin explanation was very goof, but there are way more details on brakes, which are perhaps more important. the moving parts all have to move freely, tha spacings have to be right, the stuff used has to withstand it´s specific environments, chemicals, temperatures. So in verdict. I de asseble the whole brake caliper, get the pistons out, the bracket the shims, everything, give it a decent clean and then put it back together. here in germany the TÜV then measures the brakes if they work fine on both sides equal, and they did every single time, after i did a brake job on a vintage brake system. so blaming people for doing it perhaps a little different for decades than a youtube guy, doesn´t nevessarily mean they´re wrong. in fact, most garages do a shit job on brakes. every old car i bought to use myself, i had to redo the freshly made brakes again. they are all in a hurry and didn´t clean much. When a brake gets stuck, they just sell a new brake part, that´s it. That way they make more money too. i worked in a garage myself. here the last car i bought, with fresh brakes done, me doing it again, because they worked like shit. i am not far off, but i am much faster servicing that pins, and i do a little grease outside the booth too, to seal the gaps and avoid any water to make it past the seal. th-cam.com/video/C7aacztPVMo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mn8Z4uhh3E2cCYYM&t=1256 (anoying music makes my videos ad free btw, and non monetizable for ever.) And the caliper braket was rusted as hell, that much that the pads got stuck, so i gave it a good clean (off camera) as my vice is somewhere else. you see a cleaned pad caliper holder, doesn´t know the term for that part in english, sorry.
I always use Molybdenum Disulphide grease, commonly called Molyslip or CV grease, on the slider pins. It's rated much higher than silicone grease for pressure, is kind to rubber, sticks to metals and is extremely water resistant. I have never once had a slider pin seize with Molyslip. If it's good enough to cope with the severe load conditions inside a driveshaft CV joint, then it's easily up to the task of lubricating and protecting a slider pin. One thing I will recommend is never to use copper grease. It is an abrasive that will wear through steel, causing the slider pin holes and the rubber boots to wear unevenly.
Thanks for looking into this malpractice. However, if you need the slide pin to sit all the way, you got other things to worry about. The ticker the brake lining (pad+rotor+pad), the further out the pin sits! Therefore, the only time a pin would fully sit is when the lining is completely worn already Also, the excess grease would momentarily hydrolock the pin and can definitely be felt by hand, but this is no match for brake caliper clamping force. Therefore, the grease would escape the bore and into the boot, swelling it up and might pop it. I tend to over grease so i push on the pin for grease to leak out and just burp out the air and excess grease from the boot. Most seized pins and uneven pad wear i come across are from lack of lubrication. Have yet to see that wear condition with hydro locked pins🤔
That gets a solid 10/10!! I wish all DIY videos were this well. Thank you because that just removed every doubt I had about how to lube the pins and why. 🥇
After some time and observation your spot on pal. These calliper s are vacuumed over in a lot off cases. I see lots just dry up. Some lubes are poor. I now check that the pin has full travel and remains in any position without vacuuming or hydraulic action limiting or acting upon it.
I re do it twice a year, always when I swap summer to winter tires and vice versa. I do always a break job, take the pins and pads off, clean them with break cleaner, some sand paper and break clean again and finally relube them. And always sand the inner and outer brakedisc surface, as well as the inner rim surface and bearing hub, I slightly grease them too with break grease same Inuse for the pins. Especially as pre winter treatment because of the salt.
Well...I may have just made a mistake. I saw another TH-camr recommend packing that hole with silicone grease so I did just that. Now I may have to removed the pins, clean out the hole and do it the way you just did. Thanks for the info!
Proper high temp brake grease is a silicone based PTFE lubricant. It can be placed on the back of the brake pads were the touch the piston or caliper frame with no ill effect to brake pads. I would prefer the proper amount but unfortunately 8 of 10 never get greased at all. ASE Master 78.
Ah that’s what I was doing wrong!!! Thank you mate. I am off out now to do it again. Great video and typed guidance/information. I found the silence helped with absorbing everything. I’ve subscribed 👍 Keep up the great work
very informative. I'd like to see different style pins (rubber on the tip especially) with different clearance guides tested for more conclusive results. I have one problem with your claim that the pin not pushing in all the way could be the reason for uneven wear... The floating caliper is designed to retract those pins in operation not to push them in. Plus the forces involved are so high I doubt the grease will stop it or disturb it's operation in any meaningful way as opposed to just getting pumped out thru the clearance ways. If you can point to a specific situation where it would be a problem we could discus this but from what I understand as a technician if the caliper piston is in working condition the fact that you put too much grease in the pin holes should not matter in the context of even wear even if you have completely new rotors and pads. Please point out the holes in my logic so I can learn.
I usually check if it's too much grease by installing the pin and boot and see if the boot can push the pins back up smoothly when I press down the pin and let it go. Applying a thin layer of grease caused it to stick again on the next interval..
Very true. Too much is as bad as not enough. I'm curious...do you "burp" the slider dust boot after installing the pins? I find that if you get all the air out it creates a suction effect. I prefer my pins to have a little back pressure to push the pads back into place, as long as the pin head is able to touch the caliper it's all good. When I put the pins back I just make sure the pins push in and out with ease. 👍👍
Worth checking on any new caliper or caliper bracket. Some come pre greased, some don't, I've even had pins seized in new brackets right out of the box.
The caliper slide pin would never go in all the way so you don't have to worry about it. The rubber boots and the thickness of the pads make it stick way out
Thanks a lot sir 😮,my car is the autoshop put too much grease on the pin causing the brake pads to wear differently on both sides,and the wear on the inside is worse 😅
Dry brake pins can cause a phantom clunk in the front or the rear end over bumps from the caliper pins rattling around on the carrier. Pack the pins full of grease to shut them up. I have even seen china brake pads that need extra shims these days.
This is one of the most overlooked thing- putting too much grease on the tip of the pin. This happened to me (thank me) and my caliper was stuck due to the suction pressure resulting in fast wearing brake pads.
Great video. Many thanks. Quick novice question. Before I get to greasing the pins, should the leftover grease from the previous greasing be cleaned out from the bore hole? If so - what’s the best way to get that out? Also, should grease be put on the rubber boot to keep it supple and if so - should one use the same grease type? Hope you can clear that up for me. Did my first brake job recently and am trying to learn.
Thanks. Yes you should remove the old grease from the bores. You can use brake cleaner spray and a small pipe cleaner to clean them out. You could probably put a little bit of the same grease inside the boot but I wouldn't smear it on the outside of the boots. It would probably attract a lot of dirt and debris.
I smelled burning brakes before on my vehicle and then when I was driving home I couldn't stop the vehicle. Luckily I was in stop and go traffic got off on the side street parked it got a tow home. Now my brake calipers have seized and leaked I will be using this video to replace all of them
Thanks so much for this. The algorithm knows I'm doing a brake job soon I swear. Just a few questions, how would I clean the old grease out of the caliper. Swear it's been there for decades without a clean and don't want to mix that with new grease. Also, do you have a video or advise on anti seize or lubing different parts of a pad, or shims? Thank you!
You're welcome. You can clean the old grease out using brake cleaning spray and a pipe cleaning brush like in this video: th-cam.com/video/8A-6f7kqOIk/w-d-xo.html This video gives good advice on lubing the shims etc: th-cam.com/video/sKrD8RoqRqk/w-d-xo.html
Greasing can also be the problem. I find that the silicone grease gums up. BMW manuals specifically state to clean but not grease.. So not all systems are the same. I find silicone does not resist heat well.. or most synthetic grease. I prefer ceramic grease
Brakes applied, pulls sliders out? When brakes released the suction will help pull caliper off the pads 😂 mine must be well worn as I put loads of grease on and they operate nicely... well... I think they do
Great video, thank you! Question: does this technic apply as well for the pin with the rubber gasket near then end (the one you usually found on the front calipers)?
Thank you, yes it does. Just make sure you use a silicone-based grease that is rubber friendy. Petroleum-based greases can cause that rubber gasket to swell up and cause problems.
Dude I'm not here to say this is not the right or wrong way but if you ask any certified trained or ASE technician they'll tell you there is almost no wrong or right way to grease the pin. I work at a few dealership and we just spread the grease on the pin and some will pack a little grease inside the caliper and on the pin and call it a day. Never had any issue or hear of any in the years I worked at the dealership.
I can agree on the overgreasing part. Cannot agree on what you point out as the correct way to grease. I do believe that shows lack of engineering knowledge, which is understandable from a mere mechanic. What happens in the real life is that if you grease with so little grease, you will quickly get excessive wear, and the brake calipers will start knocking really annoyingly on uneven roads.
Sir this is one of the best how to videos made. No stupid music. Straight to the point great video work.
Thank you !
Absolutely agree
In agreement
Clear, simple and well demonstrated. Thanks for not including some obnoxious music like so many others do.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
A bit of narration, however, would be nice.
There is no irritating AI voice. Great!
The most common mistake in any brake job. Anybody can pop rotors and pads in, but greasing pins, shims and contact points are seemingly an afterthought and usually cause warped rotors or uneven pad wear. I’ve been doing brakes for 25 years and even I took away a lesson from this video, which is to lube the cavity before installing the boot - very good idea in order not to gum up the boot.
Thanks for watching !
From my experience of greasing shims, all that brake dust and crap sticks to them, leading to more problems down the road, I have always done my own brake jobs never had a problem or a complaint from a customer
Maybe you don't anyway, but don't grease the entire shim, only the part wear the caliper ears touch the pad.
DIY is a real problem for even basic jobs because 99% of people don't have torque wrenches. You don't guess specs when it comes to your braking/suspension systems.. let alone putting threadlocker on the caliper bracket bolts. Greasing pads properly is the least of their worries
@@COBRO98Have you been at a garage? Most of the time they don't care about thing you mentioned. I think some hobbyists are more precise with the things you mentioned. At least i do. ;)
I knew about greasing the pins and I always do when I do my brakes, but never heard of these tips before. I’ll have to try it next time. Thanks.
Masterclass video, I thought I already knew what I needed when doing brakes but you’ve just taught me a whole new level. Many thanks
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Well, looks like I need to redo all my brakes to fix that. Wish I had found your video BEFORE doing my brakes.
I finished redo right now 😊
I am so lucky I did!
Just on time as I'm changing the brakepads
I now understand that I have treated my rear brake caliper with too much grease loving and shall remove and clean off the excess. I could not understand why my pads would not grip the disk tightly and now I do. Thank you ever so much for the tutorial, much appreciated.
You're very welcome, thanks for watching
I live in Ontario Canada and that means salt on the roads and rust on your car. Sooner or later this salty water makes its way past the rubber boot, either at the pin interface or at the caliper bracket interface. To slow this water infiltration down I always put a bit of grease in the slot where the rubber bushing is going to seat and rotate the rubber to spread the grease and form a better seal. Once I started doing this (both ends of the seal) I haven't had any rusty pins.
same here in NY near Lake Ontario....clean and regrease every Fall and Spring seems to be the best bet....lack of driving during Covid was the worst!
What grease do you use?
Lol..first time i used silicone grease, i loaded up the slider and hydro locked the unit! Lesson learned. And thanks, great presentation.
Thanks for watching !
Set underrated video.
This is the FIRST video anyone should watch if you are starting to learn how to work on cars by doing a brake job.
If you don't know then don't work on brakes on the car
If it’s not easily figured out before his video, please don’t do brakes for anyone but yourself.
Not a word spoken but one of the most informative videos on TH-cam
Thanks for watching !
Excellent video. This also applies to putting a bolt into a blind hole. Excess grease or gunk can hydrolock the bolt, breaking the threaded hole. Just spray some brake clean into holes and blow them out with compressed air to avoid this.
I've seen this so many times with new customers that it's a big part of the braking system that gets neglected and can result in no brakes or cooked brakes. Good video
Thank you !
Finally answered my questions about the different pins. My Toyota Rav 4 has the rubber bushing on the lead pin only. I replaced my pins cuz the existing ones had ripped boots and became severely stuck inside the hole. Once removed were caked with Dirty baked on crud. Hard as a rock. When I purchased a new set of pins, the bushing wasn't included and the autozone stores weren't aware of it at all. So I figured that toyota discontinued that part as problematic. However I also purchased a new set of 4 rubber boots, and the in the bag were 2 rubber bushings for the pins (Sold separately). So I cleanup the bracket and holes and all surfaces. Also painted calipers with red caliper paint. (Holes cleanup was extensive but thourogh and masked of for paint). When I use the clear lubricant I not realized that I noticed some resistance and didn't quite feel how I expected it to feel. But I I proceed to over grease all the pins.
I was just about to reinstall my brackets over the rotor, but saw this video and Was I Wrong and your video was perfect in explaining too much lube would have caused me major head aches down the road.
So I'm perfectly and completely informed how to install and with your instructions " DO IT RIGHT!!" And save my girlfriend hundreds and keep her happy with me too. I was about to make a tiny but huge mistake just like the previous mechanic did.
Great Video and very Informed.
Thank you Sooo Much!! 😊
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
I made this mistake on one brake caliper but not on the other.
I can confirm one wheel makes lot of noises when braking but the other don't.
So this is a great tip!
Thanks for watching !
I collect vintage cars and i often overhaul old calipers / brakes , and the most common mistake i see, is that people use the wrong stuff. Some pins got stuck, because the stuff used got hard, or they used to little and water got inside, building up rust.
in theory you did it perfect, but in real live you want to get forward in your work.
so what i usally do, is ( after cleaning rotten seize out), i give a good squeeze into the rubber hole, and then push/turn the pin in, and check for a good tight sit and free moving. that´s all.
sometimes i used ab bit much (brake caliper seize btw) and that made no difference in cars use and brake wear. I am not sure if it is even possible to overfill that holes.
As long as you can push the pin all the way in, it worked very OK for me for decades now.
On the other hand, as mentioned before, a loto of people use the wrong stuff, which got hard over time, so the pins got stuck, which then made increased an/or uneven wear.
thanks vor the vid anyway
Once the caliper heats up, those bores get slightly larger and the excess grease will seep out of its captive areas unless the pins have rubber seals which some in fact do.. Great video..
You can honestly have grease on the tip, IF... you make sure you can fully bottom out the pin in the caliper bracket BY HAND and have full travel with it, any excess grease will be pushed out into the slide pin boot and can be removed with cloth if you have too much excess, i actually prefer to have a good coating on the inside of the boot because i've worked on many cars where moisture got inside the boot and rusted away the pin around the boot seals and ruined it, just dont fill the caliper bracket holes and boot full of grease and slap it on, that grease can and will escape through any means necessary. Keep in mind the grease is used for both lubrication AND rust prevention on the slide pin so you dont want to underuse it either.
Great video. BUT, I don't agree 100% with the thought of it being over greased. Sure the pin will not push all the way into the cavity... but, it does not need to. You have a boot for one, then also the pin typically needs o be pulled out a bit to mate with the bracket. I find that when I have "over greased" the pins, that they are are still free when I change pads, versus when not. I also use Sta-Lube brake/caliper grease and not silicon. I do agree you should not have is packed on the tip and preventing the pin from completely collapsing the boot, but if the boot collapses, then you are good. That is part of the reason for the flat spots on the pin, to allow the grease to make its way back out. If you have a the pins with the rubber bushings, then yes, I agree 100% with your video as it will not allow the grease to ride along the shaft.
Mechanic of 40yrs, I use copper slip on slides, not greese, good vid for amatures who wana now how to do the job 👍
The reason to use silicone grease on these pins are because petroleum based grease will cause those rubber pin bushings to swell up thereby causing those pins to seize in the bores and also those rubber boots to become soft and rip as it reacts to petroleum grease
@@mikethompson35348:47 8:47 quindi il grasso a litio va bene?
It amazes me how often I miss obvious things. I have not once ever lubed a caliper slider pin, and to think I almost passed this video by. Appreciate the knowledge!
Thanks for watching !
Applying grease to pins seems to be an art that even few "professionals" discover.
Thank you. I knew there was a trick to it, just didn't know how to accomplish it.
Thanks for watching !
You can use brake fluid to
The fact that grease on the tip remains on the tip even after you pull it out tells me it serves absolutely no purpose on the tip. As you said, better to wipe it off even if it may not affect slide pin operation.
I always load up the grease on the heavy side and leave some on the tip - zero performance problems... and never had a pin seize. The pin does not bottom out, as it goes through caliper bracket first.
Wrong, Wrong and wrong. The caliper bracket does not affect the movement of the caliper on the pin. The extra grease will stop the correct movement by hydraulic action. As mine and so many others did and do. Thanks for these videos.
My dealer brake job failed due to too much grease. Who woulda' thunk. Pads had 2 mm +, indicators were not contacting rotor, BUT pins would not bottom, sucked back in and were very stiff almost seized or stuck. I thought there was a return spring in the boot by design. What I was seeing was the suction return as shown so well in this video. They are all well done, no stupid music, great camera work and lighting, clear and to the point. Well done! I also put a dab of grease on the lightly greased pin end and left grease in the boot, will correct before reassembly.
For the trolls: we watch these videos BECAUSE we don't know how to do a DIY. Why watch if a trained expert brake tech.? Duh. But as stated by others even the pros can learn a new tip. Trolls know every thing and can't be taught anything. I wish my high paid dealer tech had watched these videos. Would have saved me a vehicle prematurely up on stands.
I only learnt about greasing the pins in the last few years (I'm 50) . I thought I was doing it right but now I know I was over greasing them. I had signs of this too. 🤦♂️ Now to fix my errors. Thanks
Thanks for watching !
I just changed my front calipers. Now I will double check my slider pins to make sure no grease is on the tip. lol Great video! I wish I watched it BEFORE my installion. lol
Thanks for watching ! :)
Nice video. Also the thicker the grease the more likely to create vacuum. When i finish installing the caliper i lift the rubber boot with a screwdriver and sometimes it burps some air left.
Thanks !, good tip 👍
At first, I was thinking "9 minutes...for a vid on how to grease some caliper pins??" But then I watched the whole 9 minutes and learned some things. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great content. Of course there are going to be those who say, ‘hell I’ve been doing it my way for 25 years with no problems’ guys. Just because you’ve been doing it ‘your’ way doesn’t mean it’s been the correct way. Learn and grow from your mistakes..
Thanks for watching !
A dry test on a work bench, just isn´t the same a a brake working.
i sometimes did a bit much grease into the pins, what in this video was shown as problem, but the brakes just worked exactly fine. i think because there are much bigger forces working on a hydraulic, which presses the overfilled grease just away after a few brakings.
the tip of the pin is tapered, what allows grease to make it around the tip, and a break getting a little hot also fluids the grease even more.
So, it´s not too bad to have 20+ years experience on brakes.
in real world, time is an issue, a brake work usually contains a lot of cleaning, what is time consuming and the pins just have to work properly, what they do as long they are lubricated with a non hardening and enough lube.
I have experience with especially vintage cars after 20+ years, when brakes aren´t shiny any more, and i always brought them back to life.
The pin explanation was very goof, but there are way more details on brakes, which are perhaps more important. the moving parts all have to move freely, tha spacings have to be right, the stuff used has to withstand it´s specific environments, chemicals, temperatures.
So in verdict. I de asseble the whole brake caliper, get the pistons out, the bracket the shims, everything, give it a decent clean and then put it back together.
here in germany the TÜV then measures the brakes if they work fine on both sides equal, and they did every single time, after i did a brake job on a vintage brake system.
so blaming people for doing it perhaps a little different for decades than a youtube guy, doesn´t nevessarily mean they´re wrong.
in fact, most garages do a shit job on brakes. every old car i bought to use myself, i had to redo the freshly made brakes again.
they are all in a hurry and didn´t clean much.
When a brake gets stuck, they just sell a new brake part, that´s it. That way they make more money too.
i worked in a garage myself.
here the last car i bought, with fresh brakes done, me doing it again, because they worked like shit.
i am not far off, but i am much faster servicing that pins, and i do a little grease outside the booth too, to seal the gaps and avoid any water to make it past the seal.
th-cam.com/video/C7aacztPVMo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mn8Z4uhh3E2cCYYM&t=1256 (anoying music makes my videos ad free btw, and non monetizable for ever.)
And the caliper braket was rusted as hell, that much that the pads got stuck, so i gave it a good clean (off camera) as my vice is somewhere else.
you see a cleaned pad caliper holder, doesn´t know the term for that part in english, sorry.
This is some of the best photography I've seen on TH-cam. Great job great lighting very up. Close great great photography thank you so much.
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
Honestly prefer video guides like this, simple, straight to the point, and easy to follow. Hoping to see more from your channel!
Thanks for watching !
I always use Molybdenum Disulphide grease, commonly called Molyslip or CV grease, on the slider pins.
It's rated much higher than silicone grease for pressure, is kind to rubber, sticks to metals and is extremely water resistant. I have never once had a slider pin seize with Molyslip.
If it's good enough to cope with the severe load conditions inside a driveshaft CV joint, then it's easily up to the task of lubricating and protecting a slider pin.
One thing I will recommend is never to use copper grease. It is an abrasive that will wear through steel, causing the slider pin holes and the rubber boots to wear unevenly.
but CV grease boils at 150°C and the brake system on average reaches 600°C... copper grease exceeds 1000°C and prevents clogging..
Excellent and very helpful. I had an issue getting a pin out - I assumed rust ... but it was an air suction issue now that I have watched you video TY
Thanks for watching !
Thanks for looking into this malpractice. However, if you need the slide pin to sit all the way, you got other things to worry about.
The ticker the brake lining (pad+rotor+pad), the further out the pin sits! Therefore, the only time a pin would fully sit is when the lining is completely worn already
Also, the excess grease would momentarily hydrolock the pin and can definitely be felt by hand, but this is no match for brake caliper clamping force. Therefore, the grease would escape the bore and into the boot, swelling it up and might pop it.
I tend to over grease so i push on the pin for grease to leak out and just burp out the air and excess grease from the boot.
Most seized pins and uneven pad wear i come across are from lack of lubrication. Have yet to see that wear condition with hydro locked pins🤔
Your insertion and all work is so smooth😂😂😂 reminds me of classic intimate videos.
That gets a solid 10/10!! I wish all DIY videos were this well. Thank you because that just removed every doubt I had about how to lube the pins and why. 🥇
Thanks for watching !
Probably the best video I have seen on the subject. Thanks!!!
You're very welcome, Thanks for watching !
Much respect,Sir! This just might be the best tutorial on the Internet regarding this subject
Thanks for watching ! :)
After some time and observation your spot on pal. These calliper s are vacuumed over in a lot off cases. I see lots just dry up. Some lubes are poor. I now check that the pin has full travel and remains in any position without vacuuming or hydraulic action limiting or acting upon it.
I re do it twice a year, always when I swap summer to winter tires and vice versa. I do always a break job, take the pins and pads off, clean them with break cleaner, some sand paper and break clean again and finally relube them. And always sand the inner and outer brakedisc surface, as well as the inner rim surface and bearing hub, I slightly grease them too with break grease same Inuse for the pins. Especially as pre winter treatment because of the salt.
Well...I may have just made a mistake. I saw another TH-camr recommend packing that hole with silicone grease so I did just that. Now I may have to removed the pins, clean out the hole and do it the way you just did. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for watching !
Good advice here, and I'm glad I watched the video. One question though - doesn't the boot prevent the pin from moving all the way in anyway?
Thanks! Ive done it wrong for 30+ years. :). Gonna fit new pads tomorrow and grease the pins correctly from now on.
Thanks for watching !
Proper high temp brake grease is a silicone based PTFE lubricant. It can be placed on the back of the brake pads were the touch the piston or caliper frame with no ill effect to brake pads. I would prefer the proper amount but unfortunately 8 of 10 never get greased at all.
ASE Master 78.
Its always the simple videos that gives the best advice. Thank you sir!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Great channel that I just found. Thank you for not adding annoying music!
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Excellent video. Very informative you showed what worked you showed what didn't work.
У нас в России принято, "мало смазки не бывает", и поэтому каждый пытается в любую дырку забить её больше, полезное видео, благодарю🤝
Thanks for watching !
Ah that’s what I was doing wrong!!! Thank you mate. I am off out now to do it again. Great video and typed guidance/information. I found the silence helped with absorbing everything. I’ve subscribed 👍 Keep up the great work
Thanks for watching !
I dont know why this crossed my path? I am working on my breaks currently , i guess we are always being watched..
If something is free for you to use, YOU are the product.
Big brother is just helping out
Another good tip for people that don't take care of their vehicles. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Oops, I too need to redo my brakes and remove excess grease. Great, very helpful video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching !
Today i understand that how important the deep knowledge is ❤️
Just awesome video 👍
Thank you !
very informative. I'd like to see different style pins (rubber on the tip especially) with different clearance guides tested for more conclusive results. I have one problem with your claim that the pin not pushing in all the way could be the reason for uneven wear... The floating caliper is designed to retract those pins in operation not to push them in. Plus the forces involved are so high I doubt the grease will stop it or disturb it's operation in any meaningful way as opposed to just getting pumped out thru the clearance ways. If you can point to a specific situation where it would be a problem we could discus this but from what I understand as a technician if the caliper piston is in working condition the fact that you put too much grease in the pin holes should not matter in the context of even wear even if you have completely new rotors and pads. Please point out the holes in my logic so I can learn.
I usually check if it's too much grease by installing the pin and boot and see if the boot can push the pins back up smoothly when I press down the pin and let it go.
Applying a thin layer of grease caused it to stick again on the next interval..
Wow! This video has Studio level quality.
That's what i needed to see for years.
Thanks a lot for your efforts
Great job great video
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
Well... I've been doing this wrong for years. Thank you.
Very true. Too much is as bad as not enough.
I'm curious...do you "burp" the slider dust boot after installing the pins? I find that if you get all the air out it creates a suction effect. I prefer my pins to have a little back pressure to push the pads back into place, as long as the pin head is able to touch the caliper it's all good. When I put the pins back I just make sure the pins push in and out with ease. 👍👍
Just lubed my caliper slides today! Didn't know if I put too much or little.
Тот случай, когда "очень хорошо" совсем не хорошо. Спасибо за видео!
Thanks for watching !
Some how i feel this video was inspired by ETCG brake videos he did back in 2010’s
Not sure I agree, but those older ETCG videos was great. Loved the channel back then and watched all of it.
Worth checking on any new caliper or caliper bracket. Some come pre greased, some don't, I've even had pins seized in new brackets right out of the box.
Excellent video. Very thorough and helpful. Thanks you saved me money !
You're welcome !
The caliper slide pin would never go in all the way so you don't have to worry about it. The rubber boots and the thickness of the pads make it stick way out
Very helpful video. Some of the best tips around.
Thanks for watching !
One of best informative video I have seen. Thank you
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Thanks a lot sir 😮,my car is the autoshop put too much grease on the pin causing the brake pads to wear differently on both sides,and the wear on the inside is worse 😅
Thanks for watching !
Dry brake pins can cause a phantom clunk in the front or the rear end over bumps from the caliper pins rattling around on the carrier. Pack the pins full of grease to shut them up. I have even seen china brake pads that need extra shims these days.
Sanding and cleaning ALL contact surfaces first is crucial before lubing.
Wow. I learned a lot. I've definitely been applying too much grease
Thanks for watching!
I appreciate your knowledge that you share with us in this video, thank you very much. Blessings
You're very welcome, thanks !
This is one of the most overlooked thing- putting too much grease on the tip of the pin. This happened to me (thank me) and my caliper was stuck due to the suction pressure resulting in fast wearing brake pads.
Great video. Many thanks. Quick novice question. Before I get to greasing the pins, should the leftover grease from the previous greasing be cleaned out from the bore hole? If so - what’s the best way to get that out? Also, should grease be put on the rubber boot to keep it supple and if so - should one use the same grease type? Hope you can clear that up for me. Did my first brake job recently and am trying to learn.
Thanks. Yes you should remove the old grease from the bores. You can use brake cleaner spray and a small pipe cleaner to clean them out. You could probably put a little bit of the same grease inside the boot but I wouldn't smear it on the outside of the boots. It would probably attract a lot of dirt and debris.
@@screwsnutsandbolts Hey great reply. Thank you. That was very helpful.
You're welcome !
I smelled burning brakes before on my vehicle and then when I was driving home I couldn't stop the vehicle. Luckily I was in stop and go traffic got off on the side street parked it got a tow home. Now my brake calipers have seized and leaked I will be using this video to replace all of them
Life saver ! thanks for the show it saves my life !
Thanks for watching !
Thanks for this great video, never new that and now have to re do the greasing job!
Thanks for watching !
No way.
This makes too much sense.
Well done & explained . Like now I know how to do this correctly.
Thanks for watching !
I didn't know that about removing the boots prior to lubing the pins thank you
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
Thanks so much for this. The algorithm knows I'm doing a brake job soon I swear.
Just a few questions, how would I clean the old grease out of the caliper. Swear it's been there for decades without a clean and don't want to mix that with new grease.
Also, do you have a video or advise on anti seize or lubing different parts of a pad, or shims? Thank you!
You're welcome. You can clean the old grease out using brake cleaning spray and a pipe cleaning brush like in this video: th-cam.com/video/8A-6f7kqOIk/w-d-xo.html
This video gives good advice on lubing the shims etc: th-cam.com/video/sKrD8RoqRqk/w-d-xo.html
@@screwsnutsandbolts Thanks very much, very helpful mate. Earned a sub.
Great content. I learned today.
Need to do this with my ride asap.
Thanks for watching !
Excellent video on this subject! 100% perfect! Thank you!!👍
Thank you !
Greasing can also be the problem. I find that the silicone grease gums up. BMW manuals specifically state to clean but not grease.. So not all systems are the same. I find silicone does not resist heat well.. or most synthetic grease. I prefer ceramic grease
TH-cam University served me well again
Brakes applied, pulls sliders out? When brakes released the suction will help pull caliper off the pads 😂 mine must be well worn as I put loads of grease on and they operate nicely... well... I think they do
Awesome video! Silence is golden.
Thanks for watching !
Where can i find this silicone ???@@screwsnutsandbolts
Outstanding demo!
As the old saying goes, the devil is in the details… And, the details are the part of the job most often neglected.
Thanks for watching !
would be nice to see:
- how can you remove an extra greese
- how can you check if ping works correctly or you need replacement
Thanks for a great explanation. Now I understand. Thank you.
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
This, internal Failure in the Brake caliper and not greasing the contact points are the most common fails on doing brakes.
we use antisieze instead of grease. it lasts longer and will repel water and take the load.
I’m re-doing mine now and that stuff dried up…gonna use some form of grease this time
Great video, thank you! Question: does this technic apply as well for the pin with the rubber gasket near then end (the one you usually found on the front calipers)?
Thank you, yes it does. Just make sure you use a silicone-based grease that is rubber friendy. Petroleum-based greases can cause that rubber gasket to swell up and cause problems.
Thank you very much for this video !!!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching !
My respects buddy, great video keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Dude I'm not here to say this is not the right or wrong way but if you ask any certified trained or ASE technician they'll tell you there is almost no wrong or right way to grease the pin. I work at a few dealership and we just spread the grease on the pin and some will pack a little grease inside the caliper and on the pin and call it a day. Never had any issue or hear of any in the years I worked at the dealership.
please make moar car maintenance videos. this is really informative content
great tip, thank you for making this video, very informative
You're welcome, thanks for watching !
They work the same with rubber boot installed
New subscribe from this video. Best one I've seen on this topic
Thank you !
I can agree on the overgreasing part. Cannot agree on what you point out as the correct way to grease. I do believe that shows lack of engineering knowledge, which is understandable from a mere mechanic.
What happens in the real life is that if you grease with so little grease, you will quickly get excessive wear, and the brake calipers will start knocking really annoyingly on uneven roads.