Block Sanding Bondo For 2K Primer!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2024
- Block Sanding Bondo and Body Filler for Primer is NOT and easy Job! It's all in the hands on this situation! My Friend Pete shows us how to HAND SAND Bondo without using any air tools and prep it up so we can apply our 2K Primer. Using the proper sanding blocks and the right grit sandpaper will make this job easy and simple!
#Bondo #HandSanding #DiyAutoSchool
Contact Pete at:
www.swrnc.com or 972-420-1293
Automotive plastic body filler, often times called "Bondo," is used quite frequently for automotive repairs and restorations. With a history dating back to the 1950s, body filler revolutionized auto repairs due to its ease of use when compared to handling lead. Now, body filler is considered a superior option for fixing those small dings or holes or to smooth warped panels.
Dura Block Kits:
www.dura-block...
Dynatron Dynalite Body Filler
www.3m.com/3M/...
Mirka SandPapers:
www.mirka.com/...
Block Sanding is HARD WORK but it's got to be done.. Practice Makes Perfect so keep sanding away! Leave a comment below if you have any tech tips for making the job easier!
throws the not paint ready paper airplane at the family whiner.... Pontiac lookin sweet
It looks like you know what you are doing...I am shocked
Practice makes perfect keep practicing petee you need it.....
Your channel rocks, this is a very vital source of information for my 65 Catalina. My first restoration project
Could add the narration in later. When you are editing, so you are always wearing the safety equipment. That way my friend Pete will live longer to do more videos. Totally selfish I know, but that's just the way I am. LOL
Wow just wow, this was a fantastic sanding hack job you did on that GTO ! Ive watched your video's for over 8 years, and you have taught me how to do body and paint the right way, thank you sir.
Pete, one more thing buddy-i thought i new a bit about bodywork until i started watching your channels 7 to 8 years ago and i stopped searching right then for how to's panel & body videos on TH-cam as the first lesson learn't worked a treat.I truly want to thank you Pete for all your efforts ( and Minnie ! ) as they have not gone in vein much love and god bless to both of you. :)
Thanks Mopar Man! Good luck to all your projects...
These things are done by people, nothing mythical, or secret, just hard work, and know how. Thanks to Pete here, showing us the tools and technique, on how to do it. Auto body can quickly turn into a situation where you create waaay more work for yourself than needed, and next thing you know you're just chasing your tail getting nowhere.
Loved this vidéo, no swearing or yelling , Pète you are a great teacher.
Bob never go into the work area of body shop with your snowflake mentality... The cursing will blow ya right back out the doors... Especially with the new products coming out this year from EVERCOAT is buying up all the 3M patents and ruining the industry.. Not to mention marginal body repairs will start costing ya the moon & stars.. I've spent the last 14 days cursing spitting fire because I cannot get a single roll of 3M 2 sided tape to work and stick to the new paint. We have 4 vehicles stuck here and shit to work with...
Thanks Pete.....your work ethic translates over to about any task one undertakes in life. This world needs many more Petes. If Minnie and you are ever in Triangle, VA.....dinner is on me!
Pete is giving expert advice. These are the same techniques I used on my 1933 Ford 5 Window coupe and it came out GREAT.
Absolutely one of the nicest/best videos I've seen from you Pete! and I've been subscribed and watching nearly all the videos you put out for years. No shouting being the biggest improvement, your always helpful and good at showing the reality of how much work it takes and what it takes to do a good job, you really have taught me a lot through the years I have been doing bodywork you have a good way of showing the important things to look out for. Thank you very much for the lesson but please stop yelling because it is so nice to watch this video and hear you talk absolutely as i wished you would and know you can. I know Minnie would love it also. Happy for the new place, can't wait to see you start setting up the place inside.
NEVER USE BONDO.... BONDO SHRINKS DRAMATICALLY OVER TIME AND CRACKS LIKE A BASTARD IN JUST A YEAR OR TWO...
@@thekingsilverado9004 what do you use ?
@@maryfinchum9741 I start with the UPOL sort hair fiberglass. I used to USED the Diamond Advantage regular mud... Nothing has replaced that yet and it is no longer avail. Called an order in July... Nothing came NCS does not handle it anymore it was made by EVERCOAT. I am in a real pissing contest with NCS NATIONAL COLOR SYSTEMS 4 getting a decent priced light weight mud. I used to swear by a few others too but they turned to shit... Not much on the market for decent sanding decent spreading mud AT THEE MOMENT... Everything that is like that is above 50 bucks a gallon at the moment which is not cost effective for what I do...
not only are you a great teacher you're the only teacher no one else out there explains this crap that's going to happen when you're going back and forth and putting a ton of coats on only someone that is trying to do it will understandlove your videos they make me not get discouraged and keep going
This is good. You showed everyone that just having the blocks is not the answer. It takes a lot of thought and knowing that you can't just rely on the tools to do all the work. You have to get in there and take care of all the minor details. Some of these shows make everything look like it takes 5 minutes to do all the work you just showed that it is a LOT of work.
This bloke is a champion, seriously good information when you're new to the game. Filler snaps quick on a 39 c day.
Quick and easy I don’t think so but, your videos are instructional. I do enjoy the fact that you stress the importance of patience. What I would like to hear from you is when you change your grit of paper on your blocks and the amount of sanding you’re doing and what you are feeling with your hands. I am highly mechanically trained and am a newbie at bodywork. I’ve subscribe to your page and look forward to your responses.
Pete, you are the man! I love your old school no BS style. You are the professor of old school body work.
Thanks Pete your tips and tricks are working, I have a long way to go before I master mud work, Right now corners where multiple contours join cause me troubles but I am getting there. With your tips and tricks I have successfully completed mud work on two black cars and pleased the toughest person in the shop's expectations another car with a contoured body line on a hood didn't come out as good as I wanted but two estimators couldn't find the imperfection. Thank you for all the time and effort into making these videos, I sure am learning something
Yes it takes a lot of time all body men go through the same thing but that is the magic that everyone sees in the end results makes the painter looks good. It's good to know what color you are going to paint it beforehand so you know how much time you need to put in the best. You can make your own body sanding tools is what I did for all the round corners like Pete was saying you can't put to much in it like trying to over sand I've done that way to many time's I prime and see what stands out with the spray water bottle if you can't see it when it's wet then no one else will see what you see. I got caught up in that because I know what's there I paid to much attention to that area what no one else seen or even knows one's the prime and paint is on. Only you know where most of the work was done if I'm making any sence. Even car's that came off the assembly line were not ripple free.
one more comment, this is one of the only videos I have seen that covered hand sanding of body filler. Yes I could learn by my mistakes and have done so but....these videos have saved me hours on my Mopar restorations. Pete you are the best and thanks you for taking time out of your day to post these videos
This is the magic part that no one likes to do but this is what people see when the car truck is all done how straight it looks that's the body man that makes the painter looks good.
Just want to say that I love your videos. I'm trying to learn how to do this work because it was always something I wanted to learn. I taught myself to be a mechanic but this is much harder to me. Nothing could make up for experience but I'm always trying to improve and your videos are a true inspiration. It's so great to learn from experts like yourself and the internet makes it possible. Thank you!
Another appreciative viewer Pete! Your real world experience is so helpful. The countless hours you have spent creating this content is so valuable. I am tempted to speed up playback sometimes but I would miss those "Pete Pearls"! Putting a mug on my Christmas List!
I am doing the same type of body work. Sometimes I get to where I feel like giving up but I go back and watch the videos and have Pete yelling don't be a quitter then I give it he'll again
I just want to say thanks for paying it forward 🙏. Your vids are so helpful and motivating. I like how you tell it how it is...and don't really endorse overpriced brands.
I been doing my mother's 57 belair first at this .that lil trick with polyester and bonds mixing sure helps I never knew 😊
Pure old school artist. Like you and Minnie too.
I plan on doing a lot of my own body work on my Chevelle I spent most of my adult life as a Auto Mechanic, not too much body work in my life except when I built my stock car for the Roundy round track, but now I am doing a restore and want to do all or most of the body work myself, fortunately the body is very straight and no rust that I have found on any of the panels but I am sure there will be my share of sanding and stripping of the old paint, I do have to replace the lower panel on my right side quarter but that is about it, have been watching your channel and it has been a very good learning lesson, "ELBOW GREASE" but it has to be done, I hope to do all the main work myself, thanks for this block of lesson. I look forward to more of your lessons, thanks again for your videos .
Awesome. Block sanding is an art from. I like to change the angle of my light source to catch dings and level issues as well. I've got a fraction of Pete's skills....but I learn more every day from this fellow.
Pete , you remind me of a DI I had in boot, back in early nineties. Good times.
I’ve started mixing icing with my grip filler for the last couple coats of filling and it’s been great! Really helps level it out to save sanding
Pete you are Awsome you are the difference between a body shop that just wants to get it done and out were you do it the right way so when the car leaves your shop you can say its done right and they always look Awsome.love your videos ill keep watching
Great video man! I will watch this one a few times! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
What a artist I can respect talent
Keep kicking ass and taking names Pete. From the corn fields of Illinois. We love ya bro
DUDE! love yur luv of skill. I have the same disease! My big repair issue now is a CURVED roof on a truck, or any vehicle for that matter. I keep filling and sanding, but I keep repeating myself. I go high, I go low. Enuf. TIPS!
Thanks for the vid my friend Pete. I'm doing the job right and getting it done. I'm doing a 62 Sunliner and it needs lots of rust repair. I found you when you did a trunk extension of a 62 Galaxie. Been watching your videos since. Don't listen to the haters. BTW, I look great in my SWRNC T-shirt!
The music had me rolling! Thanks Pete.
This is help me so much I don’t have anything that dose this to help me but am try my best to do it right thanks for toy videos !!!
Thank you for your knowledge. You have answered so many questions.
Your a master of your craft bud
the videos dont stop till you know everything!!!!!! love it
Hey Pete. Did you stop at 80 grit or should you go to a finer grit like 120 or 180 prior to laying down the 2 K? Nice work by the way and thanks!!
You do things just like my dad did old school .. I didn't get a chance to learn everything from him before he passed but I feel comfortable taken your advice I watch a lot of videos of people doing this and they are doing everything he told me not to do I think you are the only one I don't hear him saying don't do that son he is a dumb ass lmao anyways thanks for taking the time to show the old school / right way to do things I'm just now getting back I to it and it helps a lot!!!
Thanks, this helped a lot. I've been wet sanding and also taking too much filler off requiring additional filler...over and over again.
Just got to watch this one and it was one of the best how to videos I've seen, thanks
So i found that were your hand sanding with your fingers i went down to the dollar tree and got a pool noodle and cut it down to small rounds and cut it into quarters its med density and it works fantastic for those little dips and curves i also found that the foam pads to kneel on work better than the black blocks from the auto shop plus you can cut them to any size you need and there only a 1.25
Good video. I've been doing custom paint for more than 30-years. My dad taught me a long time ago a saying "When metal pops, sanding stops". I also never finger sand. I make small blocks to work the area. It's not real hard to make them. Just cut down some of the small black dense foam blocks for the size you need.
Good work there Pete. I think the hardest thing to get the hang of is when your block sanding the filler and you have a shiny metal spot show up when the rest of the area is still rough. Hard to tell if the shiny place is a high place that needs tapped down or if that place is the correct height and everything around it just needs more filler. Thanks, Tom
Thanks Pete, How are the high spots on the primered fenders fixed? Hammer and dolly and filler? Keep up the good work.
This is a really important video. Eyes, ears, and mind, open.
Great tutorial Pete, many thanks.👍
I miss angry Pete. Thanks for taking the time to share your skills, it seems we are seeing less and less of that.
Thanks TH-cam.. And I get more views when I don't Cuss!
I so wish I saw this video years ago. My car had an inch deep crease all the way down it from front to back. I pulled it out and spent days filling and sanding, eventually I worked out I needed a long block so I attached paper to a length of wood, that kind of worked as the panels were very flat. Here in the UK I cannot even see these blocks for sale.
your show has help me a lot im working on 65 galaxie restore
I had a bunch of questions at the beginning of the video but you answered most of them during the video. I always wondered if all of the hand sanding that I was doing could be done with power tools, just could not see how. It was nice to see that maybe I was not wrong. I do however wonder if you have tried different brands of block sanders and if you have an opinion about differences in quality and workability. Thanks again for a great video.
Hi. Great video. You differentiate between “Bondo” and “polyester filler” but I’m not sure I understand the difference. I thought Bondo was polyester, no?
Editing is getting so good !!!
Great job
Youve done good metal work Pete , very thin filler coats on that car. Love those old pontiacs , they look like the Australian zd fairlane. Ford realy got those looking great . Great video Pete, should help a lot of restorers out. Thanks for another great video mate.
The car was down to bare metal then bondo was applied and a sandable primer over it which allowed you to sand and fix more imperfections, would you apply an epoxy primer over everything as a sealer before paint or would a sealer not be needed?
I was thinking epoxy primer should go over the bondo and bare metal, but if you find more imperfections you can't sand it, I'm confused when epoxy primer should be used
Cool Pete refresher never hurt anyone W.L.L !!
Nice work Pete, I mark low spots with circles and high spots with Xs, works good.
Great job Pete
So I can put a high build primer over 80 grit sandpaper, or did you go a step finer before applying? I'm currently block sanding my 89 240sx to recieve a primer and I've been told that I need to go to a 300+ grit in order to hide any scratches caused by sanding. Been using 120 grit so far!
Thanks Pete!
Very good video. You are working professional.
Looking forward to seeing you working from your new place
Thank you for making these videos
Hi Pete thanks to you I can paint now so just letting you know your work is making a difference around the world! Someone told me to add resin ie fiberglassed resin to body filler to make it runnier, do you do this? Take care, Dave from uk
THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS AND KNOWLEDGE JUST WONDERING DID YOU GET THE QUARTER PANNAL HASH OUT ON THE CAMARO
A LOT of work to do it right....this is how it's done. Great Vid
The best DIY video out there.
Thanks for the tips and lessons from your years of experience!
Hey wow. You look fine Without your hat. Have a good day. Sir. Just respect thanks for your skilled. Talented and hard work. That you post for us to learn how to do it properly. Love them. I do. From Calgary Alberta Canada. Brother
Good video Pete on prepping it got one question would you skim coat that area with a lite coat of it.
Question on my 70 nova door jams. Poly primer ,or 2k after epoxy coating? or both?
Is any polyester filler good? Also Pete, what would you say your dry time is 45° vs. 95°?
I use a product similar to Evercoat Metal Works Putty. As for drying time I wait approx 30 minutes to 45 minutes.. Thats why I always travel from side to side of the car so Im not sitting around doing nothing....
Why do you keep calling it Bondo if your not using Bondo brand?
Great video Pete! My kind right there.
Thanks Pete, I have a question, now that you have bare metal again after doing the bondo work will the bare metal areas have to be sealed with epoxy primer or can the 2K primer surfacer be used even if it’s not DTM? Again Thanks Pete for all the information you put out for us to learn.
You can buy metal prep wipes such as AutoBond if you do not want to re epoxy the bare metal.... Otherwise you will need something to give the primer some bite
@@thistledewoutdoors3331 So on bare metal we need to use something before the primer?
@@snoopy5736 no just make sure it is clean no oil dust, if you want to leave it bare metal for a a little time then there is bare metal wipes you put on it so rust does not grow over night. If you leave bare metal over night it will look brown in the morning that's why you have to cover it with something even tape paper over it if you can. You can not leave bare metal over night or your going to have to sand your metal again for primer or feather filler is some thick stuff that gives you more sanding ability so you don't hit metal and it helps cover small scratches then you can lay your skim coat on top of it to sand out any scratches it's a long process but in the end you will be happy with the results the more prep before paint the better it will look.
Is the polyster filler a glaze or a filler?
I watch all your videos,,,,great stuff.
Great work Pete!
Good afternoon I love your videos and also I am a car guy who likes working on my own Vehicles here and there I just painted a truck last summer I've sat on it without touching it to these following months I plan on fixing some runs that I have on the clear coat I wanted your expert advice the runs are in the areas that are hard to sand because it's not a flat surface it's creases in the body my initial thought was sending down the clear coat till we got flat and giving it another shot of clear coat is that possible or is there going to be any type of chemical reaction due to the clear coat being fairly new should I just send everything down and give it a shot of paint first and then clear-coated my only problem with that is it's a two tone paint and I would hate to buy more paint since one of the Colts which is white is actually okay it's in the blue part of the paint job where I got the runs let me know what you think I would appreciate your input thank you very much
I would take a small peice of 400 wet and lightly sand only the run, focusing on trying to rid it from exsistants without sanding any of the clear, a good tool to use on this is break a paint stick to a small 1 or 2 inch piece and then wrap some 4oo grit around it, then use the edges of the stick to eliminate the run, once youve done this go over it with 1500 then 3000 wet and you should be ok.. By using the paint stick method you'll only sand the run and not the clear around it.. Sometimes you'll have to leave a small bit of the run there but it will camoflauge itself in when you buff it out.. Good lUck!
Thanks Pete very good video and still learning
Can you give an example of the polyester you are mixing with the bondo?
The polyester Im mixing with it is similar to Evercoat metal glaze putty -- www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/metal-glaze-3569/paint---body-repair-16614/body-repair-25202/fillers---plastic--fiberglass---metal-17765/539cc89349b5/evercoat-metal-glaze-glazing-putty/416/4299767...
what kind of polyester filler should I get?
Question. When do you media / soda bast vs. painting on top of the original paint? I have a 66 Impala SS, that needs resto.
If the car has never been painted before and has the orginal paint and it's in very good shape you can skip the media blasting.. If the car has extensive body damage, surface rust, and/or has been painted before then you should remove the old paint to metal and start over..
Tried mixing icing (poly) with my 3m platinum, shit started smoking and caught fire!!! KIDDING, frigging budda buddy!! Great tip thank you!!!
Great Job! your advice is as value as a gold
Bando or filler over bare metal? Or epoxy first and then bando or filler?
Bondo over bare metal
Thank you Sir. Just what I needed to see.
My friend pete I see were some people are saying the bare metal should be primered before bondo because bondo won't adhere to the metal what is your take on this?
Old days was bare metal(mechanical bond),these days is epoxy primer first for Bondo work(chemical bond). Will still work with bare metal but preferably done for full restos with epoxy.
Good job. Little Petee
Great vid, Pete!
Does the primer fill those 80 grit scratches?
Primer can & will fill in 80 grit with an additional coat or 2 if your primer gun tip/needle size is less than 1.8.... But,, I suggest sanding in a "X" pattern to eliminate any grooves that you'll get with sanding in 1 particular direction... Also,, If you do a final sand with 180 before primer - It also helps make life easier...
@@thistledewoutdoors3331 Thanks! Is there a concern that a 2k or epoxy primer will shrink and the cross cross sanding marks will come back?
@Israel Kelley thank you Israel! That's what I was wondering.
What part of Texas are you in Pete
For the hand sanding area couldn't use a soft flat block to sand it?
At the end of the video were those front fenders in primer?
Where do I get that sa d paper , I got dura blocks and I'm new to this paint shit
Great video! Be sure to wear a mask so you aren't sucking in that dust.
Great Video.
Good instructions
Rather then using 36 grit to take off the waxy surface, wet a rag with lacquer thinner. That will remove that waxy surface. Sanding polyester bondo mix with 36 is too aggressive, it cuts fast yes, but too deep too fast. The straighter and the more rigid the sanding block the truer straight result you will get. A rigid straight block will not lie, it will cut straight and will quickly show the highs and lows.
If you wipe that top of that Bondo off a little lack of thinner on a rag and take that on hardened tacky code off the top and won't clog you sandpaper
Rock on Pete.... 😊
You are a master thank you sir.
After first layer of body filler is sanded, before applying next layer do you wipe with dry rag or solvent
No, just blow it off and keep going.