My friend and I recently did the body work on a Cobra (the old one from the 60's). Not a flat surface anywhere. We found that a pool noodle (you know the foam things kids use in the pool to float on?) as a sanding block works REALLY well. A piece about a foot long will take the full length of a sheet of paper and works really well to sand around the contours in multiple directions at the same time. You can hold it on an angle to conform to any shape. Dirt cheap too so you cat any length you want.
I found when you hit the metal to remove a high spot after you applied bondo to the metal it causes the bondo to come lose from vibration around the high spot. You should make sure the metal has no high spots before bondoing initially, or apply a thicker layer to start with.
Hey pete greetings from Canada, I really like your videos they are full of very useful info especially like the ones on working metal, slinging mud and blocking it off. Ive done a fair bit of bodywork on my own project ,its nice to I had most of what i was doing right as I had no one to teach me had to figure it out on my own anyway keep them videos coming and wish you all the best
If you are block sanding and you have a low spot identified by the guide coat, can you apply filler over the guide coat or must you remove the guide coat first?
Hi ya Pete--guide coat has helped me spot imperfections. Just did a trunk lid on my TA, that was as good as it gets from factory sheet metal. It looked great. Applied a dusting of flat black (cheap) rattle can paint and spotted several low points many of which were located near the edges of the trunk lid. I would have missed these, assuming the trunk lid was in near perfect shape. After sanding, it is nearly perfect. Never assume a body panel is straight. Meticulous body work can make it better than original. Thanks again for your help...you're a good guy Pete.
Pete cracks me up with the price of the spray paint ....... It's .89 cents.... Then .86 cents ........ Then 87. Thanks for teaching and entertaining like no other, brother!
Pete I had found some high spots on a 56 belair rear 1/4 after guide coat. I really had to bang it downw both sides of body hamer. Is that because 56 metal is alot thicker than a karmen kia? Your the best.
Only lightly tapping on the high area just enough to stretch and shrink the metal is all you want.. If you have to use the hammer and dolly to the extreme of cracking the bondo then the dent should have been noticeable before applying bondo.. This is just for very minor stuff...
Hey Now my friend pete What have you done to your right hand driving finger's nail? Did you close a door on it like I did to mine last week? Robert in niagara falls wants to know!
I live in northern Illinois if its not a rotten piece of shit, I'm the second owner its been banged up and some poor body work done. Thanks to your videos Pete she starting to look nice. One all redone 8-10 grand I bought mine for 200 bucks
Pete, Thanks for the tips. I have two questions. 1. It seems like when I tap a small high spot down, that's in the center of a filled area, the spot right next to it, that was correct, is now high. I find myself chasing it across the panel. What am I doing wrong? 2. When using guide coat and you have found your low spots and a few air bubbles. Do you sand the air bubbles out and the remaining guide coat off? Thanks in advance and sorry for dumb questions.
Hi David, when you bump the dent out run a file across the panel before you bondo that will show you your highs and lows, no dont rub your guide coat out and air bubbles coz this will make it even lower. I would use a hammer and dolly to tap your highs down but dont use the point of the hammer. Been doing this work for 47 years and i know. I like to metal finish my work without bondo, but that takes many years to learn. All the best from Australia.....
Hey Pete do you have any ideas or advice for a peeling bumper? The chrome is peeling off my bumper and there aren't any places that rechrome near me and shipping costs would be as high that I could replace them. Any ideas to paint it or any sprays or anything.
Pete, Just to let you know. your vids have been instrumental in my restoration of my 65 Rambler American Convertible. i have never done auto body work. but with your vids i can say that my Job on the car looks Tits!!i have gone panel by panel taking my time and i have even amazed myself. im restoring this car to original Condition , even spending a lot of coin with the back interior side panels with Just dashes and the original door panels die electric and seat covers embossed from SMS AUTO fabrics up in Oregon. I figure with the Money im saving on Body and Paint i can spend in other areas to get the car as originall as possible!! I did get an estimate from a body shop before. bid came in at $12, 535.00 for body work and paint. i actually spent $755.00 on tools and supplies $450.00 on Primer and Acrylic Enamel paint. i, painting it back the original single stage. i know.....but i w ant the car to look as original as i can. the car will be garaged!! I enjoy very much your tremendous educational Videos and thanks for all the advice!!!!!! from Tony in Fremont Ca .. Silicon Valley.!!!!!
Hey Pete, I love your videos man just wanted to let you know.... I have a 1993 Ford Bronco I’m working on and would love to see you fabricate some drip rails for it. Also the floor boards are not rust out but have some surface rust here and there. What is the best product to use to protect the floor pans without stripping them down to bare metal. Can I spray epoxy primer on them with out stripping them down to bare metal?
Man. I dig your style a lot. Don't change a bit except for some excessive coursing, you do great!!! Btw, I would use 3M dry guide coat instead. Regards
Hi Pete, Good advice as always, At the restoration company I worked at we used a dry fine black powder rather than paint for filler guide coating, It was brilliant- no waiting for drying and didn't clog up paper, I cant for the life of me remember what it was called though!, It came in a round plastic tub and there was a foam pad in the lid that you put the shit on the panel with, dunno if youve come across it, but worth looking out for. Take care, J.
I know what your talking about, 3M makes it, you can buy it at your local paint and body shop supply store.. Ive never used it because Ive always just used the flat black spray paint, but Ive heard the dry powder works really well.. Thanks for the TECH TIPS AND HELPFUL HINTS!
A good guide coat works great but I don't like to use spray cans cause they are enamel and can contaminate your finished paint job.i prefer to use black etch primer in a spray gun you can get a more even aplication and ajust how heavy you want your aplication
Since this is the Final Filler Coat of bondo, I use 36 grit,, once I apply the final coat of polyester/bondo then I will use 80 grit then 180 to finish it out..
I've actually done it.... painted a whole car with 15 cans of Walmart grey primer. And it looked pretty good. Better than what was underneath it anyway. I used it to drive to work at a bauxite refinery so I really didn't give a fuck.
You sure have a point about the sanding block being the guy that's gonna help u do it right at 15:00. I got a 7 piece block set at Eastwood that's helping me a ton.
Look at the palm of your hand with your fingers closed. The space between each finger will cause you to sand into your putty, rather than glide over it. He mentions this in other videos as well.
This guy likes to hear himself talk more than anything he really don't know shit. He talks like he just came up with all this Intel and he's passing his knowledge that nobody else knows on to you we like to watch this at lunch time at the shop and get a good kick out of it,
shake your money maker....shake your money maker....go on up......go on up....shake your money maker....shake your money maker....go on up......go on up....shake your money maker...shake your money maker...shake your money maker...good tips....chops chops pc of shit eh....fuck that ass...lol...shake your money maker...shake your money maker...
I swear this is the best guide coat information on the internet
My friend and I recently did the body work on a Cobra (the old one from the 60's). Not a flat surface anywhere. We found that a pool noodle (you know the foam things kids use in the pool to float on?) as a sanding block works REALLY well. A piece about a foot long will take the full length of a sheet of paper and works really well to sand around the contours in multiple directions at the same time. You can hold it on an angle to conform to any shape. Dirt cheap too so you cat any length you want.
I use the left over tubes from masking paper or pvc pipe at times for certain body lines that curve inwards..!!
Thank you Pete. I must have watched this video 4 times already and learn more each time. Thank you for the effort you put into making these videos.
Our teacher showed us this technique to use. It’s really helpful and I will always use it.
without a doubt the best show on you tube.
Pete don't worry, every video from you is a real master class (in my opinion).
Thanks for the comments and support...
I found when you hit the metal to remove a high spot after you applied bondo to the metal it causes the bondo to come lose from vibration around the high spot. You should make sure the metal has no high spots before bondoing initially, or apply a thicker layer to start with.
Great tutorial in block sanding and using the "F" bomb in your everyday conversation.
just painted my first vw. your videos helped a great deal, especially the sanding/guide coat, thanks pete! great info.
Learned a lot about sanding in general watching these videos.
Hope things are going good Buck! It's almost as hot outside today as it was when you visited...
Hey pete greetings from Canada, I really like your videos they are full of very useful info especially like the ones on working metal, slinging mud and blocking it off. Ive done a fair bit of bodywork on my own project ,its nice to I had most of what i was doing right as I had no one to teach me had to figure it out on my own anyway keep them videos coming and wish you all the best
THanks for the comments and support.. Pete
If you are block sanding and you have a low spot identified by the guide coat, can you apply filler over the guide coat or must you remove the guide coat first?
Right on uncle! thank you for all your wisdom and experience. You and I would get along well over here in Hawaii. Our french is the same 😁
Thank you for always keeping it real.
Only restoration guy you need, Pete does it right.
A Friggin' Guide Coat....What a big help that is going to be .......Had to Subscribe, best tip for yet
Hi ya Pete--guide coat has helped me spot imperfections. Just did a trunk lid on my TA, that was as good as it gets from factory sheet metal. It looked great. Applied a dusting of flat black (cheap) rattle can paint and spotted several low points many of which were located near the edges of the trunk lid. I would have missed these, assuming the trunk lid was in near perfect shape. After sanding, it is nearly perfect. Never assume a body panel is straight. Meticulous body work can make it better than original. Thanks again for your help...you're a good guy Pete.
This video took me back to the good old days of my Ghia, thanks for sharing man.
clear direction in simple English, your a great teacher my friend Pete, your friend Pete
This will come in handy. Great tip on the guide coat over filler.
more videos like this one please Pete, not many videos on here about sanding contours etc, keep up the good work
Pete cracks me up with the price of the spray paint ....... It's .89 cents.... Then .86 cents ........ Then 87. Thanks for teaching and entertaining like no other, brother!
*Great tutorial and close-ups, MFP. I can watch block sanding like that all day long.*
Pete I had found some high spots on a 56 belair rear 1/4 after guide coat. I really had to bang it downw both sides of body hamer. Is that because 56 metal is alot thicker than a karmen kia? Your the best.
Great video Pete, the part about the metal too high helped a lot, thanks.
Is 320 grit good enough on final blocking poly before 2k restoration?
Are u applying a lot of pressure on on block wile sanding bondo??
Old but love it man....and seriously watch them more than most because of cussing and content!
Thanks for sharing this video.
1. So I think I can apply these step on Primer also, isn't it?
2. Is polyester filler as same as glazzing putty?
Thanks
Great idea Pete... I was wondering if i was doing the right thing when i did it... Now I know! Thanks Pete
your car is going to be bad ass when it's done...
+diyautoschool thanks to you and me learnin from ya.... lots of hard work too!
Will using a body hammer and dolly that close to bondo effect the filler. Or can you only do it when the filler is still soft/ not cured.
Only lightly tapping on the high area just enough to stretch and shrink the metal is all you want.. If you have to use the hammer and dolly to the extreme of cracking the bondo then the dent should have been noticeable before applying bondo.. This is just for very minor stuff...
Great vid my friend Pete! Please make more of that kind.
If after sanding I find out that I have to put another coat of filler. How do you prepare the old layer of bondo?
Hey Now my friend pete
What have you done to your right hand driving finger's nail?
Did you close a door on it like I did to mine last week?
Robert in niagara falls wants to know!
Great tip Pete I'm repairing the panels on my 1971Opel GT and I'm running out to the hardware store and getting some paint.
good ole "MINI" Corvette! Those used to be worth alot of money, are they still up there in price....
I live in northern Illinois if its not a rotten piece of shit, I'm the second owner its been banged up and some poor body work done. Thanks to your videos Pete she starting to look nice. One all redone 8-10 grand I bought mine for 200 bucks
That's a sharp looking car with the proper wheel and height ! Definitely one to restore !
Thanks for the good advice on guide coats!
Pete, Thanks for the tips. I have two questions. 1. It seems like when I tap a small high spot down, that's in the center of a filled area, the spot right next to it, that was correct, is now high. I find myself chasing it across the panel. What am I doing wrong? 2. When using guide coat and you have found your low spots and a few air bubbles. Do you sand the air bubbles out and the remaining guide coat off? Thanks in advance and sorry for dumb questions.
Hi David, when you bump the dent out run a file across the panel before you bondo that will show you your highs and lows, no dont rub your guide coat out and air bubbles coz this will make it even lower.
I would use a hammer and dolly to tap your highs down but dont use the point of the hammer.
Been doing this work for 47 years and i know.
I like to metal finish my work without bondo, but that takes many years to learn.
All the best from Australia.....
All metal work on cars is finished witg body filler if u been body man for 45 years yd know that
NOT DUMB QUESTIONS!!! YOU ARE TRYING TO DO IT RIGHT AND ARE PAYING ATTENTION TO DETAILS.
Well done. And I want to know the same.
I need your help. This mn is doing my 1971 and he want to bondon the whole car. Which I think that it's not right. Also he said he needs 10 gallon
What happened to the finished karmann ghia? Or did you give up on the karmann ghia? I was trying to keep up with you.
This guy is an expert
Hey Pete do you have any ideas or advice for a peeling bumper? The chrome is peeling off my bumper and there aren't any places that rechrome near me and shipping costs would be as high that I could replace them. Any ideas to paint it or any sprays or anything.
You can have it sandblasted to remove all the chrome and then paint it.. Like you said -- buying a new Aftermarket could be cheaper then re-chrome..
Pete,
Just to let you know. your vids have been instrumental in my restoration of my 65 Rambler American Convertible. i have never done auto body work. but with your vids i can say that my Job on the car looks Tits!!i have gone panel by panel taking my time and i have even amazed myself. im restoring this car to original Condition , even spending a lot of coin with the back interior side panels with Just dashes and the original door panels die electric and seat covers embossed from SMS AUTO fabrics up in Oregon. I figure with the Money im saving on Body and Paint i can spend in other areas to get the car as originall as possible!! I did get an estimate from a body shop before. bid came in at $12, 535.00 for body work and paint. i actually spent $755.00 on tools and supplies $450.00 on Primer and Acrylic Enamel paint. i, painting it back the original single stage. i know.....but i w ant the car to look as original as i can. the car will be garaged!! I enjoy very much your tremendous educational Videos and thanks for all the advice!!!!!! from Tony in Fremont Ca .. Silicon Valley.!!!!!
In Australia materials price would be 1000 to $1500 for a restoration, gotten really fucking expensive here
Hey Pete, I love your videos man just wanted to let you know.... I have a 1993 Ford Bronco I’m working on and would love to see you fabricate some drip rails for it. Also the floor boards are not rust out but have some surface rust here and there. What is the best product to use to protect the floor pans without stripping them down to bare metal. Can I spray epoxy primer on them with out stripping them down to bare metal?
What is the company that makes that spray ? Can't find anywhere.
Check Walmart or home depot out. Get the cheapest flat black you can find
Man. I dig your style a lot. Don't change a bit except for some excessive coursing, you do great!!! Btw, I would use 3M dry guide coat instead. Regards
Hi Pete, Good advice as always, At the restoration company I worked at we used a dry fine black powder rather than paint for filler guide coating, It was brilliant- no waiting for drying and didn't clog up paper, I cant for the life of me remember what it was called though!, It came in a round plastic tub and there was a foam pad in the lid that you put the shit on the panel with, dunno if youve come across it, but worth looking out for. Take care, J.
Just looked it up, 3M make it and its dirt cheap.
I know what your talking about, 3M makes it, you can buy it at your local paint and body shop supply store.. Ive never used it because Ive always just used the flat black spray paint, but Ive heard the dry powder works really well.. Thanks for the TECH TIPS AND HELPFUL HINTS!
diyautoschool
Thank you for the reply Pete, I really hope you don't mind me commenting here. Keep up the good work, J.
That's what I use ! no waiting for paint to dry. I highly recomend it. I painted 2 trucks and a car so far, and still not halfway through the tiny can
Couldn't you blow dry the guide coat ?? Quicker then waiting 15 mins ??
I use a heat gun
Love this guy lol he talks just like me when I’m trying to explain shit to my buddy’s lmao
On that fender the words you are looking for are compound curves. But you knew that.
Great video 👍🏼
Thanks bro this will help me when my 50 fleetline
thanks for the tips Pete
i love this one, great job .
i've always had problems geting the bondo just right this could fix it THANKS pete for showing us this...
This will definitely help out!
Like the area he is working on-Like he said most video's only show working on a flat panel- and there's nothing flat about the front end of a '48
cant get a can of spray paint for under 6$ here in canada....
I feel ya gas is a dollar rn
Thanks again, Pete!! Another Ghia!
What was the name of that character that Pete used to do? He was a professor who waffled on using loads of big words.
doctor dildo
Doctor Dildo, that's it!! Thanks.
this car is still there?
prob not
Good stuff Pete
THanks for watching--every view counts..
Proud to be the 1K button like. What did i win?
A good guide coat works great but I don't like to use spray cans cause they are enamel and can contaminate your finished paint job.i prefer to use black etch primer in a spray gun you can get a more even aplication and ajust how heavy you want your aplication
80 grit sand paper?
I would use 80 grit, maybe production paper if its available, J.
Since this is the Final Filler Coat of bondo, I use 36 grit,, once I apply the final coat of polyester/bondo then I will use 80 grit then 180 to finish it out..
+diyautoschool thanks pete!
He talks more than he works And I hate these commercials But over all he does good job
I've actually done it.... painted a whole car with 15 cans of Walmart grey primer. And it looked pretty good. Better than what was underneath it anyway. I used it to drive to work at a bauxite refinery so I really didn't give a fuck.
I like how this guy talks and works lol.
get it done
Very nice video with out the lady interrupting
You must have been a sailor in the past. 😆
dude what do your lungs look like? hahaha anyways i appreciate all the information you put up here on youtube. thanks!
Prefection? ;-)
love the vids
I got to get some "fucken 89 cent fuckin flat black spray paint" quick.
The block don't lie
Thought I saw Swampy sleeping in the back seat. Just my eyes.
Sorry it was that boring!
Great idea putting guide coat on Bondo Pete putting them on the primer just don't do shitz.
Hell yea good shit
Almost there pete
You sure have a point about the sanding block being the guy that's gonna help u do it right at 15:00. I got a 7 piece block set at Eastwood that's helping me a ton.
you said never use your hand to sand, why not?
Look at the palm of your hand with your fingers closed. The space between each finger will cause you to sand into your putty, rather than glide over it. He mentions this in other videos as well.
Cool intell
36 grit!!?? on primer!!??????????????
YEP!!! Thats right -- When the bodywork is this heavy you basically are using your primer as a guide coat.. You can always reprime -----
@@myfriendpete Thanks. Great video.
cheap and informative, thanks and please wear a Dust Mask..its Toxic mate
Oh no! Another Ghia!
Ouuuuuuuuuuuuu,..... SPRAAAAY PAINT!.
Where is your mask uncle Pete?
less talk more work
Fuck that, I fucking love Pete explaining it all.
This guy likes to hear himself talk more than anything he really don't know shit. He talks like he just came up with all this Intel and he's passing his knowledge that nobody else knows on to you we like to watch this at lunch time at the shop and get a good kick out of it,
shake your money maker....shake your money maker....go on up......go on up....shake your money maker....shake your money maker....go on up......go on up....shake your money maker...shake your money maker...shake your money maker...good tips....chops chops pc of shit eh....fuck that ass...lol...shake your money maker...shake your money maker...
A little bit of Elmo James?
yes sir...lol
Pete call you Hillbilly friend, he'l do it for $1600.00
Fuck Yeah!!!
It is called a filler, Or like the real Bodymen call it Mud. Not BONDO !!!!!!!!!!! Geesh!
Why do you say a lot of bad words kids look up to you
Farst
why are you fasting are you an indian?.lol
No fox given Scottish LOL
+No fox given :/