Very good video, I know some people dont understand and get confused because there are different ways to degree a cam you can check the cam at advertised duration, you can check it at .050 thousands or you can use the intake centerline method, study and you guys will learn . Thanks for the great video.
I just wanted to comment as a tech for 30 years you are correct, this is simplified as aposied to getting the calculator and deviding by your numbers by 2 and coming up with a center line number,you have it all right there whith in a few turns,I have used this methed my self ,it works right on every time, great job
Just a quick fact to note, when using your degree wheel to verify camshaft orientation: Many aftermarket camshaft manufacturers include a "break-in coating" on the camshaft lobes, to aid with initial wear at start-up. While the lobe profile is ground to very precise tolerances, the coating on the cam lobes is not necessarily "evenly applied". If you are noticing a "one degree" discrepancy between the specs on the Cam Card, and your degree wheel, it very well may be the result of non-uniform coating on the lobes.
The "half degree" difference showing on the degree wheel, when using the piston-stop in either clockwise, or counterclockwise direction, is due to the Wrist Pin Offset that is commonly designed into most pistons. Wrist Pin Offset minimizes piston skirt "slap" as the piston changes direction in the cylinder. It also reduces wear on the "thrust side" of the piston during the power stroke. The amount of offset is very small, hence the 1/2 degree difference in piston stop, depending on the direction of rotation. Please make a note of it ;o)
This guy seems to know what he's talking about,getting ready to degree the cam in an old Ford flathead(w/471 blower) so this information comes at a pretty good time
thank you for the video. i am not building any engines but have always been curious what is meant by "degreeing a cam". is the piston stopping against the stop bar or do you have that bolt screwed down lower than the bar?
I have an 02 Volvo S40 1.9T. There was an oil leak in the seal of the sprocket on the camshaft. The timing was marked off and then the crank (closer to the cabin of the vehicle- exhaust side?) was removed by my mechanic. He did not mark the opposing end of the shaft before realizing that there is no keyhole to set the shaft back in proper position. I am afraid he will not be able to complete the job without damaging the engine further. Is degreeing the camshaft my best alternative to bypass finding the marks to set the timing straight? Thanks!
Great Video. Although if i w was off by a 1/2 degree on my motor or a tight tolerance race engine, the intake valve would be smashed to pieces. Do you have an adjustable timing set you can put on (belt drive etc..) to show how to get spot on. Or did you want to talk about "where is the tight spot" on your particular engine? 2 degrees past ? 10 degrees past? what it your valve clearance that you can just use a cam card and not check? would like to see a whole video series and ones that address much tighter motors than that one. COOL!
i'm confused how you went to measure the lifter after you left the piston stop in. can you tell me why you stopped on 12.5 degrees? Did you remove the piston stop after? you explain that you are stopping the piston right before top dead center. I assume you use the piston stop a little lower than TDC and check it both ways until it balances. Then assuming you take off the piston stop, you would have ZERO on your degree wheel indicating true TDC, correct?
How do know how far to adjust the piston stop? So if you get both degrees once you spin the engine.. Then adjust the piston stop again, up or down so the piston stops either down further or up higher..will you still get the same numbers once you divide the two numbers?
hmmm, you moved the dregree wheel to find true tdc, you could have just moved your pointer to 12.5 degrees... a bit easier than torquing the degree wheel without spinning it.
Old Griz Agree, he did not derive a number by adding .050 before peak lobe lift with .050 after peak lobe lift and dividing by 2 to get the number to compare to intake centerline which is the most common way. (Not all cam cards have a number at .006 lift)
Great video but why so complicated. I have never used one of these. I stick a blunt 1.4 inch bolt or screw driver in my number one, rotate engine slowly. get it to the top center, then do final adjustment at my distributor. Great video though, I may try this method one day.
At 1:14 you say the piston will stop just before the top of the stroke (with the dead stop in). But how much before the top does it need to stop? Is this critical? Meaning, how far do you turn that bolt to protrude past the bottom of the dead stop plate? Would be very grateful if you could shed some light. Thanks.
The distance of the "stop" isn't important (within reason) as long as it remains in that position when you rotate the crank the opposite way and the piston nudges at the same stop point. The "stop" is providing two positions on the degree wheel that are easy to see and then the middle of those positions is the top of the piston movement. You could find TDC using a blank disc, as long as you mark where the piston stops in each direction and then divide the two marks. Of course using the degree wheel is needed for the rest of the process. We need to do this because the top of the piston stroke cannot be seen as the piston does not move perceptibly, for quite a few degrees of crank movement, as the crank pin passes through TDC. ... Hard to explain, hope this helps.
Or you could use the dial indicator to read when the piston is coming up. When the hand starts to spin the other way you've passed TDC. Back up past the highest reading to take up any backlash in the timing chain. Now rotate to the highest point and that is TDC.
Okay so question here cuz obviously I don't understand what I'm looking at, what is even the point of doing that the chain is attached to the gears and that's where it goes like it doesn't matter that you spin the engine and look at this degree that degree it doesn't matter ,at the end of the day the two marks got to line up Cam and crank and then the chain goes on so what are you trying to do put the tooth one tooth off I'm not understanding here?
I GOT A 1990 K5 BLAZER 5.7 WITH ECU GOT ENGINE REBUILD GOT THE BLOCK BORED 30 OVER AND DID A FEW UP GRADES IM USING EX262H CAM IN IT WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD COVERTER TO USE I TOOK THE STOCK ONE OUT..AND GOT 2000 TO 2400 STALL .. IS THAT GOOD WITH THAT CAM
you can get special spockets or offset keys depending how the timing gear is mounted, moving one whole tooth will likely cause engine or at least extremely poor running conditions
You said your intake valve should be open at .006" lift when checking, but then you measure off your lifter .006" not figuring in the rocker arm ratio. What fact is right?
he was not bringing the piston to TDC when it hit the piston stop. The piston was stopping 13 degrees short in either direction...Therefore the degree wheel was already zeroed. If he had taken the piston stop out, the degree wheel would be at zero when piston at true TDC. In effect he found TDC by coming shy of it 12.5 degrees from either direction and divided by 2. which would be zero degrees on the wheel.
we can almost read the piece of paper you are trying to show us, and we can not read the dials at all, I swear this is the third video I have watched on how to degree the cam and it is totally different than the other two, they are all different, makes me wonder how many ways is there to do this thing
@@s3904393sI'm confused, unless the sheet specified that when the Cam is at 0.006" lift instead of valve. The way he said it, is that if valve lift is at 0.006" (which with what John said, 1.5:1 rockers) would mean he would have to measure the cam at 0.004"
You are synchronizing your camshaft and crankshaft by degreeing the cam. This makes sure that your engine's valve train and pistons are operating at their optimum efficiency with each other.
Actually you are verifying the cam makers work.. A builder already knows if he wants the cam advanced or not.. He is just checking it first to see if the cam was ground correctly. It is rare they are off but it does happen. The timing chain manufacturers are actually the main culprit of a cam being out of spec.
On a motor like this with LOADS (100 + thousandths) of valve clearance you can leave it 1/2 a degree "off" Best not try that on a Performance tight motor, my intake valve would make contact with the piston....
You didnt take into account the rocker ratio which would change your estimated valve lift after the lifter and pushrod you made. If you have 1.5 or 1.6 rocker ratio then the lift would be .009 or .010 depending on the rockers of course.
Two tips my friend, the first is that the video should be done with better lighting and closer reading of both the measurement watches and the specifications of the camshaft, and if possible make a video in Spanish, thanks
+wayne fitzy There are 2 bolts holding the sprocket to the cam. Your new cam sprocket may not be marked with the dot and is off a hole. You could match the old and new sprockets together to mark the new sprocket's dot location. The cam should have a dot too, to align the cam sprocket dot to the cam's dot. The sprocket dot should be toward the center of the other sprocket when number 1 piston is at it's top. To check the cam's sprocket placement of the dot this gets a little complicated because the cam lobe is not top dead center when it moves, it's about 18 deg or more. I've never had this problem, can't say how it would need resolved. Bethoswald123 may have to explain, if your still that far off.
He was 13 on both sides when he rotated in both directions until he bumped the stop so if he took the piston stop out, and cranked the motor over until the pointer was at TDC on the wheel, he would also be at TDC on the piston too.. So he actually did verify TDC... But there was no reason to move the wheel to 0 (TDC) because once he knew the degree wheel was dialed in, he just needed to verify at .006 that the wheel was at 29 degrees which is what the cam card says..
AmmoMaster that’s what I’m saying. Are you supposed to leave it exactly where it is or get it back to tdc. It’s like people can’t think of everything In these videos.
u dont need to go back to 0 after u set the wheel tru tdc with the piston stop. ur just going backwards to go foward again ...between 0 and where he was at 12 on the wheel there wouldnt be any movement on the lifter yet
@slingblade1991 i guess im wondering the same thing..... it so you can charge more cuz youll have the knowledge of degreeing a cam this is too confusing for me
I like your video about cam shaft degreeing. I have made cam follower prototype for different purpose. In my cam follower mechanism, 1. Follower is offset. 2. Force is applied from follower to cam and by using this force cam is rotated. 3. Energy transferred on cam is more than we use energy to move follower. You can find exact drawing and prototype at mechanicalresearch.info or at my youtube channel.
Degreeing is really only for high performance, competition scenarios and or checking to make sure the cam is degreed like the chart says it is. Most consumer/street grade cams are ground with advance in them making the cam just a swap part. Non street, high lift, low LSA cams ground for high rpm need degreeing so there isnt detonation while zipping down the drag strip at 150+ mph with boost or nos.
Sean Hamre ... When and where did you go to school. I was taught degreeing a cam to ensure it's to spec for every cam at UTI. I graduated 5 months ago.
First of all greetings, the video is regular, explain why ... you do not show how you should place the gears of the time chain! Must explain if they should be placed point with point, ie is placed as if a tree le cams original, in their videos is already placed the plate or disc of degrees and does not specify or show how to place the gears with the chain weather! Thank you. It would also be very helpful to publish a video in Latin Spanish, and also where it shows in a fast and effective way how to degrade a camshaft in v8 engines.
oh I bet the company is right and you are off 1/2 a degree having made your own lifter tool and your own piston stop, and with the wheel you are using, I bet their equipment is at least 1/2 a degree more accurate than you, not being rude just my observation
@@RohanSanjith no need these days not for a shade tree mechanic, maybe the super racers and pros can do it but they will only find the cams are perfectly set from the factory these days, their equipment is laser proof
i'm confused how you went to measure the lifter after you left the piston stop in. can you tell me why you stopped on 12.5 degrees? Did you remove the piston stop after? you explain that you are stopping the piston right before top dead center. I assume you use the piston stop a little lower than TDC and check it both ways until it balances. Then assuming you take off the piston stop, you would have ZERO on your degree wheel indicating true TDC, correct?
Very good video, I know some people dont understand and get confused because there are different ways to degree a cam you can check the cam at advertised duration, you can check it at .050 thousands or you can use the intake centerline method, study and you guys will learn . Thanks for the great video.
I just wanted to comment as a tech for 30 years you are correct, this is simplified as aposied to getting the calculator and deviding by your numbers by 2 and coming up with a center line number,you have it all right there whith in a few turns,I have used this methed my self ,it works right on every time, great job
Best video I've seen so far describing how to degree a camshaft. Thank you.
Just a quick fact to note, when using your degree wheel to verify camshaft orientation:
Many aftermarket camshaft manufacturers include a "break-in coating" on the camshaft lobes, to aid with initial wear at start-up. While the lobe profile is ground to very precise tolerances, the coating on the cam lobes is not necessarily "evenly applied".
If you are noticing a "one degree" discrepancy between the specs on the Cam Card, and your degree wheel, it very well may be the result of non-uniform coating on the lobes.
The "half degree" difference showing on the degree wheel, when using the piston-stop in either clockwise, or counterclockwise direction, is due to the Wrist Pin Offset that is commonly designed into most pistons.
Wrist Pin Offset minimizes piston skirt "slap" as the piston changes direction in the cylinder. It also reduces wear on the "thrust side" of the piston during the power stroke.
The amount of offset is very small, hence the 1/2 degree difference in piston stop, depending on the direction of rotation.
Please make a note of it ;o)
marshalllhiepler ...absolutely correct,I'm pretty sure your comment helped many people!
@@jojomama4787 It did!
thanks man
@@limited3502,
Thanks for your agreeable response, despite being rather "limited". 😉
That is the correct way to find TDC, a dial indicator does not account for bearing clearance which is taken up by compression pressure !
The clearest vid on YT on the subject
That was quick to the point man! Thanks!
Best explanation yet. 👍
Awesome video you made things clear. Thanks
Great video man. Great Info.
This guy seems to know what he's talking about,getting ready to degree the cam in an old Ford flathead(w/471 blower) so this information comes at a pretty good time
Why wasnt the piston placed at tdc. You found the center but never moved to it before continuing
Great video
Good job Sir thanks 🇮🇳👍
thank you for the video. i am not building any engines but have always been curious what is meant by "degreeing a cam". is the piston stopping against the stop bar or do you have that bolt screwed down lower than the bar?
Another question. Once you find the degree do you leave the #1 piston at top dead center? Or leave it where u found the last degree?
Super video.
Love the video. Thanks
Simple and clear explanation - Thanks!
+JP JP lining up the dots and degreeing a cam are not the same thing
hey dude THANKS finally a good video about this.
I enjoyed the video,founded it usefull ,and have a better way idea about dialling it in thank you.
good Job!!!!
very nice sir! thank you
I have an 02 Volvo S40 1.9T. There was an oil leak in the seal of the sprocket on the camshaft. The timing was marked off and then the crank (closer to the cabin of the vehicle- exhaust side?) was removed by my mechanic. He did not mark the opposing end of the shaft before realizing that there is no keyhole to set the shaft back in proper position. I am afraid he will not be able to complete the job without damaging the engine further. Is degreeing the camshaft my best alternative to bypass finding the marks to set the timing straight?
Thanks!
Great Video. Although if i w was off by a 1/2 degree on my motor or a tight tolerance race engine, the intake valve would be smashed to pieces. Do you have an adjustable timing set you can put on (belt drive etc..) to show how to get spot on. Or did you want to talk about "where is the tight spot" on your particular engine? 2 degrees past ? 10 degrees past? what it your valve clearance that you can just use a cam card and not check? would like to see a whole video series and ones that address much tighter motors than that one. COOL!
i'm confused how you went to measure the lifter after you left the piston stop in. can you tell me why you stopped on 12.5 degrees? Did you remove the piston stop after? you explain that you are stopping the piston right before top dead center. I assume you use the piston stop a little lower than TDC and check it both ways until it balances. Then assuming you take off the piston stop, you would have ZERO on your degree wheel indicating true TDC, correct?
How do know how far to adjust the piston stop? So if you get both degrees once you spin the engine.. Then adjust the piston stop again, up or down so the piston stops either down further or up higher..will you still get the same numbers once you divide the two numbers?
hmmm, you moved the dregree wheel to find true tdc, you could have just moved your pointer to 12.5 degrees... a bit easier than torquing the degree wheel without spinning it.
Do not forget to allow for timing chain slack or streach , even with a new chain.That is why I use gears.
how do you like the sv-10 hone?
pity the camera wouldn't focus on his indicater...
Basically all this video shows is how to find true TDC and verify the cam grind, not how to actually degree the cam
Old Griz Agree, he did not derive a number by adding .050 before peak lobe lift with .050 after peak lobe lift and dividing by 2 to get the number to compare to intake centerline which is the most common way. (Not all cam cards have a number at .006 lift)
@@petejoseph8257 lobe center method. Clay Smith cams has a video on this
Do you know if there is a cam degreeing video in spanish?
Great video but why so complicated. I have never used one of these. I stick a blunt 1.4 inch bolt or screw driver in my number one, rotate engine slowly. get it to the top center, then do final adjustment at my distributor. Great video though, I may try this method one day.
thanks for the video , but im still thinking how am i gonna applied it on a bike engine ...
At 1:14 you say the piston will stop just before the top of the stroke (with the dead stop in). But how much before the top does it need to stop? Is this critical? Meaning, how far do you turn that bolt to protrude past the bottom of the dead stop plate? Would be very grateful if you could shed some light. Thanks.
ANYONE!!??
The distance of the "stop" isn't important (within reason) as long as it remains in that position when you rotate the crank the opposite way and the piston nudges at the same stop point. The "stop" is providing two positions on the degree wheel that are easy to see and then the middle of those positions is the top of the piston movement. You could find TDC using a blank disc, as long as you mark where the piston stops in each direction and then divide the two marks. Of course using the degree wheel is needed for the rest of the process.
We need to do this because the top of the piston stroke cannot be seen as the piston does not move perceptibly, for quite a few degrees of crank movement, as the crank pin passes through TDC. ... Hard to explain, hope this helps.
Or you could use the dial indicator to read when the piston is coming up. When the hand starts to spin the other way you've passed TDC. Back up past the highest reading to take up any backlash in the timing chain. Now rotate to the highest point and that is TDC.
Okay so question here cuz obviously I don't understand what I'm looking at, what is even the point of doing that the chain is attached to the gears and that's where it goes like it doesn't matter that you spin the engine and look at this degree that degree it doesn't matter ,at the end of the day the two marks got to line up Cam and crank and then the chain goes on so what are you trying to do put the tooth one tooth off I'm not understanding here?
I GOT A 1990 K5 BLAZER 5.7 WITH ECU GOT ENGINE REBUILD GOT THE BLOCK BORED 30 OVER AND DID A FEW UP GRADES IM USING EX262H CAM IN IT WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD COVERTER TO USE I TOOK THE STOCK ONE OUT..AND GOT 2000 TO 2400 STALL .. IS THAT GOOD WITH THAT CAM
I'd love to see a video for home bolters how to set the cam without a cam card
Clay Smith Cams has a video on this
so how do you apply the degree to the timing chain? do you set the timing chain +or - a tooth to change the degree of the cam?
you can get special spockets or offset keys depending how the timing gear is mounted, moving one whole tooth will likely cause engine or at least extremely poor running conditions
To find TDC why not just bend the pointer?
can u upload the video with a verry good quality? soo we can see what was it written there clearly, btw its a helpfull video after all
So basicly the point of degreeing a cam is to check that it was ground within specifications?
I think so. I don’t think it changes anything.
You said your intake valve should be open at .006" lift when checking, but then you measure off your lifter .006" not figuring in the rocker arm ratio. What fact is right?
+David Sanders lobe lift not valve lift
after finding the mid point of the two numbers shouldn't you then RESET the degree wheel to O (TDC)?
No, but lets here why you think so ?
he was not bringing the piston to TDC when it hit the piston stop. The piston was stopping 13 degrees short in either direction...Therefore the degree wheel was already zeroed. If he had taken the piston stop out, the degree wheel would be at zero when piston at true TDC.
In effect he found TDC by coming shy of it 12.5 degrees from either direction and divided by 2. which would be zero degrees on the wheel.
great video ! but oil your ratchet it needs a lil TLC
we can almost read the piece of paper you are trying to show us, and we can not read the dials at all, I swear this is the third video I have watched on how to degree the cam and it is totally different than the other two, they are all different, makes me wonder how many ways is there to do this thing
+gReGsKi GmAiL just one way, the right way.
Get a mechanic
4:02 ....006" valve lift? Then why did you measure .006" off the cam lobe? If you have 1.5 to 1 rockers, the valve lift would be .009", right?
nah that's 0.006(sometimes 0.004 or even 0.020)tappet lift which is also called advertised duration.
@@s3904393sI'm confused, unless the sheet specified that when the Cam is at 0.006" lift instead of valve.
The way he said it, is that if valve lift is at 0.006" (which with what John said, 1.5:1 rockers) would mean he would have to measure the cam at 0.004"
What is the main purpose for degreeing your cam, will it help make more power? Why not set up the cam straight up.
Thats exactly what im trying to figure out.
You are synchronizing your camshaft and crankshaft by degreeing the cam. This makes sure that your engine's valve train and pistons are operating at their optimum efficiency with each other.
Actually you are verifying the cam makers work.. A builder already knows if he wants the cam advanced or not.. He is just checking it first to see if the cam was ground correctly. It is rare they are off but it does happen. The timing chain manufacturers are actually the main culprit of a cam being out of spec.
Yes, just check if the both valves are closed (on top), during the compression stroke, it'll do, the manufacturer will already sort it out
On a motor like this with LOADS (100 + thousandths) of valve clearance you can leave it 1/2 a degree "off" Best not try that on a Performance tight motor, my intake valve would make contact with the piston....
Who was the camera man, Stevie Wonder!
You didnt take into account the rocker ratio which would change your estimated valve lift after the lifter and pushrod you made. If you have 1.5 or 1.6 rocker ratio then the lift would be .009 or .010 depending on the rockers of course.
The .050" is always tappet lift and not valve lift
the essayist way to change the cam angle ,use a off set key
Two tips my friend, the first is that the video should be done with better lighting and closer reading of both the measurement watches and the specifications of the camshaft, and if possible make a video in Spanish, thanks
bugger off you Spanish lot learn English ya cheeky bugger
Using the method shown does away with any discrepancy due to "uncalibrated eyeballs" and any minute play in the timing chain.
will the dial indicator tip alignment matter if i am measuring duration only??
i mean the dial indicator tip is over retainer at an angle....plese reply
Whatever, but when using 87 octane, 200 psi cyl. compression is a good start.
How to degree an 8valve engine
so what do you do if your cam degree is out 30 to 40 degrees out how do you fix that problem
+wayne fitzy There are 2 bolts holding the sprocket to the cam. Your new cam sprocket may not be marked with the dot and is off a hole. You could match the old and new sprockets together to mark the new sprocket's dot location. The cam should have a dot too, to align the cam sprocket dot to the cam's dot. The sprocket dot should be toward the center of the other sprocket when number 1 piston is at it's top. To check the cam's sprocket placement of the dot this gets a little complicated because the cam lobe is not top dead center when it moves, it's about 18 deg or more. I've never had this problem, can't say how it would need resolved. Bethoswald123 may have to explain, if your still that far off.
Please explain why u stopped at 13 degrees and not 0?
He was 13 on both sides when he rotated in both directions until he bumped the stop so if he took the piston stop out, and cranked the motor over until the pointer was at TDC on the wheel, he would also be at TDC on the piston too.. So he actually did verify TDC... But there was no reason to move the wheel to 0 (TDC) because once he knew the degree wheel was dialed in, he just needed to verify at .006 that the wheel was at 29 degrees which is what the cam card says..
Why don't you set your degree wheel at TDC after establishing it? WTF !!!!!!!!!!!!!
AmmoMaster that’s what I’m saying. Are you supposed to leave it exactly where it is or get it back to tdc. It’s like people can’t think of everything In these videos.
u dont need to go back to 0 after u set the wheel tru tdc with the piston stop. ur just going backwards to go foward again ...between 0 and where he was at 12 on the wheel there wouldnt be any movement on the lifter yet
Leave it as it is cause your not a TDC
Some of the people here need to leave it to the professionals they have no clue and it is obviously beyond them.
Do you have to use the piston stop to find TDC? Couldn't you just... kinda eyeball it?
@slingblade1991 i guess im wondering the same thing..... it so you can charge more cuz youll have the knowledge of degreeing a cam this is too confusing for me
I like your video about cam shaft degreeing. I have made cam follower prototype for different purpose. In my cam follower mechanism,
1. Follower is offset. 2. Force is applied from follower to cam and by using this force cam is rotated. 3. Energy transferred on cam is more than we use energy to move follower. You can find exact drawing and prototype at mechanicalresearch.info or at my youtube channel.
how often do you need to degree the camshaft?
yea...ill just NOT degree a cam, ever. this is a pain in the ass...for almost nothing.
Degreeing is really only for high performance, competition scenarios and or checking to make sure the cam is degreed like the chart says it is. Most consumer/street grade cams are ground with advance in them making the cam just a swap part. Non street, high lift, low LSA cams ground for high rpm need degreeing so there isnt detonation while zipping down the drag strip at 150+ mph with boost or nos.
Do i really have to do all this when i replace the cam?????
loranga japp no just do like your changing a timing chain, bring up number 1 to tdc put cam in then turn cam till timing marks line up and done
Sean Hamre
That`s what i thought,But some ppl say you HAVE to do this???
loranga japp i never used a degree wheel. even in school we didnt use one. never had a problem with timing engine always ran fine
Sean Hamre
Ok thx man :)
Sean Hamre ... When and where did you go to school. I was taught degreeing a cam to ensure it's to spec for every cam at UTI. I graduated 5 months ago.
I think this video lowered my IQ
First of all greetings, the video is regular, explain why ... you do not show how you should place the gears of the time chain! Must explain if they should be placed point with point, ie is placed as if a tree le cams original, in their videos is already placed the plate or disc of degrees and does not specify or show how to place the gears with the chain weather! Thank you.
It would also be very helpful to publish a video in Latin Spanish, and also where it shows in a fast and effective way how to degrade a camshaft in v8 engines.
always start with your crank gear mark up 12 ;00 no.1 cyl, top dead center, camshaft gear at 6:00,or as you said point to point
oh I bet the company is right and you are off 1/2 a degree having made your own lifter tool and your own piston stop, and with the wheel you are using, I bet their equipment is at least 1/2 a degree more accurate than you, not being rude just my observation
I agree with gReGsKi Gmail.
Then it's good not to ever degree the cam
@@RohanSanjith no need these days not for a shade tree mechanic, maybe the super racers and pros can do it but they will only find the cams are perfectly set from the factory these days, their equipment is laser proof
Confusing,
Please wakeup well before u made next videos
Man, fexa a boca...xeira a esgoto
i'm confused how you went to measure the lifter after you left the piston stop in. can you tell me why you stopped on 12.5 degrees? Did you remove the piston stop after? you explain that you are stopping the piston right before top dead center. I assume you use the piston stop a little lower than TDC and check it both ways until it balances. Then assuming you take off the piston stop, you would have ZERO on your degree wheel indicating true TDC, correct?
with piston stop out he would be at 0 deg after he adj the wheel. Just doing it fast to check the deg wheel of the lifter opening at .006