Degreeing a Camshaft Made Easy: Explained & Demonstrated (ENGINE BUILDING ESSENTIALS)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2018
- For Newcomers & Veterans Builders Alike - Everything Finally Explained on Camera !!!!
Parts List & Walk Through Below -
My Degree Kit (The Best One. Period.): goo.gl/99b3M5
Quality Small Wheel Degree Kit (Budget): goo.gl/HetuNw
My SBF Crank Socket (Quality Unit): goo.gl/tKU8iX
The SBF Cloyes Timing Set (2 Degree adj.): goo.gl/PhfU5Q
(Written walk through in pinned comment due to length)
Tags:
how to degree a cam
how to degree a camshaft
how to degree a cam without a wheel
what does degreeing a cam do
How to degree a cam SBC
how to degree a cam SBF
How to degree a cam
how to degree a cam with heads on
how to degree a cam small block ford - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
The best video I found on this subject. Thanks.
Great video indeed!
Just to help clarify for those that don't quite get the reasoning behind useing the piston stop method to find true TDC: It doesn't matter what depth the piston stop is at. What you are doing with it is finding two arbitrary points which are the same on either side of TDC and finding the halfway point in crank degrees, which would be true TDC. The piston dwells at TDC for a few degrees, because of the crank pin rollover, making it hard to find the exact center of that dwell at TDC, even with a dial gauge, because the dial will stay still for many degrees of crankshaft rotation while the piston dwells at TDC. So by averaging two points of the piston's travel, where there is no dwell, you can find the exact center (in crankshaft degrees) of TDC. Also, don't simply trust your marks on the crank sprocket and timing covers as they do deviate from true TDC, often. Defects in manufacturing, tolerances, and quality control are increasingly rampant in today's aftermarket and OEM parts supplies. Hence, the reason for performing these checks in the first place. Don't just trust that a cam is ground correctly, verify 👍, sometimes they are not, so beware.
After he mounted the piston stop. After turning the crank over to bring the piston up to the piston stop. Why did he set the degree wheel at 90 degrees? Where did that number come from?
@@BigBill526 He just picked an arbitrary number that would be easy for the math, all he was doing was finding the halfway point between each piston stop, in degrees. You're just measuring the degrees between two points so where the wheel is set at this point doesn't matter as long as it doesn't move on you in between getting both readings. Notice, the degree wheel is actually set to 0° later, once he had found true top dead center on number 1, now the numbers actually mean something real at that point going forward. Finding TDC is used to calibrate the wheel to the engine, before it is set to 0° at true TDC the numbers on the wheel are just whatever so you can find the halfway point between the piston stops, or TDC. The math was just finding the average of the two readings on the wheel (or halfway) the numbers could be anything as the wheel isn't set yet, until it's actually zeroed to true TDC.
Ok. Thanks for the info. I'm trying to figure this out. I'm attempting for the first time to rebuild a motor. I started with a bare block. And now I'm at the point of degreeing the cam. And the company I bought my cam from sent a camshaft installation instructions manual with the cam. And I can't make sense of the dang thing. So I've been surfing through TH-cam videos on degreeing a cam. Trying to learn something.
@@BigBill526 Awesome, good luck. I hope was of some help. A channel called UncleTonysGarage has some videos on it also
For someone that never has done good information about it good video.
Remember this explanation Assumes that there is a "0" offset on the piston pin. Most pistons do have a .040" to .060 offset so TDC is a little bit off of true TDC. You can calculate the difference in TDC but most folks dont worry about what will amount to 2d to 4 d difference in TDC. But great explanation for typical users. Offset piston pins allow for the piston to be past its high point at TDC making it less prone to damage from preignition or detonation.
I agree with the last dude...best video on this subject. I always though every cam was spot on...(as long as the dots were lined up) I've done quite a few rebuilds over the years and l always just lined up the dots and assumed it was good. I'm 52 now and just learned what a degree wheel was all about. thanks l liked and subed.
Honestly you are great at explaining things not just in this video but in your other walkthroughs, I've seen other videos on the same subject but none were as useful to me as this one keep them coming love what you're doing.
Just got done degeeing my cam in.. it was off about 1.5 degrees. Suppose to be a 108 centerline... it was 106.5. The duration was off by .5, half a degree. Suppose to be 222/230. I only did the intake it came in at 221.5
So..I'm going to run it as it. Thanks for the video
Man the way you broke it down I'm not the Smartest guy , but I understood everything.
Thanks, you talk like we're in the same room
you alone not so good, junkyard digs by himself,not so good,but when your together,it works,the chemistry is just right for a interesting video
+Polly g I do the tech, he has the personality and video software. I’m rooted in how to videos, so it is definitely different when it is just me same when it is just him.
Thank you for taking the time to show us this process, I've never seen this done and felt like I was sitting in shop watching
Nice! I love the technical stuff even though I hardly can follow along! It makes me glad to know there's younger guys out there who know what they're doing! Keep on keeping on!
Helped me understand a lot more, I have watched a few videos on this subject this is definitely the most understandable and informative. Thank you
Building my first engine. Followed along with my degree kit and everything was good! Great job on the instructions!
Good job teaching bud I was thinking this guy is informative and thorough and then you said Iowa, ha !....I'm an Iowa boy myself no wonder it makes sense...thanks man
Thanks for the video! I am building my 1st engine (Olds 455 bored 60 over going in my '64 c10) and have your video playing as I degree my camshaft.
I go to the max lift and back it up 0.100 then clock wise 0.50 then record degrees on the wheel then continue to 0.50 over max lift and record. Having the right tools makes the job so much easier. I have Comps lifter bore tool which holds the dial indicator. Great video Luke.
I've seen a couple good videos explaining this process and thought I learned enough to do the job. Then I watched this 1, and this video by far is the best and most valuable 1 on TH-cam!!! I still learned some new stuff and what I did get from the other videos now seems to be lacking lol This video right here is on point and doesn't leave a single thing out it has every single step and is explained to the letter all the way through!!! Great job brother you tackled this process and did an amazing job to the point someone who's never even seen a timing set or cam can watch this and go out and degree a cam while watching. Thanks so much for taking the time and doing it so detailed for us!!!
EXCELLENT VID! You are easy to follow and make it simple to understand the process. Thanks👌🏻
Top stuff, that’s give me a lot more confidence to get this done now. Thank you, by far the easiest video i’ve seen yet to follow
Love your channel man. Quickly becoming one of my favorites
I appreciate that. Just some poor boy trying to do things the right way 👍
How would I install the crank gear ⚙️ advanced 2 degrees 🤔 I have one of those that you have on your shelf, adjustable. Set it up for 2 advanced and not the dot to dot?
Love your channel and vids!!keep up the good work!!
Great job describing this process.
I never did this on my engine build and my motor was running really rough. Took it to a well known shop and they told me I was 7 degrees off. I’ll be sure to degree my engines in the future.
I found this to be the most helpful of all the video's out there. I did have one problem in finding TDC, which lead to inaccurate degree readings on the cam. I kept getting TDC calculation using the piston stop method which consistently lead to my intake centerline being off by 6 degrees (114 rather than 108). So then I tried finding TDC using a dial indicator, and whaa la ! This lead to a intake centerline calculation of 107.5. Physically I could the the piston was higher (maybe 1/16 inch) compared to the piston stop method. Glad I checked before I went to get a multi keyed crank sprocket.
The most informative video I've found. Thanks!
Great video learned a lot thanks look forward to your next video about doing the valves and push rods thanks
Thank You; with your instructions here its quite possible im becoming a decent mechanic. Haha. Well at least i will be able to accomplish the tasks im learning in good faith. Thanks again.
Bless You for making the time to guide us less knowledgable people.
Loved the video, learned alot Thank U.... sucks that it was cold when making your video.
thanks for the great explanation....
I like the big degree wheel, Nice!
It’s a great piece!
I didn't have time to even watch the whole video, but I liked it anyway because I could tell that it was going to be on the money
Great video. Thanks
This is some precision stuff! Taking up timing chain slack and all that... Great job though!
Very well explained. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome - when I made this video, all the others were not good/left things out
I would like to see a toolbox tour
Very good video. Thanks.
I appreciate it - could never stand the content out there on this subject.
Someone had to do it some justice!
Great video.
So does this help with setting the initial timing as well? Great video and easy instruction. Man those comp cam wheels aint cheap!
I honestly think TH-cam algorithm fucked up because you sir Luke make the best videos for explaining and in depth look for small block ford's but have less views then some other lower quality channels
Dnt know why but, sorry for that keep up the awesome videos and thank you for regular uploads
why not use the dial indicator for finding tdc as well-go .100 each side of tdc and split the difference-no need for your little bracket stopper thingy...
Nice video!
Good job helping us understand the process.
Great video bud you explain more into detail then most vids I’ve watched on how to degree the cam, I do have a question is the valve lifter a hydraulic roller or is it a flat tappet ? I’m having a hard time trying to degree my cam on a 84 302 sbf. Your input is appreciated
The first one i understand This is very good
Not everyone is thunderhead289.
What did you think of them Promaxx heads?, are they the 175cc castings? I had a set on a 347 and was very happy with them, made 306 RWHP on propane with mild cam 214/224@50 , 550 lift, 112LSA.
I think I understand how this works for the most part. Your simply verifying that the actual cam specs match up with the data on the cam card. There are a few things that I haven't wrapped my head around though.1) When you are verifying the duration specs and you add 34 + 1.5 + 180, why do you add 180?2) You said that the dial indicator can't touch the block because it will throw off the measurements. Why would this happen?
Right that’s what I get out of it, verifies the cam specs on the card. There’s a few more things I’m still trying to figure out still. I always wanted to rebuild a motor myself. I have a 6.0 and a 6.2 ls I want to do up eventually.
Also I think this would make sure your crank is correct also.
well done fer sure
Hello TH289, just on the exhaust side of degreeing the cam & i havnt found any1 that explains this. Do i approach it the same as the intake_eg first find TDC on the compression stroke ,when degreeing intake side. But how about exh side ! is it first find TDC on the exhaust stroke now degree? Hmm!
Is this going into the rotstang?
Nice video. How did you like those heads? Not a lot of reviews on them. Putting them on my 347.
Heck Yes, I'd like to see how much difference there is with a worn chain and sprockets.
can you assume that since the intake duration was correct that the exhaust duration is too or should you continue with checking the exhaust duration also?
I installed the exact same cam, xe266hr12, I did buy a degree wheel, but since it was my first build I was afraid to remove the valve springs off my new blueprint heads, and just installed dot to dot. Yes I’m very aware at how stupid that was, but my question is this, if I did manage to get lucky (highly doubt it) and get the cam close to its intended set up would I have needed to advance the cam or would dot to dot have gotten me where the cam was intended?
The bigger wheel is a lot nicer than small one.
Would it be a good idea to go through the same procedure for the rest of the cam lobes to make absolutely sure that they are also exactly correct?
Im a bit stuck im wondering how you got 90 and when ur degreeing do you have to be at TDC on compression stroke? Thanks
So how would this be done on a regular shim and tappet cylinder head?
Whats a good way to do this with the engine in the car with the heads still on the motor not doing a rebuild just a cam swap without pulling the engine. Thanks
So, what I got is, this process is just to see if your cam was made to the specs of the card? So, I guess I can just throw my 280h cam in my sbc and run with it?
You can indeed, but if they made a catastrophic mistake manufacturing it, you just wouldn’t know. Also, timing chains actually play a part also - if the chain is off, the cam is also off.
QUESTION: IN THE VIDEO AT 8:57 THERE IS A HOLE IN THE INNER CASING OF THE 302 BLOCK. I'VE SEEN THE SAME THING IN MINE. ALWAYS THOUGHT IT WAS A BAD CASTING, OR DOES IT INDEED HAVE A PURPOSE? THK!
Its a hole for oil to drain from the lifter valley to the timing chain, and vice versa. Its supposed to be there.
$326.05!!!!! THREE HUNDRED!!! Nice video regardless.
I know im late to the party, but thank you so much for making this vid.
You are very welcome - I tried to explain it in simple terms without all the excessive fancy flair people always put on degreeing a cam
No kidding. The most I've found thus far as to an explanation of degreeing a cam is creators simply stating that they've done it. I've been through automotive tech school and all, but the emphasis was always on recent technology. I understand the necessity for that, but I'm just glad there are those out there, such as yourself, that still teach this stuff.
Could you explain how i could find my cam specs on an unknown build? Im trying to gauge what ive got to make strategic upgrades. Thanks
Hello 6 pack!
You can use these methods for measuring your unknown cam. Then you will have the specs and can compare your cam to known cams and see if it will work in your application.
I have watched a number of these videos and they all seem to have the same content., how to set up the wheel, pistons top, dial indicator, and show how to turn the engine and do the numbers etc. So am I missing something here (?), I never see anyone say that the cam is out of degree spec and what they would do to make any adjustments to correct it! Isn’t there more to it than just turning the engine back and forth and calculating the numbers? No one shows installing the cam and lining up the marks on the cam and crank gears, should they be installed at 6 and 12 and if a cam is not where it should be degree wise, what is done to correct it? Sorry for a silly (maybe stupid) question,,,
The setscrew on the piston stop looks to be adjustable, if so, are there specs as to how far the setscrew protrudes?
And why did you start out at 90 degrees?
All you want to do is stop the piston from making a full rotation. And yes - you don't have to do 90 degrees, BUT the math numbers you work with are easier to conceptualize and less likely to screw up by accident.
What is the significance to setting the degree wheel on the intake side to 90 degrees. I’m missing something.
canav8 no problem, you don’t have to do it, it just makes the math easier so that a guy doesn’t make a mistake!
What's with those light springs on that one cylinder? Just keeping the valves from impacting the piston?
Kenneth Monson that’s some of the measuring tools still left from doing the pushrod length (oddly enough, though I uploaded the pushrod video first, this actually happened before)
Oh I missed that one, going to watch it now. Thanks!
IOWA!??!?!??! I know that place!
Pretty good video!
Check out Steve Dulcich's video on degreeing cams. Really good video as well.
This is why I like gear drives. Chains are prone to wear far more than gear drives
Why do you put piston stopper? That prevents from attaining the tdc where the top portion of the piston should be also thesame level of the top surface of the block right?
As I mention in the video, you can’t eyeball TDC as it relates to crankshaft degrees. The connecting rod rolls over center as the piston dwells - by using the method shown, you can determine at what degree is true tdc. Once found, the piston stop is removed and the effective tdc can be used to verify camshaft specifics 👍
Kind regards,
Luke
@@ThunderHead289 Why did you move your degree wheel at 90 where that's not the degree wheel tells in the video?
I’m pretty sure I know what you are talking about - I moved it to a spot that makes the math easier for someone to conceptualize. That way that didn’t have to think of the value on the price there side of 180 and do extra math. It was just to simplify it. You don’t have to do it that way, but it’s the easiest way to not mess up. 👍
Give it a shot, don’t move it and see how the math would have to run
I thought this was merely standard procedure building any engine. We've always done that to verify even new cams were grinded correctly.
agreed, this should always be done! the sad truth is that it is oftentimes avoided!
Will the timing Mark on the crank and case indicator not show true TDC? Is the piston stop a 100% nessecity?
Absolutely is 10000 percent necessary
@@ThunderHead289 Lol alright Chief, Thank You! ✊
Was that Runza?
I know this is old but what timing tolerance is acceptable? You were at 106 at a 108 cam. How far is too far especially if you have a gear that is only in 4 degree increments?
I always opt to advance a cam if I can because the timing chain will slack 2 degrees in the first 10k miles. How far are you off by?
@@ThunderHead289 I am not building yet just preparing. Just curious on what numbers you would change. Advancing a little for slack is good but would you run into issues with a cam at 104, or 102, etc. Not necessarily optimal for racing but how far off would you say, "too far in most situations, need to get closer."
Why does this look like he’s measuring the exhaust lifter on the #2 cylinder? Am I missing something? The passenger side is 2/4/6/8 right? And the valve layout is EIIEEIIE right? Confused...
radarsonwheels1 this is a ford 👍
ThunderHead289 wow thanks for the fast reply- never built a ford motor. So the passenger side front most lifter is #1 intake on those? My head just exploded haha
This is where you could use the phrase "The Devil is in the details".
You need a heater in there!
I need 7 heaters !!! this has been a cold winter!!!
What are your thoughts on those promaxx heads?
+Tim Dugan they are very well put together! But I got mine through skip white. Right now, blueprint has a set out through summit with a comparable price and flow numbers
Do they make them for a 429 460 engine? I'm currently rebuilding my .30 over 429 looking for decent heads
I still don't understand how u got TDC. So u just eyeballed the Piston going up to the top then set the Piston stop screw ?
How did u know when to set the Piston stop ?
The piston stop isn’t what sets TDC.
Basically you can’t eyeball or even gauge TDC at the top of the piston stroke because the crank still rotated as the piston momentarily dwells as the connecting rod rotated over center of its stroke.
So what you have to do is stop the piston at some point below TDC, note the position on the degree wheel, then rotate the engine backwards until the stop and mark that point.
Absolute true TDC is the point on the degree wheel between your two stop points 👍
@@ThunderHead289 When u mean "stop the Piston below TDC at some point" for the Piston stop screw, Did u just eyeball the Piston before it looked like it was going to the very top ? Or just as long as it doesn't reach the very top correct ?
So is the piston stop pre set to stop the piston ?? Like how far the bolt stopping the piston extends into the cylinder, is that distance pre determin, or do you just choose how far to put it then put it over the cylinder??, I still don't understand how the before and after tdc number is determined in order to stop the piston exactly 20 thousandth before and after tdc
majorkin19 you aren’t the first to ask this today - basically you can’t turn the engine to true TDC, as the wristpin rolls over center the piston will dwell as it changes direction as the crank continues to rotate.
So, in order to find this, we throw the piston stop on to half the piston someplace before Tdc, and turn the engine clockwise. When the piston stops we mark that degree. Now we turn the engine backwards until it stops and we mark that degree.
The degree in between those two points is actual true TDC. Does that make sense?
@@ThunderHead289 yeah it makes sense in theory but the reason I'm asking is because no one clearly states how the piston stop is to be set up, all the vids I see on here they all just bolt on the piston stop then don't mention anything else about it until it's time to remove it, ....but aren't you supposed to set the block at "tdc" VIA timing marks before using a piston stop??... the "some place before tdc" as you stated above, where exactly is that?? and how does one determine this exact location in the cylinder to place the piston stop, I know the piston have a point where once the crank reaches its peak during compression stroke (tdc) there's a slight pause before the piston goes back down, during this pause the crank is still turning (just a few degrees) I'm guessing this is what you mean by "dwell" where the piston is flush or somewhat flush with the deck of the block and is about to roll over the wristpin to go back down, I just need to know where exactly before and after that dwell to place the piston stop, is there a numerical factor in play here or am I just supposed to "eyeball" it and pick a random spot right before it "dwells" then place the stop there and document the degree, then rotate it again then document that number??
@@ThunderHead289 sorry man, I'm a quick learner but I'm 100% hands on, or at the very least in person so I can ask questions directly and in the moment, I might be a bit hard headed lol but i rewatched your video literally 17 times and understood everything else down to the math, but still couldn't figure out how the placement for the piston stop was determined, I need a bit more insight on this 🙏🙏 please if you could , very well appreciated man
@majorkin19 It doesn't matter what depth the piston stop is at. What you are doing with it is finding two arbitrary points which are the same on either side of TDC and finding the halfway point in crank degrees, which would be true TDC. The piston dwells at TDC for a few degrees, because of the crank pin rollover, making it hard to find the exact center of that dwell at TDC, even with a dial gauge, because the dial will stay still for many degrees of crankshaft rotation while the piston dwells at TDC. So by averaging two points of the piston's travel, where there is no dwell, you can find the exact center (in crankshaft degrees) of TDC.
I hate doing this on my built small engines
Its the worst part of building racing engines lol
Deboss Garage sent me.
Ah, the power tour trip!
Was a hell of a good time, video can’t quite capture how much fun we had
So is degreeing a cam just for verification purposes? Is it absolutely needed?
If you have the right cam and it’s ground right, it doesn’t add any performance per say - many things play into this including the timing chains. I usually find cams to be 2-4 degrees off of the cars typically.
I have actually got the wrong cam once! Degreeing the cam caught it!
@@ThunderHead289 what does the 2-4 degrees off do to the power/engine longevity?
What if the block hasn't been decked and the piston does not come to the top completely? Seems a dial gauge would be more accurate?
Then you would still use the piston stop because you can never “see” true TDC.
@@ThunderHead289 I'll continue to watch tho video over and over until.I understand it. Fixing to put the top end on my 302 all by myself. Not a big deal to most, but It is to me.
@@ThunderHead289 what I dont understand is how you set that piston stop up. How do you figure out how to adjust the stop for a non decked block or one that has been decked? Or, does it stop the piston down inside the bore the same on all blocks?
@@19jody72 It doesn't matter what depth the piston stop is at. What you are doing with it is finding two arbitrary points which are the same on either side of TDC and finding the halfway point in crank degrees, which would be true TDC. The piston dwells at TDC for a few degrees, because of the crank pin rollover, making it hard to find the exact center of that dwell at TDC, even with a dial gauge, because the dial will stay still for many degrees of crankshaft rotation while the piston dwells at TDC. So by averaging two points of the piston's travel, where there is no dwell, you can find the exact center (in crankshaft degrees) of TDC.
@@johnny0454 Thanks for explaining that! I've never figured that out until just now when I read that.👍👊
We only install according to manufacturer's specifications. Also we do not have computations for wheel alignment time?
What do you mean “wheel alignment time”
+ThunderHead289 No, I just asked us to install according to the manufacturer's specifications. I ask you ?
+ThunderHead289 I want to ask you do not have your own installation?
Long Tat it is best to install to manufacturer specification. Personally, I like to advance the cam a couple of degrees if I have the piston to valve clearance because the timing chain is going slack a bit right off. So that extra 2 I add is lost in the first 5000 miles
My car own business?
2 degrees advance is Okay, putting the old chain on is a bad idea, som Oem factory chains have plastic teeth on the cam gear which yours does not, but you can still mess up the sprocket or jump time, even with a double roller.
I don’t know what you are getting at. I run aftermarket chains - I prefer to be a little advanced because the chain will wear about two degrees pretty quick
I'd never use a piston stop.
Use a dial indicator to find accurate tdc.
We're talking less than half a degree here - you are literally arguing against deflection in the piston stop.
Now if you are arguing that I should look for when the dial quits moving, that's highly inaccurate since a piston dwells as the rod rolls over center on the crank (crank actually moves while the piston is momentarily stationary)
@@ThunderHead289 to find the roll over is why I use a dial indicator
What size cam was you running in the galaxy? Would like my 67 fairlane to be like that
+Matthew Simpson it was the Comp 271+ nostalgia solid lifter cam. I believe they still sell it. Was a great all around cam. I’d run it again in roller form
ThunderHead289 I'll check it out I'm about to do a rebuild. What was pushrod length?
Matthew Simpson that I can’t remember, but it will definitely be variable depending on what heads, rockers, head gasket thickness, and so on that you go for
ThunderHead289 I'm running a c4 automatic you think I should run a mild stall converter
ThunderHead289 would you run the n271h or n271soild lift
I don't see dweal on the cam card any where please call it like it is... PLEASE
Dwell is just a term I use to describe the pistons motion. While the connecting rod rolls over the center axis on the crank, the piston will technically not be moving up or down. So though the degree of the crank is changing, the piston doesn’t move - this can be referred to as dwell 👍
ThunderHead289 Most people don't understand that is why I say use the terms from the card. You may get above most people's head. Thanks for replying back. Good video Thanks again. .
Do I have to do this when installing any aftermarket camshaft ?
Yup...
In italiano
Why adjust the wheel to 90?? Why not 35? Or 73
It actually doesn’t matter, it just makes the numbers easier to read that way. Try it when not doing that and you’ll see, just easier to make an accidental math mistake
everytime he says go ahead, you have to drink
My skills and abilities do not include public speaking 😅
@@ThunderHead289 T.H 289,
I DO completely respect your skills and videos tho!
Why 90 initially?
You can do it however, it just makes the math visually easier - the numbers come out straightforward
@@ThunderHead289 thank you 👍
@@ThunderHead289 I'm working on a 350 rn (sorry) just curious at true TDC are the 2 dots lined up? For me the dots are at 12 o'clock, not face to face. Is this correct?
Is that the number 1 piston? Chevy and Mopar designate the # 1 piston as driver side front. Must be a Ford? Just another reason I'm not a Ford guy.
Since everyone else is kind of an idiot, here you are learning from a ford guy.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025
on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas
station per city or county. Now they want to slow down all the gas station fuel
pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in
the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems,
turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and
New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be
done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of
crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(((
i didnt understand it thunderhead, u had checking springs on 1 side & u worked of the other side plus my card is different than yours very confussing might just get a mobile mech to do it 4 me! urg!
This is all too complicated. I am going to walk everywhere from now on.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
666th like. Great vid.
The devil himself would be proud.
Thanks!
Why do you say “go ahead” so much. Just say what you are going to do without the go ahead bit. Yanks say it sooooo much. Go ahead and try it! 😉
Man, I’ll tell you what ol son, if anyone wants to try and make such an in depth video while they are in 20 degree weather with perfect work precision, feel free to knock me off my throne
ThunderHead289
Hey chill dude. Just wondering why you say it so much, that’s all. Sorry if you took offence. It wasn’t meant. Cheers...