How to modify a stock crank to entry level race crank.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2025
- In this, episode 88 of Powertec 10, DV shows how to upgrade a stock crank to an entry level race crank and pick up power while doing so. Using a Chrysler 318 crank from Uncle Tony's 'Mission Impossible' project he shows what and where a great deal of metal can be safely removed. Although a Chrysler crank is used here the same techniques can be applied to almost any production V8 crank
I want to share this with you vizard fans. As a younger man in my early 20’s aroun the late 90’s I purchased his cylinder head book. I read it front to back and back to front numerous times. I built my first serious engine using his tips tricks and techniques in cylinder head flow. I ported my heads for this engine. I put this engine in my daily driven 3rd gen camaro. First time out to the track it went faster than my hoped for time by over half a second. I just wanted a 12.0 daily driven combo. This thing, full weight, nice car, everything worked and on some crap 555r radials with the cords showing, blistered a 11.56 at 121 mph. I credit most of what I learned on cylinder head porting to this man. Thanks David for sharing your hard learned secrets!
Travis - you are very welcome,
@@DavidVizard hi sir, is it possible to use your knowledge in the video on a 4 cyl. crank ? what's your tought ? and thanks for your videos
I read his book and used almost the one 400 chart for my 406 build in my c3. Everyone said I was overcarbbed would be a dog etc. It's the fastest engine I ever built!
Also I polished and ported every oil passage and molded my hp950 carb even knife edging the butterflies and screwheads... molded the melling oil pump per his book it shoots oil 8" over the headers now. Lol
@@kermitahnenerbe3722 Doesn't matter what kind of crank, the basic principals are always the same.
My condolences To David for losing that young lady and my ongoing gratitude for the generous contribution you make to our lives sharing such wisdom ..
You always put out a good lecture thank you..last august i lost my oldest son to suicide(33yrs old)he showed no sighns of a problem,,,please every body keep in touch with your kids,,,and ask them questions and let them know your there for them
Something is happening with our children's generation, and I don't understand it, but we lost our oldest daughter back in September she suffered from depression and anxiety. I am like you wishing I would have been there for her more or done more. But she gave no sign of that serious of an issue. She was showing signs of improvement. That is the nature of depression I suppose, One minute you feel fine the next you enter a dark place. God Bless anyone who has lost a child..Rest in peace my sweet Erin.
@Kelly Hines so sorry both of you for your loss. I agree this generation is wally different than it was for us. But back in 80s i broke up with a girl whrn I was 18 the day I found out she was 15 and not 18 like she said and a hour later she committed suicide so idk if maybe the news wasn't as instant back then maybe our generation also had some issues as well. That said my wife and I also lost a daughter (a accident) and it is the hardest thing any parent can go through. It took me 3 or 4 years before I made it ONE day not crying at least once and that day I felt guilty I didn't think of her. It's so hard.
Thanks again for all you do. I always get nervous grinding by crank journals. So I get radiator hose and cut it into rings wide enough to cover the journals and hold 'em on with zip ties. Then grind to my hearts content
Or just tape the old bearings on
I use a PVC pipe and ducttape
I know when I get a grinder into my hands, especially a small one like a die grinder, or a dremel tool it's very easy for them to get away from me and either take more than you wanted off, or to hit something you didn't want to touch. As David demonstrated it's a great idea to cover up what you don't want to touch. It's also a task that takes some practice to get good at it. We need to take our time. Getting in a hurry is often the cause of mistakes and of course take the time to understand what we're taking off and why.
Yap yap yap yapity yap.
Watch my video about a crap crankshaft SCAT sent me and how I fixed it.
WARNING ⚠️
IF YOU HAVEN'T BEEN GRINDING SINCE THE STONE AGE YOU MAY WELL HAVE CONSIDERABLY LESS CONSISTENT RESULTS...
IF YOU AIN'T
CHUCKY THE CHIPPER
YOU MAY WANT TO START ON A PRACTICE CRANK
IF YOU CAN'T HANG ON TO A GRINDER YOU'RE GOING TO FIND OUT !
ONE SLIP
😐
This guy is a sculptor
That is complete art work !
I grind outside as much as possible in the shade , which gives best natural light, with a fan blowing the dust away that way I don’t get a workshop full of dust, but your neighbors might winge if you live in suburbia. Concrete goes rusty brown from the dust also
Always wear tight fitting eye protection because sparks and burr grinders hit the weird edges and go every direction.
I had David vizards books
From the 80s got me started in engine reconditioning so helpful Thankyou
I have just discovered this goldmine of information from an absolute gentleman, thank you DV.
My sincere and heartfelt condolences to you on your loss, may she rest in peace.
Thank you from Australia, Rock On!
My heart aches for those parents who’ve lost their children. I have two young adults who are both on the Autism Spectrum. When they were young my wife and I joined groups to get help and help others. It was at one of these groups meetings that we discovered how hard it was, raising a child that isn’t expected to live very much longer. One young mother had a girl who had numerous birth defects and genetic diseases. Through meeting her and hearing her families story, we gained strength in raising our boys. We realized that we weren’t alone, and God brought us our children for a reason. For us the fight was all mental, and not much in the way of physical problems except they both have an allergy to Peanuts and Tree Nuts. We learned how to keep them safe, and help them grow to their full potential. In my mind we had it easy compared to those parents who have lost their kids. David, I wish I could be there to help. I wish I could be a third hand for the people putting this engine together. Best of luck, and may it scream when it’s done!
When I did this to a crank at the performance shop I worked at all the genius guys I worked with told me I was crazy. I was like it’s getting balanced when I’m done guys. You’d be crazy not too using a stock crank. Get every HP you can out of your engine without throwing 1000’s of dollars at it.
I'd love to see the rest of the process for a complete rotating assembly up to balancing
Me too!
David Vizard? As in the How to build a race engine book David Vizard?! Oh wow! I didn't know You, Sir, have started to put your wisdom out in YT. Thank you Sir ❤.
Ive smoothed my cranks and polished those counterweights for years . Worth every minute of effort .
I liked the Icon pistons i used in my 434 Big Block build, they were very close in weight, finish was very nice and clearences were dead on.
Thank you Mr Vizard for the knowledge you’re sharing with us. Would be an honor working in your shop learning from you that way, but I’ll take what I can get. I’ve learned so much from just watching your videos and listening to you describe your techniques you’ve used and I just wanted to say I appreciate you taking the time out making these videos. All the best!
The Yellow bible is my favourite book ever. Thanks from a Mini fan.
These videos have been paramount in refreshing my latest Honda engine.
Essentially free power performance and knowledge, many many years knowledge from a very decorated engine builder, thank you so much your knowledge is priceless ❤
I am building a stroker motor for my jeep 4.0 and you can bet I will be doing this to my crank tomorrow as soon as I get home from work !!! awesome thanks for the video !
The bob weight will be light , thank you David!
Thank you so much for applying your time and knowledge on the little Chrysler 318 to everyone here for free. I have personally learned so much from this series, you sir are my hero
Thanks DV for all you do! You are a man of great knowledge, skill and heart!
Thank you David!
I nearly lost my son when born to meningitis. The feelings at that time when we were told to fear the worst were so bad I couldn’t wish it upon anyone. Luckily Dominic came through with only bi lateral profound deafness.
To have lost a child must be overwhelming. And I pray that you and others who suffer this kind of unimaginable loss can find a measure of peace.
Your drive, enthusiasm, and knowledge, has filled me with inspiration to undertake these mods on my 72 Ford 400.
I have your porting book. And will be getting more of them soon. And hopefully next year once I’ve finished the bodywork on my LTD. I can set about the engine with confidence.
God bless David, Andy,& Tony.
Sou Brasileiro e tenho livros do mestre David wizard,aqui temos poucos v8,v6,mas temos muitos six in line GM e vw ap,quero agradecer pelo tempo e dedicação do mestre por dividir seu conhecimento.
I had to put those target pads on parts when i was a machinist, but it was for parts I'd never see. Cool to see it come up in real life .
Thank you for all you do , most appreciated and informative. Good luck with the raffle.
I did this as a job for a few years. Top race bikes. We used a belt grinder and sometimes a bridgeport or a lathe. Lots of polishing wheels. Remove all stress risers, knife edge cranks and sometimes rods.
Hi Dave One thing after another!you keep on truckin
David, thank you for your knowledge, I've had my two 72 Pinto 2.0L cars since the 80's, they still run great, I tell people, I got the last ones!
Always read your books Mr Vizard thank you.
Hello mr vizard. Awesome video and good explanation. I am going to be applying all of the things youve been teaching to a 3.6 pentastar offset stroker build i have planned. I plan on putting .070 over pistons and offset strokeing it to 4.0 liters. I am looking for eventually the world record for n/a pentastars.
Pentastar? Ewww lol
I have a lot of your literature you have a wealth of knowledge
David: Thank you for this video. I'm going to give the information a try. Wish me luck!
Thank you for what you do, god bless you.
Thank you for taking your valuable time to share your vast knowledge accrued over many years of modifying, building, and testing engines! I learn something helpful from every video you post. I am always impressed by the breadth and depth of your experience and knowledge! Please ignore the negative comments, as I'm sure many of those posters mean well and just have a terse way of phrasing their question / concern / critique. I'm sure they're a lot more fun to be around in person than on the internet, lol ;)
If I were grinding on a crankshaft like that, I would cut up some thin cutting board sheet and wrap all the journals. One slip with that grinder and it's all over...
He's probably using a throw away for this demonstration...
Cool to watch!
Great Work DV
Noble Endeavour
Thanks!
Hey Mr V8 thanks a lot. Always notice your comments when you post.
Great stuff as usual DV
Great show as usual, David… But I believe in buying quality tools , you can get those cheap ones and they will last a while If you don’t use them that much and push them but they eventually crap out .Matebo,Bosch, then pretty much everybody else from there. I tortured grindersfor a living and tested the Metal of many of grinder finding that wanting except for these two brands I previously mentioned the Meebo is absolutely perfect piece of engineering… Keep on rocking
I would enjoy a more dedicated look at windage and how to combat it in a future video. Nothing like getting power and improving efficiency!
Iv taken some of these practices from your videos and applied it to my 588a Chrysler 4 cylender and wow !! Iv turned 8700 rpm out of this at the track. Engine still holds together and the powerban is between 5400- 8500 she's a very Rev happy engine. I know alot of what you teach is older minis. And v8s but just wanted to say thank you !
Am so sorry to hear of your loss😢 no words can make up for this
Thanks David!! Magnificent content as usual and very easy to learn from. Hoping for more 525 Big Block Chevy info down the road....having trouble finding pistons.
I'm sure David would agree that if your doing this for the first time , protect the bearing journal's on the crank by wiring on some old bearing shells or shim stock . This is a cast iron crank which is identified by the thin flash line , numbers , sand finish etc. Your engine , depending on age , may have either a cast crank or a forged one which is more desirable, although a cast crank has some desirable properties. A forged crank is identified by a wide flashing , with obvious grinding marks , no through holes in the big end etc., but the process is the same . When deburring using a rotary tool , take time to radius the oil exits on big end and mains to improve oil flow but do this after gaining experience with the tool on the metal in non critical areas of the crank .
To reduce the wind age in the crankcase and overpressure oil leaks , I run a constant vacuum by using an alternator from a diesel engine that is fitted with a brake servo vacuum pump . Fitted to numerous Japanese engines you also benefit from the very reliable Denso type with high quality bearings and seals rated at high rpm . Both the vacuum pump and alternator can be modified to aircraft spec with little cost and effort and to make the pump adjustable for depression if you are fitting your modified engine in a kit build aircraft .
Good one. i did this years ago on my Ford CVH cranckshaft, and did some polishing at it as well, to reduce "oildrag'
Real Hotroddin'!! SUPER JOB!!!!
I have done crank mods on all my maximum effort engines 😁 every free HP is worth the effort 😁 your videos are always awesome
Really enjoy this mopar engine series. The grinding of the connecting rods are out of the hands of a DIY project and I don't know if a machine shop would take on the meticulous grinding process or what they would charge if they did.
I worked in an engine shop,and when I was building one for myself I wanted to do all the little tricks like this so I was asking a couple of the race guys ,and they're like don't bother it's not worth all the time.
But to me it is , so it's a diy because you're right, a shop will never do this, and/or it would cost a fortune if they did.
Thank you so much for a great video! Really appreciate this 318 series! Question, how much grinding, or removal is safe to remove before getting a rebalance?
Hey DV can i do this crank shaving process on a 1996-97 lt1 350? I love your videos and the knowlegdge that comes with it we definitely need more men like you thanks for everything
And it is a stock crank
@DavidVizard
David . I would love to hear your opinion on flat plane cranks. Regarding differences in can specs exhaust flow torque and Hp figures across a given rpm range. My friend , you are a living legend. May god bless you and your family. 👍🥃🇦🇺
Greetings from Russia (Novosibirsk)!!! Thank you for your work. Just today I am trying to make my crankshasf lighter and I use the same instruments. I talk about old soviet car manufactured in 1986 (Moskvich 21406). It has only 75 h/p but the crankshaft is 37.48 lb(17kg). Unfortunately there is no usefull video in russian language. I have subscribed on you! Thank you again!
Thanks for this, when i was working at an engine shop and building an engine for a project i was askin the race guy if there was anything to be had with the crank.
He said it wasnt worth the time,i figured he was being lazy and since i didn't know what to chase i left it alone.
Really bothers me to this day , i like all the little mods that add up to something worthwhile.
Me and a buddy had the same cars and same setup, but i always went that little extra.
And id find out by the time 1st gear revved out as id have a fender on him already.
Great stuff David. Looking forward to the next instalment. Regards Greg
Thank you , you afirm my thought on improving cranks,
For the beginner I would recommend fitting some shim steel bands held with jubilee clips to the journals as one slip and its goosed
This is very timely for me, as I am prepping a 440 crank and was wandering what those dogs, lugs, or pads around rods 7 and 8 were doing there. Is there a all or nothing approach for this or can I stop when I feel I have removed enough? Meaning I don't think I will be able to achieve the level that you will take it to, but do enough to make a difference. I have the bob weights for the new Icon pistons and lightened & balanced rods thanks to your videos. After this I will be ready to bring the crank in for final balancing. Thanks, I have already supported (3 space pups) and will continue to support St. Jude's.
My respect to you sir, I appreciate what you are doing. I'm really inspired by your video, I think I'm going to pick up a cheap and easy project to work on! since I live in Europe my choice is a Fiat 126 twin piston air cooled engine, in addition to modifying the crankshaft, I will lighten the flywheel and connecting rods, I will try to find motorcycle pistons that fit the engine, a motorcycle carburetor, finally a modified exhaust system. it's a 650cc 24hp engine, if i get 5 to 10hp i'll be happy. I'll probably play with the engine head too 😃
Thanks for all this info !
I suppode the crankshaft has to by balanced after that procedure with dummy weights to simulate rods and pistons.
Man david you and crew have done alot of work on that 318 masaging and wat not great work guys .wen you think this be done for dyno?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge David.
Holy crap.... 6 friggin pounds!
That's a LOT of metal!.
When you know what you're doing.......
Good things happen!
are you going to run a windage tray?
They would not let us remove the pads in stock. Do not be afraid of Iron cranks. For the AMC Indy project we tried both stock ARMASTEEL and High PSI cast nodular iron. Both worked with no failures, cranks were detailed similar to what Dave Shows Made 1200 hp and over 1000 for 3 hrs on the Champion Spark Plug dyno simulating race rpm early single turbo with early head and Fordgedtrue pistons made 800 hp but the BBC chevy size pins flexed and kicked out the double spiralocks. Went to Chrysler Hemi pins and inboard pin boss Bob Brooks pistons ran the combo up to 7K but did not race at that rpm
Try the Diablo 36 grit flap wheel disc for initial removing. It’s a beast
Thanks David for showing your tricks of the trade, I'm from South Africa and mostly only work(modify) on four cylinder VW and Audi engines ,cause that's whats most popular in our country, we don't have those nice big V8's lying around here.
I'm getting almost completely gray myself, but I'm surely learning a lot on your channel, thanks again🫡
Reminds me of a Datsun 1200 motor that I modified some yrs ago for speedway use in NZ. Spent 2 days with 2 grinders (one with a cut-off blade). Stripped off the counter weights and every other bit that I could. Massive port job and hugh valves etc even lightened the cam followers and valve gear. First time out after those mods it pulled SO hard that it broke the drive train, over reved and did some damage, by the time I got it running again I sold it to fund a world trip. To this day I still regret not getting it running right again and keeping it, it would have won everything, but the trip was a once in a life time anyway.
after I've watched all of your crank modification viedeos I am promise that I can do some modifications on my crank.
I've also subscribe every video to support your charity project.
Thank you Mr.DV!! I wonder how does this grinding affects the combined balance of the flywheel and crankshaft in sbc?
,,, not at all, you just don't start the balance process, till after you have the crank where you want it . Of course you might keep in mind where you are grinding, but the final balance is later . The small blocks are internal balance, except for the 400, but the former statement still applies .
would cover those bearing surfaces with TP rolls and tape. avoid pitting and debris in oil journals. just seems kinda sloppy to me.
I'm worried about the metal spraying affect,but I know Dave would normally cover it.
I doubt it's a usable crank
Would shot peening be beneficial for the ground down part of the crank
If you have the means milling off most of the material would be a lot quicker quieter and less messy. Failing that, a good metal cutting blade might do the job. A portaband in places where it'll fit, even a drill press coring out large parts of the waste.
I hate grinding honestly, it's my least favorite shop activity 😅
The dust is the worst.
I've helped pops have to grind something that's set up in the lathe or mil and he goes crazy with blankets all over to protect the equipment.
I see it's something you don't want to do on a regular basis unless you've got an area set up to do it.
I wanna see you do an 4.8. All stock but add a cam. Stock everything max effort build grind it cut it !
Im confussed, i thought this project was all stock parts. Lowest budget possible?
Put masking tape on the journals, The hot metal from the angle grinder like to stick onto everything and ruin smooth surfaces.
Put many layers on, or get some aluminum duct tape for air ducts, it will not melt.
Isn't that stream of hot iron and carbide being driven onto the bearing surfaces a concern? Would wrapping the bearing surfaces in tape mitigate that damage?
If one would like to send out his crankshaft to be modified like that and balanced where would it be?
That harbor freight cheapie lasted me about 15 minutes of contenual use .
Unlike a good one . Made for contenous use.
One may last long enough to do a crank ?
Question! Will you polish everything in the end or does this crank now demand shot peening to retain its strength
How does all this "weight savings" get balanced?? It seems like it would cause extreme vibration and may tear itself apart. When your grinding all that metal off you just eye ball it and not taking the exact same amount as on another side. Even if you put it on a crank balancer it still doesn't make sense to me how it would be okay?
Love watching Your videos they're very informative. This has just been in the back of my.mind for a while now after watching many of your videos.
Yeah no way on this one. I just can't see it.. that's common physics and has to dramatically weaken that crank
I have seen Dyno tests where they tested a fairly stock engine with no windage tray no Crank or any other bottom end modifications, after 3 baseline runs to get it hot and get an average set of numbers they started draining oil one quart at a time, they picked up more and more numbers and it made the most power it ever made right before it gave up...i won't say any numbers here so it doesn't start an argument but I will say oil control, making parts that interact with oil in the pan have the least amount of drag as you can, will free up enough to feel and see at the track...not to mention keeping your oil from being aerated and keeping the oil pump pickup submerged will keep you from losing oil pressure during hard cornering, hard acceleration, hard deceleration Etc...holy...there is no way that removing 6 pounds from your rotating assembly will not help...that's ounces of weight not being swung up and down like...116 times a second at 7000rpm? My math may be wrong but I know that crankshaft is dealing with a lot of forces at 7k rpm and removing that much weight will be a good thing...maybe I missed it but did he say anything about removing any sharp edges ? If I remember correctly Sharp edges can give cracks a place to start....I need to rewatch this and make sure I'm not missing any great information...I doubt he will see my comment but I appreciate every video he makes...I appreciate the time and effort he has put into his work and the fact that he is willing to share the knowledge he's worked so hard to gain with us for free...
So just matching the weight of material removed you should be able to keep it balanced without needing to check or have a machine shop
If I where to do this I would mount the crank in v blocks on my Bridgeport mill, ah, like David does on the rod end...
The leaks in my ranger are my indication of the fill level. If the engine stops leaking, I’m a quart low on oil. If the trans stops leaking.. well then my 5spd is effed. Lol
ALWAYS GREAT CONTENT THANKS
Hi David, Can you please please do a video on performance/race BMC B series 1800 5 main bearing engines?? It has been a very long time since your A series work and I really think it would help the community if you could impart your modern day thinking to this very well utilized engine. Best regards, Stuart.
Beautiful West Country accent but I assume you live in the USA.
I had no intention of looking on how to grind my crank but really want to do it on my van, my wife’s car and our 1989 Talbot express camper now.
I have trouble changing the oil but I’m sure I can get the cranks out easily enough.
Do I still have a west country accent??????????????
@@DavidVizard yes. Absolutely Mr Vizard.
It day matta wheire eye gao, faux alwayz kull me a brummie! Eye car loose the accent r kid.
Bu eye aye from Brum neeva! Eyem frum Bewdley.
🇦🇬
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️, as usual.
Please continue “Five Golden Rules Of Porting” episodes; been 3 months since last one.
🙇🏾♂️
I would like to see the center gravity balance after and before
Getting so much material off the big end side you will never compensade it on the other side. And when the rods and pistons aren't lightened as well the whole matter is out of balance.
The crank needs to be balanced by a good machine shop afterwards.
Yessir, it is good to get out and enjoy God,'s handi work. God is good all the time!
I'm going to assume here, that you do not want to really lean into the grinder, as not to heat up the crank too much? Wouldn't that effect the metallurgy of the crank? Would it be different for a forging as apposed to a casting?
I always wondered why people dont grind all that extra metal from cranks.
Thank you, David.
David, as someone returning to minis after a near 40 year gap, ive just bought another copy of your yellow bible, the first being waaay back then.
Would it be possible for me to do this on a 1275 crank? I know i can pay to have it wedged, but can i do anything like you have done on this video with it?
Does everything have to be rebalanced and How do I do that?
Thank you David!
DV Why did you leave so much meat on the rod cap and or not cut a slot in that balance weight to get 4 surface areas instead of 2 as shown?
Hi DV, will these methods also work on a 360 Chrysler crank as they are externally balanced? Thanks, love your work!
Big thanks to you for sharing,
Can a DIYer drill the holes in the crank rod throws?
Great question. Does the hole need to be centered not to cause an odd expansion/ contraction problem.?And how close to an oil passage would be safe?
@@jimlathrop8603 Stick a coat hanger or welding rod in the oil passage and measure-line-up from there. I would want to miss by fifty thou.
Not difficult if you engineering experience and you have access to a machine shop,and a Milling Machine or if you think you are capable you could use a pedestal drill and make a jig. Setup and angle and allowance for oil passages might cause you a problem if you are Not careful.