People use piston stops and a do a lot of other lengthy processes to find absolute TDC. The easiest way there it to find TDC is to dial indicate the piston on the center of the top. Rotate the engine until the piston comes up and as soon as the needle stops moving, mark the degree wheel. Start rotating in the same direction and as soon as the needle starts to move again you mark the degree wheel. At the center of the marks is TDC divine the degrees in half between your marks. Simple and easy.
Checkout my TDC degree wheel fixture for the big bore short stroke combo I am putting together. I use the dial indicator once to find TDC and permantly set the fixture to my combo. Now I can find TDC in less than 10 seconds anytime I need to without wasting time with the dial indicator
Who cares! I can't stand Chief, but even though I been known for many years how to do it, I still watch and support John's channel. It is good info for people who don't known and not everyone watch dude.
@danmyers9372 like what because the gear stayed on the cam. I guess there is something I'm missing. As long as u leave the cam gear alone, I don't see what can move.
@@1clnsdime1he’s moving it because he wants more power in the upper rpm range. Retarding the cam moves the power band up or later in the rom band. Advancing the cam would give it more low end power or lower in the rpm range. Doing no prep racing you don’t want as much power down low so you’re not fighting for traction as much off the line but this way he will making more power down track.
If you are advancing the camshaft 6 degrees 104 to 110 you are basically changing your power band for example 9000 rpm down to 7000 rpm you are making everything happen sooner in the engine cycle correct
Who cares. I have some nice digital Mitutoyo OD mics, ID mic, and Calipers and some nice Starrett dial indicators that only get used when building engines. Muy buddies know exactly how to use them but don't always call them the right thing, but who cares nobody is perfect.
Thanks for all your hard work John. You’re my favorite how to guy on the internet.
Have never seen anyone degree a cam off a cam lobe like this before. Just shows there many different ways of accomplishing the same task.
People use piston stops and a do a lot of other lengthy processes to find absolute TDC. The easiest way there it to find TDC is to dial indicate the piston on the center of the top. Rotate the engine until the piston comes up and as soon as the needle stops moving, mark the degree wheel. Start rotating in the same direction and as soon as the needle starts to move again you mark the degree wheel. At the center of the marks is TDC divine the degrees in half between your marks. Simple and easy.
Checkout my TDC degree wheel fixture for the big bore short stroke combo I am putting together.
I use the dial indicator once to find TDC and permantly set the fixture to my combo.
Now I can find TDC in less than 10 seconds anytime I need to without wasting time with the dial indicator
Great how 2 video john..
👍👍😎💪💯
Excellent information TJohn!🤩🤩
What about your crank thrust ??
What name of the belt drive you using/ do you like it?
Important..having that knowledge in your tool box.
That what they call your head '°°pct
Big Chief already did a very detailed instruction on how to degree a camshaft
Which means no one else can do a video on it 😂
There are many different ways people do it. And many of his would rather watch John than Chief.
Who cares! I can't stand Chief, but even though I been known for many years how to do it, I still watch and support John's channel. It is good info for people who don't known and not everyone watch dude.
Just curious why you didn’t lube to the cam. I know your very smart so I thought there may have been a reason?
I lubed the bearings, and also had oil on the cam....
So if u didnt move anything since u had the engine apart why do u have to re degree the cam?
The engine was totally apart. Everything was moved.
@danmyers9372 like what because the gear stayed on the cam. I guess there is something I'm missing. As long as u leave the cam gear alone, I don't see what can move.
@@1clnsdime1he’s moving it because he wants more power in the upper rpm range. Retarding the cam moves the power band up or later in the rom band. Advancing the cam would give it more low end power or lower in the rpm range. Doing no prep racing you don’t want as much power down low so you’re not fighting for traction as much off the line but this way he will making more power down track.
Who makes the tool with the dial indicator that goes in the lifter hole? I feel like I need one.
A bunch of companies make them but for hobby guy a cheap $75 Proform Cam Checking Tool
If you are advancing the camshaft 6 degrees 104 to 110 you are basically changing your power band for example 9000 rpm down to 7000 rpm you are making everything happen sooner in the engine cycle correct
yes, advanced makes more low end and retarding makes more upper rpm
What is the lobe separation of the Cam?
Just line up the to tick marks on crank and cam gear !!
Maybe on a 300 HP stockish street car.
John I’m curious how Brian makes any money letting his racing buddies use his shop and his tools?
He's a body shop that does restorations mostly. He's done with mechanics for the most part now, except our race car stuff.
Decreeing the cam is just as if not more then ignition timing
60 lbs here you come
Advancing or retarding cam timing will give you more bottom end or top end respectively 🤯
all this talk of micrometers and not one in sight. lol
Lmao you beat me to it. It drives me nuts when people call a caliper a micrometer. Then the next tool, this is a micrometer lol
Who cares. I have some nice digital Mitutoyo OD mics, ID mic, and Calipers and some nice Starrett dial indicators that only get used when building engines. Muy buddies know exactly how to use them but don't always call them the right thing, but who cares nobody is perfect.
A difficult headache!😡
Great how 2 video john..
👍👍😎💪💯
Thanks 👍