How do you know your at TDC without a degree wheel? That motor probably has 3 to 5 degrees of piston dwell. Go ahead and try to prove me wrong without using your "frisbee". The simple fact that roller and flat tappet cams have different ramp rates pretty much makes your feeler gauge measurements meaningless. Never mind the fact that every single grind different than yours has a different ramp rate. I once ordered a cam and found out the the wrong cam was in the box. The only way I knew is because I used a degree wheel, micrometer and the specs didn't match the cam card. You couldn't have found that with a feeler gauge. If you truly felt so strongly about shitty quality control you wouldn't be using your degree wheel as a frisbee.
So, Mr. "Building/Racing Videos...with all your expertise building and racing, you don't know how to split dwell at TDC without using a wheel? Maybe you need to build and race some more?? Also, you are absolutely correct about different types of cams and different ramps, HOWEVER, that .006 equaling 2 degrees is a good enough "ballpark" to get you there with any cam. If you have issues with this method, go buy yourself a freakin ouija board and get ahold of Keith Black, because this is the method he developed in order to make quick camshaft timing changes at the track. Actually, it was Mr. Black himself that told me how to do this when I bought a cam and gear drive from him back in the 1980's. If you get through, give him my regards.
I don't even build engines, however Tony is very entertaining anyway. I do wrench on cars, but I won't call myself a "gearhead" until I build an engine.
Bill Gliden and the Grump were totally different people with different methods. They were both professionals. Are we with comments as pro as uncle Tony. I have used this method a hundred times. It works! We as engineers need to continue to share knowledge of our research after experiments. Don't crash on our way to Mars together!!!!
I've never had it explained to me in such a brilliant way... genius! It really is the old guys that have great knowledge... Many thanks.. Love your work.. 👍
TONY, Similar method to mine. Use dial indicator to verify T.D.C. Align marks on t.c. gears and check lifter pair for height. Adjust or change out cam as necessary. Then rotate assembly 360 degrees and check marks and corresponding cylinder at T.D.C. and lifters for height. I generally do Ford stuff and recently source new cam and valvetrain parts that are 20-40 years old. I've seen others have bad cams and lifters, that are of recent production. Even aftermarket rocker arm ratios that aren't the same from the same box! B.T.W. I 've had a Crane H-302-NC Cam with Isky Hydraulic "Super-Lifters" (2-bleed holes) and Crane Swedish steel "Oteva" springs in my 1969 351W Mach 1 for over the past 50! years and still running strong. Thank you for your common-man, blue-collar advise and builds.
One of the many things I like about Uncle's videos is his explanations of things others miss. The TDC of cylinder 6, for example, in cam timing. Good stuff..
This is really awesome. I've done a handful of motors over the years....440, and 2 383's and used this method. My grandad showed me this in the early 1980's when I was 12-13. It needs to be close....and the rest is up to distributor and timing. Old school. Clearly there are many more technical way to do it, with lost of $200 bits and pieces....but this works 95% as good. Dot to Dot, and if its way off.....get another cam.
Ya know...if these "experts" know how to degre a cam...WHY would u watch this video...? I've never degred a cam the U.T.'s way...BUT...I wount knock it till I try it...!..! When u work on fuel cars even 4 a short wile...YOU can learn things that the "avarage" mechanic "cant"...!...! I workd in the field with a tride & true Drag racer...& he was a wealth of knowage...!.Thanks tony 4 the video...KEEP'M coming...!
These are videos I'll surely rewatch more diligently when I've actually got an engine on a stand about ....right over there. (I tend to think of cars before engines, so actually doing a whole engine for myself is something I've yet to do.(Actually for my Volvo, I'd want to put in a more suitable engine, then give the one I have the attention that deserves and maybe find the car that needs it. :) )
Good on you uncle Tony bloody good video as usual regarding the Loctite I would’ve thought and I was always under the impression the bolt on that top cam gear the big one was threaded in a way that it had a left-hand thread so considering the direction of rotation it was always going to be self tightening…….!!! Or whatever maybe a right-hand thread but the direction of rotation would still make it self tightening I’m surprised to hear that they come loose…..!!!??? Not discounting what you’re saying of course And also great to hear you mention that a dry timing chain leads to stretching and people at home would probably be wondering why or they have not picked up on that point and I’m one of these people that changes my engine oil every 3000 km to much criticism by others But my understanding is that if the timing chain is allowed to run dry from an initial assembly scenario or from a lack of oil changes ie sludge buildup then that lack of lubrication which is also code for a lack of cooling…… lets the chain overheat in a pinpoint manner and as that metal gets too hot it also gets too soft and starts to stretch Generally for a daily driver i find that often people still don’t seem to understand the benefit of frequent oil changes and clean oil at all times….. All the best from Melbourne Australia I did see you on the channel explaining you’ve had Vegemite before and you don’t want any extra no worries mate all the best….!!! I could substitute that with a “king brown” of Melbourne bitter but I also know from watching the channel you don’t drink either……! (A king brown is a 750ml glass stubby - which is basically equivalent to 2 cans or tinnies)
Those cam bolts will come loose, I can confirm that without any doubt at all. Sucks when it happens to, sometimes you get lucky and hear it before it grinds a hole in the timing cover sometimes you don't know about it until it dies.
Another excellent educational video on engine timing, lunrication, cam and lifter thresholds. Again, UT should be teaching auto shop at a local community college or trade school. Seriously. 👍
Timing gear bolt! What Tony says about this is 100% true! You must use lock tight on these and make sure the washer is facing correctly! Had one work loose and thought it was a lifter not pumping up!
I can't wait to put my 383 back together after a fresh rebuild same cam and lifters new timing chain. Same crank, rods,lifters. It ran good before the tear down but I'm going to check it using your method. It's on solid flat tappet lifters so it should be easier to do than a hydraulic lifter because I don't ha e to worry about pushing down the lifter plunger. Keep helping us good ole home builders I got one appreciate it and I'd trust you to build my engine anytime.
I gotta 72 Dodge D-100 Adventurer SE I bought off the original owner has a 400 BB that was replaced thing never ran right after. Me and previous owner decided instead of being a 2 barrel we wanted a 4 barrel more interceptor style build with retrofitted air and a custom ground cam and lock up capable 727. This new build has never ran right never held up to the old worn 400 we took out and watching your videos has gave me new direction on where to go with this thing really wanna enjoy this old truck again things got a hell of a story behind it and too many parts cannons fired at it . Think I have a good direction to start sniffing on this thing to get it right . Thank you for putting your knowledge out there
one thing I'd like to note here Tony is that I personally have encountered aftermarket timing sets that have the timing marks stamped 180 out from factory...this has happened to me 3 times now from a few regular parts stores, I can't recall every brand I encountered this on, but it did cause me confusion the first time around when obviously I went to start the car and found I had to rotate my distributor 180 to get back to running condition...Afterwards I made it a point to always check, and have found this repeatedly...and not a discrepancy on my part, I literally removed the old dot to dot, and replaced without rotating directly and the new marks were both vertical...so watch out!!!
I forgot the loctite on a Ford cam once. Gear fell off, cam slid back, and it cracked half the roller lifters when the next cam lobe slammed into them. Didn't know that for a couple years until I changed the cam. Pulled it out and found deep grooves plowed into it, the rollers badly galled, and thats when i found the cracks in the lifters at the axle for the roller. Lesson learned, don't forget the loctite on the cam bolt.
I've use a similar method "valve rock" to time the distributor basically rock six therfore no1 is top dead on fire. Helpful when someone has pulled a distributor then smoked a fatty. Just pull valve cover valves don't lie. Drank a lot of free beer knowing this over the years.
i like the explanation, I should be able to cross check all 8 cylinders 2 at a time or is that just overkill? Pat over at Powernation just threw his pocket protector on the ground in disgust!!
It's good to Know how to do this incase you're somewhere without you precision dial gauge & the job needs to get done.....Have not done it this way but it's cool.....
Still nada on a degreed cam gear. Any way my 383 me using a Mopar Performance street rod cam that has to be center lined. I do have the off set cam bushings. Sorry I still use the dial indicator to make sure piston is at it's highest point, right at cross over.
Loctite in blind holes, such as pinion gear bolt holes and camshaft bolt holes, should have the Loctite applied inside the bolt holes and not just on the bolt threads. This is because the air pressure caused by threading the bolt into the hole can force the Loctite on the bolt threads out towards the bolt head and the rest of the bolt threads would end up without with Loctite remaining on them. Standard Blue Loctite 242 is very oil sensitive and calls for using Loctite Primer. Blue Loctite 243 is oil tolerant and doesn't require Loctite Primer, but it is not always easy to find.
Honest. I’m a little too OCD with my lifters. Even on a Hydraulic Roller Cam, I typically use the retro-fit cross-bar roller lifters, and I use my electric etcher tool to engrave the cross-bar with a small number corresponding to the cylinder number. Never had a problem breaking cross-bars, and never had problems wiping lobes. It’s not entirely “necessary” on a roller cam, but it works so Imma keep doing it. Additional. Same dealio with everything from Conrods to Pistons to Rocker Arms. In fact, every Rocker Arm has I-1, E-1, I-2, E-2, I-3, E-3, etc. for Intake and Exhaust. Everything always goes back together flawlessly.
Tony do you ever experience cam walk with the big block mopars, I have pulled down a few slants that have had bolts fitted to the timing covers to limit movement, and worked on a solid lifter 454 chev that had a button even though it was flat tappet...Is this aftermarket cam grind insurance do you think.
Hi Tony, love most of your videos bit hard to concentrait with the grand kids ox,anyway do you have or doing a vid installing gear drive, and what its used for(best application)small block prefered?,this series is on hemi bb, do u have a full build guide like this for 318/360 ? last question do you think with a 360 would it be better to bore out a 318 to 4" and use a stroker kit in that or not? i havent had time sadly to build any engines since mid 90s raised now on our 14 children.lol im also in soth australia luckily i have a 318 cl 1977 charger, a chrysler by chrysler 360 1972,and my srt8 300 392 2012, still rather old school.any help from you or other viewers would be great, love ya mate keep up the awesome very detailed videos.God bless you n the helpers.ox
I daily drive a 1972 dodge truck with 318. It has just passed a hundred grand. When should I replace my timing gears and chain. I'm 52 and want to drive my truck for the rest of my life. So I'm into all aspects of what I can do to keep it happy. Regular oil changes ECT.
I would consider doing that soon. I had a 75 dodge pickup with 118k miles. The timing set was worn out. More of a problem is the nylon teeth will get brittle with age and can break instantly. I know of 318 engines going well past 150k miles on their original timing set. But that was 40 years ago. I’ve been told that older dodge pickup engines had all metal timing sets. I don’t think that’s true. My opinion is buy the very best replacement parts you can.
Just curious Tony, using those lifters and lobes would they have different face wear using it in this block now? Like slight different lifter bore position to the cam nose from one engine to another engine. I say that cos the nose of the camshaft might sit and wear in a different position on the lifter face in this engine maybe increasing face wear even if its the matching lifter you just want to be sure thanks
Hi, Uncle Tony! Thank you for the information. Have you done a video on the crate motors from the ‘90s? I have a 360/380 magnum that my dad bought from Summit for his 340 Duster and it’s difficult to find mechanics that know anything about it. It has an aggressive cam and high compression. An example would be one of the mechanics telling me it shouldn’t have anything more than a 600cfm carb, but summit recommended a 750cfm. I had another guy who adjusted the timing and it was so weak when I got it back. Would love for you to do a deep dive on these or tips on how to set it up properly! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
No. TDC end of exhaust stroke. It's set up that way so you can degree the cam from that position. Your assumption is a common on and that's why many first time engine assemblers put the distributor in 180 out of phase. Yeah.... I've done it too. 😜
Uncle Tony, Wouldn't the convex surface of the bottom of the lifters prohibit getting the straight edge to touch all four edges? Sincerely asking. Perhaps flipping them over and using the top side of the lifter to check with a straight edge..? 🤔 Great idea about checking the cam for twist. I'd never woulda thunk that!
I've mostly delt with chevys can't lie I love them but, one of the first great engines I heltlped build was a 360 un my buddy's 360 in his 64 dart. I absolutely love the filter placement in the Mopar. Back in 04 our senior year that 400 hp 360 dart was the second fastest car at school. My boys mid 90s supra was faster. When we beat the*rich kid's) built 2003 wrx Subaru I was so ecstatic. Sadly I wasn't driving that day and the day after we had to rebuild the garbage morpar transmission for the 3rd time. He'll a win is a win. Keep up the great stuff unkl t
So, I've never built and engine but plan to build a small block in the near future. Trying to absorb as much knowledge about everything as I can. My question is, what do you do if I'm the measurement is off? What adjustment needs to be made? Or are you basically just verified the cam was machine correctly and if the measurements are off do you need to send it back and grab a new one?
I was a little bit confused at first too. Learned something new today. Didn’t know the timing marks line up on overlap. I guess another 360 degrees of rotation will bring you up to compression/fire on the harmonic damper
I'm confused too. I guess I've just been real lucky. I've built 8 or 10 engines for myself and friends over the last 30 years. Chevy sb, ford sb and even one 318. I have never once used a degree wheel. One of my 350s ran 7.91 @ 98mph in our little 1/8 mile. I know it matters but......I don't understand the exhaust stroke part either.
hopefully i can pick something up currently working on a i4 bike engine my timing is on the dot but she wont go into idle and only fires when you crack her over. any ideas?
When there's four degrees built into the came do you subtract that from the timing marks on the harmonic balancer or add when setting timing with the timing light.
You do nothing. Grinding a cam slightly advanced increases bottom end torque and more important, compensates for timing chain stretch (which retards the camshaft) which is why I presume cam manufacturers do this.
Im building a 351w. Lunati cam. The only thing on your video that threw me off was when you first started with the fealer gauge. You said your engine there was at #1 on Exhaust stroke?? When you install the cam with #1 TDC, dots lined up , if everything is right you should see the valve overlap at that point shouldn't you? Do you use the fealer gauge at that point or do you rotate the engine to exhaust stroke and then check? Is that what you mean? I'm a poor country boy and have never degreed a cam in any way. I want to try your way but want to be sure.
_"How do you fill an oil filter that mounts sideways without the oil spilling out when you install it?"_ a) You don't fill it all the way up and b) if you do it quickly, spillage will be at a minimum.
Put the filled filter in your freezer for an hour before install. And thanks alot to the idiot who designed cavalier filter mounts for making me have to figure this out.
What confused me compared to working on bikes is that when your dog to dot your not on the compression stroke at tdc, your at the overlap on the exhaust stroke. 0 on the ballsncer must be 180 out of the dot, because you can't set valves at tdc if your at that overlap period, must be on compression stroke. I have a video on this too.
Question for ya? I just installed double roller chain and its tight. the thing that's weird is if i rock crank very slighty back and forth i feel a tiny bit of play. it seems like there play between lower gear and chain. Is that normal? seems like less than a 1/8 movement. thanks
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
How do you know your at TDC without a degree wheel? That motor probably has 3 to 5 degrees of piston dwell. Go ahead and try to prove me wrong without using your "frisbee".
The simple fact that roller and flat tappet cams have different ramp rates pretty much makes your feeler gauge measurements meaningless. Never mind the fact that every single grind different than yours has a different ramp rate.
I once ordered a cam and found out the the wrong cam was in the box. The only way I knew is because I used a degree wheel, micrometer and the specs didn't match the cam card. You couldn't have found that with a feeler gauge.
If you truly felt so strongly about shitty quality control you wouldn't be using your degree wheel as a frisbee.
So, Mr. "Building/Racing Videos...with all your expertise building and racing, you don't know how to split dwell at TDC without using a wheel? Maybe you need to build and race some more??
Also, you are absolutely correct about different types of cams and different ramps, HOWEVER, that .006 equaling 2 degrees is a good enough "ballpark" to get you there with any cam.
If you have issues with this method, go buy yourself a freakin ouija board and get ahold of Keith Black, because this is the method he developed in order to make quick camshaft timing changes at the track. Actually, it was Mr. Black himself that told me how to do this when I bought a cam and gear drive from him back in the 1980's.
If you get through, give him my regards.
@@UncleTonysGarage 😂
And….. BURN !!!
@@UncleTonysGarage Tony, you're presuming this guy even knows who Keith Black was. Lol.
@@UncleTonysGarage thank you for teaching us kind sir
"I have a degree wheel right there, I use it as a Frisbee!" Lmao! Uncle Tony is the best! Love this engine build series!
That got me too🤣🤣
“Ahhrg I gotta figure out how to degree a cam.” Exactly how I felt! Thanks Uncle Tony.
Tony's method works to reveal cam timing, but if you want to establish that the cam in the box matches the card then you still need a degree wheel.
I don't even build engines, however Tony is very entertaining anyway. I do wrench on cars, but I won't call myself a "gearhead" until I build an engine.
Classic car culture leader Utg
Love it when a plan comes together UT. She's looking more and more like an engine instead of a giant puzzle, although at this point it still kinda is.
Bill Gliden and the Grump were totally different people with different methods. They were both professionals. Are we with comments as pro as uncle Tony. I have used this method a hundred times. It works! We as engineers need to continue to share knowledge of our research after experiments. Don't crash on our way to Mars together!!!!
I've never had it explained to me in such a brilliant way... genius! It really is the old guys that have great knowledge... Many thanks.. Love your work.. 👍
Yeah, hands on practical knowledge. No academic textbook in the world contains such information. This is serious problem with science (worldwide).
TONY, Similar method to mine. Use dial indicator to verify T.D.C. Align marks on t.c. gears and check lifter pair for height. Adjust or change out cam as necessary. Then rotate assembly 360 degrees and check marks and corresponding cylinder at T.D.C. and lifters for height. I generally do Ford stuff and recently source new cam and valvetrain parts that are 20-40 years old. I've seen others have bad cams and lifters, that are of recent production. Even aftermarket rocker arm ratios that aren't the same from the same box! B.T.W. I 've had a Crane H-302-NC Cam with Isky Hydraulic "Super-Lifters" (2-bleed holes) and Crane Swedish steel "Oteva" springs in my 1969 351W Mach 1 for over the past 50! years and still running strong. Thank you for your common-man, blue-collar advise and builds.
_"Use dial indicator to verify T.D.C."_
Yup, that's what I always did.
Uncle Tony is a highly underrated channel. Old school real world tech for the win!!
One of the many things I like about Uncle's videos is his explanations of things others miss. The TDC of cylinder 6, for example, in cam timing. Good stuff..
This is really awesome. I've done a handful of motors over the years....440, and 2 383's and used this method. My grandad showed me this in the early 1980's when I was 12-13. It needs to be close....and the rest is up to distributor and timing. Old school. Clearly there are many more technical way to do it, with lost of $200 bits and pieces....but this works 95% as good. Dot to Dot, and if its way off.....get another cam.
Thanks Tony . I'm liking these videos as you assemble the engine.
Ya know...if these "experts" know how to degre a cam...WHY would u watch this video...? I've never degred a cam the U.T.'s way...BUT...I wount knock it till I try it...!..! When u work on fuel cars even 4 a short wile...YOU can learn things that the "avarage" mechanic "cant"...!...! I workd in the field with a tride & true Drag racer...& he was a wealth of knowage...!.Thanks tony 4 the video...KEEP'M coming...!
Thank you for sharing your information, knowledge and methods with us.
yeah that's a great tech tip!
These are videos I'll surely rewatch more diligently when I've actually got an engine on a stand about ....right over there. (I tend to think of cars before engines, so actually doing a whole engine for myself is something I've yet to do.(Actually for my Volvo, I'd want to put in a more suitable engine, then give the one I have the attention that deserves and maybe find the car that needs it. :) )
Any LS good enough for a Corvette or Camaro is surely good enough for a Volvo!
This is the sage guru sacred motor knowledge we watch this channel for. (y)
Good on you uncle Tony bloody good video as usual
regarding the Loctite I would’ve thought and I was always under the impression the bolt on that top cam gear the big one was threaded in a way that it had a left-hand thread so considering the direction of rotation it was always going to be self tightening…….!!!
Or whatever maybe a right-hand thread but the direction of rotation would still make it self tightening
I’m surprised to hear that they come loose…..!!!??? Not discounting what you’re saying of course
And also great to hear you mention that a dry timing chain leads to stretching
and people at home would probably be wondering why or they have not picked up on that point
and I’m one of these people that changes my engine oil every 3000 km to much criticism by others
But my understanding is that if the timing chain is allowed to run dry from an initial assembly scenario or from a lack of oil changes ie sludge buildup
then that lack of lubrication which is also code for a lack of cooling……
lets the chain overheat in a pinpoint manner and as that metal gets too hot it also gets too soft and starts to stretch
Generally for a daily driver i find that often people still don’t seem to understand the benefit of frequent oil changes and clean oil at all times…..
All the best from Melbourne Australia I did see you on the channel explaining you’ve had Vegemite before and you don’t want any extra
no worries mate all the best….!!!
I could substitute that with a “king brown” of Melbourne bitter
but I also know from watching the channel you don’t drink either……!
(A king brown is a 750ml glass stubby - which is basically equivalent to 2 cans or tinnies)
Those cam bolts will come loose, I can confirm that without any doubt at all. Sucks when it happens to, sometimes you get lucky and hear it before it grinds a hole in the timing cover sometimes you don't know about it until it dies.
Another excellent educational video on engine timing, lunrication, cam and lifter thresholds. Again, UT should be teaching auto shop at a local community college or trade school. Seriously. 👍
Timing gear bolt! What Tony says about this is 100% true! You must use lock tight on these and make sure the washer is facing correctly! Had one work loose and thought it was a lifter not pumping up!
Part 3.. it's getting Serious now..
Keep Wrenching everyone
🤘👀🇺🇲
This method works, I've got a degree wheel and dial indicator too. Use those when I need to get an idea what an unknown cam is.
I can't wait to put my 383 back together after a fresh rebuild same cam and lifters new timing chain. Same crank, rods,lifters. It ran good before the tear down but I'm going to check it using your method. It's on solid flat tappet lifters so it should be easier to do than a hydraulic lifter because I don't ha e to worry about pushing down the lifter plunger.
Keep helping us good ole home builders I got one appreciate it and I'd trust you to build my engine anytime.
Excellent info for the back yard engine builder!Thank you !
I’m a Ford guy.. love Mopars too. Had a 351 Cleveland built in the eighties that’s to still running like a top today.
I gotta 72 Dodge D-100 Adventurer SE I bought off the original owner has a 400 BB that was replaced thing never ran right after. Me and previous owner decided instead of being a 2 barrel we wanted a 4 barrel more interceptor style build with retrofitted air and a custom ground cam and lock up capable 727. This new build has never ran right never held up to the old worn 400 we took out and watching your videos has gave me new direction on where to go with this thing really wanna enjoy this old truck again things got a hell of a story behind it and too many parts cannons fired at it . Think I have a good direction to start sniffing on this thing to get it right . Thank you for putting your knowledge out there
one thing I'd like to note here Tony is that I personally have encountered aftermarket timing sets that have the timing marks stamped 180 out from factory...this has happened to me 3 times now from a few regular parts stores, I can't recall every brand I encountered this on, but it did cause me confusion the first time around when obviously I went to start the car and found I had to rotate my distributor 180 to get back to running condition...Afterwards I made it a point to always check, and have found this repeatedly...and not a discrepancy on my part, I literally removed the old dot to dot, and replaced without rotating directly and the new marks were both vertical...so watch out!!!
You have to use a degree wheel!...mmm how bout not?...btw the 383 B motor is perfect. I almost want to say its better than the hemi.
Excellent, thank you Tony.
I forgot the loctite on a Ford cam once. Gear fell off, cam slid back, and it cracked half the roller lifters when the next cam lobe slammed into them. Didn't know that for a couple years until I changed the cam. Pulled it out and found deep grooves plowed into it, the rollers badly galled, and thats when i found the cracks in the lifters at the axle for the roller. Lesson learned, don't forget the loctite on the cam bolt.
With a side of bacon infused salad
I've use a similar method "valve rock" to time the distributor basically rock six therfore no1 is top dead on fire. Helpful when someone has pulled a distributor then smoked a fatty. Just pull valve cover valves don't lie. Drank a lot of free beer knowing this over the years.
i like the explanation, I should be able to cross check all 8 cylinders 2 at a time or is that just overkill? Pat over at Powernation just threw his pocket protector on the ground in disgust!!
Thank you again Dr. Uncle Tony.
Tony, in that video you didn't show us how to verify that the piston 1 is at TDC. In the degree wheel method, that is the first thing to find. Why?
It's good to Know how to do this incase you're somewhere without you precision dial gauge & the job needs to get done.....Have not done it this way but it's cool.....
Excellent video! Thanks Tony!
Still nada on a degreed cam gear. Any way my 383 me using a Mopar Performance street rod cam that has to be center lined. I do have the off set cam bushings. Sorry I still use the dial indicator to make sure piston is at it's highest point, right at cross over.
When would you slant cam timing adv/ret from recommended?
What can you expect in power?
Say you want more grunt, would advancing give low end and mpg?
Not sure about mpg but it'll shift the power curve.
I had one advanced 1 tooth on a 4cyl and it pulled like a bear to 3500 🤣
Tom, there is plenty of information available in cam manufacturers' catalogs and their web site as well as in SA Design books on this subject.
Hey Tony, just a curious question, Why go with a factory timing chain instead of a Double Roller. Great tech tips as always..
Loctite in blind holes, such as pinion gear bolt holes and camshaft bolt holes, should have the Loctite applied inside the bolt holes and not just on the bolt threads. This is because the air pressure caused by threading the bolt into the hole can force the Loctite on the bolt threads out towards the bolt head and the rest of the bolt threads would end up without with Loctite remaining on them. Standard Blue Loctite 242 is very oil sensitive and calls for using Loctite Primer. Blue Loctite 243 is oil tolerant and doesn't require Loctite Primer, but it is not always easy to find.
Does this work well with hydraulic roller cams? I've seen this, but not explained like this. Good stuff.
How much variation in overall length of the lifters have you seen over the years? If one is .006 longer then the other, that shows up as 2 degrees.
speaking of loctite, how about a quick lesson on the different types/strengths for different applications?
Tony,do you secure the oil pickup? (strap/screw/tack braze/etc)
Honest. I’m a little too OCD with my lifters. Even on a Hydraulic Roller Cam, I typically use the retro-fit cross-bar roller lifters, and I use my electric etcher tool to engrave the cross-bar with a small number corresponding to the cylinder number. Never had a problem breaking cross-bars, and never had problems wiping lobes. It’s not entirely “necessary” on a roller cam, but it works so Imma keep doing it.
Additional. Same dealio with everything from Conrods to Pistons to Rocker Arms. In fact, every Rocker Arm has I-1, E-1, I-2, E-2, I-3, E-3, etc. for Intake and Exhaust. Everything always goes back together flawlessly.
I fixed a crack rebuilt a motor thanks Tony.
Tony do you ever experience cam walk with the big block mopars, I have pulled down a few slants that have had bolts fitted to the timing covers to limit movement, and worked on a solid lifter 454 chev that had a button even though it was flat tappet...Is this aftermarket cam grind insurance do you think.
Hi Tony, love most of your videos bit hard to concentrait with the grand kids ox,anyway do you have or doing a vid installing gear drive, and what its used for(best application)small block prefered?,this series is on hemi bb, do u have a full build guide like this for 318/360 ? last question do you think with a 360 would it be better to bore out a 318 to 4" and use a stroker kit in that or not? i havent had time sadly to build any engines since mid 90s raised now on our 14 children.lol im also in soth australia luckily i have a 318 cl 1977 charger, a chrysler by chrysler 360 1972,and my srt8 300 392 2012, still rather old school.any help from you or other viewers would be great, love ya mate keep up the awesome very detailed videos.God bless you n the helpers.ox
I daily drive a 1972 dodge truck with 318. It has just passed a hundred grand. When should I replace my timing gears and chain. I'm 52 and want to drive my truck for the rest of my life. So I'm into all aspects of what I can do to keep it happy. Regular oil changes ECT.
I would consider doing that soon. I had a 75 dodge pickup with 118k miles. The timing set was worn out. More of a problem is the nylon teeth will get brittle with age and can break instantly.
I know of 318 engines going well past 150k miles on their original timing set. But that was 40 years ago. I’ve been told that older dodge pickup engines had all metal timing sets. I don’t think that’s true.
My opinion is buy the very best replacement parts you can.
My 79 w150 had the nylon gear and it jump a few teeth with 107,000 on the clock
nice beginners guide to timing...
Just curious Tony, using those lifters and lobes would they have different face wear using it in this block now? Like slight different lifter bore position to the cam nose from one engine to another engine. I say that cos the nose of the camshaft might sit and wear in a different position on the lifter face in this engine maybe increasing face wear even if its the matching lifter you just want to be sure thanks
Should you measure the lifters to make sure they are all identical length before using them in the feeler gauge process?
Hi, Uncle Tony! Thank you for the information. Have you done a video on the crate motors from the ‘90s? I have a 360/380 magnum that my dad bought from Summit for his 340 Duster and it’s difficult to find mechanics that know anything about it. It has an aggressive cam and high compression. An example would be one of the mechanics telling me it shouldn’t have anything more than a 600cfm carb, but summit recommended a 750cfm. I had another guy who adjusted the timing and it was so weak when I got it back. Would love for you to do a deep dive on these or tips on how to set it up properly! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Excellent explanation. However yiu said no 1 cylinder at the exhaust stroke. When the gears are dot to dot isn’t the piston on the power stroke?
No. TDC end of exhaust stroke. It's set up that way so you can degree the cam from that position. Your assumption is a common on and that's why many first time engine assemblers put the distributor in 180 out of phase. Yeah.... I've done it too. 😜
Hey I was just watching your dual-quad video again do you prefer vacuum secondaries or manual
Hey Uncle Tony is your eye ok?
Uncle Tony, Wouldn't the convex surface of the bottom of the lifters prohibit getting the straight edge to touch all four edges? Sincerely asking. Perhaps flipping them over and using the top side of the lifter to check with a straight edge..? 🤔
Great idea about checking the cam for twist. I'd never woulda thunk that!
thank you for sharing my friend great 👍 video
I've mostly delt with chevys can't lie I love them but, one of the first great engines I heltlped build was a 360 un my buddy's 360 in his 64 dart. I absolutely love the filter placement in the Mopar. Back in 04 our senior year that 400 hp 360 dart was the second fastest car at school. My boys mid 90s supra was faster. When we beat the*rich kid's) built 2003 wrx Subaru I was so ecstatic. Sadly I wasn't driving that day and the day after we had to rebuild the garbage morpar transmission for the 3rd time. He'll a win is a win. Keep up the great stuff unkl t
This I understand. I never got the degree wheel thing.
Lol. It's not hard at all to "get." Read a cam manufacturer's catalog, the info is there regarding degreeing a camshaft. It's not rocket science.
Thanks Tio much appreciated
What type of thin oil yuh used for the chain
So, I've never built and engine but plan to build a small block in the near future. Trying to absorb as much knowledge about everything as I can. My question is, what do you do if I'm the measurement is off? What adjustment needs to be made? Or are you basically just verified the cam was machine correctly and if the measurements are off do you need to send it back and grab a new one?
HOWdy U-T-G,
Indexing a CAM & checking for inconsistencies in Timing Gears etc Etc ETC
COOP
...
the old ford small bocks were bad about the cam bolt coming loose. can`t tell how many fuel pumps i saw replaced because of this.
Good morning. On carburetor I saw you put vacuum hose on meter block . I can do same thing on new quick fuel 680 cfm ??
So much importants details!
Mr.uncle,,what price do you have on slant motor put evrething back inthere,,with a new hot cam,,???Thanks for your time
The exhaust valve is supposed to open when the piston is 90 degrees past tdc on the power stroke.
Is top dead center on the compression stroke split overlap? With chevy engines I always line the marks up on TDC on the compression stroke.
I was a little bit confused at first too. Learned something new today. Didn’t know the timing marks line up on overlap. I guess another 360 degrees of rotation will bring you up to compression/fire on the harmonic damper
AWESOME info UT...MOPAR 4 EVER.
Those things use ford filters right ?
Should get a big ol wix 51773 😁
PH8A Fram. Never had any problems with 'em.
1995 gmc c1500 piston is at top dead center where should the rotor button be pointing at
what kind of cam dressing are you using ,? not a big fan of the ranch ,how about some vinegar n oil ?!cider ? vinigrete?or white?
Italian. Lol.
a 2nd batt flag, was someone in regiment in the garage?
I am confused. I always though that it would be top dead center on Compression stroke (obviously) with both valves closed and dots facing each other
The Chevy 350 is also like this Mopar shown here . I heard it can vary depending on what engine it is .
I'm confused too. I guess I've just been real lucky. I've built 8 or 10 engines for myself and friends over the last 30 years. Chevy sb, ford sb and even one 318. I have never once used a degree wheel. One of my 350s ran 7.91 @ 98mph in our little 1/8 mile. I know it matters but......I don't understand the exhaust stroke part either.
hopefully i can pick something up currently working on a i4 bike engine my timing is on the dot but she wont go into idle and only fires when you crack her over.
any ideas?
Old School.
When there's four degrees built into the came do you subtract that from the timing marks on the harmonic balancer or add when setting timing with the timing light.
You do nothing. Grinding a cam slightly advanced increases bottom end torque and more important, compensates for timing chain stretch (which retards the camshaft) which is why I presume cam manufacturers do this.
What is considered a special tool?
Good tech session
With Uncle Tony there is more than one way to skin a cat. Just shows he knowledge inside and out of an engine.
Just out of curiosity what brand is that cam timing gear?
Im building a 351w. Lunati cam. The only thing on your video that threw me off was when you first started with the fealer gauge. You said your engine there was at #1 on Exhaust stroke?? When you install the cam with #1 TDC, dots lined up , if everything is right you should see the valve overlap at that point shouldn't you? Do you use the fealer gauge at that point or do you rotate the engine to exhaust stroke and then check? Is that what you mean? I'm a poor country boy and have never degreed a cam in any way. I want to try your way but want to be sure.
Great info tony!
Tony, do you prefer to write on the oil filter to remind you to fill it before start-up? Just sayin, how do you recall?
You're joking, right? How absurd.
Maybe absurd for you. I would always try to err on the side of caution. That's just me. Sorry for the suggestion.
So you did not show your assembly of rear main seal which is very important and what I was waiting for
How do you fill an oil filter that mounts sideways without the oil spilling out when you install it?
You can't
Simple, just turn the engine so it's pointing up and screw it in. 😂
_"How do you fill an oil filter that mounts sideways without the oil spilling out when you install it?"_
a) You don't fill it all the way up and b) if you do it quickly, spillage will be at a minimum.
Put the filled filter in your freezer for an hour before install. And thanks alot to the idiot who designed cavalier filter mounts for making me have to figure this out.
Thanks UT :)
9:30 is there any chance of me sending you a video of an engine knock 350ci chevy it's blowing my mind. Regards
I love your videos. Thank you
What confused me compared to working on bikes is that when your dog to dot your not on the compression stroke at tdc, your at the overlap on the exhaust stroke. 0 on the ballsncer must be 180 out of the dot, because you can't set valves at tdc if your at that overlap period, must be on compression stroke. I have a video on this too.
Question for ya? I just installed double roller chain and its tight. the thing that's weird is if i rock crank very slighty back and forth i feel a tiny bit of play. it seems like there play between lower gear and chain. Is that normal? seems like less than a 1/8 movement. thanks
So....what if it is off a few degrees....do you jump a tooth on purpose?
Using 2 dial gauges to check #1 both Lobes for Actual Lsa would be cool.....
I just realized I have been dying to see a big block on this channel.
Wow thank you
Let's have some fun 😉 😜