I have some old repair manuals, I also have a book titled how to rebuild the small block ford. Has all the specs in it. Search it on google. Great book for beginners
I have attempted this myself. y issue was a cracked block. I have a fresh block bored over .30. I installed cam and them installed crank. I used the Main caps that came with the block. I could turn the crank at all no matted what I did. I loosened all of them and hand tightened just one and would turn. I used the main caps that were in the block that is cracked that the crank was in and it turns great. I plastigaged it and it comes out fine. I miked the inside bore with just the main caps from cracked block and all was right. I miked the caps side by side and all was the same. I have the correct measurements, the crank mikes out exactly like the book says it should. Do you think I should just "go" with it? I am not racing anything. I donthave any other options. haha
chris Byers thats very strange. . . crank should swap over just fine. are you switching the bearings across? undersized bearings wouldnt work on a standard crank. i know that would be extremely stupid, but thats all i can think of. . . there has to be something going on there. . .
ThunderHead289 Yea I have replaced all of the bearings with Standard bearings. The bearings I pulled out of the old block still had the ford emblem on them so they were not undersized. They still look new. The block was cracked due to cold. Everything in that motor looks factory new. I didnt switch the old bearings over though. I installed new ones. Should I switch them over in your opinion?
check the back of the new ones you have and measure them against the old ones. make sure they are not way thicker. that is about the only thing that could cause it. cranks are all nominal as are blocks i believe. though i have never compared a sixties block to an 80s block.
Thunder what would be the process needed to convert my 89 302 from EFI to a carb. I know that I need a manifold and carb, a fuel pump conversion, and a new distributer, but I feel like there are other things.
Snake Jake you can save on the pump conversion by running a carb electric pump and hook it to the return fuel feed line and just leave the old pump in tank and cap the other lines. you will need a vented gas cap for this or a small hole drilled in the gas cap will do. the main difference will be for the transmission. if its an aod, you will need the lokar aod kickdown linkage for the carb to tranny. there are very detained instructions on how to do this if you search, and im sure lokar will give you the run down. there are ports on the head you can cap but if you keep the emissions stuff, this would be fine. are you keeping it in the vehicle? if so, this alleviates a lot of the swap agony.
I have pulled the engine and am in the process of a complete disassembly and cleanings. Watched your videos on the budget rebuild and will be doing the same. Was thinking about getting one of those summit racing manifold and carb kits. What are your thoughts on that?
dont get the summit manifold or cam! i like the summit carb and the edelbrock manifolds are made good and thick. i prefer comps line up of cams. with engine componants, your really do get what you pay for. trust me, parts have failed on me other ways. for example my weiand intake manifold video vs edelbrock. damn.
Where did you find your motor? I've tried searching junkyards and some sites but I can't find a decent 302 for the right price, any suggestions? Just looking for a garage fixer upper.
Seeing you had done several mock-up assembly steps,and also mentioned that you had taken some earlier end play measurements, I thought it strange you would torque the rear capall the wayto 70ft lbs before at least having the middle or other end also at least at an initial torque of say 40 ft lbs. Also, cleaning the pan gasket remains out of the rear main cap after it was reinstalled seemed out of order too. order of the lower caps should be marked , cleaned, and kept in order during reinstall,just to be sure.
They are all independent. It doesn't matter how you torque them. If they play off of each other then you would have no clearance and have larger issues. There is nothing out of order here my friend. And whatever you feel has been left out in prep/post work, I guarantee its in another video in the series.
I took my previous comments off because they made me sound stupid. But I have a new question for you because you seem to be knowledgeable. The thrust bearing went out on my fully machined and rebuilt 302 with 12,000 miles. Not sure why but it did. I removed the engine. Removed the main caps. Removed bearings. Removed rod caps and bearings. Covered my ARP rod bolts with rubber tubing and removed my crank. I pushed the pisons all the way down and the crank easily came out. The newly ground and polished crank is still perfect. I intend to wipe down the inside of the block the best I can to clean any debris. Then re-install all new Clevite main and rod bearings. Put everything back together and run it. 1. What should I use to clean the inside of the block? Mind you the cam, heads even the intake are still installed. 2. Do you see anything wrong with what I am doing? Thanks for any advice. I never cut corners in anything I do and this engine only has 12,000 miles on it and looks brand new inside. So I really don't see the need to disassemble everything and send it to a machine shop again.
ThunderHead289 Absolutely none. never saw debris in the oil. Had absolutely no idea anything was even wrong. I found excessive crankshaft end play by pure luck installing a new timing set. The crank thrust face is absolutely mirror shine.
+Jeremiah Madsen I don't think you should worry about cleaning it if you can't see anything. Likely to do more damage than good. I know we have had this convo before, but you used a feeler gauge on this correct? It should be .004 or something like that (if have to look at the numbers though I'm sure it's in the vid)
ThunderHead289 Yes sir we did have this convo before and I was considering just rolling the thrust bearing out but I ended up pulling the engine. It was just easier because I could not get the friken pan outta the way. Yes I measured the gap with a feeler gauge and it was 0.025". I ask about cleaning because you know the internet builders if you have 1 piece of lint in the engine the entire thing will grenade. Or if you didn't build it in a hermetically sealed room she's gonna blow. I pay engine builders to build my engines and I do everything else so this is the first time I am doing anything with the bearings. I have the crank cleaned. I am going to plastigauge all bearings and if in spec, install.
am enjoying your videos , i have 5.0 engine i am going to remove from a shell i am going to sell and just take the engine apart and rebuild it on my own so i can learn..eventually will drop it in my other mustang with an stock 5.0.. i had a question , i was told that and bolts that touch the block or heads have to bebrand new when you replace them ?? is that true?
Your videos are great, thank you!
Thank you, glad they could be of good use to someone!
Hello, great video and a lot of help, just curious where to get the clearance specification sheet for the main and rods that shows within spec. Thanks
I have some old repair manuals, I also have a book titled how to rebuild the small block ford. Has all the specs in it. Search it on google. Great book for beginners
Thank you
Did you use a synthetic grease on those bearings or did you use assembly lube? Looked pretty thick so I'm not sure.
Outstanding!!! I have nothing to add
I have attempted this myself. y issue was a cracked block. I have a fresh block bored over .30. I installed cam and them installed crank. I used the Main caps that came with the block. I could turn the crank at all no matted what I did. I loosened all of them and hand tightened just one and would turn. I used the main caps that were in the block that is cracked that the crank was in and it turns great. I plastigaged it and it comes out fine. I miked the inside bore with just the main caps from cracked block and all was right. I miked the caps side by side and all was the same. I have the correct measurements, the crank mikes out exactly like the book says it should. Do you think I should just "go" with it? I am not racing anything. I donthave any other options. haha
chris Byers thats very strange. . . crank should swap over just fine. are you switching the bearings across? undersized bearings wouldnt work on a standard crank. i know that would be extremely stupid, but thats all i can think of. . . there has to be something going on there. . .
ThunderHead289 Yea I have replaced all of the bearings with Standard bearings. The bearings I pulled out of the old block still had the ford emblem on them so they were not undersized. They still look new. The block was cracked due to cold. Everything in that motor looks factory new. I didnt switch the old bearings over though. I installed new ones. Should I switch them over in your opinion?
check the back of the new ones you have and measure them against the old ones. make sure they are not way thicker. that is about the only thing that could cause it. cranks are all nominal as are blocks i believe. though i have never compared a sixties block to an 80s block.
you didn't mention pattern what pattern do you use?
Thunder what would be the process needed to convert my 89 302 from EFI to a carb. I know that I need a manifold and carb, a fuel pump conversion, and a new distributer, but I feel like there are other things.
Snake Jake you can save on the pump conversion by running a carb electric pump and hook it to the return fuel feed line and just leave the old pump in tank and cap the other lines. you will need a vented gas cap for this or a small hole drilled in the gas cap will do.
the main difference will be for the transmission. if its an aod, you will need the lokar aod kickdown linkage for the carb to tranny. there are very detained instructions on how to do this if you search, and im sure lokar will give you the run down.
there are ports on the head you can cap but if you keep the emissions stuff, this would be fine.
are you keeping it in the vehicle? if so, this alleviates a lot of the swap agony.
I have pulled the engine and am in the process of a complete disassembly and cleanings. Watched your videos on the budget rebuild and will be doing the same. Was thinking about getting one of those summit racing manifold and carb kits. What are your thoughts on that?
dont get the summit manifold or cam! i like the summit carb and the edelbrock manifolds are made good and thick. i prefer comps line up of cams. with engine componants, your really do get what you pay for. trust me, parts have failed on me other ways. for example my weiand intake manifold video vs edelbrock. damn.
i do recommend the summit carb. 600 vac secondary has a big two thumbs way up!
+Snake Jake what car is your 89 5.0 from?
Where did you find your motor? I've tried searching junkyards and some sites but I can't find a decent 302 for the right price, any suggestions? Just looking for a garage fixer upper.
I usually buy everything I own off of Craigslist
Would .0010 be too tight? For a 289
Seeing you had done several mock-up assembly steps,and also mentioned that you had taken some earlier end play measurements, I thought it strange you would torque the rear capall the wayto 70ft lbs before at least having the middle or other end also at least at an initial torque of say 40 ft lbs. Also, cleaning the pan gasket remains out of the rear main cap after it was reinstalled seemed out of order too. order of the lower caps should be marked , cleaned, and kept in order during reinstall,just to be sure.
They are all independent. It doesn't matter how you torque them. If they play off of each other then you would have no clearance and have larger issues. There is nothing out of order here my friend. And whatever you feel has been left out in prep/post work, I guarantee its in another video in the series.
Great video!
I took my previous comments off because they made me sound stupid. But I have a new question for you because you seem to be knowledgeable. The thrust bearing went out on my fully machined and rebuilt 302 with 12,000 miles. Not sure why but it did. I removed the engine. Removed the main caps. Removed bearings. Removed rod caps and bearings. Covered my ARP rod bolts with rubber tubing and removed my crank. I pushed the pisons all the way down and the crank easily came out. The newly ground and polished crank is still perfect. I intend to wipe down the inside of the block the best I can to clean any debris. Then re-install all new Clevite main and rod bearings. Put everything back together and run it. 1. What should I use to clean the inside of the block? Mind you the cam, heads even the intake are still installed. 2. Do you see anything wrong with what I am doing? Thanks for any advice. I never cut corners in anything I do and this engine only has 12,000 miles on it and looks brand new inside. So I really don't see the need to disassemble everything and send it to a machine shop again.
well, let me ask you this - is there a ton of particles from the thrust bearing inside?
ThunderHead289 Absolutely none. never saw debris in the oil. Had absolutely no idea anything was even wrong. I found excessive crankshaft end play by pure luck installing a new timing set. The crank thrust face is absolutely mirror shine.
+Jeremiah Madsen I don't think you should worry about cleaning it if you can't see anything. Likely to do more damage than good. I know we have had this convo before, but you used a feeler gauge on this correct? It should be .004 or something like that (if have to look at the numbers though I'm sure it's in the vid)
ThunderHead289 Measured 0.025" endplay.
ThunderHead289 Yes sir we did have this convo before and I was considering just rolling the thrust bearing out but I ended up pulling the engine. It was just easier because I could not get the friken pan outta the way. Yes I measured the gap with a feeler gauge and it was 0.025". I ask about cleaning because you know the internet builders if you have 1 piece of lint in the engine the entire thing will grenade. Or if you didn't build it in a hermetically sealed room she's gonna blow. I pay engine builders to build my engines and I do everything else so this is the first time I am doing anything with the bearings. I have the crank cleaned. I am going to plastigauge all bearings and if in spec, install.
am enjoying your videos ,
i have 5.0 engine i am going to remove from a shell i am going to sell and just take the engine apart and rebuild it on my own so i can learn..eventually will drop it in my other mustang with an stock 5.0..
i had a question , i was told that and bolts that touch the block or heads have to bebrand new when you replace them ??
is that true?
6moneymaker2 not with these 302s. but definitely modern engines. Glad these are helping!
id rather have too much as opposed to not enough. too much cant adversely effect anything - well unless its just globs and globs.
Awesome videos. What did you use to lube the seal? Just oil or grease or what?
+Charles Fowler without looking at the video, I’m sure I put some assembly lube on the rear main seal surface, as well as all the bearings
thanks.....good chit !
I hate wonder wands.