You do beautiful work TH. I mean it too. You take your time, and you're a great instructor. Thank you so much. I'm so glad I found your channel. Over the years I've worked on my own cars out of necessity and the satisfaction of working on it myself. Over the years I've also lost interest. Watching your channel has re inspired me to get back into working on the old iron. Thanks again!
Centering that timing cover seal by putting on the Harmonic Balancer is a PITA. I bought a crankshaft rotating tool years ago that had the same OD as the Balancer. I didn't even realize it when I bought it and the packaging didn't make a reference to it. All that I had to do was to slip it on the crank snout and center the cover. Sure made life easier, especially with the engine in the car/truck. I'd give you the name and part number of the manufacturer, but there's not a damned thing written on it. I sure appreciate your videos, I've been turning wrenches on Fords for years and it's always a good idea to see what other guys have to offer. You never know what you can pick up. If I learned something new every day, that day would be worth living.
TH, thank you for taking the time to make these very well edited, informational videos. You know a lot and could have just as easily not taken your time to share. Anyone who has ever tried to make a video explaining a project, knows that it is a different animal altogether. I am rebuilding a 351w and you have spared me a ton of headaches. So, thank you for all the swearing I have not had to do. Dan
hey, its great to hear that my time and efforts were worth while to somebody. the torque specs between the 302 and 351 will be different as the bolts used are larger in some areas, but everything else is quite the same. if you have any questions, feel free to ask away.
ThunderHead289 TH, just one quick question..can you suggest a place to buy a complete gasket set? I have a 1993 351w from a f250. I have been looking but don't want to buy something too cheap. can you tell me the process you do for getting all your gaskets? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you, Dan
+newday89 a lot of times I just purchase a fel pro gasket set from the parts store - then depending on the build I'll add in a once piece pan gasket and rubber valve cover gaskets, sometimes I'll add in some performance head gaskets.
I like your 302 videos as I am doing this same job and I have never worked on Fords. A couple comments fwiw: I think you can use a 1/2" dr. crowsfoot wrench with your torque wrench to get to and properly torque the hard to access timing cover bolts. Also, a trick I have learned to assemble some stuff like the timing chain assembly is to heat the assembly in an oven for a half hour to say 200 degrees F and they will slide on the relatively cool shafts a whole lot easier. Of course this necessitates wearing a good leather glove with wrist gauntlets for protection and like you do, work quickly. You are one of the few mechanics, at least of the ones I have seen here that I would allow to work on my machines. Thanks.
Great video on my second watch, too! I am doing this job as part of a cyl head gasket r&r and commend you on your thourogh verbal comentary while simultaneously working including emphasizing the import of integrating the whole process of balancer, cover and pump assembly. tomorrrow I triumph! cheers, md
Thank You. Workin on 89 ramcharger w 318, your instructions very clear and helpful. i have several brackets that attatch to timming cover during/prior to reassembly. seems i may need an assistant. this video gives me more confidence.
Great information as always yet in the future if you do another like this maybe mention about the difference between the inner and outer race for the gears. Newbies may not know this! Severe wear and premature failure could be caused by putting them in wrong. Have A Great Day! Hope you two like the new place! Daryl
Super video! One of the best I have seen! I like your methodical approach. Thanks much. I have a 1969 351W to do, I notice I dont have a dowel pin but will use you approach with the harmonic balancer to align.
Hey. I really appreciate your videos and am using them to upgrade my ‘73 Ford 302. Based on timing chain slack and mileage I installed a new Edelbrock timing chain set. All went well and I followed your instructions for gasket installment. Got it all back together and went to fire it up. No fuel from the upgraded Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. So I immediately suspected the fuel pump eccentric? Bad decision! I should have started at the fuel pump because I had the in and out lines crossed. But tomorrow I am going to put on the third timing chain gasket set and correctly install the new fuel pump. So going back to review for tomorrow. I eliminated the oil slinger per Edelbrock instructions. I have an inner fuel pump eccentric with retaining tab and pin on my camshaft. I have an outer free spinning sleeve which engages my fuel pump lever arm? I noted u have the eccentric, but not the outer free spinning sleeve. What’s the difference? I don’t want to do this again for the 4th time? Help, please explain.
my timing chain went on with absolutely no play- this chain had a large amount of movement?? when 1st going on it was slightly cocked, and there was similar play to yours but further working the crank sprocket it tightened up completely my timing set soaked in oil before installation
I have dumb question. What's the timing cover seal supposed to look like once the harmonic balancer is in? Is it flushed flat to the shaft or is the rubber bent inwards?
I was taking apart my 1969 sbf 302 and got to the timing chain then I was astonished to find the timing chain bottom was steel and the gear that goes on the camshaft was part plastic is this how fords were put together back then? I just couldn't believe my eyes all the mopar's and Chevys I've done were all steel this is my first 302 which I'm making into a 331 for someone to put in a truck or car looking for 500 hp 500tq might spray or build for boost
Well that makes me wonder if this motor has been rebuilt before but why put a plastic part of the chain I know people are cheap but damn,they did put 289 heads on it assuming they wanted more compression.just hope they didn't bore it out already now I need to go check it.
+Silvershark it is quite possible it has been bored. they did it in the 80s to try and quite engine noise. it was stupid. sounds like its been played with a few times for sure
I have a 88 gt 5.0 just changed the chain was very loose over 15 degree's of play. While doing this I noticed the distributor gear was badly worn what could cause this ??? I replaced it with a standard, gear the gear is pressed on the shaft .the new gear only has one hole for dowl pin instructions say to drill hole out with 1/8 inch drill bit.but no mater what I couldn't drill the new gear way to hard of metal. Ended up just driving pin in as far as it would go and filed it down a Whisker just to be certain it wouldn't hit cam gear ..have you ever replaced a distributor gear like this that you have to drill ????
Thank you for your video, currently on this step in my rebuild. Isn't there an indented washer that needs to go between the crank gear and the timing cover?
im working on a 302 as well but stuck on the harmonic balancer, im not to sure how far it goes in. i have an balancer installer tool it def works but i notice thiers a half inch cap between the seal and the balancer. is that correct?
I bought one of those C-3057K Cheapie $25 double roller chains from Cloyes. 600 miles it had stretched 4* of timing. Put a Cloyes Original true roller timing set on it and it's tight as a drum. I'm still not sure what the big difference is from the Original True Roller and the Street True Roller, I got the original anyways. I had a beef of a time getting the timing set on the chain was so tight.
I am in the process of building a donor motor for my 85 GT, when it comes to timing gears I would like to go with a gear drive ( I like the sound) what are your thought with the gear drive performance??
I'd stay away from them if I were you or be around one for awhile. They are expensive and you will be sick of that wine after 1 day. Iv had one before. That was my personal opinion on it at least
6moneymaker2 there should be what appear to be two empty holes. these are where on this timing cover the water pump backing plate is bolted to the water pump from the backside. everything you see has bolts in it i promise you. there are actually no holes through the timing cover itself on this engine in that location. i believe the old mechanical pump cover has the holes for going through all of these items, but not the later 80s engines.
when I install my harmonic balancer on my 95 GT the engine stops turning. new timing chain but oem timing cover and stock balancer. some say it's hitting the cover but there is no visible signs of that. any common problems like this?
the timing chain should not even be close to the cover if it is tightened all the way down and properly seated. if your timing chain is installed correctly ie - the cam plate installed with the timing chain facing the right direction and the dots lining up, you should have no issues.
It's not the timing chain. It's the harmonic balancer. When I torque it down to line up the pulley. When I get close and try to crank the engine over it will not. But when I back the balancer off it will turn again.
i mentioned the timing chain because if the top pulley is not installed correctly, the bottom gear will not be aligned properly and sit farther out. when the harmonic ballancer is tightened down, it will push against this gear and put the chain in a bind, thus stopping the engines rotation. there is nothing on the ballancer alone that could possibly stop the engine to my knowledge, but a timing chain sure could.
+Randall Ruel i used grade 5. grade 8s are too strong and do not get proper thread stretch. just be sure you are using grade 5 and not the crap unmarked bolts.
ThunderHead289 there is a time and place for grade 8 bolts. And a timing cover is not one of them. I like the grade 8's on suspensions. But not on the engine.
Well I did this whole engine for 650 bucks intake to pan versus about 1500 to 1800 you would pay for a stock long block. I personally buy short blocks because I don't have the time and thy is the most tedious work. - btw, many warranties on engines are not honored unless you take it in to be installed by certified mechanics - so that warranty stuff is crap. I used to be a mechanic before I went back to school and became an engineer.
It's nice but not all of us can afford to rebuild ourselves. trust me, if i could have done a whole 5.0 dream motor i would have done it myself in my dream garage. you did a great job though! i am a bit jealous.
+Charles Garcia dream motor? This one in particular was only 650 bucks. Very affordable to overhaul style rebuild I think I have yet to build a dream engine, is be too afraid to use it if I did !!!
Been hearing this for years, but the actual definition of "motor" may surprise you. Look it up in a couple dictionaries, as well as a college physics book. A gas "engine" is a "motor" and it is not incorrect to refer to a gas engine by either term. Generally when we say engine we mean combustion or thermal conversion, but even engine can be loosely used if you look at the alternate meanings.
@ThunderHead289 I am replacing front seal on 76 ford bronco, felpro front oil seal looks different than yours. www.cjponyparts.com/fel-pro-timing-chain-cover-gasket-set-v8-1965-1978/p/TCG1/ Mine does not have the metal flange i see on yours.
Followed your recommendations last engine build. 2 years and no leaks/issues. So I'm back because I'm gonna build another engine.
You do beautiful work TH. I mean it too. You take your time, and you're a great instructor. Thank you so much.
I'm so glad I found your channel. Over the years I've worked on my own cars out of necessity and the satisfaction of working on it myself. Over the years I've also lost interest. Watching your channel has re inspired me to get back into working on the old iron. Thanks again!
Thanks so much for the kind words, comments like yours are why I keep doing this!
This series is what talked me into building my own 302 for my 60 F100. Great explanations for everything!
Centering that timing cover seal by putting on the Harmonic Balancer is a PITA. I bought a crankshaft rotating tool years ago that had the same OD as the Balancer. I didn't even realize it when I bought it and the packaging didn't make a reference to it. All that I had to do was to slip it on the crank snout and center the cover. Sure made life easier, especially with the engine in the car/truck. I'd give you the name and part number of the manufacturer, but there's not a damned thing written on it.
I sure appreciate your videos, I've been turning wrenches on Fords for years and it's always a good idea to see what other guys have to offer. You never know what you can pick up. If I learned something new every day, that day would be worth living.
Couldn’t agree more - this is a really old video! Pretty nostalgic for me to watch!
TH, thank you for taking the time to make these very well edited, informational videos. You know a lot and could have just as easily not taken your time to share. Anyone who has ever tried to make a video explaining a project, knows that it is a different animal altogether. I am rebuilding a 351w and you have spared me a ton of headaches. So, thank you for all the swearing I have not had to do. Dan
hey, its great to hear that my time and efforts were worth while to somebody.
the torque specs between the 302 and 351 will be different as the bolts used are larger in some areas, but everything else is quite the same. if you have any questions, feel free to ask away.
ThunderHead289
TH, just one quick question..can you suggest a place to buy a complete gasket set? I have a 1993 351w from a f250. I have been looking but don't want to buy something too cheap. can you tell me the process you do for getting all your gaskets? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you, Dan
+newday89 a lot of times I just purchase a fel pro gasket set from the parts store - then depending on the build I'll add in a once piece pan gasket and rubber valve cover gaskets, sometimes I'll add in some performance head gaskets.
Thank you
I like your 302 videos as I am doing this same job and I have never worked on Fords. A couple comments fwiw: I think you can use a 1/2" dr. crowsfoot wrench with your torque wrench to get to and properly torque the hard to access timing cover bolts. Also, a trick I have learned to assemble some stuff like the timing chain assembly is to heat the assembly in an oven for a half hour to say 200 degrees F and they will slide on the relatively cool shafts a whole lot easier. Of course this necessitates wearing a good leather glove with wrist gauntlets for protection and like you do, work quickly. You are one of the few mechanics, at least of the ones I have seen here that I would allow to work on my machines. Thanks.
+Mark Dierking thanks, i really appreciate the comment! good insight on torque and timing chain install.
Great video on my second watch, too! I am doing this job as part of a cyl head gasket r&r and commend you on your thourogh verbal comentary while simultaneously working including emphasizing the import of integrating the whole process of balancer, cover and pump assembly. tomorrrow I triumph! cheers, md
+Mark Dierking great to hear the video was of good help! i specifically made this series to clear up all the trouble and to put good info out there.
Thank You. Workin on 89 ramcharger w 318, your instructions very clear and helpful. i have several brackets that attatch to timming cover during/prior to reassembly. seems i may need an assistant. this video gives me more confidence.
Great information as always yet in the future if you do another like this maybe mention about the difference between the inner and outer race for the gears. Newbies may not know this! Severe wear and premature failure could be caused by putting them in wrong.
Have A Great Day!
Hope you two like the new place!
Daryl
Super video! One of the best I have seen! I like your methodical approach. Thanks much. I have a 1969 351W to do, I notice I dont have a dowel pin but will use you approach with the harmonic balancer to align.
Thanks! it just made good logical sense to me!
Hey. I really appreciate your videos and am using them to upgrade my ‘73 Ford 302. Based on timing chain slack and mileage I installed a new Edelbrock timing chain set. All went well and I followed your instructions for gasket installment. Got it all back together and went to fire it up. No fuel from the upgraded Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. So I immediately suspected the fuel pump eccentric? Bad decision! I should have started at the fuel pump because I had the in and out lines crossed.
But tomorrow I am going to put on the third timing chain gasket set and correctly install the new fuel pump. So going back to review for tomorrow. I eliminated the oil slinger per Edelbrock instructions. I have an inner fuel pump eccentric with retaining tab and pin on my camshaft. I have an outer free spinning sleeve which engages my fuel pump lever arm?
I noted u have the eccentric, but not the outer free spinning sleeve. What’s the difference?
I don’t want to do this again for the 4th time? Help, please explain.
Thanks for this video uncle Luke
Did you forget the oil deflector on the crankshaft? You do a great job!
my timing chain went on with absolutely no play- this chain had a large amount of movement?? when 1st going on it was slightly cocked, and there was similar play to yours
but further working the crank sprocket it tightened up completely
my timing set soaked in oil before installation
look at the video at 21:15 , is that cap between the harmonic balancer and seal correct? cause thats how far my balancer goes in
How would you torque that bolt if the engine is installed in car?
Just curious why dont run a thread chaser before mounting bolts?
I have dumb question. What's the timing cover seal supposed to look like once the harmonic balancer is in? Is it flushed flat to the shaft or is the rubber bent inwards?
I was taking apart my 1969 sbf 302 and got to the timing chain then I was astonished to find the timing chain bottom was steel and the gear that goes on the camshaft was part plastic is this how fords were put together back then? I just couldn't believe my eyes all the mopar's and Chevys I've done were all steel this is my first 302 which I'm making into a 331 for someone to put in a truck or car looking for 500 hp 500tq might spray or build for boost
Only in the 80s did that plastic crap happen
Well that makes me wonder if this motor has been rebuilt before but why put a plastic part of the chain I know people are cheap but damn,they did put 289 heads on it assuming they wanted more compression.just hope they didn't bore it out already now I need to go check it.
+Silvershark it is quite possible it has been bored. they did it in the 80s to try and quite engine noise. it was stupid. sounds like its been played with a few times for sure
+ThunderHead289 that's what I thought too but checked the bore it is a standard 302 bore my micrometer doesn't lie
Why do you put the water pump in the freezer before installation?
I have a 88 gt 5.0 just changed the chain was very loose over 15 degree's of play. While doing this I noticed the distributor gear was badly worn what could cause this ??? I replaced it with a standard, gear the gear is pressed on the shaft .the new gear only has one hole for dowl pin instructions say to drill hole out with 1/8 inch drill bit.but no mater what I couldn't drill the new gear way to hard of metal. Ended up just driving pin in as far as it would go and filed it down a Whisker just to be certain it wouldn't hit cam gear ..have you ever replaced a distributor gear like this that you have to drill ????
How long were the 4 bolts on bottom of timing cover. It's 2 on each side . The 2 on passenger side bolts harmonic pointer
Thank you for the video.
gene wiley hey, i hope they help!
Need info on size and placement of bolts
Oil deflector on the crank sprocket?? Forget it ?
Thank you for your video, currently on this step in my rebuild. Isn't there an indented washer that needs to go between the crank gear and the timing cover?
I think its the oil slinger...
Thank You
is that how far the balancer goes, how it shows in the video?
3M WEATHER STRIP ADHESIVE FOR FMS INS
im working on a 302 as well but stuck on the harmonic balancer, im not to sure how far it goes in. i have an balancer installer tool it def works but i notice thiers a half inch cap between the seal and the balancer. is that correct?
Sergio Campos theres another ring that goes on the balancer. Its for a heat censor and fan clutch. You bought wrong part.
I bought one of those C-3057K Cheapie $25 double roller chains from Cloyes. 600 miles it had stretched 4* of timing. Put a Cloyes Original true roller timing set on it and it's tight as a drum. I'm still not sure what the big difference is from the Original True Roller and the Street True Roller, I got the original anyways. I had a beef of a time getting the timing set on the chain was so tight.
I know that if you do not have the roller links they will really stretch out. I mean the timing chains with the bicycle chain style links
I am in the process of building a donor motor for my 85 GT, when it comes to timing gears I would like to go with a gear drive ( I like the sound) what are your thought with the gear drive performance??
I'd stay away from them if I were you or be around one for awhile. They are expensive and you will be sick of that wine after 1 day. Iv had one before. That was my personal opinion on it at least
Thanks!!! And I enjoy your 1-8 videos on tearing down and rebuild of the 302!!
+Chuck W MacLeod glad to hear it, hope it was helpful!!!
did you use grade 8 bolts?
Where is video 1 through 8 because I can only find this one
Where do you get a Cloyes true roller timing set for 40 bucks?? Summit lists them for $125 and up! Sure would like to know.
Dennis A send the link for the one you are looking at.
Summit part # CLO-9-1138 is $44 and its the one I like to use
is there a specific reason why there is a bolt missin under the harmanic?
6moneymaker2 there should be what appear to be two empty holes. these are where on this timing cover the water pump backing plate is bolted to the water pump from the backside. everything you see has bolts in it i promise you. there are actually no holes through the timing cover itself on this engine in that location. i believe the old mechanical pump cover has the holes for going through all of these items, but not the later 80s engines.
when I install my harmonic balancer on my 95 GT the engine stops turning. new timing chain but oem timing cover and stock balancer. some say it's hitting the cover but there is no visible signs of that. any common problems like this?
+TheSamplebridge . . . like you cannot turn your engine over?
+ThunderHead289 correct
the timing chain should not even be close to the cover if it is tightened all the way down and properly seated. if your timing chain is installed correctly ie - the cam plate installed with the timing chain facing the right direction and the dots lining up, you should have no issues.
It's not the timing chain. It's the harmonic balancer. When I torque it down to line up the pulley. When I get close and try to crank the engine over it will not. But when I back the balancer off it will turn again.
i mentioned the timing chain because if the top pulley is not installed correctly, the bottom gear will not be aligned properly and sit farther out. when the harmonic ballancer is tightened down, it will push against this gear and put the chain in a bind, thus stopping the engines rotation. there is nothing on the ballancer alone that could possibly stop the engine to my knowledge, but a timing chain sure could.
What type of bolts did you use grade 5 or grade 8
+Randall Ruel i used grade 5. grade 8s are too strong and do not get proper thread stretch. just be sure you are using grade 5 and not the crap unmarked bolts.
ThunderHead289 there is a time and place for grade 8 bolts. And a timing cover is not one of them. I like the grade 8's on suspensions. But not on the engine.
USE A 2X4 BLOCK BETWEEN CRANK AND BLOCK, SOFT WOOD
Nice job but I can just buy a new long block for cheap w all new internals w warranty. Why DIY a long block?
Well I did this whole engine for 650 bucks intake to pan versus about 1500 to 1800 you would pay for a stock long block. I personally buy short blocks because I don't have the time and thy is the most tedious work. - btw, many warranties on engines are not honored unless you take it in to be installed by certified mechanics - so that warranty stuff is crap. I used to be a mechanic before I went back to school and became an engineer.
It's nice but not all of us can afford to rebuild ourselves. trust me, if i could have done a whole 5.0 dream motor i would have done it myself in my dream garage. you did a great job though! i am a bit jealous.
+Charles Garcia dream motor? This one in particular was only 650 bucks. Very affordable to overhaul style rebuild I think I have yet to build a dream engine, is be too afraid to use it if I did !!!
"engine gas" "motor electric" but great video.
Been hearing this for years, but the actual definition of "motor" may surprise you. Look it up in a couple dictionaries, as well as a college physics book. A gas "engine" is a "motor" and it is not incorrect to refer to a gas engine by either term. Generally when we say engine we mean combustion or thermal conversion, but even engine can be loosely used if you look at the alternate meanings.
@ThunderHead289
I am replacing front seal on 76 ford bronco, felpro front oil seal looks different than yours.
www.cjponyparts.com/fel-pro-timing-chain-cover-gasket-set-v8-1965-1978/p/TCG1/
Mine does not have the metal flange i see on yours.
NO LUBE ON ECCENTRIC, CHAIN,GEARS, WHATS WITH THAT
you put the seal in the wrong side
Except I didn’t
Ok hAble español
gap