Thanks for showing this. I'll never rebuild, or be able to work on, my '65 Mustang, 2 bbl, 289, so I took it in today and was told the rings were shot and compression in 5 of the 8 is below 90. I had no clue what he was talking about. Now I know what parts he's referring to, where they're from, and what's involved with rings, and maybe a few other terms that were alien to me. Thanks again for the simple, but highly effective lesson.
There should not be any difference whatsoever. The biggest thing is snapping them. Just be careful. Iv done it many times, so I am used to the feel of the limit of the rings!
I am building a 302 and I had my cylinders honed. I bought new rings. My ring gaps are .24. I was going to order new rings so my gap is correct. What should I be looking for when I order?
Thank you for the good detailed videos you make I'm rebuilding my 94 302 out of my f150 and your videos have really helped me a lot still trying to decide on a hone job are a bore at the minute the cyinders are in pretty decent shape you can still see Factory crosshatch so I'm hopeing I can just hone it and be on my way
Your videos are the best I have seen on youtube so far as far as the "average Joe" car guy goes. Can I please ask for your opinion on what to do with my 6000 mile fully machined and professionally built 302 roller in an 86 Mustang GT?
thanks very much for the comment. it all depends how you have it set up and what you plan to do with it. Im doing an engine right now that will be a very well performing street engine. 302 base with afr165 heads, comp xe264hr cam and scorpion 1.72 full roller rockers. topping it all off with a dual plane air gap intake and summit 600 carb with pertronix ignitor 3 distributor. makes to be a fairly economical build that lands between 390 and 410 horsepower with a very useful torque curve for the street.
at 1:54 you say: the factory installed a rod with a piston and they are balance from the factory to be in a bore location ??? so when we remove to clean up and rebuild a engine, you say: we need to install the rod and piston right back into the same hole ??? wow i learned something...
They should all be static balanced technically BUT, if it ran that way balanced well before, placement should not be omitted. They were stamped with their respective number for a reason 👍
on the piston arms and the journal bearing caps should be numbered 1 through 8 cylinders numbers are ingraved in the piston arms and caps, see them with a good bright light.
At the end of the video series you mentioned you only got 20k miles on the engine. Any thoughts on why that happened? I'm looking at doing the same and want as much info if possible. Thank you!
The big bevel in the rods and the caps has to go towards the weights on the crankshaft in other words the sides with no bevel should face each other inside
+Matthew Baumann there should be some clearance of course, but not a ton. i mention the specs in one of these videos on how much overbore you can be and still be within spec. it may be in one of my cylinder honing videos.
That ain't no budget build lol I'm using junkyard bearing that are half copper color lol but I love the vid I'm watching these religiously till I get it down after Iv got it down and have 2 or 3 junkyard builds that successfuly run I'll spend the 1k a do an actual machined 30 over build with all new parts till then I'm only buying gaskets and oil lol
TREMENDOUSLY helpful even years later - I bought a book specifically for rebuilds and still was confused and this cleared me up
Your videos have been so helpful.im a rookie at building engines and you gave a chicken like me the confidence to tear into my engine.
Thanks for showing this. I'll never rebuild, or be able to work on, my '65 Mustang, 2 bbl, 289, so I took it in today and was told the rings were shot and compression in 5 of the 8 is below 90. I had no clue what he was talking about. Now I know what parts he's referring to, where they're from, and what's involved with rings, and maybe a few other terms that were alien to me. Thanks again for the simple, but highly effective lesson.
Thank you for a detailed video. Makes it easy to understand.
Have you ever had a problem with blowby from installing rings by hand compared to using ring pliers? Or if your careful will it be ok?
There should not be any difference whatsoever. The biggest thing is snapping them. Just be careful. Iv done it many times, so I am used to the feel of the limit of the rings!
ThunderHead289 ok thank you! Love your videos
+Brandon Lay thanks! Hope they are out there doing good things for people
Stupid question, isn't the oil pump supposed to be primed before installation? Just was wondering.
I am building a 302 and I had my cylinders honed. I bought new rings. My ring gaps are .24. I was going to order new rings so my gap is correct. What should I be looking for when I order?
Thank you for the good detailed videos you make I'm rebuilding my 94 302 out of my f150 and your videos have really helped me a lot still trying to decide on a hone job are a bore at the minute the cyinders are in pretty decent shape you can still see Factory crosshatch so I'm hopeing I can just hone it and be on my way
Does it Matter If I put Assembly lube on the back and Front of the Main Bearings before I put them on the Crank???
Your videos are the best I have seen on youtube so far as far as the "average Joe" car guy goes. Can I please ask for your opinion on what to do with my 6000 mile fully machined and professionally built 302 roller in an 86 Mustang GT?
thanks very much for the comment. it all depends how you have it set up and what you plan to do with it. Im doing an engine right now that will be a very well performing street engine. 302 base with afr165 heads, comp xe264hr cam and scorpion 1.72 full roller rockers. topping it all off with a dual plane air gap intake and summit 600 carb with pertronix ignitor 3 distributor. makes to be a fairly economical build that lands between 390 and 410 horsepower with a very useful torque curve for the street.
do you have an oil preference that she use in an 84 500 Mustang have you heard of using a Rotella in those engines
at 1:54 you say: the factory installed a rod with a piston and they are balance from the factory to be in a bore location ??? so when we remove to clean up and rebuild a engine, you say: we need to install the rod and piston right back into the same hole ??? wow i learned something...
They should all be static balanced technically BUT, if it ran that way balanced well before, placement should not be omitted. They were stamped with their respective number for a reason 👍
on the piston arms and the journal bearing caps should be numbered 1 through 8 cylinders numbers are ingraved in the piston arms and caps, see them with a good bright light.
What transmission you got in the ford truck your are driving at the end
At the end of the video series you mentioned you only got 20k miles on the engine. Any thoughts on why that happened? I'm looking at doing the same and want as much info if possible. Thank you!
🤔 I wonder what I said because I sold this engine to someone I knew and they are still running it to this very day.
@@ThunderHead289 is it still goin?
The big bevel in the rods and the caps has to go towards the weights on the crankshaft in other words the sides with no bevel should face each other inside
Obviously indeed
When I buy oversized pistons will I have to have machine shop to balance rods and pistons on budget rebuild
I generally don’t - usually a machine shop will balance each connecting rod assembly to each other. Which is good enough for sub 6500 rpm
@@ThunderHead289 thanks
what about the side rod clearance ?
Caps dont have a sequence ?
is it normal for the piston heads to have a little play once installed. like a little bit of wiggling
+Matthew Baumann there should be some clearance of course, but not a ton. i mention the specs in one of these videos on how much overbore you can be and still be within spec. it may be in one of my cylinder honing videos.
+ThunderHead289 thanks for the response ill check it out
where did you get the book at?
Can the compression ratio be changed with piston rings?
It cannot be
I guess I have to change the pistons then.
+Patriot OfGod or heads.
Shaved and ported?
+Patriot OfGod different heads with smaller combustion chambers do nicely to raise compression.
Part number for your rings and bearings please..
how deep is your fly cuts?
Brundon i did not measure them, they were bone stock with a very stockish cam. so i wasnt worried about clearance.
That ain't no budget build lol I'm using junkyard bearing that are half copper color lol but I love the vid I'm watching these religiously till I get it down after Iv got it down and have 2 or 3 junkyard builds that successfuly run I'll spend the 1k a do an actual machined 30 over build with all new parts till then I'm only buying gaskets and oil lol
Don't re-use those pistons. You'll be building an oil burner. They're too far gone.
you said discrepancy instead of discretion
RIP headset 😖
As fussy as you are, I'm surprised you are using a deflecting beam torque wrench.
Many old school mechanics still use these because they are typically “dead on accurate” with little need to calibrate regularly.
Badly out of focus
Or just recorded with a phone ten years ago.