I came because I'm new to Power Wheels and doing this for a friend...I wired up 3 12v LiFEPO4 20AH batteries so the system is parallel when it's off for charging...and series when it's on for 36v (Just Over 40v at full float charge). Your potentiometer needs will be directly related to the minimum voltage of your controller and the maximum voltage of the system...if you've got a 24v controller on a 36v system, you'll need 300 Ohms (approximately) to achieve full usage of the potentiometer.
I’ve got 4 12v lifepo batteries and a charger that can charge 12v or even 24v. And I’ve always wondered if I could wire them in parallel and charge more than one at the same time at 12v even though they each have their own BMS without damaging/“unbalancing” the batteries. You’re saying I can? Wire up 4 lifepo batteries in parallel and charge them at the same time at 12v? That’d save me the hassle of having to swap to a new battery each time one is full
@tysonhubbard95 unbalance won't happen because you're charging all at the same time...how many AH is your charger capable of...just remember parallel increases AH parallel does not. Let's say each is 20AH at series it would be 80AH...but at series/parallel 24v it would be 40AH
If you don’t mind, how much would you charge for a setup like this in a power wheels Barbie Jeep? I’ve got the 18v Ryobi batteries and adapters but that’s it. I’d love to get my daughters jeep moving faster but don’t have the knowledge to put all that together
Any chance you can give us the model number of the speed controller you used with reverse in vid . the link to speed controller in description is not the same as the one you are demoing . Cheers
does the variable speed pedal ramp (soft start) the motor up the volt range to max setting and down the volts back to zero as you let off.. while the potentiometer your using basically limits/defines what max is?
@@CustomKidzCars thought so... will use mine most via a remote- it wont be kids ride on.. but haul medical equipment etc and tools (it has a remote). will see if it has any soft start / ramp up ability with the remote. hope so. (Ive not put it together yet)
@@CustomKidzCars honestly thought remote would use Tank Steer method so it would be easy for parent to use remote to cancel out young kid riders steer input*.. Then discovered it has a motor on the steering column to turn the front wheels that way. Thus remote actually turns front wheels. Your likely right though no return to center. There is no joy stick on remote. BUTT... I might can adapt a different controller with return to center joy stick since I know it is a 2.4mhz controller. orrr... just put some springs on rig somehow that will pull it back to center. *it's a 24v (4wd) 6x6. two front tires steer. rear four tires each have 24v motors. I'll strip body to minimum. cut parts of body off to put on a basket. fill parts with spray foam to stiffen unibody if I lose some by cutting things off . Will put tread on rear 4 wheels orrr maybe with a tire tread from small car tire, make pair of tracks. Put one track around each side's pair tires. End result it would be a Half Track type thing. My concern is breaking the plastic gears by improving traction. Half Track th-cam.com/video/IdP-kww8pso/w-d-xo.html
@@CustomKidzCars what is difference between softstart and variable speed? is it "softstart" is more of an "preprogrammed ramping up/down of voltage/speed" ? While a [Variable speed pedal] is "variated/ramping of voltage/speed via your foot / pedal interaction
Great video . Is there a reason you used the key for forward and reverse instead of the stock shifter . Is the voltage too high hence cause melting of 3 pin shifter
@@CustomKidzCars I like the video . Want to try keep the shifter so might use an automotive relay to do heavy lifting and activate trigger wire using stock shifter . I do like how u have kept it all simple though and pot is a genius move to limit top speed .
Great video! I've copied this setup, added the low voltage cutoff, and everything works great except the pot. that darn thing seems to do nothing. when attached, i'm getting full voltage no matter where the dial is set. I have the Plastic smaller foot pedal throttle and the pot you recommended above and installed the pot on the green wire. no dice. not sure what to try next.
@@CustomKidzCars First off great video Thanks . The pedal that I used had red, black and yellow wires. I had no glue on which wire to cut into. So I cut into the yellow first. And got you full voltage problem. I soldered the yellow wire back together and when for the red wire. And that did the trick. So it was the red wire with my pedal setup. Again the video was a great help. Thanks.
Thanks for the Video, it was very helpfull for my build. Would you please share which controller you used? Can't find a 36v with reverse, just 48v and 24v :(. Thanks!
Where did you get those motors that can handle 36v? I hooked up a 36v lithium battery in one of our power wheels dune racer and it immediately burned up the stock motors
I got the key and motor controler you linked to but the controller outputs seem to be different than the video. I wired the key to the controller output called "speed selection switch" and all 3 key positions spin in the same direction. Do you use the reverse switch connector? That one only has 2 wires.
@@ishanperusinghe I used the 36V controller that doesn’t build a relay system. It works but doesn’t really have a brake system built into it. But power wise with a pedal it’s good. You have to use a separate switch for reverse but that’s fine.
This is amazing! I've been looking into something similar for my daughter's Jeep. Thank you for doing this video!
Can you post the part numbers to the TNC scooters stuff the links got cut off...
What would be the most optimal motor to go with to match this set up?
I came because I'm new to Power Wheels and doing this for a friend...I wired up 3 12v LiFEPO4 20AH batteries so the system is parallel when it's off for charging...and series when it's on for 36v (Just Over 40v at full float charge). Your potentiometer needs will be directly related to the minimum voltage of your controller and the maximum voltage of the system...if you've got a 24v controller on a 36v system, you'll need 300 Ohms (approximately) to achieve full usage of the potentiometer.
I’ve got 4 12v lifepo batteries and a charger that can charge 12v or even 24v.
And I’ve always wondered if I could wire them in parallel and charge more than one at the same time at 12v even though they each have their own BMS without damaging/“unbalancing” the batteries. You’re saying I can? Wire up 4 lifepo batteries in parallel and charge them at the same time at 12v? That’d save me the hassle of having to swap to a new battery each time one is full
@tysonhubbard95 unbalance won't happen because you're charging all at the same time...how many AH is your charger capable of...just remember parallel increases AH parallel does not. Let's say each is 20AH at series it would be 80AH...but at series/parallel 24v it would be 40AH
@tysonhubbard95 also...the fact that each battery has it's own BMS makes this possible.
Pot on the pedal output is GENIUS!! or should it be BEFORE the pedal...?
It's in the middle of the signal wire.
If you don’t mind, how much would you charge for a setup like this in a power wheels Barbie Jeep? I’ve got the 18v Ryobi batteries and adapters but that’s it. I’d love to get my daughters jeep moving faster but don’t have the knowledge to put all that together
Any chance you can give us the model number of the speed controller you used with reverse in vid . the link to speed controller in description is not the same as the one you are demoing . Cheers
does the variable speed pedal ramp (soft start) the motor up the volt range to max setting and down the volts back to zero as you let off.. while the potentiometer your using basically limits/defines what max is?
Basically a governor. Limits max voltage output
@@CustomKidzCars thought so... will use mine most via a remote- it wont be kids ride on.. but haul medical equipment etc and tools (it has a remote). will see if it has any soft start / ramp up ability with the remote. hope so. (Ive not put it together yet)
Will have soft start but not variable speed and your steering will suck as it's just a gearbox without self centering.
@@CustomKidzCars honestly thought remote would use Tank Steer method so it would be easy for parent to use remote to cancel out young kid riders steer input*.. Then discovered it has a motor on the steering column to turn the front wheels that way. Thus remote actually turns front wheels. Your likely right though no return to center. There is no joy stick on remote. BUTT... I might can adapt a different controller with return to center joy stick since I know it is a 2.4mhz controller. orrr... just put some springs on rig somehow that will pull it back to center.
*it's a 24v (4wd) 6x6. two front tires steer. rear four tires each have 24v motors. I'll strip body to minimum. cut parts of body off to put on a basket. fill parts with spray foam to stiffen unibody if I lose some by cutting things off . Will put tread on rear 4 wheels orrr maybe with a tire tread from small car tire, make pair of tracks. Put one track around each side's pair tires. End result it would be a Half Track type thing. My concern is breaking the plastic gears by improving traction.
Half Track th-cam.com/video/IdP-kww8pso/w-d-xo.html
@@CustomKidzCars what is difference between softstart and variable speed? is it "softstart" is more of an "preprogrammed ramping up/down of voltage/speed" ? While a [Variable speed pedal] is "variated/ramping of voltage/speed via your foot / pedal interaction
Great video . Is there a reason you used the key for forward and reverse instead of the stock shifter . Is the voltage too high hence cause melting of 3 pin shifter
Exactly, switches melt because they are only rated for 15 amps. The key is actually a switch for the relay
@@CustomKidzCars I like the video . Want to try keep the shifter so might use an automotive relay to do heavy lifting and activate trigger wire using stock shifter . I do like how u have kept it all simple though and pot is a genius move to limit top speed .
I love your video. I was just wondering if I could bypass using a controller and use a soft start module with voltage regulation?
R u referring to the cheap Amazon versions used on many models? If so it's possible but I am not impressed with the performance or reliability
Great video! I've copied this setup, added the low voltage cutoff, and everything works great except the pot. that darn thing seems to do nothing. when attached, i'm getting full voltage no matter where the dial is set. I have the Plastic smaller foot pedal throttle and the pot you recommended above and installed the pot on the green wire. no dice. not sure what to try next.
Should be spliced into the white signal wire
@@CustomKidzCars First off great video Thanks . The pedal that I used had red, black and yellow wires. I had no glue on which wire to cut into. So I cut into the yellow first. And got you full voltage problem. I soldered the yellow wire back together and when for the red wire. And that did the trick. So it was the red wire with my pedal setup. Again the video was a great help. Thanks.
Thanks for the Video, it was very helpfull for my build. Would you please share which controller you used? Can't find a 36v with reverse, just 48v and 24v :(. Thanks!
I put a link to the site in the video description for all the parts used. Thanks for watching
Where did you get those motors that can handle 36v? I hooked up a 36v lithium battery in one of our power wheels dune racer and it immediately burned up the stock motors
They don't handle 36 volts as discussed in the video. They already smoked one motor. That is the reason for the potentiometer to turn down the power
I got the key and motor controler you linked to but the controller outputs seem to be different than the video. I wired the key to the controller output called "speed selection switch" and all 3 key positions spin in the same direction. Do you use the reverse switch connector? That one only has 2 wires.
I’m in your boat currently. Did you find a solution?
Looking for same . Speed controller in link is different to one you use with reverse
@@ishanperusinghe I used the 36V controller that doesn’t build a relay system. It works but doesn’t really have a brake system built into it. But power wise with a pedal it’s good. You have to use a separate switch for reverse but that’s fine.
@@ishanperusinghe So I used electricscooterparts SPD-36500R. They’re a sister company to the link he has.
So the 24v speed controller handles the overvoltage with 41v from fully charge 18v Drill batteries ?
Yep, just wont have lvp but the Ryobi battery has lvc built in
Limiting the voltage with a Potentiometer is simple but isn't there a danger of overheating the pot?
It's on a 1-4 volt signal wire of the hall pedal so no
tutorial for installing engine sounds, boss
24 volt then amp might be 30 amp