We have had issues with 2 of the 4 stats recently installed. After placing additional sensors in the space, it was determined that the stat was off by 3 deg. We've followed the directions and adjusted the stat and our issues have gone away. Thank you.
I feel like this is a known issues with this brand but installers are pushing them. We just had one installed, felt great the first few days but then started to show a lower temp than actual (probably a 4-5 degree difference). That’s huge!! Followed your steps and saw it came calibrated to add 3 degrees already!! Either came from the manufacturer like that or the installers did that. Shady!!
A person from Daikin tech support told me that system has to be off for a minimum of 30 minutes before adjusting. Then go off the correct temperature probe you are using
The factoy does recommend to power off the tstat for 30 minutes let it stabilize then calibrate. There a program that adjusts the temp when the screen is lit as well as the light bar. Tstat needs to be in the off mode.
I'm still not understanding the purpose of why someone would set the display calibrated different than the "thermostat measured" no one , installers and tech alike working for the outfit I purchased the system from has an answer, anyone? Anyone?
Thermistors are not perfect some times they to be calibrated . A thermistor sense temperture then change resistance to voltage that resistance is how a Thermostat calculates temperature. Most stats have a 5 to six degree adjustments
They call it “calibration” but in reality it’s compensating for error. When I calibrated mine to 76, it starts showing 82 after the AC kicks on then it runs to 76, shuts off and shows 72. Junk thermostat and I regret buying it
It’s a piece of crap I have two of these crap things!!!!! My main stat just runs constantly even on auto mode it never drops!!!!! Then sometimes it’s nice and cool and then other times it’s humid and mucky in the house. I had it set at 72 and it was just so uncomfortable and humid so I dropped it to 68 and it’s nice and cool but it’s just running continuously doesn’t cycle with auto on. When u bring the temp up to make it shut off it jolts the temp right up and back on it goes!!!! Any thoughts on what might be going on? I’ve drove my self insane trying to figure out why this expensive wall mount won’t do its job when it’s in auto mode. If anyone has any tips I would be forever grateful lol 😂
Hi, I think you might be experiencing a similar problem to the one I solved yesterday. I don’t have AC so the problem was related to heating - but basically, after proper calibration, the Daikin One would only read the room temp accurately when the furnace was off. As soon as the furnace/HP would kick in, the indicated temps would be way off, and in response, the furnace would kick into high gear and blast us with hot air until the house felt far too hot. Finally after the furnace would stop, the t-stat temps would gradually increase and adjust to match the other thermometers we had in the room. It seemed like the system was causing its own feedback loop, and was driving me crazy. Finally yesterday, I realized that the t-stat is mounted in front of an air return duct. There’s a grille in the room above, and one below. So whenever the HVAC starts up, there’s air rushing behind it. Furthermore, the hole cut into the drywall where the tstat wires come through, is massive! So essentially, there was cool air blasting the back of the tstat whenever HVAC was running, which was skewing its readings and forcing it to react accordingly. The solution I found, was to insulate that hole. I cut a double-layer square of that thin packing foam that electronics are often packed with. Cut a slit for the wires, and placed the foam over the hole, so that it was sandwiched between the base plate and the wall. And lo and behold, the problem was instantly solved. You can probably use some sort of putty as well (like plumbers putty), but I like the foam packing material because it eliminates the draft and also insulates.
@@shanksworthy Hey there, I appreciate your comment and I certainly hope that you see this. I'm having this EXACT issue. They have replaced the thermister twice now and foamed behind it, but no dice. Is it possible they just did a poor insulation job and it's still having this issue? your explanation makes the most sense as to what the problem is for me, and it's costing me a pretty penny as the unit only kicks on high gear since the thermistat instantly drops several degrees when it comes on and only goes back to normal readings when I manually shut the unit off. it has to be the draft, yeah? otherwise the unit reads the temp correctly when in off position/ no air is moving. So adjusting/ calibrating won't do jack for me, correct? Thanks for coming on here with this intel, btw.
@@Blackeyedangel Yes, if your thermostat is vertically aligned with a cold air return vent (even if it’s on a different floor) then you can be sure that there’s a duct behind it, in which case this is absolutely what’s happening to you. If you think about it, your furnace only comes on when the room drops below a certain threshold. So initially, the cold air return is pulling in relatively cool air, and if there’s a poorly insulated hole behind your thermostat, it’s getting blasted with that cooler air and your thermistor will interpret that as a sudden temp drop. And that’s strong enough to override the room temp. It responds by activating the furnace until the room has heated enough that the air rushing behind your thermostat is warm enough to bring your thermistor to the set point. But that takes much longer than if your thermostat were only responding to ambient room temp, so you end up with an overly hot house. If it’s the same person who came both times, perhaps they just aren’t doing a great job of insulating it. Those thin sheets of packing foam work surprisingly well. 2 layers is all it took for me, and maybe even 1 would have been enough (didn’t try).
@shanksworthy With the amana or daikin variable speed systems duct static has a huge roll in how the system will operate with gas heat if the ductwork is too small the high limit trips causing the blower to run all time time once the limit resets furnace comes back then trips again causing long run times and big temperature swings. Similar effect with a heat pump tripping on head pressuse bring on electric heater more then normal. My main point is nothen is right until air flow is right Total system static is .50 max, if your contrator cant answer that question time for a new contractor.
@@hvaciswin723 sorry I think you may have misunderstood me. My problem was that my Daikin thermostat was mounted over a cold air return duct, and the drywall hole to feed the wires through to the tstat was gigantic. So I solved it by covering the hole with an insulating material, simple as that. That resolved the problem completely. The person I was responding to (@Blackeyedangel) seems to be seeing almost identical symptoms. This phenomenon probably affects more homeowners than most HVAC specialists realize. They run the tstat wires through cold air return duct because it’s easy, then they punch a 2” hole to feed the wires, then never take necessary steps to adequately narrow/insulate that hole. If the homeowner complains and tries to describe the problem, the HVAC specialist just shrugs and spins some plausible theory, then problems like this go unsolved for years. The Daikin tstat is especially sensitive to ambient temp fluctuations, so it’s going to be more affected than others. But it’s such a simple fix.
We have had issues with 2 of the 4 stats recently installed. After placing additional sensors in the space, it was determined that the stat was off by 3 deg. We've followed the directions and adjusted the stat and our issues have gone away. Thank you.
Thanks, super helpful
Where do you set the heat strip size? In the dealer edit menu under equipment?
I feel like this is a known issues with this brand but installers are pushing them. We just had one installed, felt great the first few days but then started to show a lower temp than actual (probably a 4-5 degree difference). That’s huge!! Followed your steps and saw it came calibrated to add 3 degrees already!! Either came from the manufacturer like that or the installers did that. Shady!!
A person from Daikin tech support told me that system has to be off for a minimum of 30 minutes before adjusting. Then go off the correct temperature probe you are using
The factoy does recommend to power off the tstat for 30 minutes let it stabilize then calibrate. There a program that adjusts the temp when the screen is lit as well as the light bar. Tstat needs to be in the off mode.
I'm still not understanding the purpose of why someone would set the display calibrated different than the "thermostat measured" no one , installers and tech alike working for the outfit I purchased the system from has an answer, anyone? Anyone?
Thermistors are not perfect some times they to be calibrated . A thermistor sense temperture then change resistance to voltage that resistance is how a Thermostat calculates temperature. Most stats have a 5 to six degree adjustments
They call it “calibration” but in reality it’s compensating for error. When I calibrated mine to 76, it starts showing 82 after the AC kicks on then it runs to 76, shuts off and shows 72. Junk thermostat and I regret buying it
It’s a piece of crap I have two of these crap things!!!!! My main stat just runs constantly even on auto mode it never drops!!!!! Then sometimes it’s nice and cool and then other times it’s humid and mucky in the house. I had it set at 72 and it was just so uncomfortable and humid so I dropped it to 68 and it’s nice and cool but it’s just running continuously doesn’t cycle with auto on. When u bring the temp up to make it shut off it jolts the temp right up and back on it goes!!!! Any thoughts on what might be going on? I’ve drove my self insane trying to figure out why this expensive wall mount won’t do its job when it’s in auto mode. If anyone has any tips I would be forever grateful lol 😂
Hi, I think you might be experiencing a similar problem to the one I solved yesterday. I don’t have AC so the problem was related to heating - but basically, after proper calibration, the Daikin One would only read the room temp accurately when the furnace was off. As soon as the furnace/HP would kick in, the indicated temps would be way off, and in response, the furnace would kick into high gear and blast us with hot air until the house felt far too hot. Finally after the furnace would stop, the t-stat temps would gradually increase and adjust to match the other thermometers we had in the room. It seemed like the system was causing its own feedback loop, and was driving me crazy.
Finally yesterday, I realized that the t-stat is mounted in front of an air return duct. There’s a grille in the room above, and one below. So whenever the HVAC starts up, there’s air rushing behind it. Furthermore, the hole cut into the drywall where the tstat wires come through, is massive! So essentially, there was cool air blasting the back of the tstat whenever HVAC was running, which was skewing its readings and forcing it to react accordingly.
The solution I found, was to insulate that hole. I cut a double-layer square of that thin packing foam that electronics are often packed with. Cut a slit for the wires, and placed the foam over the hole, so that it was sandwiched between the base plate and the wall. And lo and behold, the problem was instantly solved.
You can probably use some sort of putty as well (like plumbers putty), but I like the foam packing material because it eliminates the draft and also insulates.
@@shanksworthy Hey there, I appreciate your comment and I certainly hope that you see this. I'm having this EXACT issue. They have replaced the thermister twice now and foamed behind it, but no dice. Is it possible they just did a poor insulation job and it's still having this issue? your explanation makes the most sense as to what the problem is for me, and it's costing me a pretty penny as the unit only kicks on high gear since the thermistat instantly drops several degrees when it comes on and only goes back to normal readings when I manually shut the unit off. it has to be the draft, yeah? otherwise the unit reads the temp correctly when in off position/ no air is moving. So adjusting/ calibrating won't do jack for me, correct? Thanks for coming on here with this intel, btw.
@@Blackeyedangel Yes, if your thermostat is vertically aligned with a cold air return vent (even if it’s on a different floor) then you can be sure that there’s a duct behind it, in which case this is absolutely what’s happening to you.
If you think about it, your furnace only comes on when the room drops below a certain threshold. So initially, the cold air return is pulling in relatively cool air, and if there’s a poorly insulated hole behind your thermostat, it’s getting blasted with that cooler air and your thermistor will interpret that as a sudden temp drop. And that’s strong enough to override the room temp. It responds by activating the furnace until the room has heated enough that the air rushing behind your thermostat is warm enough to bring your thermistor to the set point. But that takes much longer than if your thermostat were only responding to ambient room temp, so you end up with an overly hot house.
If it’s the same person who came both times, perhaps they just aren’t doing a great job of insulating it. Those thin sheets of packing foam work surprisingly well. 2 layers is all it took for me, and maybe even 1 would have been enough (didn’t try).
@shanksworthy
With the amana or daikin variable speed systems duct static has a huge roll in how the system will operate with gas heat if the ductwork is too small the high limit trips causing the blower to run all time time once the limit resets furnace comes back then trips again causing long run times and big temperature swings. Similar effect with a heat pump tripping on head pressuse bring on electric heater more then normal. My main point is nothen is right until air flow is right
Total system static is .50 max, if your contrator cant answer that question time for a new contractor.
@@hvaciswin723 sorry I think you may have misunderstood me. My problem was that my Daikin thermostat was mounted over a cold air return duct, and the drywall hole to feed the wires through to the tstat was gigantic. So I solved it by covering the hole with an insulating material, simple as that. That resolved the problem completely.
The person I was responding to (@Blackeyedangel) seems to be seeing almost identical symptoms. This phenomenon probably affects more homeowners than most HVAC specialists realize. They run the tstat wires through cold air return duct because it’s easy, then they punch a 2” hole to feed the wires, then never take necessary steps to adequately narrow/insulate that hole. If the homeowner complains and tries to describe the problem, the HVAC specialist just shrugs and spins some plausible theory, then problems like this go unsolved for years. The Daikin tstat is especially sensitive to ambient temp fluctuations, so it’s going to be more affected than others. But it’s such a simple fix.