Changed the blades on my Cub Cadet LTX 1050KW and found the spring you found hanging in the video laying on my garage floor. Thanks to your video I recognized it quickly and was able to hook it up properly. Thanks!
Excellent video! I need to get the deck off to replace a spindle. Almost thought of taking it someplace to have it done but very confident in the deck removal now. Thanks!
For a very small part of the spindle cost you can just replace the bearings, that is all that needs replacement, watch a video if you have not done a replacement.
Excellent! Unfortunately so many who want to be a help do not realize how important light is for viewing each step, but your camera work has left no guessing...
Somehow I did this without removing that bracket/guide for the belt before but I can't remember for sure how I did it. Hopefully it will come back to me when I get to it. Thanks for the video! Good refresher...
The chute-side came right off but I had to remove the bolt on the other. Maybe I had to do it before and just forgot. it's been a while. I did find that I have been mowing with the blades on upside down for at least a couple years....It still somehow cut ok, but had to come double check your video when I realized it, and sure enough! So, thanks again!! At least explains why they hit the stump and got bent (and hence why I had to remove the deck and replace them)...
If I may: On the drive belt guard bracket you really only need to loosen one of the 1/2" bolts to get the belt off which makes it easier than try to get the bolts back in the holes that you can't see. Also when you have sharpened the blades center them and "free float" to check balance. I use the handle of a screw driver in a vise to check that. Ideally take more off a side if it balances "lower". This saves wear on your spindle bearings if the blade is balanced as it won't wobble.
This is doing it the painfully difficult way. Go get a riding lawn mower deck, they have them at home depot, Big R, Coastal, basically everywhere for about $200 or so. You'll want it anyway for easy access to clean underneath and inspect as well as sharpening blades. Jack up the front. Make sure tractor/mower can't fall off lift! Put a 3/8's drive breaker bar (it's a 18" long bar for sockets without the ratchet capability from any auto store) with 15/16 socket on there and I use my foot to push on the bar. It takes a lot of pushing even with your foot but if you're going lefty/loosey (when looking from the ground up towards the blades) it will eventually budge loose. I just saved you an hour everytime you want to sharpen your blades, you're welcome.
in the manual it tells how to install the deck, it says to place a 3/8 drive breaker bar in a square hole on the idler pulley arm, and I use a short pipe to help , put the idler arm back and slide the breaker bar pipe down behind the pulley and it will hold it there till you get the belt on, this releases the tension on the belt and you put the belt on after you have all the lift arms attached, it goes very easy after you follow the instructions, not strap needed,
I just did mine yesterday. I found out you can just remove one of the bolts (right side) on the bracket that prevents the belt from coming off and then can slip the belt under it.
need to ask my cub cadet ltx1042kw had a idling pulley shred to pieces after only 111 hours of use .I did get new ones from cau cadet under warranty .But are they easy to remove or should I let some one do it .I am a pretty handy women .Also want to ask about the shrouds over the top spindle pulleys trapping grass and it is really hard to remover each time I mow even with the deck washing kit that came with the mower and doing it every time I mow .I have to use my fingers and screw driver just to get it out .Are those shrouds really needed .I use 2 ride on mowers to do my 3 acres so they do not get over used .Hence only 111 hours on cubby .I have a troy built also
First thing I do after buying a new tractor mower is remove the factory blades and throw them away. They are a weak design and are of a softer metal so they chip easy. I then replace those with a set of "high lift" heavy blades. Like apples and oranges in comparison. Besides if you are using a bagger, you'll need the extra lift wind power to get the clippings in the bag.
you don't need a ratchet strap all you have to do is loosen the 2 3/4 nuts on the front rod and put the deck height on number 2 not low and it will go right on
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the nuts off that hold the blades in place. They won't budge. I have tried WD-40 and PB Blaster on the nut. You say to use an "extension pipe" on the wrench, is that for a ratchet driver only? I don't have a 15/16" socket, just a 15/16" open wrench -- so I'm not sure what to do. Also, for an LTX 1040 you have an additional step of removing the PTO engagement cable and spring before removing the deck; this is held onto the deck by a small clip and the spring hooks into a hole on the tensioner. I noticed your Cub doesn't have a PTO engagement cable or lever.
Yeah, I have an old steel pipe that fits nicely over my socket wrench handle for when I need a "torque boost". If you are using a two-sided crescent wrench, you could use a larger bore pipe if you have one. I've also been known to use the same ratcheting straps on the wrench to get enough torque. Good luck!
Yep it's called a cheater bar... aka a big piece of pipe that you put over the handle of your socket wrench or in your case open wrench and it give you massive leverage. You're probably losing leverage because open wrenches are generally the worst for producing torque, second only to a crescent wrench which will always have some play no matter how tightened up it is. You really should invest in a simple set of sockets. Napa Auto and Oriely have very long torque bar socket wrenches just for this kind of thing. I have two of them and they're great for when you really have a stubborn bolt that refuses to come off. The handles are extra long so it gives you the torque you need and if that's not enough throw your cheater bar/pipe over the handle and extend out another foot or two and that will get it done.
15/16" Six point Socket and a long breaker bar. No need to remove deck. 4x4 x5" long wood to hold blade against deck. Torque to 80 Ft. Lbs when reinstalling new blades. Use Rotary brand blades P/N 942-4244 $12.25 ea. 2 required for 46" deck.
15/16 combination wrench and 7/8 combination wrench and a short piece of 2x4 . Hook the two combination wrenches together and jam blade with 2x4 and lean on it. Wear gloves.
I remove my blades most every day because I have a lawn service and there is no substitute for sharp blades when cutting customers grass. I have folks ask why when I get done cutting their lawn it looks so much better than the previous contractor. I tell them because I use sharp blades. I get under mower deck with a sharp set and just exchange blades. Takes maybe ten minutes. Word of caution. When you have the front belt keeper off or loose, do not start the engine. You will tear all the electric clutch wiring off. And you do not want to see the cost to repair that wiring. Another secret of mine is take those spindle pulley covers off. All they do is gather clippings and heat up the spindles. I have seen fires start from the clippings from under those pulleys. My neighbor lost his garage from a fire. I warned him, he didn't listen.
Thanks for the tip! I can now get the deck off in 5 min, sharpen, and put the deck back on in about 10 more min. I have also replaced the blades many times in the 7 years since I made the video. I have also replaced the spindles once (easy), the starter once (easy), the deck belt (a little bit of a pain), and have been through a couple of batteries.
@@flostevematt I have a lawn service that I operate alone. I do all the maintenance. I don't replace spindles. I replace the bearings. Buy them on Ebay and if you get the right price the cost is almost nothing. In most cases the parts to these lawn garden tractors are all the same. I think there is only one deck manufacturer. Since they changed the spindle design to four bolts the spindles are mounted sturdier. If you have never changed the spindle bearings, watch a video and you'll will be appalled at the amount of money you can save and how easy it is. I also take the new bearings apart and repack them with Lucas sticky red grease before installing. From the factory, grease in the bearings is minimal and only designed to last for a few hours. I am eight-two years old, I have been there and done that many times. I found out years ago to do a little homework and within reason do the job myself. I come from the farm so my life experiences started very early. Thanks for your interesting video.
Greasing sounds fine. BUT if the bearing assembler didn't remove the inside dirt cover of the bearing before installing you will not no matter what get grease to the bearing surface you think you are greasing. You can only find the truth if you take the spindle bearing out. Just because there is a grease fitting on the spindle doesn't mean you can get grease to the bearing surface if that cover is still in place. Don't trust the manufacturer. I had to learn the hard way. After all they are in the business of selling you new product or parts.
The blades are a matched set and I have learned to sharpen the new ones to cut much easier. No need to remove the deck. Jack it up with a special lift or run it up on ramps. I use a cheater bar also to break loose the nuts. I have learned to monitor your tire pressure on the lawn mower to prevent the blades from digging into the sod when turning. Happy mowing
That's what I'm wondering. I have a lift and wonder why you have to take off the entire deck. A lift is a few hundred bucks and you should always have one if you have a rider.
I bought a mower lift at Tractor Supply for $100, jacked mower up and had blades changed in 10 minutes. Used it all summer and this spring without them coming off. :-)
That's great! 10 minutes - it takes me longer than that to sharpen the blades. Can you post a video of this? I'm amazed that the whole procedure can be done this quickly.
Changed the blades on my Cub Cadet LTX 1050KW and found the spring you found hanging in the video laying on my garage floor. Thanks to your video I recognized it quickly and was able to hook it up properly. Thanks!
Glad I could help! That spring gets me every time!
I just replaced both blade spindles. One had a catastrophic failure. They were cheap on Amazon.
Great video. Thanks for the great camera work and thorough explanation. You saved me hours of frustration.
Thanks for simplifying the deck removal process. The manual is useless- but your video made it a simple process-thanks again
Happy to have helped. I was getting ready to sharpen my blades today, but got stuck fixing my weedwhacker which would not start.
Excellent video! I need to get the deck off to replace a spindle. Almost thought of taking it someplace to have it done but very confident in the deck removal now. Thanks!
Good luck with it!
For a very small part of the spindle cost you can just replace the bearings, that is all that needs replacement, watch a video if you have not done a replacement.
Thank you very much for your excellent, step-by-step explanation of the removal and re-installation of the mower deck. It was very helpful!
You're welcome! Best of luck!
Excellent! Unfortunately so many who want to be a help do not realize how important light is for viewing each step, but your camera work has left no guessing...
Thanks! It was a bright day outside.
The best video on this. Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for the video. Sure made putting the deck back on much easier.
You're welcome!
got sidetracked yesterday. I have different model. My job was to replace blades, they're too far gone. Job completed, thank you
Thank you for your video! That's exactly what i was looking for.
Happy to help!
Somehow I did this without removing that bracket/guide for the belt before but I can't remember for sure how I did it. Hopefully it will come back to me when I get to it. Thanks for the video! Good refresher...
statikreg it definitely seems like the belt should fit under the bracket, but I wasn't able to get it to fit. Let me know if you do.
The chute-side came right off but I had to remove the bolt on the other. Maybe I had to do it before and just forgot. it's been a while. I did find that I have been mowing with the blades on upside down for at least a couple years....It still somehow cut ok, but had to come double check your video when I realized it, and sure enough! So, thanks again!!
At least explains why they hit the stump and got bent (and hence why I had to remove the deck and replace them)...
If I may: On the drive belt guard bracket you really only need to loosen one of the 1/2" bolts to get the belt off which makes it easier than try to get the bolts back in the holes that you can't see. Also when you have sharpened the blades center them and "free float" to check balance. I use the handle of a screw driver in a vise to check that. Ideally take more off a side if it balances "lower". This saves wear on your spindle bearings if the blade is balanced as it won't wobble.
Hi David. Thanks for your comments. Do you have a video of your procedure?
@@flostevematt I do not but I am sure there are some videos on balancing the blades.
Thank you for the video, very informative.
This is doing it the painfully difficult way. Go get a riding lawn mower deck, they have them at home depot, Big R, Coastal, basically everywhere for about $200 or so. You'll want it anyway for easy access to clean underneath and inspect as well as sharpening blades. Jack up the front. Make sure tractor/mower can't fall off lift! Put a 3/8's drive breaker bar (it's a 18" long bar for sockets without the ratchet capability from any auto store) with 15/16 socket on there and I use my foot to push on the bar. It takes a lot of pushing even with your foot but if you're going lefty/loosey (when looking from the ground up towards the blades) it will eventually budge loose.
I just saved you an hour everytime you want to sharpen your blades, you're welcome.
in the manual it tells how to install the deck, it says to place a 3/8 drive breaker bar in a square hole on the idler pulley arm, and I use a short pipe to help , put the idler arm back and slide the breaker bar pipe down behind the pulley and it will hold it there till you get the belt on, this releases the tension on the belt and you put the belt on after you have all the lift arms attached, it goes very easy after you follow the instructions, not strap needed,
Thanks.
Nice job. I think that I can do it now. Thanks
I just did mine yesterday. I found out you can just remove one of the bolts (right side) on the bracket that prevents the belt from coming off and then can slip the belt under it.
Thanks, Had to hit breaker bar with rubber mallet to break loose the bolt
They are reallllllllly on there. I use my foot to press on my long socket / breaker bar.
Thanks !!!
That is Flawlessness
need to ask my cub cadet ltx1042kw had a idling pulley shred to pieces after only 111 hours of use .I did get new ones from cau cadet under warranty .But are they easy to remove or should I let some one do it .I am a pretty handy women .Also want to ask about the shrouds over the top spindle pulleys trapping grass and it is really hard to remover each time I mow even with the deck washing kit that came with the mower and doing it every time I mow .I have to use my fingers and screw driver just to get it out .Are those shrouds really needed .I use 2 ride on mowers to do my 3 acres so they do not get over used .Hence only 111 hours on cubby .I have a troy built also
I also decide to buy the extreme blades to replace the other blades .Cub cadet said they are better
First thing I do after buying a new tractor mower is remove the factory blades and throw them away. They are a weak design and are of a softer metal so they chip easy. I then replace those with a set of "high lift" heavy blades. Like apples and oranges in comparison. Besides if you are using a bagger, you'll need the extra lift wind power to get the clippings in the bag.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
you don't need a ratchet strap all you have to do is loosen the 2 3/4 nuts on the front rod and put the deck height on number 2 not low and it will go right on
I'll try that. Thanks!
@@flostevematt you're welcome
Very helpful, thank you. Are the spindles permanently lubed?
Hi Mike. They do require lubrication and have zerks at the base for doing so.
I'm having a lot of trouble getting the nuts off that hold the blades in place. They won't budge. I have tried WD-40 and PB Blaster on the nut. You say to use an "extension pipe" on the wrench, is that for a ratchet driver only? I don't have a 15/16" socket, just a 15/16" open wrench -- so I'm not sure what to do.
Also, for an LTX 1040 you have an additional step of removing the PTO engagement cable and spring before removing the deck; this is held onto the deck by a small clip and the spring hooks into a hole on the tensioner. I noticed your Cub doesn't have a PTO engagement cable or lever.
Yeah, I have an old steel pipe that fits nicely over my socket wrench handle for when I need a "torque boost". If you are using a two-sided crescent wrench, you could use a larger bore pipe if you have one. I've also been known to use the same ratcheting straps on the wrench to get enough torque.
Good luck!
Yep it's called a cheater bar... aka a big piece of pipe that you put over the handle of your socket wrench or in your case open wrench and it give you massive leverage. You're probably losing leverage because open wrenches are generally the worst for producing torque, second only to a crescent wrench which will always have some play no matter how tightened up it is. You really should invest in a simple set of sockets. Napa Auto and Oriely have very long torque bar socket wrenches just for this kind of thing. I have two of them and they're great for when you really have a stubborn bolt that refuses to come off. The handles are extra long so it gives you the torque you need and if that's not enough throw your cheater bar/pipe over the handle and extend out another foot or two and that will get it done.
15/16" Six point Socket and a long breaker bar. No need to remove deck. 4x4 x5" long wood to hold blade against deck. Torque to 80 Ft. Lbs when reinstalling new blades. Use Rotary brand blades P/N 942-4244 $12.25 ea. 2 required for 46" deck.
This was for a XT-1 22 hp 46" stamped deck.
15/16 combination wrench and 7/8 combination wrench and a short piece of 2x4 . Hook the two combination wrenches together and jam blade with 2x4 and lean on it. Wear gloves.
I remove my blades most every day because I have a lawn service and there is no substitute for sharp blades when cutting customers grass. I have folks ask why when I get done cutting their lawn it looks so much better than the previous contractor. I tell them because I use sharp blades. I get under mower deck with a sharp set and just exchange blades. Takes maybe ten minutes. Word of caution. When you have the front belt keeper off or loose, do not start the engine. You will tear all the electric clutch wiring off. And you do not want to see the cost to repair that wiring. Another secret of mine is take those spindle pulley covers off. All they do is gather clippings and heat up the spindles. I have seen fires start from the clippings from under those pulleys. My neighbor lost his garage from a fire. I warned him, he didn't listen.
Thanks for the tip! I can now get the deck off in 5 min, sharpen, and put the deck back on in about 10 more min. I have also replaced the blades many times in the 7 years since I made the video. I have also replaced the spindles once (easy), the starter once (easy), the deck belt (a little bit of a pain), and have been through a couple of batteries.
@@flostevematt I have a lawn service that I operate alone. I do all the maintenance. I don't replace spindles. I replace the bearings. Buy them on Ebay and if you get the right price the cost is almost nothing. In most cases the parts to these lawn garden tractors are all the same. I think there is only one deck manufacturer. Since they changed the spindle design to four bolts the spindles are mounted sturdier. If you have never changed the spindle bearings, watch a video and you'll will be appalled at the amount of money you can save and how easy it is. I also take the new bearings apart and repack them with Lucas sticky red grease before installing. From the factory, grease in the bearings is minimal and only designed to last for a few hours. I am eight-two years old, I have been there and done that many times. I found out years ago to do a little homework and within reason do the job myself. I come from the farm so my life experiences started very early. Thanks for your interesting video.
did you skip the part about re-balancing the blades after sharpening?
Where does the cable that has the spring go??
TY, working on it now.
How did it go?
Dont u hav to put a wrench on other end when taking off blades ?
No. The spindles have a star pattern to keep the blades oriented correctly. Just use a block to stop the blade, and tighten with a single wrench.
Grease the blade spindle hubs? My hubs have grease zerks. Otherwise a very helpful video, thanks!
Greasing sounds fine. BUT if the bearing assembler didn't remove the inside dirt cover of the bearing before installing you will not no matter what get grease to the bearing surface you think you are greasing. You can only find the truth if you take the spindle bearing out. Just because there is a grease fitting on the spindle doesn't mean you can get grease to the bearing surface if that cover is still in place. Don't trust the manufacturer. I had to learn the hard way. After all they are in the business of selling you new product or parts.
The blades are a matched set and I have learned to sharpen the new ones to cut much easier. No need to remove the deck. Jack it up with a special lift or run it up on ramps. I use a cheater bar also to break loose the nuts. I have learned to monitor your tire pressure on the lawn mower to prevent the blades from digging into the sod when turning. Happy mowing
how do you take off the pto
Impact wrench was the only way i was able to get mine off.
Nothing like a Scrub Cadet!
This is different than the LTX 1045. You have a cable and spring to remove. This is not easy.
Yeah, this is for the 1046.
🔺💜 💜 💜
Why not show how to remove clutch cable
It is not required in this procedure.
Is it different for Kohler? Have a cable going to deck
Jaymobe07 he does too they just do not show the removal....
why can't you just jack the mower up and take off the blades?
If you've got a lift, go for it. And videotape it for us.
That's what I'm wondering. I have a lift and wonder why you have to take off the entire deck. A lift is a few hundred bucks and you should always have one if you have a rider.
I bought a mower lift at Tractor Supply for $100, jacked mower up and had blades changed in 10 minutes. Used it all summer and this spring without them coming off. :-)
That's great! 10 minutes - it takes me longer than that to sharpen the blades. Can you post a video of this? I'm amazed that the whole procedure can be done this quickly.
Great work! Can you post a video of this?