This is a video on how I replaced my drive belt (transmission drive) on my Cub Cadet lawnmower. My Cub is a model 1527 but I am sure it is very similar to the other Cub Cadet models.
Ughhh took me 40min.electric Impact gun on the clutch bolt saved me from turning over motor with regular wrench. Tipped tractor over and gas spilled out one way and the other way oil poured out of the valve cover . What a pain in the ass to put the spring back on the the tension pully. Wasn’t a horrible job but it saved me a few hundred dollars. TH-cam mechanic ftw thanks
Bought a used ltx1050 an am getting a education on wornout oullys. only had the 2 tensioner pullys on the driive belt system. missing the 3rd idler pully,somehow it worked .Belt jumped off, need the third vidlerpully.Goin shopping .Yhanks 6 da vid,saved me time.
I watched several videos before finding this. You explain it the best of all the other videos I have seen. So you are the only one who gets a like from me. Thanks.
The engine drive pulley should slide down the shaft easily, This will eliminate the need for bending the tabs that keep the belt on the pulley once it is replaced.
Thanks this video helped me replace my drive belt on my 2006 Series 1500 Cub C. A tip I would add is to take off one of the front wheels. They are just held on with a cotter pin, easy to take off and then this gives better access to the clutch and belt area.
Bending those belt stays out of the way can be a real bitch. I did it but it was rough. There's not much surface to grab hold of. I also used a hammer and a big punch that is flat on both ends. When I got done I used a giant pair of channel lock pliers to bend them back. I also had to remove all four engine mount bolts so I could move the engine around a tiny bit. What a pain in the ass just to replace a belt.
Good tip on the blunt punch. I just did that same method on mine. I tried to slide the pulley down a bit but it was frozen with 9 years of gunk. 3 Hours to change a belt? Mostly laying there trying to figure out how I was going to do it. I said to my wife who came down to the shop to see if I was still alive, "This mower was not designed to repair". I bet you agree. I finally just bent the retainer tabs out, put on the belt, bent them back. I'm happy to see others came to the same conclusion. Mowin' agin....
This is the BEST and most useful video on this (that I've found thus far). I have searched 12 other videos, and those videos were not helpful at all....they were mostly worthless. This video actually gave me a GREAT idea of what to expect. So, THANK YOU for this information! Now I can begin my attempt at repair. 🤞
Thanks for the video Paul. Being a women that is 65 years old I probably can't do this. Although I know I could of 20 years ago. I just wanted to know what it took to get ER done. Also being a women I try to learn as much as I can about the problem I am having before taking it into the shop so They don't try to pull the wool over my eyes and cost me more! At least if I know a little something about it they might think twice to try to charge me more then they should. Thanks again for the demo!
Paul, Do your pulleys line up straight? Mine appears that the rear smaller pulley sets closer to the frame than the one on the tension bracket causing a slight offset.
What Cub was this? Why do guys not mention this? They've made them for decades with multiple different models and engines and transmissions and... Ok, he mentions that at the very end... 🤦. Thanks for the great info otherwise.
So tonight I replace the steering bushing. I now have steering again. And I replaced the main transmission belt which was pretty easy. I did not move the engine, I just bent the tabs. Then bent them back
I just did this yesterday on my LTX1050. After removing the deck I jacked up one side of the mower and secured it with tie down straps to the rafters of the garage. That worked great. I didn't have to hang the clutch by a spring. I disconnected the cable pig tail connector then remove the bolt and pulled the clutch off of the drive. With my mower I didn't have to bend the tabs that are around the drive pulley because the pulley slides right off once you loosen the belt.
I am just starting this R and R project and already realize its a Royal Pain . Cub cadet really dropped the ball on this one! Oh well thanks for the video and all the tips I should be able to replace it now!
@@burkejones8277 Me too. I bought the mower because my wife (she is my 3rd) had one back when IH made Cubs, and she wanted one. I knew it was MTD junk. I now know how to fix anything on one because I have had to do it.
Thanks so much, Paul!! Nice when people like you take the time to post this helpful stuff. Played the video for my husband so we'll know tomorrow in the light of day if it all works out. He's pretty appreciative as well. (He's the mechanical guy, I'm the one who finds people like you on the net.) I'll write back tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
my hydro static clutch pulley there at the front. when i go to bolt it back on with the key way. the hydro static part spins which will rip my cable.. got the bolt very tight! looks like a little gap between top pulley and bottom pulley?
Awesome video! I have the 1517 I'm assuming it would be similar going to have to replace my drive belt here soon, this video will help a lot thank you very much!
I have Never had my butt handed to me until I changed out this belt! I Letterly had to pull the engine out slightly enough to get the old belt off and reinstall the new one.
Ok guys, To get the clutch off without having to use an impact wrench here is what I do. Place your ratchet and socket on the nut to remove. Apply pressure in the direction to remove the bolt, While holding the pressure, use a hammer to forcefully hit the ratchet handle in that direction. (Dont hit your hand though.) I have never had a bolt not come off with this method. Be sure you use good quality ratchet and socket because this will break the cheap ones. I mostly have Craftsman hand tools. I should have mentioned this is my video. Thanks for the comments folks.
Paul Roberts this method did not work for me. Not to mention it's bad for the ratchet gears. I used a breaker bar instead to no avail. But stuffing a cotton rope in the spark plug hole at least compression of engine worked great. Pittsburgh pap has great video demonstrating.
Make sure to put your electric clutch anchor slot into that metal bracket at the same time you slide it up onto the keyway. It keeps your clutch located. It may work on this one without doing that but on some will turn and break the wires.
What a great job you did on this Paul! Thanks so much for taking the time to walk us through a task that could be considered daunting, but you made it look about as easy as one could :) Thanks again! Excellent job and tutorial. Blessings to you
This was a big help, Paul, thanks for making it more doable. Sometimes I think this Cub Cadet was engineered to make sure no one tries to fix it themselves. I've got a 10 year old LTX1042 that my wife thinks I'm leaving her for !!!
What a job! I did it from underneath with the mower up on blocks. Yup woulda been easier tipped on side. That one bolt on electronic clutch spins with engine when you turn it. I Took the little plastic(four screws) cover off top of engine and jam a screwdriver or wrench to keep it from spinning. Those metal flanges that you bend away to get the belt to go on? Does anyone ever bend those back really? But really THANK YOU fer the video.
Thanks so much for making the video and sharing with us Paul!!! Getting ready to change this belt on my 1550 and they are probably very similar if not the same! W
You may have to use a wheel puller. I would try bumping the shaft and pulley with a hammer to jar it maybe this will help. If not, you can also try heat with a torch to the pully. This usually works.
I tried the puller. The metal the pulley is made form is soft and bends easy. Heat didn't help and I was afraid I would melt any oil seal if I kept heating. I just bent the tabs out of the way. This machine is 9 years old and doesn't owe me anything. Bending the tabs may not be the way the manual says to do it but if you are careful it does work.
I'm getting ready to do my brother in laws tomorrow morning. Got my Huskee blue belt, it's probably not the right one. His is newer than yours, but if I have to remove the electric clutch, I got it from this vid.
I have a 2009 LT1050 Briggs and Stratton 24hp Cub and I have to replace the drive belt and fan. The belt came off after 230 hours and it brought the fan with it :( I can't get the top pulley down but now that I've watched your video, I believe I can do it without having to take it to a shop. I never thought about bending those tab guards. Thanks!! That makes perfect sense. The shop closest to me said the pulleys freeze up and they cut them off with a torch. My dad asked if the engine could be unbolted and raised up to get to the top pulley. We figure you could, as long as the top hole is nit smaller because the shaft is, of course, the only thing coming from the top down... Who knows? Thanks again, for showing this.
when i try taking the bolt off for the electric transmissions all it does is spin the pully wheel. how do i make it stop spinning. its like it is trying to turn over the engine or something. i have the parking break on but i suspect that is not for this part of the drive system
Nice video. I see you used a Tractor Supply belt. It seems the OEM belt is 78 1/4" is that why you go with the 79" vs the 78" from Tractor Supply. Is the 79" a little loose? Do you think the 78" would be too small?
That is the way I did the first time I had to do it. If you get a puller and pull off the pulley on the motor it goes a lot faster, but, you have to beat the pulley back on with the right size socket so you don't mess it up, also the electric clutch unplugs very easy and you can move it completely out of your way. Those tabs was put there for 2 reasons, one to keep the belt on and 2 so you have to take it to a dealer to get the belt changed, as you probably know most belt guards are just bolt on. This is all just my opinion and not meant to be critical.
While I enjoyed and appreciated your video Paul, It was very helpful in getting me ready to change the motor out on my LT1024. For this job, tipping the tractor wasn't gonna work and I was going to have to remove motor mounting bolts anyways. Doing that was fairly simple and allowed the motor to slide around enough to get the belt off and back on without bending the tabs. Might as well just cut the old belt off if not going to need it any more. Also suggest that the clutch be unplugged, removed, and set out of the way. They can be easy to damage and (ouch!) expensive to replace
use an air ratchet or you can simulate an air ratchet by putting your wrench on the bolt and striking the wrench with a hammer. You have to hold pressure on wrench in the direction of the intended turn and then hit it with a hammer. That usually works for me.
I bought a rear fan pulley and I'm changing that out when I put the belt and fan on. Good idea since I'll be there already. The fan pulley on the rear can be accessed by removing my battery :) thanks again!
Thank you for the video. It helped a lot. T answer some questions in the chat... If the bold on the clutch spins take the cover off of the top of the mower (the part that spins). There are 4 screws 9/32?? Anyways, there are four of them. Take a 6 inch ratchet extension and stick it between those plastic blades and against that little metal piece on the side. That will let you break the clutch bolt loose. Also, instead of bending the tabs to put the belt on, unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the motor on. I think they are 13mm. There are four of them. Unscrew them, lift the motor up, them you can put the belt on. Your welcome!
I think you are saying there is no need to remove the steering column, right? I have an LT1046, but I think the drive is similar. I've looked up underneath, and thought that the belt encircled the steering column. I was prepared to remove the steering rod (steering wheel, rod). I think you are saying this is not necessary. Please confirm. You tipped your tractor on the side. With ramps in the front, and the rear wheels up on 6" blocks, there should be enough room to work( with deck removed) to get this installed. Am I right?
As far as getting the pulley bolt loose, you can simpky stick a screwdriver down through the fins at the top of the motor. More importantly, once the bolt is out, how does the pulley come off?
Hard doin it with one hand filming with the other...if ya used 2 hands you probably would have been done in a couple of minutes ...thks..very helpfull...worst part is taking deck off...putting deck on ...Haaa
Thanks Paul. As a retired auto technician we were taught that belts be in alignment. Without removing the body it's hard to use a straight edge. I found a nut used as a spacer under one pulley. Seems odd for a mower I bought new in 2006. Cub Cadet LT1042. I will try to line them up correctly.
Paul - much appreciated the video. Also, reading all the comments below helped me to figure out about getting the electrostatic clutch off. Getting the belt on the front pulley was a challenge - maybe next time I'll loosen the engine mount bolts - had not tried that but just used a lot of elbow grease after bending the belt stays. btw - I have a model LT1045 - looks identical.
I changed my Drive Belt on my Cub Cadet Your Video with step by step instructions was greatly helpful. My sound on my computer doesnt work but was still able to follow the video, Thanks for your help
thanks so much. fine video, great shots of what needs to be done. Exactly what I found. However, my tensioner pulley seems to tension extremely tight PLUS it slaps around something awful. I can find no way to make it stop slapping and vibrating violently...all hardware & bolts seems to be tight. It shredded the new drive belt in just 6 months.
Really appreciate the help, I suppose my tension spring disappeared and belt came off respectively, I'm sure I can find a spring fit for the job in the garage somewhere, thanks again you really solved my problem
Thanks for the video, it really helped. I have a LTX1050 with 36 hours on it and broke the drive belt. I decided to drop the steering plate by disconnecting the tie rods, removed the bolt and gear from the steering shaft then 4 bolts and that plate can be removed giving complete access to the front pulley. I also got lucky with the front pulley, I was able to slide the pulley down the shaft by hand which allowed the belt to go right on then slid it back into place.
Hi Paul, hey guys. I got the bolt out from the clutch assy, but I am having a heck of a time trying to pull the clutch assy off the shaft. I sprayed it with wd-40 today with the hope it will loosen it...happy to hear any suggestions you might have...thanks
Mine fell off. Luckily I caught it. One thing i can say is you cannot disconnect the clutch wire electrical connector with one hand while holding a 10lb clutch in the other.
LT1045 newer model comes with a disconnect junction which means it is not necessary to hang the clutch assembly. I had a look at the drive pulley and it looked like removing it would be a problem, signs of rust, so I opted to bend the tabs. Looks like it will still be a tight fit putting the new one on. It looks like "Loktite" may have been used on the pulley bolt. Thanks, the video saved me some time for sure.
Hi there, I have a 1554 cub cadet and I wanted to thank you for your video. Like most it just stopped going one day. I went to TH-cam and saw your post. I'm a 52 year old woman and although I'm pretty handy, I never thought I would be able to do this. It took me about 5 hrs, I also sharpened the blades and cleaned the mow deck. Thanks again for a great explanation! Naomi C.
Paul, thanks for the video. I have a 1527 and the idler pulley needs replaced. The bracket is attached to the mower instead of the deck. It's very loose. Is that correct.
Good video however, make sure to shut off the gas, flow to the carburetor before turning it up as shown. I just lost 1 1/2 gallons of gas when i was finished and turned it upright again.
I have a LT 1042. I replaced my drive belt and everything ran great for a week then it just stopped again. I think the spring that holds the tension the pulley is missing.
Try adding some penetrating lubricant to the clutch mating surface. (Let it sit over night.) Tap with a hammer. May have to use a wheel puller if all else fails. I would not use a torch because it may dammage the clutch.
Great job breaking things down on this Drive belt install. I have a LTX 1040 and have replaced the Mower belt last year and should have just replaced both belts while it was apart. Thank you again
This is so helpful. Thank you!! Cub Cadet makes it sound as though you havta dismantle the machine. I have a Cub 1550 but hopefully this would work with it. Does it matter which side of the mower is raised? Again thank you!
Thanks for this! The belt on my 1525 (2003 model) finally broke (in 2021) and this was exactly what I needed to get it done! Two things held me up that I will mention in case anyone else is needing to replace the belt on their old mower. First, when trying to unscrew the clutch bolt, it just turns the engine instead so you need to do something to stop the engine from turning. What worked for me was a suggestion from several others...remove the spark plug and insert a piece of rope into the top of the cylinder. When the piston comes to the top it will hit the rope and safely stop the engine (and the clutch bolt) from turning. Crude, but it works! Second, those metal tabs that keep the belt from slipping off the engine pulley, have to be bent out of the way in order to replace the belt (my belt broke so removal wasn't necessary). What worked for me was a pair of pointed vise grips. You have to work a little at a time because the vise grips will hit surrounding parts and not allow you to bend it in one go. Installing the belt is the easy part once you have this part figured out!
the one thing I've noticed was that the drive belt will slightly rub against the steering shaft. all pullies are in good shape as well as tensioner springs. I thought maybe this might be one reason drive don't last as long as it should. looks as if cubcadet could have easily added a small pulley in that area to prevent drive belt from ever rubbing against steering shaft. but as I said the belt barley rubs against shaft leaving a shiny area on steering shsft. as far as letting clutch hang, just unplug it, it'll save probloms with pulled wires later on. It's no picnic replacing the drivebelt but after doing it a few times, you'll soon learn a few tricks and shortcults along the way.
I have model Lt1554 and it looks like the steering shaft is in the way. Did you have to take the bolt out of the steering shaft and raise it up to get the belt thru?
Great video, very helpful. I found that I did not have to bend the tabs out, I was able to slide the pulley Down enough to get the new belt on. With the deck off Iwas able to do the job in about thirty minutes, and another twenty to put the deck back on. Thank You.
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Ughhh took me 40min.electric Impact gun on the clutch bolt saved me from turning over motor with regular wrench. Tipped tractor over and gas spilled out one way and the other way oil poured out of the valve cover . What a pain in the ass to put the spring back on the the tension pully. Wasn’t a horrible job but it saved me a few hundred dollars. TH-cam mechanic ftw thanks
Bought a used ltx1050 an am getting a education on wornout oullys. only had the 2 tensioner pullys on the driive belt system. missing the 3rd idler pully,somehow it worked .Belt jumped off, need the third vidlerpully.Goin shopping .Yhanks 6 da vid,saved me time.
Good job. I loved your video. I’m heading out to change mine. Thanks for your video.
I watched several videos before finding this. You explain it the best of all the other videos I have seen. So you are the only one who gets a like from me. Thanks.
The engine drive pulley should slide down the shaft easily, This will eliminate the need for bending the tabs that keep the belt on the pulley once it is replaced.
DAMN!! Thank you! It most certainly does! A little cleaning, a little silicon spray, and mine slipped right off!!
Thanks this video helped me replace my drive belt on my 2006 Series 1500 Cub C. A tip I would add is to take off one of the front wheels. They are just held on with a cotter pin, easy to take off and then this gives better access to the clutch and belt area.
Bending those belt stays out of the way can be a real bitch. I did it but it was rough. There's not much surface to grab hold of. I also used a hammer and a big punch that is flat on both ends. When I got done I used a giant pair of channel lock pliers to bend them back. I also had to remove all four engine mount bolts so I could move the engine around a tiny bit. What a pain in the ass just to replace a belt.
Good tip on the blunt punch. I just did that same method on mine. I tried to slide the pulley down a bit but it was frozen with 9 years of gunk. 3 Hours to change a belt? Mostly laying there trying to figure out how I was going to do it. I said to my wife who came down to the shop to see if I was still alive, "This mower was not designed to repair". I bet you agree. I finally just bent the retainer tabs out, put on the belt, bent them back. I'm happy to see others came to the same conclusion. Mowin' agin....
This is the BEST and most useful video on this (that I've found thus far).
I have searched 12 other videos, and those videos were not helpful at all....they were mostly worthless.
This video actually gave me a GREAT idea of what to expect.
So, THANK YOU for this information! Now I can begin my attempt at repair. 🤞
Thank you for your kind comment. Above all else I am glad to help someone in need!
Great explanation 👌
Best one of these I have seen. Good explanation and camera work.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video Paul. Being a women that is 65 years old I probably can't do this. Although I know I could of 20 years ago. I just wanted to know what it took to get ER done. Also being a women I try to learn as much as I can about the problem I am having before taking it into the shop so They don't try to pull the wool over my eyes and cost me more! At least if I know a little something about it they might think twice to try to charge me more then they should. Thanks again for the demo!
Just went out and could reach my hand up in there and drag out the broken drive belt. Thanks again :)
+Barb Brooks Glad I was able to help you Barb.
Paul, Do your pulleys line up straight? Mine appears that the rear smaller pulley sets closer to the frame than the one on the tension bracket causing a slight offset.
+picker63028 I think mine are aligned.
What Cub was this? Why do guys not mention this? They've made them for decades with multiple different models and engines and transmissions and...
Ok, he mentions that at the very end... 🤦. Thanks for the great info otherwise.
So tonight I replace the steering bushing. I now have steering again. And I replaced the main transmission belt which was pretty easy. I did not move the engine, I just bent the tabs. Then bent them back
I just did this yesterday on my LTX1050. After removing the deck I jacked up one side of the mower and secured it with tie down straps to the rafters of the garage. That worked great. I didn't have to hang the clutch by a spring. I disconnected the cable pig tail connector then remove the bolt and pulled the clutch off of the drive. With my mower I didn't have to bend the tabs that are around the drive pulley because the pulley slides right off once you loosen the belt.
Thanks for the comment Donald
Awesome Video !!!! Thank you so much... I'm getting ready to do a Cub lt1042 and this video just helped me prepare for the job... (THUMBS UP)
I am just starting this R and R project and already realize its a Royal Pain . Cub cadet really dropped the ball on this one! Oh well thanks for the video and all the tips I should be able to replace it now!
Rodney: I don’t know if they ever really had control of the ball to begin with. I spend more time working on mine than cutting grass.
@@burkejones8277 Me too. I bought the mower because my wife (she is my 3rd) had one back when IH made Cubs, and she wanted one. I knew it was MTD junk. I now know how to fix anything on one because I have had to do it.
Very good video, I'll be doing the job shortly. while I'm under there, I'm replacing the steer shaft bearing.
My clutch bolt just spins and makes a pressure release sound wont come out please help
Thanks so much, Paul!! Nice when people like you take the time to post this helpful stuff. Played the video for my husband so we'll know tomorrow in the light of day if it all works out. He's pretty appreciative as well. (He's the mechanical guy, I'm the one who finds people like you on the net.) I'll write back tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Suzanne Oltmann Thank you Suzanne. I am pleased to help. Thank you for taking the time to build me up a little. You are a nice person.
This was very useful when our lt1050's dry-rotted belt finally gave up. Would have had no clue what to do. Thanks!
my hydro static clutch pulley there at the front. when i go to bolt it back on with the key way. the hydro static part spins which will rip my cable.. got the bolt very tight! looks like a little gap between top pulley and bottom pulley?
Thanks....lots of good info....only I won't be tilting the mower on it's side. It doesn't look like too bad of a job working from underneath...
Awesome video! I have the 1517 I'm assuming it would be similar going to have to replace my drive belt here soon, this video will help a lot thank you very much!
Totally useless. How do you connect the tension spring back? You just skipped it.
Paul, I got it done. Thanks for this video and for the additional comment on how to get the clutch off.
PTO BOLT 'HAS' TO BE TORQUED.. BUT TO WHAT FT. LBS.?
I turned the bolt holding the clutch on and the the pulley just turns and the bolt isn't coming out
I have Never had my butt handed to me until I changed out this belt!
I Letterly had to pull the engine out slightly enough to get the old belt off and reinstall the new one.
Thank you so much we have been searching and searching for instructions on this job. You did a great job on the explaining and videoing of it.
How do you keep the clutch stationary to remove it? Whenever I try to loosen bolt the motor turns. Please and thank you.
Use an impact driver.
Don't have one
Ok guys, To get the clutch off without having to use an impact wrench here is what I do.
Place your ratchet and socket on the nut to remove. Apply pressure in the direction to remove the bolt, While holding the pressure, use a hammer to forcefully hit the ratchet handle in that direction. (Dont hit your hand though.) I have never had a bolt not come off with this method. Be sure you use good quality ratchet and socket because this will break the cheap ones. I mostly have Craftsman hand tools. I should have mentioned this is my video. Thanks for the comments folks.
Paul Roberts this method did not work for me. Not to mention it's bad for the ratchet gears. I used a breaker bar instead to no avail. But stuffing a cotton rope in the spark plug hole at least compression of engine worked great. Pittsburgh pap has great video demonstrating.
Make sure to put your electric clutch anchor slot into that metal bracket at the same time you slide it up onto the keyway. It keeps your clutch located. It may work on this one without doing that but on some will turn and break the wires.
This is what I'm having problem with. The electric cluck moves every time I start the lawnmower. I cant believe how much a pain in this ass this is.
Thanks Paul. I think mine just broke. Not sure I want to do all that. But I'm going back to look at my Cub Cadet to see the problem. Thanks.
Pete Linster You are welcome
What a great job you did on this Paul! Thanks so much for taking the time to walk us through a task that could be considered daunting, but you made it look about as easy as one could :) Thanks again! Excellent job and tutorial. Blessings to you
Thank You!
This was a big help, Paul, thanks for making it more doable. Sometimes I think this Cub Cadet was engineered to make sure no one tries to fix it themselves. I've got a 10 year old LTX1042 that my wife thinks I'm leaving her for !!!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, very helpful!
The arm that has the pin on it with the hole in it is there a spring that goes there?
What a job! I did it from underneath with the mower up on blocks. Yup woulda been easier tipped on side. That one bolt on electronic clutch spins with engine when you turn it. I Took the little plastic(four screws) cover off top of engine and jam a screwdriver or wrench to keep it from spinning. Those metal flanges that you bend away to get the belt to go on? Does anyone ever bend those back really? But really THANK YOU fer the video.
No i left mine no problems
Thanks so much for making the video and sharing with us Paul!!! Getting ready to change this belt on my 1550 and they are probably very similar if not the same! W
+Walt G Your welcome. Glad to help.
Thank You for taking the time and effort to put this video on! My brother's belt broke and we didn't know where to start.
You may have to use a wheel puller. I would try bumping the shaft and pulley with a hammer to jar it maybe this will help. If not, you can also try heat with a torch to the pully. This usually works.
I tried the puller. The metal the pulley is made form is soft and bends easy. Heat didn't help and I was afraid I would melt any oil seal if I kept heating. I just bent the tabs out of the way. This machine is 9 years old and doesn't owe me anything. Bending the tabs may not be the way the manual says to do it but if you are careful it does work.
fit craftsman lawn tractor
I'm getting ready to do my brother in laws tomorrow morning. Got my Huskee blue belt, it's probably not the right one. His is newer than yours, but if I have to remove the electric clutch, I got it from this vid.
Paul ,Thank you for taking the time to make this . I would have not even thought to take the cluch off. AWESOME!!!
Jim Ross Thanks you for the kind comment Jim.
how to rebuild the carburetor
I have a 2009 LT1050 Briggs and Stratton 24hp Cub and I have to replace the drive belt and fan. The belt came off after 230 hours and it brought the fan with it :(
I can't get the top pulley down but now that I've watched your video, I believe I can do it without having to take it to a shop. I never thought about bending those tab guards.
Thanks!! That makes perfect sense.
The shop closest to me said the pulleys freeze up and they cut them off with a torch. My dad asked if the engine could be unbolted and raised up to get to the top pulley. We figure you could, as long as the top hole is nit smaller because the shaft is, of course, the only thing coming from the top down...
Who knows? Thanks again, for showing this.
Great video thanks for the help!!
when i try taking the bolt off for the electric transmissions all it does is spin the pully wheel. how do i make it stop spinning. its like it is trying to turn over the engine or something. i have the parking break on but i suspect that is not for this part of the drive system
If you don’t have access to an impact wrench you can use a hammer to swiftly hit your wrench that is fitted to the bolt head. That also works
Nice video. I see you used a Tractor Supply belt. It seems the OEM belt is 78 1/4"
is that why you go with the 79" vs the 78" from Tractor Supply. Is the 79" a little loose? Do you think the 78" would be too small?
That is the way I did the first time I had to do it. If you get a puller and pull off the pulley on the motor it goes a lot faster, but, you have to beat the pulley back on with the right size socket so you don't mess it up, also the electric clutch unplugs very easy and you can move it completely out of your way. Those tabs was put there for 2 reasons, one to keep the belt on and 2 so you have to take it to a dealer to get the belt changed, as you probably know most belt guards are just bolt on. This is all just my opinion and not meant to be critical.
Thanks for your input Marty.
no problem
While I enjoyed and appreciated your video Paul, It was very helpful in getting me ready to change the motor out on my LT1024. For this job, tipping the tractor wasn't gonna work and I was going to have to remove motor mounting bolts anyways. Doing that was fairly simple and allowed the motor to slide around enough to get the belt off and back on without bending the tabs. Might as well just cut the old belt off if not going to need it any more. Also suggest that the clutch be unplugged, removed, and set out of the way. They can be easy to damage and (ouch!) expensive to replace
How do you stop the motor from turning over while taking the clutch pully bolt out?
use an air ratchet or you can simulate an air ratchet by putting your wrench on the bolt and striking the wrench with a hammer. You have to hold pressure on wrench in the direction of the intended turn and then hit it with a hammer. That usually works for me.
I bought a rear fan pulley and I'm changing that out when I put the belt and fan on. Good idea since I'll be there already. The fan pulley on the rear can be accessed by removing my battery :) thanks again!
Great video, much appreciated!! THANK YOU!!
Thank you for the video. It helped a lot. T answer some questions in the chat... If the bold on the clutch spins take the cover off of the top of the mower (the part that spins). There are 4 screws 9/32?? Anyways, there are four of them. Take a 6 inch ratchet extension and stick it between those plastic blades and against that little metal piece on the side. That will let you break the clutch bolt loose.
Also, instead of bending the tabs to put the belt on, unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the motor on. I think they are 13mm. There are four of them. Unscrew them, lift the motor up, them you can put the belt on. Your welcome!
I think you are saying there is no need to remove the steering column, right? I have an LT1046, but I think the drive is similar. I've looked up underneath, and thought that the belt encircled the steering column. I was prepared to remove the steering rod (steering wheel, rod). I think you are saying this is not necessary. Please confirm.
You tipped your tractor on the side. With ramps in the front, and the rear wheels up on 6" blocks, there should be enough room to work( with deck removed) to get this installed. Am I right?
As far as getting the pulley bolt loose, you can simpky stick a screwdriver down through the fins at the top of the motor. More importantly, once the bolt is out, how does the pulley come off?
Thank you BIG-TIME. Loved the idea of leaning it.....so much easier.
Hard doin it with one hand filming with the other...if ya used 2 hands you probably would have been done in a couple of minutes ...thks..very helpfull...worst part is taking deck off...putting deck on ...Haaa
looking for help on a 2001 cub cadet 3184 mower belt configuration for a 44 inch cut with shaft drive. a picture would be awesome. Thank u
Thanks Paul. As a retired auto technician we were taught that belts be in alignment. Without removing the body it's hard to use a straight edge. I found a nut used as a spacer under one pulley. Seems odd for a mower I bought new in 2006. Cub Cadet LT1042. I will try to line them up correctly.
Paul - much appreciated the video. Also, reading all the comments below helped me to figure out about getting the electrostatic clutch off. Getting the belt on the front pulley was a challenge - maybe next time I'll loosen the engine mount bolts - had not tried that but just used a lot of elbow grease after bending the belt stays. btw - I have a model LT1045 - looks identical.
I changed my Drive Belt on my Cub Cadet Your Video with step by step instructions was greatly helpful. My sound on my computer doesnt work but was still able to follow the video, Thanks for your help
thanks so much. fine video, great shots of what needs to be done. Exactly what I found. However, my tensioner pulley seems to tension extremely tight PLUS it slaps around something awful. I can find no way to make it stop slapping and vibrating violently...all hardware & bolts seems to be tight. It shredded the new drive belt in just 6 months.
Thank you for showing us.
Thank you so very much!!!!!!! My husband needed this.... we appreciate you taking time to share your expertise!!!!!!!
I do think you saved me a lot of time and headache.. Thanks.. Good video.
Really appreciate the help, I suppose my tension spring disappeared and belt came off respectively, I'm sure I can find a spring fit for the job in the garage somewhere, thanks again you really solved my problem
My Cub Cadet has a drive shaft. There are 3 belts on it mower,generator/alternator and pto.
No kid'n. Its not as easy as he made it look. Thanks for missing that tiny bit of useful information
Great job. One handed no less. Thanks for the help.
thanks for the video. I should be able to do this quicker after watching the video .Thanks again.
Thanks for the video, it really helped. I have a LTX1050 with 36 hours on it and broke the drive belt. I decided to drop the steering plate by disconnecting the tie rods, removed the bolt and gear from the steering shaft then 4 bolts and that plate can be removed giving complete access to the front pulley. I also got lucky with the front pulley, I was able to slide the pulley down the shaft by hand which allowed the belt to go right on then slid it back into place.
Can somebody please tell me how to get the pulley off! The whole thing just spins.
Thank you awesome
Thanks Ricky! Glad to help
Awesome job with the video and explaining in simple detail this belt replacement. Thanks for the reference!
Thanks for your kind comment Ronnie. Glad to help.
This was great, thanks for the video. I will changing mine soon its a 1525 model but looks the same.
Hi Paul, hey guys. I got the bolt out from the clutch assy, but I am having a heck of a time trying to pull the clutch assy off the shaft. I sprayed it with wd-40 today with the hope it will loosen it...happy to hear any suggestions you might have...thanks
Mine fell off. Luckily I caught it. One thing i can say is you cannot disconnect the clutch wire electrical connector with one hand while holding a 10lb clutch in the other.
LT1045 newer model comes with a disconnect junction which means it is not necessary to hang the clutch assembly. I had a look at the drive pulley and it looked like removing it would be a problem, signs of rust, so I opted to bend the tabs. Looks like it will still be a tight fit putting the new one on. It looks like "Loktite" may have been used on the pulley bolt. Thanks, the video saved me some time for sure.
Lee Wainwright Your welcome Lee. Glad to actually help someone.
TY Bro Paul this video will save lots of time and hassle thanks again :)
Hi there, I have a 1554 cub cadet and I wanted to thank you for your video. Like most it just stopped going one day. I went to TH-cam and saw your post. I'm a 52 year old woman and although I'm pretty handy, I never thought I would be able to do this. It took me about 5 hrs, I also sharpened the blades and cleaned the mow deck. Thanks again for a great explanation!
Naomi C.
Glad it helped
Paul, thanks for the video. I have a 1527 and the idler pulley needs replaced. The bracket is attached to the mower instead of the deck. It's very loose. Is that correct.
Very Loose? Im not sure about it being very loose.
If I was wanting to do the same thing to a Cub Cadet model 187347, is everything pretty much in the same spot?
If you bend your neck and look under your machine you will be able to see if your Cub Cadet is like Paul's.
My cub cadet was newer but you directions help perfect.
Good video however, make sure to shut off the gas, flow to the carburetor before turning it up as shown. I just lost 1 1/2 gallons of gas when i was finished and turned it upright again.
Nice Point. Thanks
I have a LT 1042. I replaced my drive belt and everything ran great for a week then it just stopped again. I think the spring that holds the tension the pulley is missing.
that could be a problem. the spring applies the pressure
Thanks Paul. I got the bolt out, but the clutch assy wont come off the shaft...happy to hear your suggestions...thanks :)
Try adding some penetrating lubricant to the clutch mating surface. (Let it sit over night.) Tap with a hammer. May have to use a wheel puller if all else fails. I would not use a torch because it may dammage the clutch.
Feb.13 I would like to thank you for your video. You showed me some short cuts and safety ideas.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job breaking things down on this Drive belt install. I have a LTX 1040 and have replaced the Mower belt last year and should have just replaced both belts while it was apart. Thank you again
Thank you for your kind comment
This is so helpful. Thank you!!
Cub Cadet makes it sound as though you havta dismantle the machine.
I have a Cub 1550 but hopefully this would work with it.
Does it matter which side of the mower is raised?
Again thank you!
Your welcome trigger
Thanks for this! The belt on my 1525 (2003 model) finally broke (in 2021) and this was exactly what I needed to get it done!
Two things held me up that I will mention in case anyone else is needing to replace the belt on their old mower. First, when trying to unscrew the clutch bolt, it just turns the engine instead so you need to do something to stop the engine from turning. What worked for me was a suggestion from several others...remove the spark plug and insert a piece of rope into the top of the cylinder. When the piston comes to the top it will hit the rope and safely stop the engine (and the clutch bolt) from turning. Crude, but it works!
Second, those metal tabs that keep the belt from slipping off the engine pulley, have to be bent out of the way in order to replace the belt (my belt broke so removal wasn't necessary). What worked for me was a pair of pointed vise grips. You have to work a little at a time because the vise grips will hit surrounding parts and not allow you to bend it in one go. Installing the belt is the easy part once you have this part figured out!
Thanks for the comment. Glad it help you
Great videos. Only thing I can't see anywhere is which way to undo the bolt on the pulley. I think it us anti clockwise.
Righty tightey, lefty loosey.
the belt that engages the blades
the one thing I've noticed was that the drive belt will slightly rub against the steering shaft. all pullies are in good shape as well as tensioner springs. I thought maybe this might be one reason drive don't last as long as it should. looks as if cubcadet could have easily added a small pulley in that area to prevent drive belt from ever rubbing against steering shaft. but as I said the belt barley rubs against shaft leaving a shiny area on steering shsft. as far as letting clutch hang, just unplug it, it'll save probloms with pulled wires later on. It's no picnic replacing the drivebelt but after doing it a few times, you'll soon learn a few tricks and shortcults along the way.
Your right Richard. The more you do it the easier it is.
YeSir...
I have model Lt1554 and it looks like the steering shaft is in the way. Did you have to take the bolt out of the steering shaft and raise it up to get the belt thru?
No I dont remember removing the steering shsft.
Thanks so much. Helped me out a lot. Can't find a good diagram anywhere.
Did you get a new tensioner pulley
Great video. Thanks! Took me no time at all to replace my drive belt.
how much is the belt
Great job. With the video do Thanks for the information. It was a big help. Donald
link0192 Your welcome. Thanks for your comment
Great video, very helpful. I found that I did not have to bend the tabs out, I was able to slide the pulley Down enough to get the new belt on. With the deck off Iwas able to do the job in about thirty minutes, and another twenty to put the deck back on. Thank You.
Thanks for the comment Robert