Some people are getting confused on calling it a "defogger". What about countries that don't get snow and just have foggy windows. Also food for thought www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-rear-window-defoggerelectrically-conductive-tab-adhesive/?locale=en
I didn't even get as far as testing the fuses - your tip about everything being in series and the "fingers" on the sliding window told me everything I needed to know. I opened and closed the window about a dozen times and it started working. I'll look at pulling it apart and cleaning the contacts properly, but you got me moving in the right direction. Thanks!
Hello. Anthony. Your soluction works ok..! Thanks. But I realized that in the middle of the yellow wire there is a resistance, cover by a black retractable seal. So wen I replaced the resistance every thing started works again, and without the "bridge". I hope this would be helpful. I've a 2013 F-150. Bye..!
Anthony, I really appreciate your video and post. I was able to pull the cover off of the wires today and visualize everything you showed in your video. I have not yet shorted the wires like you showed in the video. There appears to be some conflicting information with regard to whether the rear defrost continues to work once you short the wires. Can you confirm that the rear defrost is supposed to work in addition to the mirror defrosters? Thank you again for this awesome post. I certainly don't want to replace a $1K+ window if I can do this cheaper fix.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it. Did he install the voltage reducer or just use the fuse short that you showed in the video? Again, I appreciate the assist. This post was very, very helpful.
I have a 2012 FX4 w/ motorized slider, long out of warranty. The defroster just stopped working this winter- I guess I'm one of the lucky ones to have mine last so long. Mirrors heat up just fine, but the indicator light doesn't come on anymore. After watching your video, I was able to get the light to come on with a simple alligator-clip jumper between the two terminals on the passenger side. However, after reviewing countless instances of a shattering window, I'm thinking that I'd be better off living without the rear defroster. The likely consequences of forcing it to work are far too expensive for my wallet. Kinda sucks because I live in MN. I haven't been able to find any other site that offers a fix other than replacing the glass. Can I assume that this failure is NOT due to a broken heat trace, but is something proprietary along the edge of the glass, meaning that it can't be fixed properly? Has there been any sort of recall where I can get this fixed at someone else's expense?
You'll have to check for the recall. It is possible you might have a power delivery issue like we did in the video and you will have to do the same repair we did.
@AnthonyJ350 - I want to give you a shout out for posting this. Four years later, and it’s still helping people I checked all the fuses and the jumping technique did the trick big thanks!
I watched this whole thing and I can't figure out what the hell you did. You looked at connectors and took some voltage measurements but what did you change to get it to work again?
Jumping the yellow and black with a 7.5 amp fuse worked like a champ for both the rear mirror defog/frost and the rear window defog/defrost. Thanks! Did not investigate the 5 volt step down or investigate the finger contacts and simply ran with the jumper right out the gate on my 2014 raptor. That box end technique to recline the back seat is the best! Found a video where someone drilled the release post and installed a pull ring and strap. Will ate,pt to drill the post and do the same for continued easy access to the minimal back storage. Thanks again.
@@AnthonyJ350 been living with this in SE Alaska for 5+ years. Finally took the time just in time for fall. Drilled out the pull posts and installed a draw cord too. Productive morning thus far. Easy fixes, way cheaper than a new truck.
Hi Anthony, I have a 2015 and the contact box that attaches to the sliding center piece came off. I found some auto glass adhesive for the plastic box, but I'm not sure what the best way is to reattach the copper contacts to what ever kind of metal is on the glass. Can you recommend anything?
@@JensenStark-y9m You just need a conductive adhesive from the auto parts store and glue it back on if noone wants to fix it. Unfortunately a lot of shops are replace only now. Maybe due to liability?
@@andrestepec88 no problem, I just meant I didn’t have my rear middle slider Window all the way in the closed position. I had the issue where the defrost wouldn’t work and as soon as I closed it all the way with the slider switch near the sunroof switch, the defrost started working. Even though it was just barely not closed, It won’t let you turn it on unless that rear window is fully closed. Hope that helps
@@AnthonyJ350 I havnt yet but I can see where several.runs are broken and there are lots to repair the electrical runs in the window I intend to attempt a repair. Should I keep the fuzes jumper in?
Hey Anthony how do I install the 12v to 5v metra part. I just got it. There’s 3 wires on it so want to make sure I’m installing it correctly to white line. Please help???? Thanks Anthony
Here's a strange one, when I press rear defrost button, the led button light doesn't turn on, but the rear camera view pops up on the display. Hit the button again and the camera turns off. 2011 Raptor. I'm 3rd owner... I wonder if someone changed the wiring on purpose?
Mine stopped working too.. Fuses are good.. I suspect that the contact sensor is bad which requires a center window replacement.. It is clear that Ford didn't design this system too good..
I tried the 5V product and I can’t seem to get it to work. I tried the direct jumper and it worked perfectly. Could you give instructions on how you wired the 5V to get it to work? Thanks!
Why do you think this needs to be taken down to 5 volts? Using ohms law the voltage is 14 and the fuse for the heated mirrors is 15 amps. That works one to 1 ohm of resistance
I have a 2014 f150 limited my rear window defrost would light-up for a second then go off. I opened and closed the rear sliding window 4 to 5 times allowing 5 or so seconds in between and tried it. It stayed on. Oh my!
@@AnthonyJ350 I am having the same problem. I Press the Rear Defrost button. It will light for a second then go out. The mirrors will heat. No heat at the rear window. Checked fuses all good. Ive open and closed the rear window multiple times. No luck. This may be dirty contacts? How did you remove the cover for the finger contacts? Is there a way to do it without breaking it? You skipped this step in the video, it would be helpful to see how it goes together, maybe there is a tab that can be pressed to remove it?
Did you use any type if adhesive to reinstall the contacts for the sliding glass? Mine fell off and is obviously my problem. Bought some conducive adhesive to try on it. Haven’t reinstalled it yet.
I can confirm that if you press the rear defrost button once and the light doesn't go on, the mirrors still heat up. It also sends the 12v back to the hot wire, but nothing to the yellow.
Thanks for the vid! I've been searching for something on this for a while. Most people of the forums suggested to take it in to the dealer. I'm going to check everything now. I had a feeling my mirrors work still, though. I also had a rear window shatter on me and had the whole thing replaced under warranty, when it it was still. Thanks again for the vid!
@@AnthonyJ350 I did not fix it yet, but I ran a laser temperature reader on my rear mirrors and They still work! I've had my rear shatter with the heating element getting too hot. So I'm not too worried about the rear window. The snow ends up clinging on to the back window when it's warm. I find it kinda pointless anyway.
It was the slider contacts for me. Ran the window open/close a few cycles. Switch glows orange. Thank you so very much. ~ ‘11 F150 Supercrew 6.5ft 3.5L Eco Lariat Package 122,462
Hi, so I did some more trouble shooting and I'm hoping you can help. I used to get about 0.6 ohms from one side of a piece of glass to another. Going from the driver side to the passenger side it was about 3 ohms. I bent the fingers to make the switch connection and now I'm getting 0 ohms all around. But, when I press the button, I now get 12v to the thicker wire and my mirrors hear up. But when I test the resistance on the glass it's about 35 ohms...??? Also, did you have voltage to the yellow wire before you spliced it? Thanks!!!
Hey - so it looks like you opted to not install the metra voltage reducer. Is it working well without it? Is that necessary or do you think just jumpering it over is adequate?
Do you hook up the RED WOLF voltage reducer in the same manner as your video? My understanding is that you had to connect in series to drop the 12 volts down to 5 volts.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the great diy video for this as it seems to be a common problem. I pried my cover piece and cleaned up all the metal contact fingers with a rotary tool, and straightened up the fingers as it appeared they weren’t all straight and uniform. My question though is what kind of contact adhesive should be used to re-adhere this piece so that it it is making electrical contact and NOT insulating this piece back to the window again...?
I have a 2014 f150 supercrew. The light on my rear defogger doesn’t light up when I press it but the mirror and sliding glass both still defrost. I thought maybe the light just burned out so I switched out the whole bezel with a new one and the light still doesn’t work when pressed. I like the light to be on so I will know when it’s on. Anyone else have this problem with theirs like this? I haven’t had the rear window shatter yet. Knock on wood.
Great video Anthony! My 2011 Ford Raptor came with a non-working rear defroster. I'm going to look at all of this stuff this weekend and try to get mine working too. Thank you!
My fiance had a window shatter because of the rear defroster grid so I called Ford they need more people to call them about the rear defroster grid so they could do a recall if they get enough calls in this is a big problem for the 2012 and for needs to fix it the Ford technician at my local Ford dealership said that this was a common problem with the 2012 f150 and the rear defroster grid
Right but we're talking about voltage going to devices where it might need to see a particular value before hand to work properly. Remember there is a switch, then module, then the window (and who knows how they engineered it and if it passes through other devices).
Ford has had problems on the rear defrosters. The first winter I had my 2013, my daughter pressed the button and the rear window on the passenger side shattered . Ford replaced it for free, but insisted they hadn't heard of any problems.
2010 Ford F-150 FX4. Rear defroster and heated mirrors do not work. Light on dash DOES illuminate and stays on though. Contacts fell off and reattached. Also light will continue to stay on even if power sliding glass is moved breaking contact. Light should go off when glass breaks contact. Quoted over $1000 from dealer to replace back glass. Any ideas before I replace back glass?? Also I’ve checked fuses. Did find a green fuse I think it’s 40amp under the hood burned. I replaced that but no luck. Thank you
Has anybody ben able to verify the 5 volt on yellow return wire on a WORKING window? I saw RWchugger installed reducer but light only stayed on for 1 second. Fyi super cab seats are tricky to remove.
Is this still working correctly on the original truck? No issues or new problems? And is he still using the "fuse jumper" or did he decide to go with the voltage step down kit?
This is looking like the second time I need to replace that back window. First time was under warranty. This time I am not so lucky. Since I am stuck I probably will risk taking apart those mechanical connectors because that is where I think this thing goes south...but I don't use that sliding window that much. Wonder if water is getting in there. Argh.
Has anyone ever used a thermacam (FLIR IR camera) rather than one of those spot temperature sensors to confirm proper heating? I don't need rear defrost, but I'd sure like to get my mirror heat back
@@AnthonyJ350 I ordered the AFDI-5V just need to know the correct wiring connection. I Got the black to black ground. which connects to the yellow? black/white or the Blue/red. Or do both of these connect to the yellow?
Mines showing a code in my launch scanner showing a b1c83-13 rear defrost relay. My button also does not light up. I check wiring and i press the bottom checked power. And i dont believe i have any power back there. So i think i may have a bad relay but i also unplugged it and check it with a volt meter. So im gonna get back there and mess with it some more. If its in series i assume it wont show anything without the plug being plugged together? If im correct.
@@AnthonyJ350 i have not. I do have a extended warranty with my truck. And i actually just got it three months ago. So im gonna see if the dealer will fix it first. If not then i will be trying out this fix. Especially because winter is coming. And i need my defrost to work, especially being in newyork where winters are rough and cold lol.
@@AnthonyJ350 will do, i did test the wiring and fuses yesterday. And the fuses all tested good and the relay. The wiring isnt showing any power that i saw. So im working if i have a wiring issue. Thats why i was asking about how you tested for power in the video. Because i have nothing there. Im gonna test one more time tomorrow. To make sure but with my power probe and some back probes. But i dont see so far whats causing the issues other then i have no power coming to the connector.
I wanted to ask if the rear window defroster is working now as well. I take it that it does but you didn’t show that it was heating up as you showed the temp. going up only on the side view mirrors. Mine quit working at the end of this winter and would like to try this than changing out the entire rear window as Ford dealerships say is the way to fix the problem. Thanks for the great video. Please let me know.
@@AnthonyJ350 is it glued on or a clip. If glued, what did you use to put it back on? I have same issue as everyone. Ford wanted $1800 to replace back window. Truck is a 2013 and we'll out of warranty but a great truck and has a lot of customs.
So did you install the voltage step down in this video, or just jumper it with a 7.5amp fuse? You talk about the step down, but it looks like just the jumper worked fine?
We just left the jumper in there. The truck is still around in a colder climate than where I live and everything still works I'm told. Just make sure you put that fuse inline.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you. I'm going to try this. I am a little concerned about a window break, I have a 18 month old little boy in a rear facing car seat😬
@@AnthonyJ350 So I've still been researching this.... it appears the jumper will bypass the switches (contacts) in the sliding window. So you will get a return voltage that illuminates the indicator as well as power the drivers side grid. I believe, based on this drawing ( www.f150forum.com/attachments/f12/400550d1446744571-2011-f-150-heated-mirror-rear-window-defrost-problems-heated-rear-window.jpg ) that the jumper will heat both passenger and drivers side rear windows, but not the sliding window. So, this fix won't fix everything, but it is certainly a better option than replacing the window.
Mine quit working. It was not the soldering to the window. Ford replaced the window the day after they received the window (2 months after they ordered the part). Apparently, that did not correct the issue like they thought. While I waited on the part, I verified the fuse and relay were good. They have now ordered another part, so I will let you know what it turned out to be once I get the truck back. Thanks for the explanation and walk through.
I have two questions. The step down harness from Ford has three wires, how would you go about connecting it. I also saw in comments that someone's window shattered do you think that's possible by using the stepdown harness. Just curious. Thanks for posting your video.
The shattering window is possible from what I've read. We tested this particular f150 and it was fine. There's 3 wires because one I'd 12v, one is Ground and the last one will be 5v. You'll have to consult the instruction manual for wire colour coding.
Hi Anthony, i have the same problem, when i press the button for turn on the system deffloger the ligth on de center console don`t work. I check all the fuse, but all is OK. I want to do the fix you show us ¿can you tell me if the fuse of 7.5 Amp its after or before the resistor in the yellow wire (in the back seat)? Thanks and grettings from Chile
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks Anthony, i asked because i see in your video the fuse connection (in the yellow wire) between the resistor and the "window". I Try in a few hours and tell you the results
Did you verify the resistance from contact to contact on the sliding glass? I wonder if you could solder a wire between points to ensure a constant short. I understand you'd lose the ability to open the glass but I never do anyways.
At 1:50 "Figure out a way to reattach it". What do you use to reattach the clips to the sliding part of the window? The cover and the clips seem to come off as one and the clips tear off the sliding window. Getting them back on is not as easy as it may seem. Any recommendations that work? Thanks
I actually found it was conducting epoxy. Bought a small amount and I glued on the two clips and everything works. I was able to put on the black cover. Probably should have made my own video.
Permatex calls it a "defogger" as well.. www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-rear-window-defoggerelectrically-conductive-tab-adhesive/?locale=en
The mirrors still work when the defrost in the window fails, the LED just doesn’t light up. All you did was make the LED turn on, the defrost is still broken
@@AnthonyJ350 Just going off your information it appears to me that the yellow line may be a check of the rear window's heating element, the resistance of which would cause a voltage drop. If the heating element is in place and not broken it would have a specific resistance and accompanying voltage drop. It may be that the yellow lead feeds a sensor telling the computer that the heating element is there and complete, not broken. If the circuit is broken then the computer wouldn't see any voltage, or if it's shorted (full voltage) that would be a fault as well. Not certain about any of that but it makes sense that Ford put in a check to see if the heating element was shorted or open and would kill power to the rear defrost in either case. It would be good to see a wiring diagram of the truck or get the info directly from Ford to confirm. Depending on the way the circuit is designed hacking it could lead to all sorts of problems like the heating element being on continuously and causing damage, or other issues. If you are going to bypass the heating element to get the side mirrors to work you may need to include a fake 'load' (that may be what the voltage drop indicates) to the sensors. Again, I've not looked at the wiring diagrams and this is all conjecture, but hack at your own risk without fully understanding the designed circuit.
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Some people are getting confused on calling it a "defogger". What about countries that don't get snow and just have foggy windows.
Also food for thought www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-rear-window-defoggerelectrically-conductive-tab-adhesive/?locale=en
I didn't even get as far as testing the fuses - your tip about everything being in series and the "fingers" on the sliding window told me everything I needed to know. I opened and closed the window about a dozen times and it started working. I'll look at pulling it apart and cleaning the contacts properly, but you got me moving in the right direction. Thanks!
Awesome, so glad to hear you got it working. Comments like this help so people can see a general direction in what the problem is.
Hello. Anthony. Your soluction works ok..! Thanks. But I realized that in the middle of the yellow wire there is a resistance, cover by a black retractable seal. So wen I replaced the resistance every thing started works again, and without the "bridge".
I hope this would be helpful. I've a 2013 F-150. Bye..!
Thanks for sharing your findings!
Will be checking my 2013 f150 have the same problem , mirror heat works no light and no defrost , thanks for video
Please let us know what you find after, thanks.
Thanks for the video!
Did your fix hold up?
As far as I know it is. I'm in contact with the owner still.
Anthony, I really appreciate your video and post. I was able to pull the cover off of the wires today and visualize everything you showed in your video. I have not yet shorted the wires like you showed in the video. There appears to be some conflicting information with regard to whether the rear defrost continues to work once you short the wires. Can you confirm that the rear defrost is supposed to work in addition to the mirror defrosters? Thank you again for this awesome post. I certainly don't want to replace a $1K+ window if I can do this cheaper fix.
I just confirmed it with the owner again. Everything is working well.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it. Did he install the voltage reducer or just use the fuse short that you showed in the video? Again, I appreciate the assist. This post was very, very helpful.
@@embreymitch His truck just has the short fuse.
AnthonyJ350 thank you. I am going to try the fix this weekend. Can you tell me the size of the short fuse used (amp of the fuse)? Thank you.
@@embreymitch small, it was like 7.5
Do you know that part number for the “latch” that you describe as the fingers making contact to complete the circuit
No sorry, don't know the part number off the top of my head.
I have a 2012 FX4 w/ motorized slider, long out of warranty. The defroster just stopped working this winter- I guess I'm one of the lucky ones to have mine last so long. Mirrors heat up just fine, but the indicator light doesn't come on anymore. After watching your video, I was able to get the light to come on with a simple alligator-clip jumper between the two terminals on the passenger side. However, after reviewing countless instances of a shattering window, I'm thinking that I'd be better off living without the rear defroster. The likely consequences of forcing it to work are far too expensive for my wallet. Kinda sucks because I live in MN. I haven't been able to find any other site that offers a fix other than replacing the glass. Can I assume that this failure is NOT due to a broken heat trace, but is something proprietary along the edge of the glass, meaning that it can't be fixed properly? Has there been any sort of recall where I can get this fixed at someone else's expense?
You'll have to check for the recall. It is possible you might have a power delivery issue like we did in the video and you will have to do the same repair we did.
@AnthonyJ350 - I want to give you a shout out for posting this. Four years later, and it’s still helping people I checked all the fuses and the jumping technique did the trick big thanks!
So glad to hear this video helped you! 🙂
I watched this whole thing and I can't figure out what the hell you did. You looked at connectors and took some voltage measurements but what did you change to get it to work again?
I jumped power to it with a fuse.
Does Ford have just the center slider, or you have to get the whole back window?
You'd have to ask someone in the parts department at the dealership.
Thank you very much for posting this! My slider was open just a small bit, but it was enough. Hit the switch to close it and everything works now!
Glad it was a simple fix for you!
Jumping the yellow and black with a 7.5 amp fuse worked like a champ for both the rear mirror defog/frost and the rear window defog/defrost. Thanks! Did not investigate the 5 volt step down or investigate the finger contacts and simply ran with the jumper right out the gate on my 2014 raptor. That box end technique to recline the back seat is the best! Found a video where someone drilled the release post and installed a pull ring and strap. Will ate,pt to drill the post and do the same for continued easy access to the minimal back storage. Thanks again.
Glad it worked. I know the truck from this video is still running around with the fix.
@@AnthonyJ350 been living with this in SE Alaska for 5+ years. Finally took the time just in time for fall. Drilled out the pull posts and installed a draw cord too. Productive morning thus far. Easy fixes, way cheaper than a new truck.
@@perrycarditi5 100% agree. Run your older vehicle for longer and keep more money or invest the money other place. Great job!
Hi Anthony, I have a 2015 and the contact box that attaches to the sliding center piece came off. I found some auto glass adhesive for the plastic box, but I'm not sure what the best way is to reattach the copper contacts to what ever kind of metal is on the glass. Can you recommend anything?
If you're not sure, a glass shop can easily fix it for .5 hr I'd assume. That would be the safest bet.
@@AnthonyJ350 okay cool I did call one already and they quoted me $900 to replace everything the glass included. I'll try a different shop
@@JensenStark-y9m They weren't willing to just glue the contact back on???
@@AnthonyJ350 no they would only replace everything! Which is why I'm looking for DIY. I will try calling some others though as you suggested.
@@JensenStark-y9m You just need a conductive adhesive from the auto parts store and glue it back on if noone wants to fix it. Unfortunately a lot of shops are replace only now. Maybe due to liability?
Thank you! It was my sliding window on my 13 ecoboost. Somehow wasn’t closed all the way. Super simple
Glad to hear it was an easy fix. Did you clean out and lubricate the track?
Can you explain better? I have a 2013 too with same problem.
@@andrestepec88 no problem, I just meant I didn’t have my rear middle slider Window all the way in the closed position. I had the issue where the defrost wouldn’t work and as soon as I closed it all the way with the slider switch near the sunroof switch, the defrost started working. Even though it was just barely not closed, It won’t let you turn it on unless that rear window is fully closed. Hope that helps
Can we keep.the fuzzed jumper in so the heated mirrors continue to work? What if we are able to.fix the rear window defogger? Should the jumper out?
How did you fix it?
@@AnthonyJ350 I havnt yet but I can see where several.runs are broken and there are lots to repair the electrical runs in the window I intend to attempt a repair. Should I keep the fuzes jumper in?
@@jerryrafeew1191 Remove the fuse and do your repairs. It's more back to factory then. If it doesn't work, put the fuse back in.
Hey Anthony how do I install the 12v to 5v metra part. I just got it. There’s 3 wires on it so want to make sure I’m installing it correctly to white line. Please help???? Thanks Anthony
What does the little paper inside the package say for wire colours and function?
Here's a strange one, when I press rear defrost button, the led button light doesn't turn on, but the rear camera view pops up on the display. Hit the button again and the camera turns off. 2011 Raptor. I'm 3rd owner... I wonder if someone changed the wiring on purpose?
That sounds really hard to do. Is there a camera button on the control panel?
Mine stopped working too.. Fuses are good.. I suspect that the contact sensor is bad which requires a center window replacement.. It is clear that Ford didn't design this system too good..
You can try this fix, it still works in the truck from the video.
I tried the 5V product and I can’t seem to get it to work. I tried the direct jumper and it worked perfectly. Could you give instructions on how you wired the 5V to get it to work? Thanks!
You would have to grab a 12+ trigger from the passenger kick fuse panel. How were you activating it?
Why do you think this needs to be taken down to 5 volts? Using ohms law the voltage is 14 and the fuse for the heated mirrors is 15 amps. That works one to 1 ohm of resistance
But is this the wire actually running the device or is it just an activation wire?
Do you think the mirrors run at 15 amps nominally? Or just when it spikes like on first start up?
I have a 2014 f150 limited my rear window defrost would light-up for a second then go off. I opened and closed the rear sliding window 4 to 5 times allowing 5 or so seconds in between and tried it. It stayed on. Oh my!
Awesome, so the contacts were just dirty?
@@AnthonyJ350 I am having the same problem. I Press the Rear Defrost button. It will light for a second then go out. The mirrors will heat. No heat at the rear window. Checked fuses all good. Ive open and closed the rear window multiple times. No luck. This may be dirty contacts? How did you remove the cover for the finger contacts? Is there a way to do it without breaking it? You skipped this step in the video, it would be helpful to see how it goes together, maybe there is a tab that can be pressed to remove it?
This only worked to get the switch light on and the side mirror defrosts for me.
Guess you'll need a new back window?
My hvac radio,heated seat heated seats center console panel stop working?
I would check all the fuses first.
Did you use any type if adhesive to reinstall the contacts for the sliding glass? Mine fell off and is obviously my problem. Bought some conducive adhesive to try on it. Haven’t reinstalled it yet.
I used a little bit of CA glue and 3M double sided tape. I really didn't like the design and how things were put together on these parts.
Brad, did that work? I'm having the same problem.
I'm not getting any volts to the yellow side of that plug. Any idea why?
Check all your fuses with a multimeter?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes, all the fuses are good. Did you have voltage at the yellow before you jumped them?
I can confirm that if you press the rear defrost button once and the light doesn't go on, the mirrors still heat up. It also sends the 12v back to the hot wire, but nothing to the yellow.
@@gdub14 That's the issue. That's why we jump the two wires the way we did in the video.
Thanks for the vid! I've been searching for something on this for a while. Most people of the forums suggested to take it in to the dealer. I'm going to check everything now. I had a feeling my mirrors work still, though. I also had a rear window shatter on me and had the whole thing replaced under warranty, when it it was still. Thanks again for the vid!
Were you able to do the fix and test it?
@@AnthonyJ350 I did not fix it yet, but I ran a laser temperature reader on my rear mirrors and They still work! I've had my rear shatter with the heating element getting too hot. So I'm not too worried about the rear window. The snow ends up clinging on to the back window when it's warm. I find it kinda pointless anyway.
Was the rear defroster working after this modification?
Yes it was, still is up till today.
It was the slider contacts for me. Ran the window open/close a few cycles. Switch glows orange. Thank you so very much. ~ ‘11 F150 Supercrew 6.5ft 3.5L Eco Lariat Package 122,462
You're welcome! Thanks for sharing your experience on this one, it helps others.
Hi, so I did some more trouble shooting and I'm hoping you can help. I used to get about 0.6 ohms from one side of a piece of glass to another. Going from the driver side to the passenger side it was about 3 ohms. I bent the fingers to make the switch connection and now I'm getting 0 ohms all around. But, when I press the button, I now get 12v to the thicker wire and my mirrors hear up. But when I test the resistance on the glass it's about 35 ohms...??? Also, did you have voltage to the yellow wire before you spliced it? Thanks!!!
Did you defrost start to work after you bent the connection?
At 2:14 you show the contacts removed from the window but what did you use that worked to reattach them?
You can use a conductive adhesive from your local auto parts store.
@@AnthonyJ350 can you give me some more details on how you did that? Mine got ripped of by my little cousin.
@@atticusjohnson1234 There's adhesive you can get at your auto parts store
Hey - so it looks like you opted to not install the metra voltage reducer. Is it working well without it? Is that necessary or do you think just jumpering it over is adequate?
I'm in contact with the owner and it's still working. I think the Metra piece is better to get the voltage down.
The other question - is the rear fogger fixed from this or only the mirrors?
1200 bucks for a fucking window , the most common vehicle in North America and Ford has the balls to charge what they do for parts ...bastards
Or you can try the fix in the video
Man you're gonna help me with my ford too ahahaha
I hope this video does. It worked for us and we're still collecting feedback for this one. So far so good.
I have this video as well for these trucks th-cam.com/video/mzYXtwE-9o4/w-d-xo.html
Do you hook up the RED WOLF voltage reducer in the same manner as your video?
My understanding is that you had to connect in series to drop the 12 volts down to 5 volts.
Yes you want to try to step it down to 5 and test.
How do you get that faceplate/cover off the contacts on the rear slider
Had to pry them off.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the great diy video for this as it seems to be a common problem. I pried my cover piece and cleaned up all the metal contact fingers with a rotary tool, and straightened up the fingers as it appeared they weren’t all straight and uniform. My question though is what kind of contact adhesive should be used to re-adhere this piece so that it it is making electrical contact and NOT insulating this piece back to the window again...?
Mine started to work again after I replaced the Rear window. It is covered under insurance
That's good
What type of insurance?
@@andrewp.619 Allstate. I happen to have had my back window crack and used insurance to replace the window. after that it started to work again
I have a 2014 f150 supercrew. The light on my rear defogger doesn’t light up when I press it but the mirror and sliding glass both still defrost. I thought maybe the light just burned out so I switched out the whole bezel with a new one and the light still doesn’t work when pressed. I like the light to be on so I will know when it’s on. Anyone else have this problem with theirs like this? I haven’t had the rear window shatter yet. Knock on wood.
I would also check out the connectors at the window, they might have come off.
Great video Anthony! My 2011 Ford Raptor came with a non-working rear defroster. I'm going to look at all of this stuff this weekend and try to get mine working too. Thank you!
Look into that step down voltage piece I show and let us know if it works.
@@AnthonyJ350 Can you show how to properly install the step down?
My fiance had a window shatter because of the rear defroster grid so I called Ford they need more people to call them about the rear defroster grid so they could do a recall if they get enough calls in this is a big problem for the 2012 and for needs to fix it the Ford technician at my local Ford dealership said that this was a common problem with the 2012 f150 and the rear defroster grid
Sorry to hear that, hopefully more people speak out about this.
Excellent troubleshooting video!
Thanks for watching?
The whole window assembly is a resistor
Right but we're talking about voltage going to devices where it might need to see a particular value before hand to work properly. Remember there is a switch, then module, then the window (and who knows how they engineered it and if it passes through other devices).
Yeah good point I get 10.2 at the power wire on the window
Ford has had problems on the rear defrosters. The first winter I had my 2013, my daughter pressed the button and the rear window on the passenger side shattered . Ford replaced it for free, but insisted they hadn't heard of any problems.
Videos like this need to exist so when dealerships they can see it's a consistent problem.
2010 Ford F-150 FX4. Rear defroster and heated mirrors do not work. Light on dash DOES illuminate and stays on though. Contacts fell off and reattached. Also light will continue to stay on even if power sliding glass is moved breaking contact. Light should go off when glass breaks contact. Quoted over $1000 from dealer to replace back glass. Any ideas before I replace back glass?? Also I’ve checked fuses. Did find a green fuse I think it’s 40amp under the hood burned. I replaced that but no luck. Thank you
Did you try jumping the wire like in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 no I didn’t try that. Noticed the contacts fell off again 🙄. I’ll probably just have the back glass replaced. Thank you for your help
Has anybody ben able to verify the 5 volt on yellow return wire on a WORKING window? I saw RWchugger installed reducer but light only stayed on for 1 second. Fyi super cab seats are tricky to remove.
The truck in the video the fix is still working. I haven't been able to confirm the 5 volt solution but I know the when we did is still ok.
Is the rear fixed from this or just the mirrors? You never retested the rear window.
I talked with the owner and they told me everything works.
Is this still working correctly on the original truck? No issues or new problems? And is he still using the "fuse jumper" or did he decide to go with the voltage step down kit?
@@AnthonyJ350 Does the "fuse jumper" solution still work on your buddies F150 or did he decide to upgrade to the voltage drop down mod?
@@therwchugger It's still on the fuse jumper, no issues. I saw him about 3 months ago
@@AnthonyJ350 Awesome, thank you. Do you know if the timer also works or does he manually have to turn it off?
What size circuit breaker did you use for the jump?
5- 7.5 amp
Where can I order that part 🤔
Your local install bay can order it if you show them.
Is it also true if your defrost is working you might end up cracking your windows
When we were doing research it is a possibility. Even with this fix. I believe there is a TSB on it, you'll need to search for it on Google.
Bought the red wolf harness, three wires but only two wires on the truck harness. How do you connect?
What do the instructions say?
The red wolf instructions are for a radio. How would you wire this component to the F150 defroster harness
The red wolf instructions are for a radio. How would you wire this component to the F150 defroster harness
The red wolf instructions are for a radio. How would you wire this component to the F150 defroster harness
@@AlainRheault-ph5fs Just ground, 12+ volt constant and 12+ volt to the defrost wire.
Using a usb device will drop the current to about 2.4 amps
On a device that's supposed to have a 5 volt output?
The switch in the roof can impact this.
Thanks for the tip!
Best it doesnt work on these models. Common issue is that rear window exploding due to the defroster
So far people have reported this is working.
Where are you in Canada and can I bring my truck for you to try that fix
Maple Ridge BC
This is looking like the second time I need to replace that back window. First time was under warranty. This time I am not so lucky. Since I am stuck I probably will risk taking apart those mechanical connectors because that is where I think this thing goes south...but I don't use that sliding window that much. Wonder if water is getting in there. Argh.
That sucks to hear. Hope you get it figured out.
So confused. The small light in the button did not light. then on second time
it did light?... Did you replace a fuse?
Probably just needed to cycle the system.
Hi Anthony, Did you wire the fuse at the resistor or before or after the connector? thanks.
You want the fuse before the device hook up and the power source first.
Anthony, I lost the piece you referred to as having the contact fingers. Any idea if this is a part you buy? Thanks
Might be able to find it at an auto wrecker
@@AnthonyJ350 most likely what I will have to do since I can't locate mine after tearing it off when trying to remove the cover for testing. Thanks
Has anyone ever used a thermacam (FLIR IR camera) rather than one of those spot temperature sensors to confirm proper heating? I don't need rear defrost, but I'd sure like to get my mirror heat back
That's a great idea!
Your mirrors may be working even though light on defrost does not light up. Usually do anyway.
I just put a 15 AMP fuse in mine no problems
Thanks for sharing
how/where do you jump the wire? did not notice this connection done in the video after product shown
Jumped the wires with a fuse inline. I show it in the video where.
@@AnthonyJ350 I ordered the AFDI-5V just need to know the correct wiring connection. I Got the black to black ground. which connects to the yellow? black/white or the Blue/red. Or do both of these connect to the yellow?
Mines showing a code in my launch scanner showing a b1c83-13 rear defrost relay. My button also does not light up. I check wiring and i press the bottom checked power. And i dont believe i have any power back there. So i think i may have a bad relay but i also unplugged it and check it with a volt meter. So im gonna get back there and mess with it some more. If its in series i assume it wont show anything without the plug being plugged together? If im correct.
Did you try this fix? It worked for a bunch of people.
@@AnthonyJ350 i have not. I do have a extended warranty with my truck. And i actually just got it three months ago. So im gonna see if the dealer will fix it first. If not then i will be trying out this fix. Especially because winter is coming. And i need my defrost to work, especially being in newyork where winters are rough and cold lol.
@@hairpunut I'm interested to know what part they replace if they fix it. Let us know.
@@AnthonyJ350 will do, i did test the wiring and fuses yesterday. And the fuses all tested good and the relay. The wiring isnt showing any power that i saw. So im working if i have a wiring issue. Thats why i was asking about how you tested for power in the video. Because i have nothing there. Im gonna test one more time tomorrow. To make sure but with my power probe and some back probes. But i dont see so far whats causing the issues other then i have no power coming to the connector.
@@hairpunut Unless there's a hidden fuse in the back for the defrost. But I'm unaware.
Hi, how do you take off the black cap covering the contacts
Pry tool
@@AnthonyJ350 Does it just pop off or is it all part of the fingers?
I wanted to ask if the rear window defroster is working now as well. I take it that it does but you didn’t show that it was heating up as you showed the temp. going up only on the side view mirrors. Mine quit working at the end of this winter and would like to try this than changing out the entire rear window as Ford dealerships say is the way to fix the problem. Thanks for the great video. Please let me know.
Harley Quinn Super squad m.p.h.?
Yup it's still working in that truck up till now.
My i20 rear defogger come on sometimes and when it's on everything is fine. I guess something is loose. How to fix it .
You'll want to bring the vehicle to a diagnostic shop. Too hard to figure out through the comments section.
How did you get the contact cover off and back on without breaking it? Is it glued on or is there a clip?
Just used a little pry tool.
@@AnthonyJ350 is it glued on or a clip. If glued, what did you use to put it back on? I have same issue as everyone. Ford wanted $1800 to replace back window. Truck is a 2013 and we'll out of warranty but a great truck and has a lot of customs.
@@richardgriffin9970 I just used a little instant adhesive
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the information . This is my last check before replacing the window.
So did you install the voltage step down in this video, or just jumper it with a 7.5amp fuse? You talk about the step down, but it looks like just the jumper worked fine?
We just left the jumper in there. The truck is still around in a colder climate than where I live and everything still works I'm told. Just make sure you put that fuse inline.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you. I'm going to try this. I am a little concerned about a window break, I have a 18 month old little boy in a rear facing car seat😬
@@nattynopro6967 I recommend having it serviced at the dealership. There might be an updated design.
@@AnthonyJ350 So I've still been researching this.... it appears the jumper will bypass the switches (contacts) in the sliding window. So you will get a return voltage that illuminates the indicator as well as power the drivers side grid. I believe, based on this drawing
( www.f150forum.com/attachments/f12/400550d1446744571-2011-f-150-heated-mirror-rear-window-defrost-problems-heated-rear-window.jpg )
that the jumper will heat both passenger and drivers side rear windows, but not the sliding window.
So, this fix won't fix everything, but it is certainly a better option than replacing the window.
What does this eliminate the window smashing?
Mine quit working. It was not the soldering to the window. Ford replaced the window the day after they received the window (2 months after they ordered the part). Apparently, that did not correct the issue like they thought. While I waited on the part, I verified the fuse and relay were good. They have now ordered another part, so I will let you know what it turned out to be once I get the truck back.
Thanks for the explanation and walk through.
Yes please let us know. The more feedback we get will help others depending on their situation.
Leptoid Any update?
If a fuse is blown, there's a problem elsewhere 99% of the time.
I have two questions. The step down harness from Ford has three wires, how would you go about connecting it. I also saw in comments that someone's window shattered do you think that's possible by using the stepdown harness. Just curious. Thanks for posting your video.
The shattering window is possible from what I've read. We tested this particular f150 and it was fine. There's 3 wires because one I'd 12v, one is Ground and the last one will be 5v. You'll have to consult the instruction manual for wire colour coding.
Thanks I'm going to try this
@@donaldsouthern5662 how did this turn out for you? looking to possibly do the same
Hi Anthony, i have the same problem, when i press the button for turn on the system deffloger the ligth on de center console don`t work. I check all the fuse, but all is OK. I want to do the fix you show us ¿can you tell me if the fuse of 7.5 Amp its after or before the resistor in the yellow wire (in the back seat)?
Thanks and grettings from Chile
Put the fuse before the resistor at the power source. Hope it fixes it for you.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks Anthony, i asked because i see in your video the fuse connection (in the yellow wire) between the resistor and the "window". I Try in a few hours and tell you the results
@@AnthonyJ350 Its Works, thanks Anthony. I Install a fuse with a fuse holder and works. Thanks a Lot
@@juanpaulobustospacheco4204 Nice, did you put the resistor in?
@@AnthonyJ350 Anthony, i put the resistor between the fuse holder and the Windows. I use this order: power line - fuse - resistor - window
Did you verify the resistance from contact to contact on the sliding glass? I wonder if you could solder a wire between points to ensure a constant short. I understand you'd lose the ability to open the glass but I never do anyways.
Disregard, I saw on a forum where a guy shorted his and the rear glass shattered after a few days.
Thanks for sharing this info!
At 1:50 "Figure out a way to reattach it". What do you use to reattach the clips to the sliding part of the window? The cover and the clips seem to come off as one and the clips tear off the sliding window. Getting them back on is not as easy as it may seem. Any recommendations that work? Thanks
You would have to go to a glass shop and ask when kind of adhesive they use.
I actually found it was conducting epoxy. Bought a small amount and I glued on the two clips and everything works. I was able to put on the black cover. Probably should have made my own video.
What size fuse did you run?
7.5
Lol defogger...🤦🏼♂️
It doesn't snow a ton where we are so we use it more to get rid of condensation than ice. So I tend to call it a defogger over a defroster.
I chuckled as well
Permatex calls it a "defogger" as well..
www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-rear-window-defoggerelectrically-conductive-tab-adhesive/?locale=en
@@fritomx1 It's funny because I'm right? www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/defogger-repair/permatex-rear-window-defoggerelectrically-conductive-tab-adhesive/?locale=en
The mirrors still work when the defrost in the window fails, the LED just doesn’t light up. All you did was make the LED turn on, the defrost is still broken
Then why did the owner tell me it worked well the morning after?
@@AnthonyJ350 Just going off your information it appears to me that the yellow line may be a check of the rear window's heating element, the resistance of which would cause a voltage drop. If the heating element is in place and not broken it would have a specific resistance and accompanying voltage drop. It may be that the yellow lead feeds a sensor telling the computer that the heating element is there and complete, not broken. If the circuit is broken then the computer wouldn't see any voltage, or if it's shorted (full voltage) that would be a fault as well. Not certain about any of that but it makes sense that Ford put in a check to see if the heating element was shorted or open and would kill power to the rear defrost in either case. It would be good to see a wiring diagram of the truck or get the info directly from Ford to confirm. Depending on the way the circuit is designed hacking it could lead to all sorts of problems like the heating element being on continuously and causing damage, or other issues. If you are going to bypass the heating element to get the side mirrors to work you may need to include a fake 'load' (that may be what the voltage drop indicates) to the sensors.
Again, I've not looked at the wiring diagrams and this is all conjecture, but hack at your own risk without fully understanding the designed circuit.
I did a temporary jump similar to the video and tested the rear window with a laser thermometer and it appeared to be heating.