วีดีโอ

Thank you for your kind words and support! It really motivates me to keep going and sharing helpful content. ❤

@idreestech yes, forget about all the negative people, keep doing your work, your videos, because there are people like me, NSC in the place to be, that LOVING IT ALL you do 😀

You're most welcome! I'm thrilled you find the videos helpful, and your kind words truly mean a lot. Thanks for your continued support-I'm always here to help troubleshoot and guide you through these challenges! 😊👍

You’re absolutely right-reheating the IC can be a temporary fix, but a proper reballing is the long-term solution. If the solder joints under the IC are cracked or damaged, reballing ensures a more stable and reliable repair. Thanks for pointing that out! 👌

The sparking or static sound when connecting the standby 5 volt wires to your PS3's power supply could indicate an electrical short or poor connection. Here's what you can check: Inspect the Power Supply: Remove the power supply and check for any visible damage, burnt components, or broken solder joints. Look closely at the connectors for signs of corrosion or dirt and clean them if necessary. Check the Grey and White Wires: Ensure the wires are securely connected and not damaged or frayed. Verify that the connectors are seated properly and there’s no debris in the sockets. Inspect the Motherboard: If the power supply appears fine, examine the motherboard for burnt traces or damaged components, especially near the GPU, which has an eight-pin chip that converts into 3.2 volts. Those 3.2 volts are essential for the southbridge and the SYSCON chips. Test the Power Supply: If you have access to another working PS3 Slim, test the power supply in that console to see if it functions properly. Alternatively, try using a known good power supply with your console. Grounding Issue: Ensure the console and power supply are on a non-conductive surface to prevent accidental grounding issues. If none of these steps work, the issue might be deeper, such as a failed power IC or a damaged power rail on the motherboard. Let me know if you need guidance on diagnosing further!

@idreestech Thank you. I appreciate the response and advice. Much appreciated. 👍🏿

You're very welcome! I'm glad I could help. If you run into any more issues or need further guidance, feel free to ask-I'm always here to help. 👍🏿

It sounds like your PS3 is powering on, but the lack of video output suggests an issue with either the video output hardware or the internal system. Here’s what you can try to fix it: 1. Check HDMI or AV Cables and Ports Swap out the HDMI or AV cable with a known working one. Try a different port on your TV or monitor. If you’re using HDMI, also test with AV cables (the PS3 supports both outputs). 2. Reset Video Settings (Hard Reset) The PS3 might be outputting to a resolution your TV/monitor cannot support. To reset video settings: Turn off the PS3 completely (red light should show). Hold down the Power button until you hear 2 beeps: 1st beep when the console powers on. 2nd beep after holding for 5-10 seconds. The PS3 will reset its video output settings to the lowest default (standard definition). Connect using HDMI or AV cables again. 3. Safe Mode Attempt (Even If You Tried) If resetting didn’t work, boot into Safe Mode: Power off the console. Hold the Power button until you hear: 1st beep: Power On. 2nd beep: Power Off. Release the button, then press and hold it again. Listen for two quick beeps. Release the button after this. If successful, Safe Mode should appear with a menu. Choose Restore Default Settings or Rebuild Database. 4. Inspect the Hard Drive A failing hard drive can cause boot issues without warning. Power off the PS3. Remove the hard drive (check your PS3 model for instructions). Boot the PS3 without the hard drive installed. If the console displays a prompt for missing storage, the hard drive could be the issue. If that works, replace or format the hard drive. 5. Hardware Issues If all else fails: GPU or RSX Problem: If the PS3 powers on but still shows no display, the RSX (graphics chip) may have solder issues. Reflowing or reballing might be needed. Video Output Port: HDMI or AV ports might be damaged internally. Look for bent pins or damage. If you’re comfortable troubleshooting further, I can guide you on checking the RSX and testing video output points on the board. Let me know! 😊

@idreestech Thank you! I will try out these fixes and update you accordingly

@@idreestech @idreestech Hi, I have tried all the above mentioned fixes but none of them work. When I boot it into safe mode there is still no display . However if I boot it into safe mode and try turning the PlayStation off I hear 3 quick beeps. I've also tried removing the HDD but that doesn't not work. I've seen a youtube video on how someone fixed a problem similar to this by adding coins between the rsx chip and the heatsink. The uploader stated that this was done to add pressure onto the joints which has loosen because of overheating. Do you recommend trying this?

It’s good to hear your controllers are syncing since that confirms the system is booting. Here's a step-by-step guide to troubleshoot the no-video output issue on both AV and HDMI: 1. Reset Video Output Settings Sometimes the PS3 outputs a resolution your TV/monitor doesn’t support. To reset: Turn off the PS3 completely (solid red light). Hold down the Power button: Keep holding after the 1st beep (Power On). Release after the 2nd beep (about 5-10 seconds). The PS3 resets its video output to standard definition. Connect using both AV and HDMI (to ensure you test both outputs). 2. Test HDMI/AV Cables and Ports Use a working HDMI cable on a known good TV. If still no display, test with the AV cable (red, white, yellow wires). Ensure ports on the TV and PS3 are not damaged. Test another HDMI input on your TV or a different monitor. 3. Boot into Safe Mode Safe Mode can bypass video configuration issues: Turn off the PS3 (solid red light). Press and hold the Power button: 1st beep: Power On. 2nd beep: Power Off (keep holding). Release the button after you hear two quick beeps. Safe Mode menu should appear. If successful, choose Restore Default Settings or Rebuild Database. If Safe Mode doesn’t appear, it’s likely a hardware problem. 4. Check the Hard Drive A failing HDD can cause display issues. To test: Power off the console and remove the hard drive. Turn on the PS3 without the hard drive installed. If you see a prompt asking for the storage device, the HDD could be faulty. Replace or reformat the hard drive. 5. Internal Hardware Issue: RSX (Graphics Chip) If the above fails, the issue may be with the RSX (GPU): Symptoms: System boots, no display output, controllers work. Cause: RSX chip’s solder joints may have cracked or weakened over time. Possible Fixes: Reflow the RSX: Temporarily fixes solder cracks using controlled heat. Reballing (Permanent Fix): Replace old solder balls under the RSX with new ones. Note: These are advanced repairs. If you’re not confident, consider taking it to a professional. Next Steps Start with the reset video settings and Safe Mode attempts. If no success, test the HDD. If still no display, it’s most likely the RSX chip, and a reflow/reballing is needed. Let me know how it goes, and I’ll help you further! 👍

@idreestech Thank you Sir! I'll try out these fixes and update you accordingly

@@idreestech Hi, I have tried all the above mentioned fixes but none of them work. When I boot it into safe mode there is still no display . However if I boot it into safe mode and try turning the PlayStation off I hear 3 quick beeps. I've also tried removing the HDD but that doesn't not work. I've seen a youtube video on how someone fixed a problem similar to this by adding coins between the rsx chip and the heatsink. The uploader stated that this was done to add pressure onto the joints which has loosen because of overheating. Do you recommend trying this?

That's a solid run for an Xbox 360 from 2010! The RDOD (Red Dot of Death) can be frustrating, but taking it back to the shop might not be an option after all these years. If you’re into DIY repairs, it could just need some TLC-like reflowing solder joints, replacing thermal paste, or even checking for bad capacitors. Let me know if you need guidance, and good luck with it! 🚀

Great question! To find the correct resistor values: Check the Schematics: If you have access to your PS3 motherboard schematics, it will list the resistor values. Multimeter Testing: Measure the resistance of an identical resistor in the same group or from a working board. Color Code: Resistors often have color bands indicating their resistance. Use an online resistor color code calculator if needed. Consult the Community: Forums or repair videos might mention typical values for certain resistors. If you’re unsure or need specific values, feel free to ask with more details about the resistor's location on the board! 👍

That's so kind of you! Thank you for the support and encouragement. 😊 New videos are definitely on the way-stay tuned! 🎥✨

No worries about your English-it's perfectly understandable! 😊 Yes, the problem was caused by a damaged resistor. I replaced the faulty resistor with a new one, and that solved the issue completely. If you need help with your repair, feel free to ask!

That's impressive work! Upgrading the heatsink and using premium thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is a smart move for better heat dissipation. Your detailed insights on Sony's design choices with liquid metal are spot-on, and it's fascinating how you retrofitted a first-gen heatsink into a second-gen PS5. Great job on proactively enhancing performance and longevity! 👏 For anyone facing PS5 Blue Light of Death issues, maintenance like this might help in some cases by addressing thermal problems before they cause further damage.

Thank you so much for the support and kind words! 🙏 You're absolutely right about delidding the IHS-old, dried-out thermal paste underneath can be a hidden cause of overheating and shutdowns. It's a great tip for anyone troubleshooting persistent thermal issues. I really appreciate your offer to help-your expertise is always welcome! ✌️

@idreestech Thank you so much too. Like i told, if i can help, just let me know. Best regards NSC

Thank you for the love and support! ❤ If you have any questions or need help with fixing overheating problems on your PS4, feel free to ask-I'm here to help! 😊

Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately, I currently focus on creating repair guides to help people like you troubleshoot issues themselves. If you're not confident in repairing it, I recommend reaching out to a local professional repair service or asking someone experienced nearby. The issue you described could be related to overheating or damaged components due to the "brown dry liquid," possibly old thermal paste or corrosion. It would be best to clean it thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and inspect the area for damage. If you ever decide to attempt the repair yourself, feel free to ask any questions-I'm here to help!

This issue is often related to hardware failures, such as a short circuit, power supply problem, or overheating protection. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot: Check Power Supply: Ensure the power supply unit is functioning properly. If possible, test with a known working PSU. Inspect the Motherboard: Look for any burnt components, blown capacitors, or signs of damage. Clean and Reapply Thermal Paste: Overheating can trigger shutdowns. Clean the heat sink and reapply thermal paste to the CPU and GPU. Check for Shorts: Use a multimeter to check for shorts near the power ICs or MOSFETs. If none of these work, there may be an issue with the APU (CPU/GPU combo) or syscon. In that case, more advanced repair techniques, such as reballing or replacing the chip, might be needed.

This issue is often related to hardware failures, such as a short circuit, power supply problem, or overheating protection. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot: Check Power Supply: Ensure the power supply unit is functioning properly. If possible, test with a known working PSU. Inspect the Motherboard: Look for any burnt components, blown capacitors, or signs of damage. Clean and Reapply Thermal Paste: Overheating can trigger shutdowns. Clean the heat sink and reapply thermal paste to the CPU and GPU. Check for Shorts: Use a multimeter to check for shorts near the power ICs or MOSFETs. If none of these work, there may be an issue with the APU (CPU/GPU combo) or syscon. In that case, more advanced repair techniques, such as reballing or replacing the chip, might be needed.

@idreestech bro red light doesn't turn into green , just goes off and fan run for 2 second and just goes off then I have to press start button again , then red light appears

شكراً جزيلاً! 😊 تعليقك يعني لي الكثير وأقدّر دعمك. إذا كنت بحاجة إلى أي مساعدة بخصوص الأجهزة أو لديك أي سؤال، لا تتردد في التواصل! 🌟

Thank you so much, Younes! Your kind words mean the world to me. Sharing knowledge and helping others is what I strive for, and I’m so glad it makes a difference. God bless you, too! 🙏✨ I appreciate the support! Let's keep learning and fixing those consoles together!

And one in 1

This will help restore proper functionality and prevent further issues. 😊

If the resistors show slightly different values like 46.9 and 48.2 ohms, it's better to have a jump each.

The color issue could be related to the HDMI port or its associated circuitry; you might need to wash the area, especially the HDMI port pins, with isopropyl alcohol.

Have you tried checking the settings on your TV, such as PAL, SECAM, and NTSC? Maybe a setting has accidentally changed, causing the color mismatch.

Unfortunately, I can't provide specific temperature settings for a BGA machine, as it greatly depends on the model and the components you're working on. It's crucial to consult the machine's documentation for proper settings.

You're most welcome! Glad you found the content helpful. 😊

If it is a problem with the YLOD, then you have checked everything, then have you replaced the NEC tokin capacitors that are there or should you add them first and see. It is possible that your problem will be solved by this because if everything is fine, the voltage and the outputs of the secondary power supplies are all fine, then the issue may be with the NEC token capacitor.

Hi,@u.Ort. There may many reasons about this issue. I have tried to explain all the possible problems in my other PS3 YLOD detailed videos. Keep in touch and share your experiences in comments and do it together.

@ngonohtc5724 The material placed on top of the heat plate is a thermal pad. In this case, it’s a thermal pad from a PS2 console, typically used for the processors to ensure proper heat dissipation. Let me know if you need further clarification!

​@idreestech thanks sir for the quick reply and all the free knowledge. I love how you improvise.

Thanks for watching and for your kind words! I'm thrilled the video was helpful to you, and I hope it makes solving the RSoD and trophy errors easier for everyone dealing with this issue. Your support means a lot!

In recent times, this error has been known for the CPU (CELL), but it is actually due to an error in the NOR of the Playstation 3 SLIM/SUPER SLIM. Due to a failure when performing the exploit, you can end up having a console Bricked, for this use E3 FLASHER, Tennsy.etc For 3XXX, 4XXX consoles, the BRICK WITH Tennsy can be solved. in 4XXX keep in mind that the NOR can be emmc (12GB) therefore it will not be possible to solve it (for now...) for Super Slim reflow or reball RSX

The A0805FFF error can often be misdiagnosed as solely a CPU (CELL) issue, but it's increasingly recognized as stemming from a corruption in the NOR flash, especially on PS3 Slim and Super Slim models. Here's a breakdown for clarity: Issues during exploit installation or general flash corruption can lead to a bricked console with symptoms like freezing, GLOD, or failed boots. When the error manifests as graphical or general instability, reflowing or reballing the RSX can sometimes resolve issues. However, this should be considered a last resort and done with precision to avoid further damage. While less common, the CELL can occasionally be the culprit. 3XXX & 4XXX: Both can benefit from NOR reprogramming, but remember: 3XXX: Generally repairable using E3 or Teensy. 4XXX: Requires additional caution. If the NOR is an eMMC (common in 12GB models), current tools cannot reprogram or repair it.

@@idreestech thank you 🙂 for that information you are so great on repairing console 🥰 . mine is 21xx series. can i flash the nor via teensy++? im not a tech but can do soldering and basic programming . assuming i took the bad dump can i patched it ?

or can i flash the ofw ? will it replace the corrupted nor?

@@idreestech hi i think you're right the problem is within nor. I managed to flashed OFW and the problem seems gone. the devices is up for about 14hours now with out hang

Sure dear I’ll.

@archiehunt9440 The issue you're describing is commonly referred to as the 'Blue Light of Death' (BLOD). It can result from various issues, including a faulty APU, power supply, or even corrupted firmware. Another potential cause could be improper RAM biases. Use a multimeter to measure the RAM biases and ensure they match the expected voltage values. If they deviate, the issue might lie with the voltage regulators or associated components. Start by checking the secondary power supplies,, and RAM bias voltages. If those are fine, further steps like reflowing or reballing the APU might be required. Let me know if you’d like more detailed guidance!

@idreestech ah ok thx so much

@marccruz5860 Haha! Glad to hear we share the same GPU! 😄 I’d love to help. If you’re having issues, let me know the problem and I can guide you through some troubleshooting steps!

@solemanwarner Shukriya! Direct contact details ke liye, kindly mera channel description check karein ya yahan se message karen. Har possible madad ke liye hazir hoon. 🙏😊

@KAZAMA231 It’s frustrating when repair options seem limited. From what you described, the issue might be power-related or could involve a component on the motherboard, like a failing NEC/Tokin capacitor or power IC. I completely understand wanting to keep your PS3 running, especially if it holds special value. If you're comfortable with some DIY or have access to someone with technical expertise, it might be worth exploring a repair. I'm here to guide you if needed-feel free to ask! 🙌

@az_mi91 Sorry to hear you're having trouble with your SCPH-90002! Could you share more details about the issue you're facing? Whether it's related to Free McBoot, booting, or something else, I'd be happy to assist. Let’s figure this out together!

@aliehsanfar1667 خیلی ممنون از حمایتت و محبتت! خیلی خوشحالم که ویدئوها رو دوست داری. امیدوارم همیشه موفق باشی، از ایران عزیز! ❤️🙏

@davedm6345 It sounds like there might be an issue with the CPU's solder joints, possibly cold solder or a loose connection. Applying pressure may temporarily reconnect the joints. A reflow or reballing of the CPU could help resolve the issue. If you're not familiar with these techniques, I recommend seeking assistance from a professional repair technician. Let me know if you need more details!

Hi @davedm6345 I always replace it with the other donor motherboard. It shows on motherboard at 55 Ohms. It is a feedback coupling to this dc-to-dc converter chip from the generated power. It enables the chip outputs to stop the power when there’s a potential difference of(.67 volts) in the generated power. It is exactly at the value of 55 Ohms.

@@idreestech Many thanks

Hola @MauricioLopez-mj9oe, gracias por compartir tu situación. Si la fuente de alimentación está funcionando correctamente pero tu consola sigue apagándose después de pitar, podría ser un problema con el APU o algún componente relacionado con el suministro de voltaje. Te recomendaría verificar los reguladores de voltaje y las resistencias cercanas al APU. Si necesitas más ayuda, no dudes en preguntar. ¡Éxito con la reparación!

@samswaroop4397 Shukriya aapki request ke liye! Agar aapko repair services ya technical support chahiye, aap mujhe yahan se directly message kar sakte hain. Specific contact information ke liye, kindly channel description check karein. 🙏😊

Thank you for your comment, @mzikitz-g7i! Let me know if there's anything specific I can help you with. 😊

"@metavize8046 A dropped PS4 that hangs during gameplay could have internal damage. Since SMDs are okay, focus on these areas: Hard Drive (HDD): The impact might have damaged the HDD. Try replacing it with a new one or testing it on PC with Hard Disk Sentinel. APU or RAM: The fall could have caused microfractures in the solder joints of the APU or RAM. Ensure stability under load by testing it with a demanding graphics game. PCB Layers: Inspect for any cracked traces on the motherboard that might disrupt high-demand power or data delivery. Cooling System: Ensure the heatsink and fan are properly aligned and functional, as improper cooling can cause hangs during heavy tasks. If none of these work, reflowing the APU might be the next step, but proceed cautiously. Let me know how it goes!

@idreestech i tested hdd and power supply replaced but they were ok, cooling system is ok, smds that you showed and checked in this video were ok, other smds i dont know the exact but almost ok, if i had the boar datasheet i could test all of smd. Now the remaining posibilities are ram and apu, what do you think? What i do in next step?

@metavize8046 You're narrowing it down well-great work! Since HDD, power supply, and cooling are ruled out, and most SMDs seem okay, the focus on RAM and APU is logical. Here’s how to proceed: RAM Testing: Use a thermal camera or IPA (isopropyl alcohol) to check for any abnormal heating on RAM chips during operation. Measure resistance on RAM pins to ground; compare with known good values if possible. If you have spare RAM chips or a donor board, swapping them may help. APU Testing: The APU might have microfractures in solder joints or internal issues. Start with a reflow using a controlled heat source like a heat gun or rework station (not too high to avoid damage). If reflowing doesn’t resolve it, consider a reball, but only if you have the tools and experience.

@idreestech ok, how can i check rams temprature, when i turn on device, all rams start to geting hot, and when i start a game in loading screen freez and after seconds an error apear: CE-36329-3 And im sure about hdd and power and cooling system health.

@metavize8046 It sounds like you've done a thorough job isolating the issue. Here's how to proceed with RAM temperature testing and further diagnosis: 1. Checking RAM Temperature Use a thermal camera if available. Power on the PS4 and observe the RAM chips; they should heat evenly. If a thermal camera isn’t accessible, try the IPA method: Apply a thin layer of isopropyl alcohol (99%) on the surface of the RAM chips. Turn on the PS4 and observe the evaporation pattern. The faulty RAM chip will often heat faster and evaporate IPA quicker. 2. Interpreting the Error CE-36329-3 This error is usually software-related but can point to hardware issues like RAM faults or APU problems if it happens consistently. It aligns with the symptoms you described, especially freezing during high-load tasks (like gaming). 3. Next Steps If one or more RAM chips are overheating, consider replacing them (reball or reflow required). Test the voltage regulators supplying the RAM chips. Ensure they’re providing stable power. If the RAM checks out, the issue may stem from the APU. A reflow might temporarily solve it, but a reball or replacement is often necessary for permanent fixes. Let me know what you observe during the temperature test, and we can troubleshoot further!

TheJosephAnime Thanks for sharing your issue. A PS3 that shuts off after some time 3 beeps, again 3 beeps and blinks red is typically overheating or has a thermal-related issue. Since you've already cleaned the dust, check the thermal paste on the CPU and RSX chips-it might be dried out and ineffective. Replace it with a good-quality thermal paste. Also, inspect the thermal pads and ensure the fan is functioning optimally. If the issue persists, it might be a power supply problem.

These are coupling capacitors and resisters, if resistance value is high enough (should be around 10,12,14 and 17 ohms) it must be replaced.

@ Are you talking about the 3rd row of elements? I just watched all your videos on PS3 diagnostics and you don't check this 3rd row anywhere, measuring only the first and second row of elements. Do capacitors check by resistance? Or is this an indirect indicator of a malfunction?

@alginjerdytalob2181 That sounds like a disc drive or software issue. The problem could be with the laser lens struggling to read discs or the system's firmware acting up. Try cleaning the laser lens gently or rebuilding the database from Safe Mode. If the issue persists, consider checking the disc drive for mechanical issues. Let me know if you need detailed guidance-happy to help!

@metavize8046 Haha, kabab is amazing! You're making me hungry now! 😂 Thanks for your awesome support, my friend-you're the best!

@metavize8046 ❤ Much love and appreciation to you, my friend! Thank you for always supporting me!