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Is the reveal actually needed,

What about a neck through?

So for someone building his first guitar, would you advise against the tune-o-matic? Would the hard tail fender style be easier?

Ich würde gerne um 0:27 Uhr mehr über dieses Schwanzstück erfahren. Gute Einweisung danke.

I made two guitars with my own hands. Yes, it's very exciting when she makes her first notes. I watched all the videos on this project. Great job, very challenging and interesting! It doesn't even look like a musical instrument, but like a luxury item)). But the sound is completely ordinary, just like any good guitar. In any case, this is amazing work! All the best!

The templates you use should already have the bridge positioned. This is making the taks WAY more difficult than it should be.

Don't do the ca glue and masking tape trick. its bullshit and will lead you to clean up you don't want to do. why you ask? its because the ca glue will soak through the tape and bind the tape to the wood and cleaning ca glue and tape off of wood sucks. get some real double sided tape maybe you have to put your bong down for a few days to afford it but it will bee= worth it and save you grief

I'm building an SG style and what I've done to accomplish this is also to remove material from the neck block to get the taper I needed. The equipment I used is a belt sander with small levels to keep the neck level equal to the sander. Worked quite well but with this method you want to remove material in small increments and check for bumps. Once this was done I clamped the neck to the body, installed the bridge and stopbar tail piece, put tuners into the treble and bass E string positions, put the strings on and tuned them. Then measured the height of the strings at the 12th fret and nut for proper relief. I got lucky and nailed it the first time! Although all this sounds complicated, take your time, check your calculations and the level repeatedly and honestly it was fast and very easy. So far so good but it's a set neck so you want to be sure you glue the neck in the exact spot and make sure of your scale length. Next is grain filler and paint. This is over simplified because there are a lot of steps involved in a build but remember to take your time. Thank you.

Really good and informative videos on fret sizes and neck radius. Thank you.

Thank you!

oh its goin okay. well, actually a bit south of okay. but, a bit north of cancer.

I have a Fender tele string height at the nut seems fine but the string height at the neck pocket is un playingly high should I shim the neck at the back of the pocket or might it be something else

Brilliant video. Thanks so much!

Regarding EVO Gold: I guess there are some alternatives, if you are not too picky about sizes: Warwick sells brass frets, but only precut and in Jumbo size. And there is Hosco, selling brass frets in 3 different sizes: Medium, Medium Jumbo, and Jumbo. But sadly only precut to standard guitar neck widths. I plan to install vintage/medium frets on my upcoming 5-string bass build, and would consider gold or brass. Warwick's frets are too Jumbo for my taste, and Hosco's frets are not cut wide enough. So I'll probably install stainless steel frets.

In terms of solid body electric builds, if you could have only one plane what would you suggest? I was looking into getting a “Veritas” low angle bevel up jack plane with an assortment of blades one being a toothed for getting body blanks to thickness. Good choice? Another question, are you trying to minimize the amount of sanding that needs to be done by hand planing? I have never built a guitar but have done some basic things with my own guitars like refrets, nut and bridge from blanks, and general setup without destroying anything :-). Enjoying your content! edit: Should have watched the end before posting… lol

Your channel has too much good info to allow myself the luxury of not subscribing

My goodness, I've watched your neck pitch video and now this one and you've helped demystify the most daunting aspects of guitar building for me. I'm working on my first custom guitar and your guides are perfect. I actually feel like I can do this. Thanks so much for explaining the theory and how-to so well! Subscribed!

Excellent video mate - just found you from one search - liked & subscribed INSTANTLY 👍

Awesome!

Hi great video what glue was you using in the video?

Great video- great explanation… I build almost exclusively neck-thru guitars and they present quite a bit more complexities.

I subscribed Awen.😅

Got some good ideas from your explanation of bridge place, especially Hi E referencing and moving that string to the fret scale reference point. Is the string gauge variation a major factor regarding intonation? For instance a Super Light flat wound .08 in relation to a heavy .11 Hi E? If so, do you move the string holder forward or backward?

I like SS Jumbo. Well, the playing more than the installing, they are pretty hard.

What a cool tip ! I just did and it worked just like he explained. Never woulda thought of that. 🍻

Excellent video 👍😎🍻

Great video Shawn. I wish I had had more time to learn from you last we met. I feel a bit short changed by circumstances last course I did in Dorchester. I should've watched more of your videos.

Sintoms 4.3mm is king 👑 (you guys probably don’t even know what I’m talking about) 🚂

Hi mate. I have been a luthier for more than 40 year's, and in my first decade of building guitars i had the same approch to neck angle as you show here. But later ( approx 30 year's ago) i found out, that the neck angle do have some othere advantages. When i angle the neck 1-->2 degree the string tenssion feels lighter and the amount of stress of the neck / trussrod becomes real low. This makes my guitars much easier to adjust and the feel of playing is way better. Another bonus is, i can adjust my strings real low, without any buzz. I have made this 1-->2 degree angle to more than 100 Fender start guitars, and all my customers feld like they got a whole new instrument, and love the lov action with NO buzz.Try to make 2 identical guitars, 1 with no angle and 1 with 1-->2 degree angle, and see what is better, you will be surprised.

Great video, I finally understand why I only have to intonate “back” from the scale length 😅 Thanks 🙏🏻👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

I've always thought that one saddle should be placed in the middle position of the bridge so that there is room for manipulation and movement

Be patient is probably the number one thing I've learnt over my journey, especially with paint and lacquer! Alway have some wood filler in the workshop and as echoed in the video and comments, very few mistakes can't be fixed, and we all do and will make um...

Knowledge for life.. thank you!

What about orienting the grain as seen from the ends of the board? Should they oppose each other ? Also, is there a reason you wouldn't you use your bench vise and dogs to clamp it?

What do you call/where did you get that protractor with angles and centering on it?

Preklad? Sk

You save my day, I'll be install tune o matic, it’s so clear to understand, thanks!!

You guita mu sicnumbone thank yuo !!!

apart from marking tools, would you mind sharing your marking techniques? Maybe it's just me, but i am having a hard timing making reliable marks (I;ve been using a mechanical pencil) Last week I tried to draw a center line on the wood insert on the truss rod. I draw about 10 times until I got it right. When you look at the mark one the ruler and make a mark with your pencil and the thickness of the pencil and the distance betwwen the edge of the ruler and the tip of the pencil and the wood grains trying the guide the pencil and puting back the ruler to two marks and trying to compensate for the errors made by the pencil there is such a overwhelming large amount of error that has been accumulated. I hope this question doesn't sound too stupid.

Lol, still saying a lot of millimeters 😂 millimeters. But basically you said everything right, like the other people. But not that simplified. A lot of millimeters up and down on both sides, thank you very much. You should try and make that a shorter version with less millimeters mentions. It' s actually about the listener's ability to concentrate, not about you saying it wrong. I get it, but my attention drops and i' m starting to look at your beard and not hearing you😂 cheers

cheers man, best bridge placement explanation. thanks, that solve me a problem. 😉

Thanks Awen, very straight forward and clear lesson, really helpfull for partscaster diy guys. BTW, can you make a vid regarding string tension setting ? Have a nice day Sir.

Awesome explanation

thanks

What are vintage 5150 frets any help will be much appreciated.

Simple easy explanation. Now it’s so clear to understand thanks!

I've been wondering about this for ages. Great info, thanks!

Thank you, I'm just at the bridge stage of restoring a brutalised old Cimar jazz bass. Just had to do it but challenging with my rudimentary knowledge. I could wax lyrically but suffice to say it is somewhat of an epiphany to find sites like yours.

Loved this. Exactly what I needed.

Any recommendations on fret wire for my Lowden f35