It's on my list brother. The last thing I truly need to take it to the next level! For now, I guess my resaw work will be done elsewhere! My little one will do for a longer. Great video and I will be referring back to it when I do finally pull the trigger! ✌️&💙
A bandsaw is life changing, especially for guitar building! I don't know what I'd do without it. Resawing is a different animal alright, you'll want something with heft to get the job done well. Saying that, even an underpowered saw can do some decent resaw work if set up well with a good sharp blade.
@@AwenLutherieCustomGuitars yeah man, I've got a small bandsaw and I ordered an Excalibur Blade for it. It made a huge difference but max resaw is like 120mm. It'll happen
Nice process sir. I think most people have problems with their saws as they don't do things in order or only do certain steps when changing blades. That is definitely a tad more fiddly than I thought they would be requiring so many changes for a blade change. Always figured it was put the new blade on check tracking on the wheels n have at it once all the bearings were set. Didnt even think fences needed squaring I just figured the were on a machines surface and were always good to go..
In reality changing the blade is a much quicker process. Once the bearings are set you don't usually need to change them. My usual process is new blade on and then check the fence, generally not more than a 10 minute job, often times less. Assuming you put on a similar blade!
Thanks again Sean, Im actually in the market for a bandsaw at the moment so this will come in handy. Quick question, What size bandsaw would you recommend? I want to be able to resaw and bookmatch and i have no idea what would be an ample size for this while staying somewhat reasonable cost wise 😅 . Saying that, being able to resaw and bookmatch is a massive reason for me getting one and id like to also be able to cut my own bookmatched backs etc for an acoustic build i will try attempt in the future. I want to be sure i buy once cry once and get the right one so any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hah, not a great question for me, I'm afraid. In general, the bigger motor the better. Take a look at the resaw capability and the throat capacity and make sure they work for you. For tops, you will want to be resawing around 200mm, and you'll want a decent motor behind that. My advice is set a budget and then get the most bandsaw for that money. The bandsaw in this video is a record power sabre 350, which is greeat.
@@AwenLutherieCustomGuitarsi was looking at the BS350 14" but not the sabre edition. Maybe ill hold out a little longer and save the extra 400 to spring for the sabre one Thanks
It offers the best cut stability and quality (in my opinion) the blade will be tightest and therefore most accurate and stable right at the apex of the wheel. As you move from the apex, the blade gets "flappier" which doesn't matter too much for the back of the blade as it will follow in the kerf of the cut.
It's on my list brother. The last thing I truly need to take it to the next level! For now, I guess my resaw work will be done elsewhere! My little one will do for a longer. Great video and I will be referring back to it when I do finally pull the trigger! ✌️&💙
A bandsaw is life changing, especially for guitar building! I don't know what I'd do without it.
Resawing is a different animal alright, you'll want something with heft to get the job done well. Saying that, even an underpowered saw can do some decent resaw work if set up well with a good sharp blade.
@@AwenLutherieCustomGuitars yeah man, I've got a small bandsaw and I ordered an Excalibur Blade for it. It made a huge difference but max resaw is like 120mm. It'll happen
That record power looks just like my Rikon.. I like your fence set up technique.. great information.
I imagine it looks like a fair few bandsaws out there... There isn't a whole lot you can do with the design!
Excellent! Now, if only I had space for one…! 😊😊
At least it isn't the biggest machine... you don't need to clear quite so much space for it!
Nice process sir. I think most people have problems with their saws as they don't do things in order or only do certain steps when changing blades. That is definitely a tad more fiddly than I thought they would be requiring so many changes for a blade change. Always figured it was put the new blade on check tracking on the wheels n have at it once all the bearings were set. Didnt even think fences needed squaring I just figured the were on a machines surface and were always good to go..
In reality changing the blade is a much quicker process. Once the bearings are set you don't usually need to change them. My usual process is new blade on and then check the fence, generally not more than a 10 minute job, often times less. Assuming you put on a similar blade!
Thanks again Sean, Im actually in the market for a bandsaw at the moment so this will come in handy.
Quick question, What size bandsaw would you recommend?
I want to be able to resaw and bookmatch and i have no idea what would be an ample size for this while staying somewhat reasonable cost wise 😅 . Saying that, being able to resaw and bookmatch is a massive reason for me getting one and id like to also be able to cut my own bookmatched backs etc for an acoustic build i will try attempt in the future. I want to be sure i buy once cry once and get the right one so any insight you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hah, not a great question for me, I'm afraid. In general, the bigger motor the better. Take a look at the resaw capability and the throat capacity and make sure they work for you. For tops, you will want to be resawing around 200mm, and you'll want a decent motor behind that.
My advice is set a budget and then get the most bandsaw for that money. The bandsaw in this video is a record power sabre 350, which is greeat.
@@AwenLutherieCustomGuitarsi was looking at the BS350 14" but not the sabre edition. Maybe ill hold out a little longer and save the extra 400 to spring for the sabre one Thanks
What is your reason for centering at the gullet?
It offers the best cut stability and quality (in my opinion) the blade will be tightest and therefore most accurate and stable right at the apex of the wheel. As you move from the apex, the blade gets "flappier" which doesn't matter too much for the back of the blade as it will follow in the kerf of the cut.