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Thank you so much for this brilliant tutorial! It's a fabulous controller :)

Nail polish, thinned with a bit of acetone. An 18 gauge blunt needle on a syringe. Fill it up, put the needle into the engraved text and carefully trace out your lines. Once you get the hang of it, you can do it without error and the finish is solid and permanent.

Thank you. Couldn’t have done this without you!

Thanks for your brilliant tutorial. I would please like to confirm a few things as i am waiting for my kit to arrive. Firstly do you, would you advise to put white lithium grease along the teeth parts of all the rails, bearings, would you advise if its ok to put a dab of super glue over the wires secured to the hall sensors were they are slotted into its housings too keep them more secure, and lastly i take it its best not to solder the wires onto the hall sensor prongs instead of the using the ferrules? something to do with heat damaging the sensors? Thanks for any advice

As a guy who terminates those RJ45 keystones as part of my job, your wire stripper has a “punch-down” tool on the end of it. I would just set the wires in and Press down hard with the tool(no need to strip as that’s how they are designed. Once they’re all punched down close the cover. The insulation of the wires kinda helps hold the wires in place after the punch from friction.

That looks much easier that acrylic painting or swapping filament mid print!

Thanks Alan

You finally done did it and made a GA setup. Looks like I may have zero chance of not diving into AuthentiKit now. 😉

I was wondering where you went!!! I love your work

This was a very nice presentation. Thanks for the thorough walk-through.

Building it today! Thanks Phil.

Any update on P-40 flight stick?

Totally brilliant! 🙏🙌🙌🙌

Absolutely brilliant....as usual! Your enthusiasm and obvious skill is most inspirational. Top Job

Just bought the all-inclusive kit, can't wait!

Brilliant timing, looking forward to build this 👍

Amazing! Really good job!

Fantastic work. I've built all your Spitfire parts but love GA especially A2As Comanche so will be printing and building all these parts as they become available. Thanks for all your hard work

AWSOME! TY FOR THE VIDS

this is the right place i had been looking for decades!!! ty for AuthenticKit !!

Printing with two different colored filaments could make that one too. But this one is also a very interesting approach. But i recommend to use the smooth surface feature in Cura slicer for the top finish, to have it not stick else where then just the lettering. Those parts would be ideal for that slicer setting.

This is exactly what I need. Engraved letters are too narrow to paint but you need something to make them stand out. My only concern is that this looks like a lot of effort, but until I get a dual filmament printer, it's a great option.

really nice, is there any step/f360 file for just the mag hall? would like to include it when designing my own devices

I've just printed the base and lid and I see the design has changed, it no longer has the raised blocks behind the CAT6 connectors for the wires to run through. Has the design changed or have I missed something? Downloaded the files fairly recently (in the last month). Thanks

Printing out my P-51 Throttle now on my Prusa MK4 while I am waiting for my kit to arrive in the mail. After having done a ground school course on my local P-51, I am looking forward to flying around in the P-51 using this throttle. I have not been flying the P-51 in DCS as much as I would like, but this will now change. I have been searching for something like this for years, thanks for bringing these out.

So, going to buy this and the pedestal kits with printing done by someone else, but I'm wondering if the screws are marked in the kit from simkitsupplies? (Also, what most gamers don't know about the real P51 is that the prop lever really needs to be pushed a bit gently since the torque of the engine van react badly to rapid increases in throttle input. IOW, there really shouldn't be issues with twisting the throttle lever since you shouldn't be jerking the throttle back and forth. But it's still good you increased the thickness jic.)

At 40.00, none of the bearing casing parts match what is in the file. Apparently, I should ignore that and press on with wire management. The "text box" (@40.11) should be clearer on this.

That is insane!

Phil, newbe here just finished the flight stick, now working. Starting printing the chassis lever, then I'll move to the left wall via the flaps lever and replace a logitech quadrant with the Mk IX. Against your advice I'm leaving the trim wheels to last rather than doing them as an easy starter project,waiting for your combined unit featured at 17:00. Any news on the proximity of download files for that ?

Is possible to use others boards ? like Arduino ? I can find this board on the Aliexpress, and if i try to buy from a US seller the cost go up to 100 dollars and thats ir quite a lot here in Brazil. I'm in love with your projects, I want to start flying IL-2 (and maybe DCS if to budget allows me) and was in doubt about buy a cheap T1600m, but them I see this amazing 3D projects, and change my mind for the price of a T1600m I can get a Ender 3 V3 Se printer and starting make my own flight controls.

hi, great video. I can't tell which spring goes first from the parts list or pictures of springs on line. The part listing shows two springs that are identical. The parts list is no better. You don't say which is the shorter one. Guess \i will watch the whole video to find out.

What depth of engraved text have you found works best?

I found I had to have the control stick further into my legs in order to reach the rudder pedals (I am only 5ft.6in.) Luckily, you barely move the stick and she will turn or dive rapidly. On takeoff, we had the stick right back of course.. Thanks for the measurements! The smell on landing is marvelous also btw...

Fascinating video. Great to see how the sim we can all fly at home can be adapted for the pro's!

I would have thought the carburetor air controls would work. Looks incredible though.

The moment you took off that tiny P-40 trim box and picked that behemoth from Mustang, I nearly started to laugh like crazy. Nothing beats explanation in a form of the premium example.

Spectacular. Wonderful design.

A amazing good tutorial A have SpadNext full edition and there is a very big problem with the tutorials spadnext have. The black background and fast speaking in the tutorials. Can I becom a member of your club ? I am 72 jears old and living in the Netherlands. Thanks for reading this.

shouldnt measure off of yourself, its ok for reference but material to material reference points are going to be a better way to go.

Wow! ..great! 😊 ..looking forward to this!

Wouldn't a white permanent marker with a fine 1 or 2mm tip do the same job but quicker?

Great work, cheers Phil!!👍

Great work Phil - Much appreciated! Keep up the good work!

im going to be showing my age but your presentation reminds me of the show art attack

Quick thought: why don't you modify the pedestal to mount 15mm or more lower and then modify the riser to mount both the throttle and pedestal in their correct positions? You might end up with a funny L shaped riser but just have it mounted on two arm clamps for strength and then bolt the pedestal mount on the front of it.

3:03 Those are called kip handles btw

Great stuff!! Thank you, Phil!

Looks very interesting, wish I had a 3D printer.

Cool video! Have you also measured the number of degrees of rotation for Spitfire's elevator trim wheel?