วีดีโอ

This was a vitamin boost while cooking Christmas dinner😀 Merry Christmas, KI🎅😊

Add a soft start mod

Solo decir que la direccion del aire es totalmente contraria a la di amica Natural de fluido, el aire caliente deberia de ponerlo en la Parte alta de la cabina

Why not sell a compressor snuggy blanket

As long as you are only cutting a groove and not all the way through, a riving knife isn't needed. Don't know why you would make a through cut with a dado blade.

A homemade dado blade, I love the idea but I think you should stagger the teeth of the two blades to avoid asking too much of your motor. When the teeth are offset, they don't cut at the same time, so the motor forces less.

bravo tres bon travail

bravo et quel belle idée merci Yves du Quebec

Awesome job brother

Hmmm . . . A basic dado set DIY style. Dado sets are stunningly common in the USA, not so much in the EU apparently. More shims in the center makes a wider groove/dado, obviously; using a variety of thicknesses can allow the dado width to be tuned to a desired width. Typically, a dado set is smaller diameter than the standard blade diameter for the saw to reduce the load on the motor due to the wider cut. A USA-style dado set comes with chipper-style wide shims to produce a flat bottom in wide dadoes; this could be emulated with a third blade. For this setup, a wider adapter hub would allow for more dado width; excess hub length could be accommodated by a recess machined into the saw's follower flange. Making the adapter's flange narrower would move the assembly closer to the motor for more thread engagement with the clamping nut if needed. Within reasonable limits, the greater mass of adding a second or third blade is not a problem for the saw motor - the issue to be aware of is the load from the cut width/depth and feed rate.

Bonjour. Cette modification est très dangereuse. Les lames "Dado" doivent êtres conçues et fabriquées de façon très précise. En particulier pour éviter les vibrations, le resserrement des lames entre elles suite aux vibrations (d'ou une entretoise assez grande en diamètre, mais pas trop pour permettre l'évacuation des copeaux), ou le resserrement des lames par le bois (en particulier le bois massif et surtout si comme vous il n'y a pas de couteau diviseur après la lame) se qui pourrait occasionner un retour forcé vers l'arrière et vous blesser ou plus grave. De même, les dentures sont spécialement étudiées pour limiter les accidents et optimiser la coupe. Je vous suggère de faire très très attention et de carrément investir dans un jeu de lames de bonne qualité et prévue pour cela ce qui sera plus rentable sur une machine peu puissante et moins risqué. Cordialement.

Je n'aurais pas fait le trou sur la barre mais apres avoir coupé le morceau

Question .. why not simply took a smaller Blade? or two .. 190X20 is a common size for Hand-Saws .. i mean the bearing are not made for two Blade, for the load .. but worth the try, .. but smaller blades are bit safer, less cuttingspeed on the Toth, lees work for the Motor and you dont need that cutting depth for that task

Very impressive end result. Is there a reason for using the saw vs a router with a 6mm bit? Is it just speed of cut?

Best regards from Norway. Did you tryed to wellding aluminium? I need some cheap wellding tool like this to wellding aluminum to aluminium and aluminium to brass. Thanks!

hei kan du lagge en ledningsnett til min Suzuki katana 1986 ? 😊

Be careful or you might get a tool dirty

I wonder if you could simply 3D print an adapter….

Great video, as always! I wonder if offsetting the sawteeth would be better for the teeth long term, but what do I know...? Also thought the blades would be better off with rubber between them (instead of a metal washer) to prevent them from spinning, Again what do I know...? If it works, it works! Good job!

Death trap 😂 Love it!!!

For future spinning wheels of death modifications, motorcycle gear provides lost of abrasion resistance!

I really admire the effort here but were you not able to source a 6mm grooving blade for your saw?

When the lathe is running, you should NEVER pick up swarf with your fingers, use a pliers. If the swarf happens to catch on the moving part just as you grab it, it can slice your hand very badly.

Hahaha.... that little celebration at the end. I would normally say this is not a good idea, but then it striked me? why not? Love the details in this video Hestad, and the lathe... is so damn satisfying to watch 🙈 but 200 meters of wood with groves? I'm curious to see what that is for. 🤩

Hi I’m also building a cafe racer but the traditional way as i remember them .with what you can beg steal or make it yourself.as long as it looks good and I’m happy. All the fun is. doing it yourself so do your own thing and be proud when it’s finished . Yours is looking great to me. Bertie

So, maybe a little late with this information, but you don't have the äggkartonger... everybody knows you need äggkartonger to sound insulate.. every 14 year old aspiring rock drummer knows that...

silent oilless compressor is shit that last nothing, it's only for occasional usage.

specific use case: not getting hearing damage. But you've really got to ventilate the hell out of such an enclosure, and then you run into the challenge of getting air in and out without the sound leaking out. Far better - if you have the space and the money - to put it in a shed.

If you want a quiet compressor buy a hydrovane and call it done I can whisper louder than a hydrovane 😂

Very nice and tidy work! I'm using Your links to buy this myself. Thanks for the explanation, the video and the links! 👍

my fork is too low. so i added a piece of pvc pipe on top. the problem now is its too hard and it hurts my back. i think there is a lowering spacer that i have to remove at the bottom.

Ops sorry 6db are twice as high not 10db

Very neat job! I just fitted a 60cm x 60cm LED light panel in my garage. Really bright, white light and minimal shadows, too. Gotta love LEDs!

Don't bother - it's the air intake that makes the noise - put a big muffler on that and done.

DO NOT FORGET FIRE. Running hotter in enclosed space and cannot visually check. It will take much longer to realise fire. I would suggest a box outside, steel, concrete, and MDF foam is safe. Have a door you can open for access. You need to be able to reach power switch and air valve quickly. Otherwise it will use a lot of power and wear out quickly.

how to drain the water from the vase? seems like a nightmare 😅 and I get it... the loud noise sucks

You could create "folding shelves" with a hinge at the bottom, utilizing the space between the roof beams. Inside each shelf, you could store items in "bed rollers." This setup works best for smaller items or tools, which are often plentiful in a garage. When you fold a shelf down, it would rest on the storage unit on the opposite side, allowing easy access to the bed roller and its contents. (hope this made some sens)

Top tip from an Engelskmann i Norge... LED in English you actually say the letters L - E - D otherwise you will confuse us simpletons with lead, not a dog lead (bånd), but lead as in the heavy metal Pb / bly 😂

I recently completed a similar project in my garage a few weeks ago. Ceiling is 9' 4" or about 3M high so I grossly underestimated how much light I would need. So I did just as you did and made 3 strips of the same LED as you used in this project and that made a big difference. My mistake was not considering the lumens/foot and the light quality for my work space. My next project is to make an LED strip to light my wood lathe and the workpiece without blinding me "the wood worker". Love the channel and your work, God Bless :)

Um, is it out of line to say that you should toss that compressor in the garbage?