Instead of two threads, build a single one with a right/left thread. It will tighten with one crank and self-center. You can make that on the lathe, just use brass if steel is too annoying to machine. For the top, a C-clamp type thing would be good. Or just omit the vertical part and use a separate part to keep the bike from tipping over. I'm thinking something with two struts to the sides of the table and an inverted V-shape that goes on top of the tire and can slide on both struts until locked.
I thought about it 😬 I need to practice my turning skills first, but that would have been a cool project 😎 Many good suggestions here, I did actually try using a c-clamp as you suggested. Strangely enough it did not help much, then I found a problem I had not thought about at all 😳
This was absolutely perfect entertainment on a late Saturday evening with a good beer 🙌🏻 your visual storytelling and vocal storytelling is becoming better and better and I find it really enjoying to follow along on these projects. Where do you get all the ideas 😂 Really well done my friend, and I'm really looking forward to see what .2 looks like 👌🏻using I vice is alike cooking bacon without a t-shirt 😆
Aha, is something I need to test. Thanks for the tips 👍 3D prints as welding support is very useful, It melts around 200° Celsius so cannot be too close to the actual welding.
always great to watch you work! i am no designer or engineer...but...what about some telescopic stays across the top of both clamps or across the front, although that would stop you getting the wheel to poke through for sufficient clamping.
Condor (brand or knock-off) wheel chock for initial loading, then tie-downs for stability. I use tie-downs even with the front wheel clamps because I've seen too many bikes fall over the years while in shops (usually while someone's pushing or pulling on them, but for a minutes extra work it seems silly not to). Besides the twisting of the sides when loaded, it seems cumbersome to balance the bike while you move to the other side to tighten the second side. This is the main reason you have 1 side fixed in position. You could address this with a gearbox and second shaft so both sides wind together at the same time, in parallel... but I think it's easier/smarter use of time to just use a wheel chock.
That sounds smart! I would not trust a front stand like this as the only way to secure the bike either. I normally use a rear a rear stand, the front stand is there just to hold the bike so I get get on the rear stand. It's not necessary to tighten both sides after the bike is loaded. One side is preset just to get the bike centered. The other side is set with a small gap to get the wheel in between, and only that side needs to be tighten after the bike is loaded. It will be exactly the same as if one side is fixed, and the other adjustable, only difference here is that you can also "adjust the fixed side" and select what side you want to set as the fixed side and what to use as the adjustable side. I think the problem is that both sides are a bit "wiggly" now, I need them to be more in parallel - I think.... 🤔
What a great video, really enjoyed that. For what its worth, it looks pretty darn cool! Could somesort of spring help to keep the clamp in a straight angle? Cant wait for V2.0
An another excellent video, showing great detail as usual. If the tyre grip had a foot that protruded forward it would prevent the clamp from rocking over when loading.
Ki, I sincerely appreciate your builds. Especially the objectives and design decisions. If you do build a version 2.0 you might look at a Pingel Cylce Jaws for ideas, its what I put on my hydraulic lift table. With that said I think you could just make a small change or two to what you have built. It looks very solid, my motorcycle will also move sided to side in the Pingel like yours does before I put straps on or center support. All the best, Chris
Hi, almost everything I used in this video is from Biltema. They have sheet metal, square and round pipes, flat and L-shaped bars. It's not expensive either. It's somewhat hidden in their stores, a hidden secret 😁 The big pipe (30mm) I used in the video was from a construction site, just a lucky find 😏
The most annoying thing about this is I have the same lift table... Had it for a few years, and now it feels so interior! In my defence, I can't upgrade the wheels, it's got a motorcycle on it!
Hehe, if you don't move it around much then it's probably OK. I would not be without, I move it around all the time. The new wheels are just fabulous 😍
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | Survival Stage วันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FVFT-PFwU80/mqdefault.jpg)
Instead of two threads, build a single one with a right/left thread. It will tighten with one crank and self-center. You can make that on the lathe, just use brass if steel is too annoying to machine.
For the top, a C-clamp type thing would be good.
Or just omit the vertical part and use a separate part to keep the bike from tipping over. I'm thinking something with two struts to the sides of the table and an inverted V-shape that goes on top of the tire and can slide on both struts until locked.
I thought about it 😬 I need to practice my turning skills first, but that would have been a cool project 😎 Many good suggestions here, I did actually try using a c-clamp as you suggested. Strangely enough it did not help much, then I found a problem I had not thought about at all 😳
One thing i would try and do is have the entry side of it angled. Seemed like you got hung up on the edges against the tires.
That is true. Yes, that's a good idea 🤔 Why did I not even think about that....
This was absolutely perfect entertainment on a late Saturday evening with a good beer 🙌🏻 your visual storytelling and vocal storytelling is becoming better and better and I find it really enjoying to follow along on these projects. Where do you get all the ideas 😂 Really well done my friend, and I'm really looking forward to see what .2 looks like 👌🏻using I vice is alike cooking bacon without a t-shirt 😆
Glad u liked it 😊 I was a bit disappointed with the end result, but I bet version 2.0 will be perfect 😬🤞
you need some retractable wheels next
@@mickbetts2176 I'll think about it 😊
Galvanize is easy to get rid of. Just immerse in household vinegar for a couple of days and it is gone! Your welding jig idea is awesome.
Aha, is something I need to test. Thanks for the tips 👍 3D prints as welding support is very useful, It melts around 200° Celsius so cannot be too close to the actual welding.
always great to watch you work! i am no designer or engineer...but...what about some telescopic stays across the top of both clamps or across the front, although that would stop you getting the wheel to poke through for sufficient clamping.
I think that is a good idea 💡 I have thought about it myself as well 😊
Condor (brand or knock-off) wheel chock for initial loading, then tie-downs for stability. I use tie-downs even with the front wheel clamps because I've seen too many bikes fall over the years while in shops (usually while someone's pushing or pulling on them, but for a minutes extra work it seems silly not to).
Besides the twisting of the sides when loaded, it seems cumbersome to balance the bike while you move to the other side to tighten the second side. This is the main reason you have 1 side fixed in position. You could address this with a gearbox and second shaft so both sides wind together at the same time, in parallel... but I think it's easier/smarter use of time to just use a wheel chock.
That sounds smart! I would not trust a front stand like this as the only way to secure the bike either. I normally use a rear a rear stand, the front stand is there just to hold the bike so I get get on the rear stand.
It's not necessary to tighten both sides after the bike is loaded. One side is preset just to get the bike centered. The other side is set with a small gap to get the wheel in between, and only that side needs to be tighten after the bike is loaded. It will be exactly the same as if one side is fixed, and the other adjustable, only difference here is that you can also "adjust the fixed side" and select what side you want to set as the fixed side and what to use as the adjustable side.
I think the problem is that both sides are a bit "wiggly" now, I need them to be more in parallel - I think.... 🤔
Great work
Thanks 🙏
What a great video, really enjoyed that. For what its worth, it looks pretty darn cool! Could somesort of spring help to keep the clamp in a straight angle? Cant wait for V2.0
An another excellent video, showing great detail as usual. If the tyre grip had a foot that protruded forward it would prevent the clamp from rocking over when loading.
Thanks Ryan 🙏 I think your idea is just what I will do to improve it. Easy and it should be efficient 😊
Ki, I sincerely appreciate your builds. Especially the objectives and design decisions. If you do build a version 2.0 you might look at a Pingel Cylce Jaws for ideas, its what I put on my hydraulic lift table. With that said I think you could just make a small change or two to what you have built. It looks very solid, my motorcycle will also move sided to side in the Pingel like yours does before I put straps on or center support. All the best, Chris
Thanks for the feedback and for the tips! I will take a look at Pingel Cycle Jaws, they sound beefy 😊
I have a simmilar table, and my clamp does not turn. You are welcome to have a look if you like
I guess you mean the clamp does not turn forward when you get the wheel in between? Your clamp is not like my old one?
Great vid as always Ki
Thanks 🙏
Love the videos! But where do you get the metal from? Asking as a fellow Norwegian looking for raw materials for his own projects!
Hi, almost everything I used in this video is from Biltema. They have sheet metal, square and round pipes, flat and L-shaped bars. It's not expensive either. It's somewhat hidden in their stores, a hidden secret 😁 The big pipe (30mm) I used in the video was from a construction site, just a lucky find 😏
@@kihestad Thank you ^^ Yeah, never seen anything other than threaded rods and l brackets!
Cool hair cut.
It had to be done 😁
@@kihestad I like your channel very much. Subscripted!
@@christophermikrowelle7093 Thanks! 😊
If you push the bike from right side, u have both brakes at your side of the bike…
I more or less always push the bike standing on the left side, I guess because there is where the side rest is located
The most annoying thing about this is I have the same lift table... Had it for a few years, and now it feels so interior!
In my defence, I can't upgrade the wheels, it's got a motorcycle on it!
Hehe, if you don't move it around much then it's probably OK. I would not be without, I move it around all the time. The new wheels are just fabulous 😍
@@kihestad it doesn't move much, but it does have to move across wooden boards of an inspection pit, so bigger wheels really would help!
Gillar att du kör din grej in i kaklet. Respekt! Är inte alls intresserad av motorcyklar, ändå kollar jag
Det var roligt å høre 😊 det blir nok en del motorsykkel-fix videoer nå fram til sesongstart, bara så att du är varnad 😏
@@kihestadkommer fortsätta följa din kanal ändå, nu när jag är hooked 😆👍🏻