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hello I decided to make this printer according to your instructions. I hope I can use your great tutorials. thanks

if you turn the open frame to the bottom you dont need a third hand. And why not placing the nuts for the rails in before you close it???

Thank's very much for your tutos (even more for the videos with speach instead of written comments). I am finishing to mount my 1st Voron 2.4 350x350 and wish to install nozzle clean and I am wondering if it would not be more practical to install it in front instead of back; what could be the draw-back ? (I use the CAN bus version and sensorless homing)

Hi guys, my motor Z1 is not moving by test. Any things what should i try?

You have the best videos for the voron 2.4 R2 build I have seen and will be folowing them on my build. I am a 70 year young guy keeping my mind sharp Thanks for what you have done. I kinda like the text version but the your voice is OK also

31k views. The manual sucks.

even till this day you’re helping people out with this video thanks a lot man🙏

Don't need a thermal paste? Just asking, voron is my second printer after ender 3 s1 pro. I changed to triangle lab HF hotend and thermal paste was applied. Curious why manual didn't state for this

The voiceover was fine. No need to be nervous.

6:12 thanks Scott. This video actually gave me the confidence to turn my machine on! It worked. Obviously I’ve watched these videos dozens of times to make sure I am being safe and checking things over and over. Great content!

Old vid, but I wanted to lend a tip I recently figured out... the insulated end on crimps comes off, so before crimping pull it off and slip it onto the wire like you would heat-shrink, then crimp and put the insulated piece back over the crimp end!

Short answer Please continue to have written directions with voiceover. I prefer the video to have full written directions that you have had in past but the voice over is great and warm not monotone. Simply said: I see your name I stop to watch the video and have faith in the content - you sir are an inspiration. longer answer: I followed your video's for my voron 2.4r2 350 build and the build was smooth - I am a bit slow on the programming and it was a paper weight for 18 months, but asked for help and someone got it running for me, currently watching all your video's and printing parts for the lights now but the scrubber is way up on the list. I appreciate your written text on all your video's and am learning so much - Klipper and pi are a heck of learning curve for me. I appreciate that you have dummied it down to beginner level so to speak, I can copy your process while learning so it is very appreciated. And there is so much more to learn. Thank you, thank you , thank you

23:25 pour moi la mise à la terre est totalement inutile sur le cadre, il faudrait enlever la peinture sur chaque partie en contact

Awesome video, really helped! I had a few issues setting up and this is what I found. 1. couldn't create the firmware for the board with cmd promt, and get the serial code. Ended having to use winscp and putty to properly flash the printer. 2. The most recent printer config doesn't have z1 stepper enabled. have to remove hash for enable_pin: PA0 or PA2 depending on your octopus board. 3. All my stepper motors were running in the opposite directions. You have to remove or add "!" in front at dir_pin 4. endstop_pin was open when supposed to be closed. Same as above you have to add or remove the "!" at endstop_pin I used your video in conjunction with Voron Design start up instructions

The voice over is greatly appreciated! I usually listen to these videos before watching. You could always have a bot read your notes.

Hey Scott thank you so much, really saved my nervs and time. Going through you Step by Step Videos.

Yery helpful, thank you!

I have seen many of your videos, what makes you one of the best at explaining things is that you assume that your audience knows nothing, you answer all the questions before they are asked, you are the best!

Thanks, nice tutorial. Did the routing a bit different, same outcome. Pretty corny music, tho..... (sorry.... 😅)

voice over is great. your vids were instrumental to my R2.4 build. thank you again!

I am an engineer and I haven’t touched normal wire stripper for years. The “cheap” automatic wire strippers can strip any wire you can come across perfectly except high voltage wires as they are too thick to fit in and you usually use a utility knife to strip those anyways. You just need to adjust the tension correctly by adjusting the thumbscrew. Insulated crimps are better and are easier to crimp and have higher crimping pressure than non-insulated crimps, you just need the right tool to crimp them.

whats the bore for accessories, pls

I followed all your Voron videos, I must say these where more helpful than any other video on TH-cam, thank you very much, we need follow up videos on what you have been doing lately

I printed these parts and it two small fans does not fit.

First of all, thanks so much for your videos it really helps, I had a question, here 4:33 you used a NEMA 17 motor 17HS08-1004s, but my Excel sheet I downloaded from VORON website shows a NEMA14 Motor 36STH20-1004AHG, I don't get it, are they look the same or something is wrong with my parts list?

Thanks , great video !

Thanks for the video, Love your way in the demonstration 😅

PSA for anyone going through this smart enough to check comments first (not me apparently) (1) ~ 20:00 you're told to preload 3 nuts in the right extrusion, you need to preload 3 to both vertical extrusions. (2) Instead of using tape to hold the carriages if you have the little stoppers on the linear rails you can move them from the outside holes to the next one in on each side, then when i added the printed railstops i moved them both to the opposite side just for a little redundancy and piece of mind. Tape didn't want to stick to my just lubed rails. (3) Instead of the printed "no drop nuts" i just added an m6 screw to the 2 outer nuts and lightly tightened to hold them all in until they're needed. Mostly doing this as i didn't preprint the no drops and it's working well so far. Time will tell if i need to go back and print them later on. At least they're small and quick if so. If i come across anything else that might help I'll try to add them in the other parts. All in all this is a *great* guide, one of the shorter ones I've watched so far without a whole lot of filler eating up time which is why it's the one playing while i do the actual build. Thanks for that! Bonus tip: if you have a regular printer or access to one print the manual to have as a reference as you go to help spot issues like the one mentioned around 20:00 in. GL

if you right click and "open" it just prompts you if you want to open the app instead of move to trash, no need to go into terminal

when i type the command ls /dev/serial/by-id i get no such file or directory

I'm currently building a Voron and several of your videos have been very helpful. I like your style with the music and text rather than narration. It's different and you make it work. Thanks for uploading these videos!

Hello, I have just tested the new version but for the moment (with bltouch therefore) it takes up my entire tray even for small parts and purges it to 0, I am trying to see what the problem is but it is hard to find x) Is there nothing else to do? I have the purge which is done next to the room in addition, I don't understand xD

You mentioned in the G32 part "the second important home all"? I deleted that homing some time ago because I thought it was unnecessary. Can you or somebody else elaborate?

Hey @Scott great video, what are the instructions to get the plexiglass dimensions. I am trying to get them made But for 300 voron 2.4r2 also how thick are you sheets? I would appricieate the light :)

I cam across this handy tool that I'm sure will interest you. Just look for omnifixo. I'm building my voron and found your videos very clear and detailed with closeup. Great!. Planing on adding tapchanger later on. Thanks Scott

i got a "Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename error". Could you help with this?

Thanks a lot. Best tutorial. Very clear to follow with close up images. When the belts are tight you still move the gantry. You are not scared to fry the motors that are turning along with the belts?

Love your videos thank you!!

my rails were a royal pain in the a*se, had to use 15mm bolts and widen the gaps in the rail as that was only 3mm, got there in the end

Help me , please!!!. I have error :"MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out of range This generally occurs when a heater temperature exceeds its .. I put in a new thermistor, a new heating element but it still gives the error

Is there a way to control the fan? Like I would want to use it when printing ASA but not when printing pla.

20 AWG is a bit overkill right? I have 24 AWG and I believe that should support the current just fine (~ 0.8 Amp). Commenting for sanity check.

Thank you so much for showing all procedures in very detail manner! I could built one without problem!

Isn't the SSR supposed to be grounded too?

I forgot from printer building just how much core xy belts are the biggest pain in the butt ever

Thank you for doing this series, everyone else seems to have done the videos as a series of live streams, and the constant stopping to interact with the chat drives me nuts lol

Thank you Scott !

Thank you so much, because of your excellent guidance I got past my fear of doing the mains wiring, completed it, tested it and its working!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Also, what does this mean? Malformed command 'STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper x'