Maybe, but it is what the community does as a backup if the adhesive fails. My current one is edge to edge and you can't use RTV. In general I show what the Voron community as a whole thinks is correct so it's not just my opinion. It probably is overkill, but at least at the time it was done it was the standard.
@@scottcorn But it's not. I've been in the community since it started, and have never heard of HALF the things you're doing in these videos. Most are ridiculous. For instance, your mess of ground terminals all stacked up in another one of your videos. Officially, you wago them. You never stack up 6 ring terminals like that for a proper ground. Not ever.
thanks again for your video :) one thing that I do not understand. On your power connection on octopus, I see only 2 red wires and 2 black coming from the PSU, but on the manual, you can see 3 for both. Can you explain ?
@@scottcorn Is there a particular reason it doesn't just use the bed output to actuate the SSR but instead uses the second hotend output (which is powered by main board power)?
did you ever connect the bed in & bed out? per manual it’s confusing since it tells me to bridge motor power & bed in power but we’re using an ssr so the output of ssr is to the HE1 on my mainboard. from my understanding the bed in/out is if we’re connecting the bed directly to the mainboard without the ssr correct? thank you for your videos! they helped a lot & i don’t think i would of finished as fast without your help, thank you
The output HE1 OUT is used to turn the SSR on and off. This is low power DC. The other side of the SSR has the hot side of the AC that powers the bed heater. When the HE1 turns the SSR on it allows AC current to flow through the bed heater. You would have to have a low power DC bed heater to go directly off of HE1. Is this what you are asking?
The green indicator that you see in my video is VCC 12v is good. Still trying to figure out why yours would be off. I'll make a post of the indicator leds.
What kind of board does the formbot come with? It should at least run with one of the configs from here that match the board: docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/configuration.html Or is it running just not well?
@@scottcorn thank you. i was blind and did not find the file on git:) thank you. Short compliments to your videos as well. They are very detailed and stand out a lot from the other builds.
The videos are great but MAN the super slow animated long "this step requires" is a torture, this shouldn't animate for more than few frames and be shown for no more than 2 seconds...
Pro tip when crimping those connectors, never crimp them with all the force you're able to muster. You should only crimp it so far that if you release the crimping pliers open by themselves. Else you indeed damage the insolation and possibly even the connection you made :)
I agree. The biggest issue with this connection is the fuse is a much thinner gauge than the 16 AWG it is connecting to. I over compensated trying to crimp a too large connector.
@@scottcorn yeah, it's difficult. I'm also building my first 2.4 and I'm having the same issue. I think it's a bit of a design oversight (or lack of knowledge).
ok....how do i upvote this 100 times because of how amazing the step by step instructions are?
Thank you!
Fantastic work from you again! Im gonna carry on building from your videos… look forward to your next video again and again!
Thank you.
scott....really great work. such detail and great overall experience watching, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. You're welcome.
Been running a keenovo on a bed for over 6 years now. 1,000's of hours on it, never failed. That hack job you did at 18:00 is completely unneeded LOL
Maybe, but it is what the community does as a backup if the adhesive fails. My current one is edge to edge and you can't use RTV. In general I show what the Voron community as a whole thinks is correct so it's not just my opinion. It probably is overkill, but at least at the time it was done it was the standard.
@@scottcorn But it's not. I've been in the community since it started, and have never heard of HALF the things you're doing in these videos. Most are ridiculous. For instance, your mess of ground terminals all stacked up in another one of your videos. Officially, you wago them. You never stack up 6 ring terminals like that for a proper ground. Not ever.
Very nice crimping exactly what I was wondering how to do thanks for the help man
Glad I could help!
What did you end up doing for the Z Endstop?
I'm still using the standard Z endstop with Klicky. I have tap parts, but I don't know that it is any better.
thanks again for your video :) one thing that I do not understand. On your power connection on octopus, I see only 2 red wires and 2 black coming from the PSU, but on the manual, you can see 3 for both. Can you explain ?
The manual is incorrect. The heater bed does not need 24v in. (Confirmed on Voron Discord)) I didn't notice that it was done that way in the manual.
@@scottcorn Is there a particular reason it doesn't just use the bed output to actuate the SSR but instead uses the second hotend output (which is powered by main board power)?
did you ever connect the bed in & bed out? per manual it’s confusing since it tells me to bridge motor power & bed in power but we’re using an ssr so the output of ssr is to the HE1 on my mainboard. from my understanding the bed in/out is if we’re connecting the bed directly to the mainboard without the ssr correct? thank you for your videos! they helped a lot & i don’t think i would of finished as fast without your help, thank you
The output HE1 OUT is used to turn the SSR on and off. This is low power DC. The other side of the SSR has the hot side of the AC that powers the bed heater. When the HE1 turns the SSR on it allows AC current to flow through the bed heater. You would have to have a low power DC bed heater to go directly off of HE1. Is this what you are asking?
well done.Im build my voron with you. You know why there are only red leds on my octo Board??
I'm trying to get some information on it now. I wasn't able to find any documentation on the indicator leds. I'll let you know what I find out.
The green indicator that you see in my video is VCC 12v is good. Still trying to figure out why yours would be off. I'll make a post of the indicator leds.
Can you test to see if it is getting 12 volts out? I could be that the LED may just be bad. There doesn't seem to be a way to turn off the 12v.
Jak na razie octopus generuje zły numer seryjny dla printer.cfg i nie wiem czyto nie powód
sorry. so far octopus is generating wrong serial number for printer.cfg and I don't know if that's not the reason
What does this mean? Malformed command 'STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper x'
I ended up connecting my thermal fuse with Wago connectors so it can easily be removed if it blows.
Sounds good. I was just afraid the Wago would melt. Probably just worrying about something that won't happen. lol
@@scottcorn If you're concerned either tie them up so they don't come in contact with the bed or don't run the bed above 105°C.
does anyone have any idea if there is already a working klipper printer.cfg for formbot? i can't find one and i can't get mine to run-.-.
What kind of board does the formbot come with? It should at least run with one of the configs from here that match the board:
docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/configuration.html
Or is it running just not well?
@@scottcorn thank you. i was blind and did not find the file on git:) thank you. Short compliments to your videos as well. They are very detailed and stand out a lot from the other builds.
No Problem.
used exactly same thermal compound for mine :D
:D
The videos are great but MAN the super slow animated long "this step requires" is a torture, this shouldn't animate for more than few frames and be shown for no more than 2 seconds...
I'll see what I can do.
Pro tip when crimping those connectors, never crimp them with all the force you're able to muster. You should only crimp it so far that if you release the crimping pliers open by themselves. Else you indeed damage the insolation and possibly even the connection you made :)
I agree. The biggest issue with this connection is the fuse is a much thinner gauge than the 16 AWG it is connecting to. I over compensated trying to crimp a too large connector.
@@scottcorn yeah, it's difficult. I'm also building my first 2.4 and I'm having the same issue. I think it's a bit of a design oversight (or lack of knowledge).