For anyone reading this in the future, at 6:59 shows Z Chain Retainer and then the Z Chain Bottom Anchor, as of Fen 23, 2022 don't be concerned if your printed parts look different. The brackets and anchor each have 1 hole. Thank you Scott for these great guides!
I am at the same point! Have to put my chains on tomorrow. I dreaded trying to figure out the bit with the limited instructions. Thanks for the video. Though I have already done the software load and procured a pre-made harness.
17:53 - Apparently the designations are the other way around (have a look at the molex web site): • Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 _receptacles_ are those who look like a power plug with the more elongated and thiner plastic parts. Female crimps go with them. • Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 _plugs_ are the square ones. Male crimps go with them.
You are correct I called the receptacle and plug backwards. I've always used the males in the plug and females in the receptacles. (Male in female looking housing and female in male looking housing) I think the pictures and how they appear to be aligned with each other on the main micro-fit 3.0 page is wonky. I've seen the way I'm describing in several places, but quickly I only found it here: www.mouser.com/new/molex/molexmicrofit3/ Play the video on that page and check how they show it. Let me know what you think. I don't want to keep doing it wrong and I absolutely named them backwards.
@@scottcorn No the important is that in the end you land on your feet ;) because it appears you use the correct crimps with their intended plastic inserts. You just mislabelled receptacle for plug (I would have done it too, since the receptacle has the shape of a plug!). So everything is ok I think.
Thanks for the video , just a quick point in regards to the probe , you can run all 3 pins from the same port, in your board which I have in my voron , there are three small jumpers above it for voltage ,
Yes, I agree and you are correct. I did it the way I did the because the regular octopus probe port implementation doesn't work with all probes (I'm told). This standard method using a diode is easier and more consistent when I don't know what probe everyone is using. Some of the things I do are more for the viewers of the video than my actual implementation.
Thank you. I'm trying to get the latest out yet tonight. We have heavy rain and thunder right now so I can't film. Hopefully it will lighten up otherwise it may be tomorrow.
Hi Scott, Thanks for the video have been waiting for it. Can you please explain how did you hide the wires from the left back drive motor on the x/y axis. Thanks
They go up into the bottom extrusion opening. You use a 2020 profile slot cover to hold it in. I only had 3030 slot cover at the time so I’m going to show it in the next video.
Hi again Scott, In the manual (Voron 2.4R2 Assembly Manual ) slide # 233. It shows that the Z drag chain support should be on the left side. Idk if it makes a difference.
I'm still not 100% sure how I power my PI, I will definitely use the GPIO header tho. What I will do most likely is I will buy some sort of connector with PCB and screw terminal, and the GPIO connector shall have at least 2x5 header, this way it will stay on securely, the more pins the tighter it will sit on. There surely has to be some RPI power hat like that.
Sorry for replying slow. Had some storm damage from Friday I had to repair yesterday. Keep in mind that going through the USB like I did does have the benefit of being fused. I do see this: thepihut.com/products/gpio-screw-terminal-hat No experience with it.
14:00 - The 10x10 chains from the MagicStudio (now MagicPhoenix) 2.4 kit I ordered do not have any opening! 😑 This, plus the facts they forgot the MISC PART box as well as the hotend box (and its heater cartridge, and its thermistor…) And despite the MS kit is considerably more expensive than a Forbot or Fysetc kit = a lucid nightmare on mine!
So the chain was fixed? That would suck having to shove all the wires through! I've seen those type chains on aliexpress. My chains are China chains and could be better, but they have actually done the job. At this point I don't want to pay for the more expensive ones. I may regret that later. lol
@@scottcorn Indeed. The 10x15 chain is openable though. The two 10x10 chains aren't. My kit was $1,227.36 including shipping (to EU). It was supposed to be "high end". At this point I don't advice people to buy so-called "high-end" kits from Chinese vendors, even if they are well known. Go with a cheaper one: in all cases there will be problems that you'll need to fix yourself. But when they occur, they are a bit more acceptable if you paid less.
I agree. I self sourced mine, but that was two years ago. I had to build my little shop I film in before I could start my build. Shipping was still free on small parts back then and it was a reasonable thing to do.
Dear Scott, i'm finalized my mechanical build of my Voroon 2.4 Formbot wir Octopus Card. Now i have to start the wiring. I was not able to find wiringthe official document (on the voron homepage) which you showed in your video at 14:46 -> I mean where you showed the cabling of the Hotend at page 224 of an offical Voron Documentation (which i not able to find). Can you provide me the link to this documentation !? Thanks in advance for your help! Br Holger
Here are the links to the documents I used: docs.vorondesign.com/build/mechanical/#:~:text=V2.4r2%20Assembly%20Manual docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/v2_octopus_wiring.html github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20Octopus%20-%20PIN.pdf
@@scottcorn Dear Scott, thanks. Meantime, i understood, why i didnt found the page 224. You are using the Voron 2.4R2 Assembly Manual. I had used the older revision! There is an slight difference to the older mounting version, example: the hall sensor is not mentioned. I'll correct this in my setup. With the wiring to the octopus board i made now good progress. Only few cables still left, which i have to mount.
As I understand it they should have a common ground. The voltage difference isn't an issue. A DC ground will only go back it's own ground. If they don't have a common ground you run the risk of potential measurement issues depending on the circuits drawing power from it.
Yea first experience with these molex micro connectors. My opinion is they are complete trash. I cannot seem to get them to stay in the connector. Maybe me but this has been the only frustrating part so far
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
For anyone reading this in the future, at 6:59 shows Z Chain Retainer and then the Z Chain Bottom Anchor, as of Fen 23, 2022 don't be concerned if your printed parts look different. The brackets and anchor each have 1 hole.
Thank you Scott for these great guides!
You are welcome!
Really love your videos. Best in depth videos of voron 2.4. Hope you make new one for 2.4 R2. And I'm looking forward for you to complete 0.2 R1
I got lost between the fans and the inductive probe, maybe some expansion here would be good-but amazing stuff Scott. Thank you.
I am at the same point! Have to put my chains on tomorrow. I dreaded trying to figure out the bit with the limited instructions. Thanks for the video. Though I have already done the software load and procured a pre-made harness.
No problem. The generic chains are working better with the wires in them now.
17:53 - Apparently the designations are the other way around (have a look at the molex web site):
• Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 _receptacles_ are those who look like a power plug with the more elongated and thiner plastic parts. Female crimps go with them.
• Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 _plugs_ are the square ones. Male crimps go with them.
You are correct I called the receptacle and plug backwards.
I've always used the males in the plug and females in the receptacles. (Male in female looking housing and female in male looking housing)
I think the pictures and how they appear to be aligned with each other on the main micro-fit 3.0 page is wonky. I've seen the way I'm describing in several places, but quickly I only found it here:
www.mouser.com/new/molex/molexmicrofit3/
Play the video on that page and check how they show it.
Let me know what you think. I don't want to keep doing it wrong and I absolutely named them backwards.
@@scottcorn No the important is that in the end you land on your feet ;) because it appears you use the correct crimps with their intended plastic inserts. You just mislabelled receptacle for plug (I would have done it too, since the receptacle has the shape of a plug!). So everything is ok I think.
Thanks for the video , just a quick point in regards to the probe , you can run all 3 pins from the same port, in your board which I have in my voron , there are three small jumpers above it for voltage ,
Yes, I agree and you are correct.
I did it the way I did the because the regular octopus probe port implementation doesn't work with all probes (I'm told). This standard method using a diode is easier and more consistent when I don't know what probe everyone is using. Some of the things I do are more for the viewers of the video than my actual implementation.
Very detailed like all the others.
We are waiting now for software installation
Thank you
Thank you
Man, I really like your videos. Well detailled. I'm really waiting for the next :)
Thank you. I'm trying to get the latest out yet tonight. We have heavy rain and thunder right now so I can't film. Hopefully it will lighten up otherwise it may be tomorrow.
Hi Scott, Thanks for the video have been waiting for it. Can you please explain how did you hide the wires from the left back drive motor on the x/y axis. Thanks
They go up into the bottom extrusion opening. You use a 2020 profile slot cover to hold it in. I only had 3030 slot cover at the time so I’m going to show it in the next video.
@@scottcorn Ok great Thanks
Hi again Scott,
In the manual (Voron 2.4R2 Assembly Manual
) slide # 233. It shows that the Z drag chain support should be on the left side. Idk if it makes a difference.
I started out on that side from seeing that in the manual. It seems to work better on the right side. I see it on both sides in pictures.
I'm still not 100% sure how I power my PI, I will definitely use the GPIO header tho.
What I will do most likely is I will buy some sort of connector with PCB and screw terminal, and the GPIO connector shall have at least 2x5 header, this way it will stay on securely, the more pins the tighter it will sit on.
There surely has to be some RPI power hat like that.
Sorry for replying slow. Had some storm damage from Friday I had to repair yesterday.
Keep in mind that going through the USB like I did does have the benefit of being fused.
I do see this:
thepihut.com/products/gpio-screw-terminal-hat
No experience with it.
14:00 - The 10x10 chains from the MagicStudio (now MagicPhoenix) 2.4 kit I ordered do not have any opening! 😑
This, plus the facts they forgot the MISC PART box as well as the hotend box (and its heater cartridge, and its thermistor…)
And despite the MS kit is considerably more expensive than a Forbot or Fysetc kit
= a lucid nightmare on mine!
So the chain was fixed? That would suck having to shove all the wires through! I've seen those type chains on aliexpress.
My chains are China chains and could be better, but they have actually done the job. At this point I don't want to pay for the more expensive ones.
I may regret that later. lol
@@scottcorn Indeed. The 10x15 chain is openable though. The two 10x10 chains aren't. My kit was $1,227.36 including shipping (to EU). It was supposed to be "high end". At this point I don't advice people to buy so-called "high-end" kits from Chinese vendors, even if they are well known. Go with a cheaper one: in all cases there will be problems that you'll need to fix yourself. But when they occur, they are a bit more acceptable if you paid less.
I agree. I self sourced mine, but that was two years ago. I had to build my little shop I film in before I could start my build. Shipping was still free on small parts back then and it was a reasonable thing to do.
do you need a specific usb c / mini connector for this to work? i have one and tested the cable continuity and it works....but doesnt power the pi....
Tytanic job done! many thanks!
You are welcome.
Dear Scott, i'm finalized my mechanical build of my Voroon 2.4 Formbot wir Octopus Card. Now i have to start the wiring. I was not able to find wiringthe official document (on the voron homepage) which you showed in your video at 14:46 -> I mean where you showed the cabling of the Hotend at page 224 of an offical Voron Documentation (which i not able to find). Can you provide me the link to this documentation !?
Thanks in advance for your help! Br Holger
Here are the links to the documents I used:
docs.vorondesign.com/build/mechanical/#:~:text=V2.4r2%20Assembly%20Manual
docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/v2_octopus_wiring.html
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20Octopus%20-%20PIN.pdf
The Octopus manual is also helpful:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/blob/master/BIGTREETECH_Octopus_EN_updated_0719.pdf
@@scottcorn Dear Scott, thanks. Meantime, i understood, why i didnt found the page 224. You are using the Voron 2.4R2 Assembly Manual. I had used the older revision! There is an slight difference to the older mounting version, example: the hall sensor is not mentioned. I'll correct this in my setup.
With the wiring to the octopus board i made now good progress. Only few cables still left, which i have to mount.
Cool, you will get there.
Pro tip isolate grounds from 12 power supply/ 5v supply because it has different running amps watiges power supply
As I understand it they should have a common ground. The voltage difference isn't an issue. A DC ground will only go back it's own ground. If they don't have a common ground you run the risk of potential measurement issues depending on the circuits drawing power from it.
wow, impressive work
Thank you.
Yea first experience with these molex micro connectors. My opinion is they are complete trash. I cannot seem to get them to stay in the connector. Maybe me but this has been the only frustrating part so far
Muahahaha, I'm not responsible!! Zap!! U Dead!! Blahaha! Got Arc/Arch/Ark hehe :)
I have to CYA, lol
@@scottcorn indeed.