Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 7 Gantry Install, De-racking, Belt Tensioning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2022
- Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 7 Gantry Install, De-racking, Belt Tensioning
This is the seventh of several videos where I will build a Voron 2.4 350 and show step by step. This step finish and add the gantry, de-rack it and tension the belts. In this video I cover some parts that are left out of the current (1/22) V2.4 manual.
The build parts are from the sourcing guide recommended vendors.
I just started using DaVinci Resolve so I'm a noob at it. Let me know what I'm doing right and wrong please. I want to get better at this.
My mailing address if you want to send me something cool:
Scott Corn
5411 State Route 261 #622
Newburgh, IN. 47629
A Link to all Voron information:
www.vorondesign.com/
I use Polymaker ASA for most of my prints. Affiliate link.
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us.polymaker.com?aff=345
Tools I use with affiliate links. Helps me out costs you nothing.
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Thanks for the videos Cant wait for my kit to show up sp I can get started. Of all the build videos Ive watched, yours are the most enjoyable and entertaining as well as informative. Cant wait to see how this series ends. ThANKS FOR SHARING!!
Thank you. Glad you like them! I'm working the wiring right now.
Thanks a lot. Best tutorial. Very clear to follow with close up images. When the belts are tight you still move the gantry. You are not scared to fry the motors that are turning along with the belts?
Thanks so much for these videos, really appreciate the explanation and demonstration for squaring off the gantry and de-racking. Checking if my build is racked is something I have missed, will be going back to check this! Definitely seems like something that should be included thoroughly in the manual!
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice Tutorial, thank you!
Things I would change, if you have any mistakes in the build comment on the video or the last one so the person sees it before finishing the video. Show all needed parts at the beginning so everyone can prepare the parts and does not have to search for them every minute. And what I really like and what you can show more are shots from the part of every side at the end. It’s perfekt for checking it everything is right! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the tips!
This is a good idea. I pinned comments on the original videos that I've made changes to. Thanks again.
You are welcome! Just saw that you are allready working on the electrical part! I will wait with my build till your video releases! Thank you !
Thanks, you're videos are so helpful, best building videos I've seen.
You should definitely build a Voron 0.
Thank you. I would like to build more Vorons. We will have to see if I can afford it when the time comes.
Love it! Just finished my Zbelts over the weekend, and man was it a bear. Probably because I was using an older version of the manual, and held it up with zip ties. But geez, that older manual was kind of like having a brief overview of what you need to do, explained by someone who was burned out on it lol. Keep up the great work!
Thank you.
I worried that maybe I had done it a harder way. I know a lot attach the the Z lower to the slides first and then sit the gantry on top of them with the zip ties. It went pretty easy though. The only real issue was the back dropping when trying to level it all. The zip ties wedged in the motor belts took care of that. You have that issue regardless of the steps before. All in I was really happy with how it went.
Your voron build videos are the best!! Thank you :D
You are welcome and thank you
I 'm building a Voron 2.4 350 as well. The first 6 videos of this were rather helpful for me . This video was too late. I like the way Scott puts the necessary parts and tools on his table and name them. I stopped the videos at these moments and could arrange the tools, screws and every thing else and start my assembly of the modules. Often I just watched and had the Voron build manual in front of me and could now understand what the manual wants to tell me. Beside this, the video is a help for an not native English speaking person. I had the opportunity with this video, to identify the needed parts in the STL list. So sometimes I just listened to the videos in order to print my parts that I needed for the next step or just arranged what my printer could finish over night.
Right now my build is almost finished and I can prepare for the programming. Scott, if I can do you a favor do not hesitate to ask...
I really enjoyed your videos. Yours are my favorite ones. Good luck for your further build and geetings from Germany Dieter (lightnsound in discords landofschnitzel)
Thank you very much. I'm sitting here trying to design the wiring layout at the moment.
Honestly I've had printers for years, even successfully scratch built one a few years ago, but a big(and expensive) corexy was a little intimidating. Watching this, It's nowhere near as bad as I thought, and I signed up for the PIF(I don't have the capacity to print ABS I'm afraid....well not yet) tonight! Thanks for the great build series
Thank you and I think you will enjoy your build.
Videos are perfect and a little funny. Received the SSR holder yesterday, thank you. Yes please do mod videos as well.
Thank you. I have the parts for several mods.
Hey i was wondering when we can expect the next video to drop. thank you for the high quality content im following along on my build.
It will probably be late this weekend. I've changed my mind on a few things and parts are taking forever to get to me. I'm also going to have to break the wiring into two parts. I'm already at 20 minutes on the video and I've not even started the gantry wiring. lol I did a short primer on wires, connectors and tools relative to a Voron 2.4 on this video also.
Looking good 👍 been toying with an idea of getting a copper build plate (we make heavy-duty grounding equipment at work) for its superior thermal conductivity.
Also your graphics and editing are great.
Don’t think I’ve ever seen a copper build plate. Would you be able to get it as cast to keep stability?
Thank you. I’m a beginner with videos. I do have a lot of experience with graphics as a software engineer. I specialize in user interfaces.
@@scottcorn I don't think copper warps like other metals, but right now all the stock is for orders, but I just managed to find a 24"x48"x.375, 6061 T651 plate aluminum that I can get build plates for two 350's and the leftover will be for custom parts for my motorcycle, add it up and I think I got a good deal. 👍
Oh and I've made some alterations to the plug panel stl's and other parts to suit alternate components I've chosen, I didn't buy a kit I've sourced all the components myself. Can't wait to see yours come to life and mine will eventually😉
Sweet, been waiting for this.
Thank you
Finally. Long awaited
This one took a while. I took a break over the holidays. Trying to decide how I want to do the wiring at the moment.
@@scottcorn taking a break and spending quality time with family is must. You deserve it. Waiting for the next one.
dude this is useful stuff
Hopefully. Lol I’m looking forward to the electrical next. Thank you
But if you press during the building process on one of the gantry sides with your hand you have to turn again the respectiv motor to have the same distance on all sides between gantry and frame-top...?!
So I see you are using clicky endstops. Mine came with a hall effect. I looked at the manual on voron and it doesn't mention how or where to put the magnets and most videos just show the programming of them. What am I suppose to do? Do I glue in the magnets and on what parts? Is there an actual video on this out there I am missing? Great videos btw but I wish I knew what to do right now.
I've not used the hall effect stops. It kind of has a reputation for being a little inconsistent. I looked around and you are correct I didn't find much detail. On Discord there seems to be a lot of debate on where the magnet should go for the best consistency. From what I have seen there are modded printed parts that have a press fit hole for the magnet. Sorry, I'm not being very helpful. lol
Don't be sorry and thanks for the reply. I printed the parts but I wasn't sure about the magnets. I'll figure it out as I go along. Trial and error right!! Thanks again for the vids.
You are welcome.
How did you rotate the motors to level the gantry? I'm stuck at this step trying to de-rack.
You have to be careful, but just lift the gantry by pulling up on it at the extrusions. They want to fall back down, but if you wedge them like I show in the video they stay put. Some also hang them from the upper rails with large zip ties.
Also. if the motors won't move, make sure the wires from the motors aren't touching each other. If they are it may prevent the motor from moving. If you would happen to have wired, disconnect them. If they move they then aren't wired correctly.
I just realized I put on the belt tensioners on backwards. 2 hours of my life gone to backtrack and redo the belts and everything else.
It's easy get backwards.
wow some of those parts have some pretty bad underextrusion, where those self printed or by PIF?
These were mostly PIF. Must be the camera angle. None are under or over extruded.
Hi Scott. Very much appriciated for you job what you did! question, how did you achive the clearence between belt and side frame?
it is showed on linke below:
th-cam.com/video/fKhLS2cP4HE/w-d-xo.html
I have checked manual and cad file assembled 3d printer - there is 0 information about any clearence.
btw, i had tried to do as u suggested, but failed (foot/motor assebly), cannot regulate it or adjust :(
Thank you in advance!
Not a fan of this video but liked the others. Cutting to the tools and lingering on them so long and then changing the camera angle is disorienting. Then you skip many many steps it seems. The gantry just appears in the frame?
Fair enough.
okay hold on... did i miss something here? because "keep quarter turning until you are very close to the tension you want" is not an acceptable way to explain to someone how to tension these belts....
This is the best way I know to tell you. The phone app with belt tones has never really worked for me. If you check around most say not too tight and not too loose. I know not very helpful. It needs to feel tight without being too tight. Just tighten the belt slowly and when it stops feeling floppy give it another quarter turn.
Very nice but loose the polka music.
I almost put funk in as the music theme. Lol
I get bored of the music after after a lot of hours of editing. It’s hard for me to judge.
What kind of of music type should I use? Should it be lower volume?
I would think no music would be more boring?
Seriously, I get comments on the music and I would like to get several people’s ideas. (Not to discount your opinion LCD consultant)
@@scottcorn I like most of the music you picked except for the polka. The music is a little loud on my computer.
I struggle with volume. TH-cam wants -14 LUFS overall and I set the music to -24 LUFS when I do the final sound pass. I'll see if I can bring it down a little in the next.
It does seem a little loud to me in a browser also. In a app it seems low. lol I figure more watch in a browser than on an app. I use an app on my TV to watch most of my TH-cam.
@@scottcorn Do you buy the parts and put together the kits you sell on Ebay or are they already packaged for you? I just need that Sexbolt screw. I already have 2 of everything else.
I buy them as individual parts. I have about 300 of those. Contact me on Discord and we can figure it out. scorn#0711