Спасибо за подробное видео. Без лишнего трёпа и вместе с тем со всеми необходимыми нюансами. Очень помогает при первой сборке принтера. Собираю такой же по размерам принтер. Ещё раз спасибо и удачи!
Stated by many here already, but I too thank you for all the effort to record and edit this build. In my opinion you're absolutely hitting the sweet spot of extraordinary detail and clarity against the time to watch. Every episode I get more excited about building one too. I'm about 1/2 way in printing parts for the V0.1 build I plan to do first. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you. I have a few months worth of videos to make on this yet, but I'm already thinking about what to build next. Shipping from China and more so Misumi takes so long anymore. I have the parts for an OpenBuilds C-Beam Machine that I need to build. A Voron Trident also looks interesting. Not sure what others would be interested in.
Excellent instructional video! As others have said, this is like the video form of the manual. I love it. I am using your videos as I build my VORON at this very moment.
This is fantastic, Scott! There are many voron build series' out there, but none I have found are as instructional as yours. I think you must be the first to have taken the time to shoot and edit videos actually showing how to do the build step by step, as opposed to just building one with a camera rolling in the background. I look forward to seeing your wiring, firmware and tuning vids for the 2.4 in the future. Subscribed.
Watching this at 1am with noise cancelling headphones. @25:15 I panicked and looked around the room. Then had a good laugh, thanks for this well made video. Can’t wait to build my own.
When using a regular soldering tip use a heatset insert on the soldering tip it shortens the tip end and gives perspective on the depth of the insert you are inserting.
Thank you. www.amazon.com/Heat-Set-Inserts-Compatible-SP40NKUS-Connecting/dp/B08B17VQLD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=heat+set+insert+tool&qid=1635714826&sprefix=heat+set+insert%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMFRTMTVWQUYwTDg0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDk3MjA2QjZYSFlPWUdRWjg0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MTg1MTkyMFJCSkJXUkUzVlRQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Virtjoule makes them. I think he may sell just the 3mm one also, but I have the one linked here.
When putting in heat inserts what I like to do is just after ive pushed it in push a flat metal surface against it which will make sure it goes in flush but it will also pull away the heat so less chance of warping.
Interesting, I'll have to try this in the future. A lot of times when I'm recording my inserts are less than perfect because of everything involved. I tend to under insert so I can finish it off camera. I try to not let it show on video, but creating the video effects the results a lot.
Thank you Kyle. I'm starting on the third one tomorrow evening. I've been finishing up the little studio office you see in the video so I'm ready for winter.
@@scottcorn Looking forward to the next one. I just got my LDO V0.1 kit, will make that my winter project. Also fighting with my 2.4 currently, it's winning.
I have watched every one of this series. They are actually very well thought out and well vlog documented. it is such a shame you could not go over over all of them and do a voice over just like on your last one. I know that would be a very time consuming painful experience, but I really think the content is great, just very hard to sit through hours of over dubs on. To be honest it is one of the best comprehensive build series I have seen in the Voron Build space. I am waiting for all of my gear and I will be doing a similar series with all the new mods like CNC TAP and Can bus setup etc. This certianly beats thos coring LIVE Build sessions you see on youtube. great job - Cheers Westy
You want the weaker loctite or you won't be able to get it apart without applying heat. With the printer many use fingernail polish in place of loctite when they don't have it.
Nice videos. When I decide to build one, I’ll watch again. Looking forward to the next video. I have a question: did you source the parts yourself, or buy a kit?
Thank you, I sourced the kit about 99% from the Voron sourcing guide. The longest wait was the Misumi extrusions at about 3 months. Everything else was China with about 6 - 8 weeks wait.
Thanks so much for your fine work and posting of these videos, I can already see I might have material strength and rigidity issues with my planned behemoth, I've ordered plenty of extrusions, so I'll start with the 350mm first, once I have one in front of me working I'll be able to determine if a 650 would be strong enough to not self destruct.💥😱 just they way I am think big then scale back 🙂
I think you are correct in starting with a 350. I think it is best to start with a known good design to come to an understanding. The belt size would be my first concern with a much larger printer. You really can’t get a wider belt in there without redesigning the printed parts. I heard of people creating 1 meter printers, but never really heard if they actually worked well with 6mm belts.
I see in the 2.4 r2 there is a part under tools called bottom_panel_template along with an image file bottom_panel_modification. Looking to find out why this way added. Looks like cutting bottom panel for little more Z belt room. Anyone done this yet? I hate to cut into the plate but if I have too Dremel time.
Misunderstood. It is Heat-Set Insert Tips for M2, M2.5, M3, M4, and M5 Inserts. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B17VQLD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found it way easier to install the motor bracket to the frame first loosely and then attach the motor after. You can get to all the screws much easier.
If you are talking about the Z idler M5 screw Yes. They have held up on mine, but they do strip easily. The R2 version after this also just screws into plastic.
Sorry, missed this comment. I found it easier to tighten the screws later. This allowed everything to be lined up by the housing (bearings, spacers) before being tightened.
Thank you and I'm working on it. I'm trying to get it done by the weekend, but we will see. I'm afraid my computer is a little underpowered for it so it takes a bit. Computer parts are still so stupid expensive it's hard to justify upgrading right now. lol
Спасибо за подробное видео. Без лишнего трёпа и вместе с тем со всеми необходимыми нюансами. Очень помогает при первой сборке принтера. Собираю такой же по размерам принтер. Ещё раз спасибо и удачи!
Stated by many here already, but I too thank you for all the effort to record and edit this build. In my opinion you're absolutely hitting the sweet spot of extraordinary detail and clarity against the time to watch. Every episode I get more excited about building one too. I'm about 1/2 way in printing parts for the V0.1 build I plan to do first. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you. I have a few months worth of videos to make on this yet, but I'm already thinking about what to build next. Shipping from China and more so Misumi takes so long anymore. I have the parts for an OpenBuilds C-Beam Machine that I need to build. A Voron Trident also looks interesting. Not sure what others would be interested in.
@@scottcorn If you’re keeping score, put me down for all of it. If you post it I promise to watch it wit great interest 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks Scott! Nice addition to the written manual. Can't wait to see the end of the series. Starting today with my build.
Thank you and good luck with your build. I'm working on wiring now. I keep having to wait on shipping of items I thought I had but didn't. lol
@@scottcorn Story of my life....
Excellent instructional video! As others have said, this is like the video form of the manual. I love it. I am using your videos as I build my VORON at this very moment.
Glad it was helpful and thank you! I'm adding the last panel on mine at the moment.
This is fantastic, Scott! There are many voron build series' out there, but none I have found are as instructional as yours. I think you must be the first to have taken the time to shoot and edit videos actually showing how to do the build step by step, as opposed to just building one with a camera rolling in the background. I look forward to seeing your wiring, firmware and tuning vids for the 2.4 in the future. Subscribed.
Thank you. I'm working on the third one now. I like the edit process almost as much as the build. Most don't. LOL
Watching this at 1am with noise cancelling headphones. @25:15 I panicked and looked around the room.
Then had a good laugh, thanks for this well made video. Can’t wait to build my own.
Thank you.
THANK YOU. Perfect amount of detail and has really helped me with my build
Glad it helped!
When using a regular soldering tip use a heatset insert on the soldering tip it shortens the tip end and gives perspective on the depth of the insert you are inserting.
I believe you motivate everyone watching your video to built one. Thank you for your time and a super neat tutorial sir 🙌
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you very much, very much detailed videos. I am planning to build VORON 2.4 r2. This is going to help me a lot. 🙏
Glad to hear it. Have fun building!
Thank you
Nice video, thanks. Can you post a link for the heat insert iron tip?
Thank you.
www.amazon.com/Heat-Set-Inserts-Compatible-SP40NKUS-Connecting/dp/B08B17VQLD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=heat+set+insert+tool&qid=1635714826&sprefix=heat+set+insert%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMFRTMTVWQUYwTDg0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDk3MjA2QjZYSFlPWUdRWjg0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0MTg1MTkyMFJCSkJXUkUzVlRQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Virtjoule makes them. I think he may sell just the 3mm one also, but I have the one linked here.
These videos are just outstanding. Thank you for sharing your build.
Glad you like them! You are welcome.
When putting in heat inserts what I like to do is just after ive pushed it in push a flat metal surface against it which will make sure it goes in flush but it will also pull away the heat so less chance of warping.
Interesting, I'll have to try this in the future. A lot of times when I'm recording my inserts are less than perfect because of everything involved. I tend to under insert so I can finish it off camera. I try to not let it show on video, but creating the video effects the results a lot.
great guide. should we use thread locker on all the grub screws?
Great video Scott, very easy to follow. Thanks!
Thank you Kyle. I'm starting on the third one tomorrow evening. I've been finishing up the little studio office you see in the video so I'm ready for winter.
@@scottcorn Looking forward to the next one. I just got my LDO V0.1 kit, will make that my winter project. Also fighting with my 2.4 currently, it's winning.
I have watched every one of this series. They are actually very well thought out and well vlog documented. it is such a shame you could not go over over all of them and do a voice over just like on your last one. I know that would be a very time consuming painful experience, but I really think the content is great, just very hard to sit through hours of over dubs on. To be honest it is one of the best comprehensive build series I have seen in the Voron Build space. I am waiting for all of my gear and I will be doing a similar series with all the new mods like CNC TAP and Can bus setup etc. This certianly beats thos coring LIVE Build sessions you see on youtube. great job - Cheers Westy
i can't find the locktite 242 in Italy, managed to find 243, 2400. And then other types, what should be the best features of the threadlocker?
You want the weaker loctite or you won't be able to get it apart without applying heat. With the printer many use fingernail polish in place of loctite when they don't have it.
my rails were a royal pain in the a*se, had to use 15mm bolts and widen the gaps in the rail as that was only 3mm, got there in the end
great video and process. I like this kind of quite, peaceful and calm. So relaxing especially I am bulding one V2.4 also :D
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Nice videos. When I decide to build one, I’ll watch again. Looking forward to the next video.
I have a question: did you source the parts yourself, or buy a kit?
Thank you, I sourced the kit about 99% from the Voron sourcing guide. The longest wait was the Misumi extrusions at about 3 months. Everything else was China with about 6 - 8 weeks wait.
Thanks so much for your fine work and posting of these videos, I can already see I might have material strength and rigidity issues with my planned behemoth, I've ordered plenty of extrusions, so I'll start with the 350mm first, once I have one in front of me working I'll be able to determine if a 650 would be strong enough to not self destruct.💥😱 just they way I am think big then scale back 🙂
I think you are correct in starting with a 350. I think it is best to start with a known good design to come to an understanding. The belt size would be my first concern with a much larger printer. You really can’t get a wider belt in there without redesigning the printed parts. I heard of people creating 1 meter printers, but never really heard if they actually worked well with 6mm belts.
I see in the 2.4 r2 there is a part under tools called bottom_panel_template along with an image file bottom_panel_modification. Looking to find out why this way added. Looks like cutting bottom panel for little more Z belt room. Anyone done this yet? I hate to cut into the plate but if I have too Dremel time.
Sorry, my bottom panel is the stock cutout. It clears the Z belts but is really close.
thank you for all the content! Where did you found this iron tip?!
They are cheap dentistry tools. You can get a set for very little on AliExpress or at Harbor Freight in the US.
@@scottcorn dentistry tools? Can you provide a name for me to search for?
@@rodolphougolini Harbor Freight calls it Hook & Pick Set.
www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pick-set-93514.html
Ahhhh I was asking about the soldering iron tip! :-D
Misunderstood. It is Heat-Set Insert Tips for M2, M2.5, M3, M4, and M5 Inserts.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B17VQLD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What was the total cost in all the pieces?
I was a little surprised at no mention of the Angry Tensioner bracket when assembling the Angry Z Idlers 🙂
Yes, I should have said that I adjusted them to all be half way. I won't use them to adjust tension until we are tuning printing.
SO MUCH BETTER THAN LIVE BUILDS NO UTUBE CREATOR FILLER BS
what did you use to cut the din rails?
Just a hacksaw. I cleaned the cut edge up with a file.
@@scottcorn is it necessary to cut if the screw hole lines up?
You only need to cut it if it doesn't fit in the underside of the printer. If the screw holes line up and it isn't too close to an edge you are good.
Also make sure that it is long enough to fit the components you are going to put on them.
thank you for your video, heaps help.
You're welcome!
I found it way easier to install the motor bracket to the frame first loosely and then attach the motor after. You can get to all the screws much easier.
I could see that. I had to angle the motor into the mount. Thanks for the idea.
So screw Into the plastic?
If you are talking about the Z idler M5 screw Yes. They have held up on mine, but they do strip easily. The R2 version after this also just screws into plastic.
Great!
Thank you!
Sorry but you do the flat first with the screw. So it can still rotate freely.
Sorry, missed this comment.
I found it easier to tighten the screws later. This allowed everything to be lined up by the housing (bearings, spacers) before being tightened.
Great series! I demand the release of the next video in the series now :)
Thank you and I'm working on it. I'm trying to get it done by the weekend, but we will see. I'm afraid my computer is a little underpowered for it so it takes a bit.
Computer parts are still so stupid expensive it's hard to justify upgrading right now. lol
Any one who does't have a soldering iron. can use a hot glue gun. Works for me.
Hot glue as an insulator even if it is soldered would probably be good also. I'm worried about the Z probe grounding out on the bottom.