Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 12 Software, Configuration and Testing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2022
- Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 12 Software, Configuration and Testing
This is the twelfth of several videos where I will build a Voron 2.4 350 and show step by step. This step install the software, configures the software and tests. The software installation is shown on both a Mac and Windows.
The build parts are from the sourcing guide recommended vendors.
I just started using DaVinci Resolve so I'm a noob at it. Let me know what I'm doing right and wrong please. I want to get better at this.
My mailing address if you want to send me something cool:
Scott Corn
5411 State Route 261 #622
Newburgh, IN. 47629
A Link to all Voron information:
www.vorondesign.com/
I use Polymaker ASA for most of my prints. Affiliate link.
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If you get:
cannot create regular file '../klipper_config/firmware.bin': No such file or directory
on the command:
cp out/klipper.bin ../klipper_config/firmware.bin
Try:
cp out/klipper.bin ../printer_data/config/firmware.bin
Depending on the version of Klipper you are running the directory may have been moved.
Thanks so much for this update! It saved me
No problem. Several people have brought it up and I kept forgetting to pin this.
@@scottcorn yup just came here to post this, thanks!
thank you, it worked for me. Great presentation, made the whole process way easier for me
THIS!!!!!!!
I just wanted to say thank you, I personally come from a engineering backround and the assembly was quite simple to me, but it was extremly difficult to me to find an easy to understand documentation how to get the printer moving. You explained everything slow and easy to understand, where as a lot of other channels just expect you to have already a lot of knowledge in this field. Because of you my printer is now running great :)
I'm glad I could help!
Special thanks for this all so far. Started my build last week and it has been a pain going between the R1/R2/LDO manuals and videos, but this series so far has been the biggest help by far.
Glad I could help. I'm doing my first print tonight.
@@scottcorn same, good luck on yours!
@@paintballertw it's about %75 done. So far I'm really happy with how it looks.
I found your series of videos after I had completed basic assembly and was working on initial startup. While Voron documentation is very good I found your Parts 10,11 and 12 to be extremely helpful and time saving. Looking at the rest of the list I see several more that I will be watching. Subscribed.
Thanks!
Great to hear!
My Voron kit was delivered today! Started watching earlier and finally reached here... Superb series, mo waffling and just plain great information. Superb!
Thank you!
Made it to the end finally! This was so much help!!! This project has lasted already more than a year, stuck many times for months, but now I have a feeling I will actually finish it one day!
You can do it! lol
Wow, you have done an amazing job explaining everything. You have inspired me to also build a voron. Cant wait for the next episode.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great series! One quick note on this video is moving the printhead forward before doing the probe accuracy test... Thanks again for the tutorials. Best videos I've found.
Thank you!
Old to 3D printing, New to Voron 2.4 R2. Your video is priceless! Thanks for taking the time and effort or make it. It helped me a LOT! 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I was struggling on the software configuration, until I watched these videos. Thank you sir. Awesome job.
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped.
Thank you so much for the great explanation! Been looking for a good video that explains it to me like I'm a child. I do have a Bachelors degree in engineering, but software usually just goes over my head. Thank you again!
making it to the end of this feels like beating the most challenging video game ever, i feel ALIVE!!! lol. thanks so much for the guide, i wouldnt have made it through without this video
Thaank you for the easy to follow guide it got mine up and running.
Thank you for providing this detailed video! I read the initial start-up documentation carefully and was very happy to have a second source to verify the process! Everything went well so far
You're very welcome!
This is a really fantastic series. I'll be getting my Formbot kit in the next few days and I'm really looking forward to assembling it. What would really interest me is the assembly and installation of the Klicky Probe.
Thank you. I plan on adding a klicky probe at some point. I'll video any changes I make. Trying to get everything in place to time-lapse the first print at the moment.
Really appreciate your tutorial. Made Klipper install so much easier!
Once again, i followed. And arrived at where u are at smoothly, of cos with discord great helps too. Me, being more of a video person, needed your tutorials. Look forward to your next videos!
Awesome, thank you! I hope I get the next one out by this weekend. I had a tick in my extruder that would have shown up in the print. Waiting on the last of the actual Bondtech parts to arrive today. It's been frustrating to be one step away from the first print. lol
@@scottcorn u take your time. We’d rather have a great video than a rushed video. I hope to contact u directly more more sharing between 2 vorons.
Thank you again. Sure, the best way to contact me is on Discord scorn#0711 .
Wow I was really worried about putting kipper on but you’ve made it look so easy!
Glad I could help!
This instructional is great!! It will help with my build thanks!
I subscribed to your channel just because of these videos. Don't know what your other videos are like or if I'll even watch them to be honest but I don't care. These videos where so useful for me the least I can do is give you another sub.
Thank you!
i can say without your video i was lost! thank you
so much details ... great work ! you helped the comunity..
greetz from turkey
Greetings from the US and thank you!
This video saved me a ton of reading so thank you again. Everything tests ok so onto the next.
Glad it helped!
Another great video in the series. You have been a great help. Like your description asked, it would be cool to see what mods and changes you plan to make along with tutorials. Crazy to see how many variations of parts and programming that can be done on printers.
Thank you. I've got parts for several mods ready. I'm kind of adding a couple of mods in this next video. LEDs and camera.
@@scottcorn Thats whats up. I plan on setting up a camera and light as well. Have both on the ender 3v2 right now. Just debating on using a ribbon cable pi cam or usb webcam. A led string light for the voron could be cool vs the 8in light bar I currently have.
I'm using the Angry CAM USB mod and the Eddie LED light clip mod.
@@scottcorn Those sound cool. Ill have to check them out.
Just ran into an issue or confusion while doing the firmware flash. When I did the: ls /dev/serial/by-id My message came up as usb-STMicroelectronics_MARLIN_BIGTREE_OCTOPUS_V1_CDC_in_FS_Mode_3765337E3337-if00. Would that be my serial or did my firmware flash incorrect?
Thank you so very much for this video. Helped out alot. Cheers Scott.
You are welcome!
Best tutorial video ever man helped with every single step.
Thank You!
Scott - I'm really stunned by you accuracy. Well done. Have a coffee on me!
Thank you!
Thanks I made it to the end watching now I have to make it to the end again doing. Thanks again really nice video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video Scott! It was a real help seeing it done, aside the Voron instructions.
Glad it helped!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I'm a total noob. The mechanical build wasn't too bad for me, but was totally freaked out about the electrical and software steps - until I ran into your vids! So grateful. Are you considering adding a smart filament sensor as a mod?
I might. Right now I'm fighting with first layer inconsistencies. I may need to change up the probe sooner rather than later. lol
It's not bad, just annoying that I have to change up the Z offset on each print to get the first layer good.
Oh and you are welcome also. lol
THANK YOU, great helpful video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I JUST FOLLOWED YOUR VID WOW IT WORKS unlike a lot on this thank you very much
Glad I could help!
Thanks , great video !
thanks a million, you saved me hours and days of time
Glad I could help!
A big tnx for this tutorial! Very usefull to me!
Glad to hear it!
You rock , as always great work thank you
Thank you
Hi Scott, I followed from the first video till the end of Part 12 and was wondering how to proceed since Ive built my printer with a Klicky and not the inductive probe. i hand attached the Klicky probe to the print head and ran Probe Accurcy and it worked fine. Any hints on how to proceed? Do just move forward to the video you did on the Klicky? Ive tried moving forward several time and have yet to get this project finished up. I ask because Im stumped. Thanks for you time.
This was helpful, thank you!
You're welcome!
thanks for this very helpfull video!
You are welcome!
Brilliant Video. Thank You 😀
Glad you enjoyed it!
You are an artist. Can't for the next video.
Thank you
Thanks for the detailed video! you made my life so easier... 1 question though- why did you choose MainsailOS and not Octopi or similar? (not that I know the differences, but in other forums I saw other people less recommend about MainsailOS). again, thank you for the great work and time you spent to help all of us.
Thank you.
MainsailOS is lighter than Octopi is the reason I didn't choose Octopi. Octopi has more addons though. Mainsail is also a little easier to set up.
and by lighter I'm saying it's UI performance is better.
thanks very helpful
You're welcome!
My board is Spider, can be the same firmware than Octopus as you say in the video ?
19:46 Any reason why you skipped the *G32 macro* part for your particular build? Not sure yet what it does exactly.
Sorry, didn't realize I didn't uncomment it on video. G32 moves the print head to the center of the bed. The center is, of course, is different for each sized printer so you have to uncomment the correct line for your printer.
Thanks Scott
No problem.
When I do G28 X,Y everything's in reverse. I'm trying to figure out how to change and reverse in the config.. but my brain just can't process it 😢 any recommendations?
I have error heater_bed not heating at expected rate. See the verify_heater. I transfer my voron to different location thats why i redo again from the start. Pls help
getting a fancy "unable to open file" when i try launching a print , any idea which path the gcodes should be with the LDO kit ?
If you are using Mainsail look in mainsail.cfg for something like this:
[virtual_sdcard]
path: /home/pi/gcode_files
Make sure this path exists and can be gotten to.
Also make sure that "g-code files" shows up as a tab on the Mainsail UI.
@@scottcorn Thx, i found out. by the way, pid tunes are meant to start cold, not after warm up
Will this work with marlin and GTR? Plan on making my voron using the GTR board which only supports marlin as far as I'm aware.
I'm just not versed in Marlin. The testing parts would be more or less the same.
Hi Scott. thanks for your work, really useful videos. I wan't to ask your support, I have a weird behavior with my printer, everything was fine until I test the axis home, the motors direction and the end stops are fine but when I send G28 x, moves the Y axis to the back without moving X and hits without stop it. I check the documentation, and the connections but don't found anything wrong, what should be your recommendation?
Not ignoring you here, just trying to figure out what this could be. You can move the X axis back by itself, but not when also moving Y?
Thank You VERY much.
You are welcome!
Thanks for all efforts and awesome presentation I really enjoyed the episodes and did the same with you step by step. However, after installing the SD card and adding the printer cfg file the UPDATED MANAGER says invalid for the files that at your video is update!!
If you can help me figure out the issue it will be appreciated 🌹🌹
Hi Scott, great video and configuration went well. However when we are homing with G28 code the x and y motors goes to the opposite direction, instead hitting the end stops. What have we done wrong?
The motors are wired backwards. Different motors can can have different wiring unfortunately.
The easiest way to fix this is to go and find dir_pin entry for the X and Y motors in printer.cfg.
Example:
dir_pin: ar48 (This isn't the right pin)
Add a ! in front of the pin.
Change to:
dir_pin: !ar48 (Still not the right pin)
This will reverse the motor.
If they already have a ! remove it.
@@scottcorn Thank you, it helped me
Hi I need help, after i updated the klipper,mainsail, moonraker etc. on your 7:21 video… the create config file is missing and i cannot create a firmware. Is there new update in mainsail? Coz im stuck after 7:21 on the video. Thnx
Not completely following what you are asking. If you are saying that you printer.cfg file has disappeared, they had a problem with a version that moved where the files were.
It should have notified you with the bell at the top right. It has a link on the steps to do to get the files to show up. Wish I had saved the link when I did it. I can't find it now.
If you have run their fix script, I had to click the refresh button on the top right of the config file section before they showed up.
If you are saying you can't find firmware.bin file to copy it? With the fix talked about above it would still be in the same place (out directory) and would still go to ..\klipper_config directory. This assumes you are in the klipper (~klipper) directory like the video shows.
Sorry if this isn't what you were asking.
Hi Mr Scott, Because of the low cost, I use MKS Monter8 v2.0 for my printer. So, i can't config extactly. My klipper dont have a DEV folder when I run ls /dev/serial/by-id I get the error ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/*': Can you help me to create the firmware file in menuconfig exactly for my board. Thank you very much.
Hi
Everything went great up to trying to find the files in the printer
The config folder was empty
Those items that you had were no where else either
I had updated all the items on the right previously
All other steps prior were just sane as yours
Any ideas ?
Thanks in advance
Do you have a message showing at the top (bell)? They recently had an issue that move where the files were and you had to run a correcting script. Their message will explain what needs to be done. I used a new version that was fixed but my files still looked liked they were missing. I had to click the refresh icon at the top of the file sections and they showed up. Both configuration files and G-code.
What does this mean? Malformed command 'DUMP_TMC STEPPER=stepper x'
Help me , please!!!. I have error :"MCU 'mcu' shutdown: ADC out of range This generally occurs when a heater temperature exceeds its ..
I put in a new thermistor, a new heating element but it still gives the error
Thanks!
No problem.
when i type the command ls /dev/serial/by-id i get no such file or directory
hi i am wondering would this kliper tutorial work on other voron printers - thankyou
It would mostly. You would need to use the correct configuration for the printer and controller board you have. They all differ. The overall steps are close.
@@scottcorn ok thank you for your help over all explained a lot about kliper
Never has a video helped me so much. Thank you very much!
Glad it helped and thank you!
Thanks
Thank you! It is appreciated.
12:20 im having problems trying to copy the file it tells me that it failed to access ../klipper_config/firmware.bin not a directory what am I doing wrong?
If you get:
cannot create regular file '../klipper_config/firmware.bin': No such file or directory
on the command:
cp out/klipper.bin ../klipper_config/firmware.bin
Try:
cp out/klipper.bin ../printer_data/config/firmware.bin
Depending on the version of Klipper you are running the directory may have been moved.
Hello, for uptodate moonraker does have somekind problem, printer.cfg and others disphere somewhere. Anyone have solution for this issue? I updated everything else than moonraker and it works at the moment.
Do you have a message showing at the top (bell)? They recently had an issue that moved where the files were and you had to run a correcting script in SSH. Their message will explain what needs to be done. I used a new version that was fixed but my files still looked liked they were missing. I had to click the refresh icon at the top of the file sections and they showed up from that point. Both configuration files and G-code.
how do i fix the "verify_heater" heater is not heating as expected error? i have negative -172 degrees on my heater and bed temperature running.
i am following your build since from the start.
Under [heater_bed] on printer.cfg look for sensor_type: and see what type you have entered. If you have the same brand and model heater as me it needs to be Generic 3950 . If you have another brand heater you will have to confirm what thermistor it uses.
If this is correct check that your wiring to the thermistor is good. Maybe a bad crimp? If this is good check what pin you have thermistor wires on. If you have an Octopus like mine it should be sensor_pin: PF3 . I show a diagram in the video that shows where this pin is.
If you are absolutely sure all this is correct you may have a bad thermistor. Until the thermistor shows normal room temp before you turn on the heater, it isn't going to work.
@@scottcorn It was a bad crimp! its Alive and printing now! Thank you very much! followed your vids 1 by 1 :)
I'm glad you got it figured out. Crimps are a pain at times. Thank you!
raspberry pi and btt pi 2, it is possible to install in the same way. Thanks for the great work
Scott need your help no matter what I do my klipper directory dont have a DEV folder when I run ls /dev/serial/by-id I get the error ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/*': No such file or directory followed your instruction exactly as you described please advise
The Octopus board isn't flashing is the likely reason for this. Make sure your SD card is formatted as FAT32. When you create the firmware file in menuconfig make sure the settings are correct for your board. Mine was a Octopus 1.1 is yours maybe another version? Different processor? Make sure the firmware file is saved as firmware.bin. When it flashes to the Octopus the name on the SD card will be changed to firmware.cur or no extension at all. If all this fails the boot sector on the Octopus may be corrupt. I've not rebuilt the the boot sector before, but there is instructions on how to at BTTs site. If everything fails I would contact BTT on the Voron Discord. The Octopus could be bad. Let me know what it turns out to be.
@@scottcorn Thank you I get the firmware.cur I even replaced my board from Fysetc Spider to Octopus Pro 1.0 thought something wrong with the board but still the same no DEV directory dont know what I am doing wrong Thank you
Check that your USB cable you are using to connect the pi and Octopus is not bad.
If that's not it, try a firmware directly from BTT from here:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/tree/master/Firmware/Klipper
This site also has the settings for a manual config of a pro.
If the provided firmware for Klipper from BTT doesn't work I would talk to BTT on the Voron Discord.
@@scottcorn Thank you for the link and help issues was resolved by replacing the cable and reinstall everything from scratch also updates were installed one by one instead of select updating all
You have been such a huge part of my first voron build!
I'm on this step now but when I run a g28 x command my gantry moves down before homing the axis. Both X and Y home fine, just backwards Z. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?
Sorry, TH-cam didn't notify me of several comments around this time until today.
I'm sure you have it by now, but the wires on your motor are backwards. You can either rewire that motor connection or change the config in printer.cfg.
I would recommend changing the config.
Find
[extruder]
dir_pin: PE3
in printer.cfg.
Change dir_pin:PE3 to
dir_pin:!PE3
This will reverse the motor.
Just realized you said Z not extruder. lol
Not awake yet.
The same thing only find [stepper_z] [stepper_1z] [stepper_2z] [stepper_3z]
(Each on their own lines)
Find dir_pin: for each.
If it has a ! remove it. If it doesn't have a ! add it.
thank you for all the help. but i have a problem with my z steppers.. when i home x or y only the z steppers 1 & 2 work.. but when i buzz all 4 they are working fine
Are you sure the motors are all going the same direction when moving? You could accidentally have two wired backwards? Normally if they move during buzz they move later.
I know it's hard to see, but when you buzz each make sure they start out going the same way on all.
Each should move up 1mm when buzzed.
They are prefabricated cables from the kit. they are all the same and even if the front step motors would have to move down.. sorry for bad english 😃
@@specialk6753 No problem with the English. Just make sure even with the harness that they all move up when buzzing. They can make mistakes even in kits.
Does the gantry go up on all four corners when doing a G28 X or G28 Y? What command are you doing when this happens? Is there an error message?
Also, If they move down instead of up this can be changed in the config not at the wiring.
Also, what does this mean? Malformed command 'STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper x'
Hello, ad 32'40" you leave the toolhead in the home position, switching to probe endstop checking. I would warn people here to be sure to move the toolhead somewhere over the bed because doing a PROBE_ACCURACY command in home position isn't really a good thing to do! :-)
I can't change published videos. I need to do a probe accuracy in my video that is being publish. I called it out there. Thanks for pointing it out.
after g28 y head moves back too far, it's like 10mm, how to fix it?
nevermind, it was variable_home_backoff_y\x in klicky_variables )
Glad you got it.
Thank you. Your videos helped me a lot to make voron v2.4r2 I'm done with the software, but there's a difficult part. Do I need only one mainsail for software? Or should I download the octopi as well??
Only one can be run. I would recommend Mainsail over Octoprint. Mainsail doesn't have as many add ins, but unless it is missing something that you need on Octoprint, Mainsail is faster.
@@hojin0317 Mainsail and Klipper are both installed on the PI with the steps I show in this video. The MCU has to be flashed with Klipper, but I also show that in this video.
Just follow along with this video and you will have everything you need. 🙂
@@hojin0317 That is telling you that you need to set the sensor_type in the section heater_bed. Go to 17:56 in the video and do that step. That error should go away.
@@scottcorn Thank you very much for your reply!! I'll try it again when it's dawn!! Can I ask you again if there's anything I don't understand??
@@hojin0317 Sure, no problem.
Please document the clicky probe this inductive one has been a pain
I'm planning on it at some point. The first mods I do will have to be the endstops XYZ. I'm not happy with the stock ones at all. I've not melted the inductive one yet. lol
Any chance you ran into a connection failed (Cannot connect to Moonraker) error after entering the url?
Have you gotten to it before or is it a new install? Are you using mainsailos.local? If so can you ping mainsailos.local? If you can't go to your router and see if you can find the IP the PI is using. If it's not there and you are using wifi, try a direct ethernet connection and see if you can ping it.
If you can ping mainsailos.local or the IP directly there is something wrong with your mainsail installation and you should probably install it again. (If it is a new install)
Sorry beyond these initial steps it could be a lot of things.
@@scottcorn this is a new install. I’ve tried reinstalling and using different microsd cards but no luck.
I can ping it/get to the mainsails page but there’s always a pop up that says connection failed - cannot connect to moonraker.
@@scottcorn either way, I appreciate the response. Thanks!
The best thing I found to do when you don't know what something is is to eliminate what it is not.
I would start by loading stock Raspian on the PI and see if you can get to it. If you can you know it's just a klipper install issue. If you can't something is wrong with the PI.
If you are using the Raspberry Pi Imager I lean toward an issue with the PI. I know that is a terrible thought with their shortage. Have you re-downloaded the imager if you used it?
@@scottcorn I’ll give those a try. I am using the pi imager but maybe I need to try another method.
I did have a spare pi and couldn’t get that to work either so I think it’s mainsail/or I’m missing something…
is it the same for the spider board?
You would want to download the V2 Spider configuration file. The probe would be a more standard way also.
Loading the software and testing would all be the same though.
I am stuck on ls /dev/serial/by-id. No such file or directory.
This is usually because something in menu config steps before this was set incorrectly. Go back through that and make sure it matches your board. Keep in mind that you may have a different processor than mine because they did ship more than one model of processor. You will have to check the numbers on the processor.
@@scottcorn thanks I got past this now I have another question on your latest video. Your voron series is soo helpful.
At 12:05 when I try to run cp out/klipper....
It says cannot create regular file
When you get to this point do a cd out and enter key. The do a ls and enter key and see if the file klipper.bin is listed. If not the file wasn't created in earlier steps. Maybe had a typo in the name? Maybe just failed? These commands just go to the out directory and then list it's content.
If it is listed type .. and enter key and .. and enter key again. Then do a ls and enter key. It should show you the directory names. See if klipper_config is listed. if it is not what directories are listed? The two .. just move up two directory levels. The ls lists what is in this directory.
The command you are running:
cp (copy) out/klipper.bin (the file to copy) .. (go up one directory)/klipper_config/firmware.bin (where to copy to and rename the file)
If all of these are correct it would be something deeper like security and would be much more involved. It is more likely a typo of the directory structure is different for some reason.
@@scottcorn when I run /s it says no such file or directory
but when i run dir it gives me this
autoconf.h board-generic compile_time_request.c compile_time_request.o klipper.bin klipper.elf src
board board-link compile_time_request.d compile_time_request.txt klipper.dict lib
@@no_one404 Change this to lower case LS . Sorry it is hard to see on here but it's not /s but ls. It stands for list.
@@scottcorn ok now it gives me
autoconf.h board-generic compile_time_request.c compile_time_request.o klipper.bin klipper.elf src
board board-link compile_time_request.d compile_time_request.txt klipper.dict lib
Can u share config? Still getting error moving out of range when going to 0,0 point :D New with voron.
Yes, I'll have to put it in a community post. It is too large to go here in the comments. I have several mods so it won't work by pasting it in your config, but you can compare areas.
I posted it, but it didn't show up. Must be too long for that area also. I'll put it in sections here.
# This file contains common pin mappings for the BigTreeTech Octopus V1.
# To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the STM32F446 with a "32KiB bootloader"
# Enable "extra low-level configuration options" and select the "12MHz crystal" as clock reference
# after running "make", copy the generated "klipper/out/klipper.bin" file to a
# file named "firmware.bin" on an SD card and then restart the OctoPus with that SD card.
# See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
## Voron Design VORON2 250/300/350mm BigTreeTech OctoPus V1 TMC2209 UART config
## *** THINGS TO CHANGE/CHECK: ***
## MCU paths [mcu] section
## Thermistor types [extruder] and [heater_bed] sections - See 'sensor types' list at end of file
## Z Endstop Switch location [safe_z_home] section
## Homing end position [gcode_macro G32] section
## Z Endstop Switch offset for Z0 [stepper_z] section
## Probe points [quad_gantry_level] section
## Min & Max gantry corner postions [quad_gantry_level] section
## PID tune [extruder] and [heater_bed] sections
## Thermistor types [extruder] and [heater_bed] sections
## Probe pin [probe] section
## Fine tune E steps [extruder] section
[mcu]
## Obtain definition by "ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/" then unplug to verify
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_33002F000750534E4E313020-if00
restart_method: command
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
[include mainsail.cfg]
[include timelapse.cfg]
[include shell_command.cfg]
[include klicky-probe.cfg]
[mcu rpi]
serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu
[adxl345]
cs_pin: rpi:None
[resonance_tester]
accel_chip: adxl345
probe_points:
175, 175, 20
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 3000 #Max 4000
max_z_velocity: 15 #Max 15 for 12V TMC Drivers, can increase for 24V
max_z_accel: 350
square_corner_velocity: 5.0
[exclude_object]
#####################################################################
# X/Y Stepper Settings
#####################################################################
## B Stepper - Left
## Connected to MOTOR_0
## Endstop connected to DIAG_0
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PF13
dir_pin: !PF12
enable_pin: !PF14
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:200 #set to 400 for 0.9 degree stepper
endstop_pin: PG6
position_min: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment below for 250mm build
#position_endstop: 250
#position_max: 250
## Uncomment for 300mm build
#position_endstop: 300
#position_max: 300
## Uncomment for 350mm build
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 25 #Max 100
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## A Stepper - Right
## Connected to MOTOR_1
## Endstop connected to DIAG_1
[stepper_y]
step_pin: PG0
dir_pin: !PG1
enable_pin: !PF15
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:200 #set to 400 for 0.9 degree stepper
endstop_pin: PG9
position_min: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment for 250mm build
#position_endstop: 250
#position_max: 250
## Uncomment for 300mm build
#position_endstop: 300
#position_max: 300
## Uncomment for 350mm build
position_endstop: 350
position_max: 350
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 25 #Max 100
homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PD11
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
#####################################################################
# Z Stepper Settings
#####################################################################
## Z0 Stepper - Front Left
## Connected to MOTOR_2
## Endstop connected to DIAG_2
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PF11
dir_pin: !PG3
enable_pin: !PG5
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 32
endstop_pin: PG10
position_endstop = 1.350
## Z-position of nozzle (in mm) to z-endstop trigger point relative to print surface (Z0)
## (+) value = endstop above Z0, (-) value = endstop below
## Increasing position_endstop brings nozzle closer to the bed
## After you run Z_ENDSTOP_CALIBRATE, position_endstop will be stored at the very end of your config
#position_endstop: -0.5
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment below for 250mm build
#position_max: 230
## Uncomment below for 300mm build
#position_max: 280
## Uncomment below for 350mm build
position_max: 330
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
position_min: -5
homing_speed: 8
second_homing_speed: 3
homing_retract_dist: 3
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PC6
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z1 Stepper - Rear Left
## Connected to MOTOR_3
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: PG4
dir_pin: PC1
enable_pin: !PA0
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 32
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_z1]
uart_pin: PC7
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z2 Stepper - Rear Right
## Connected to MOTOR_4
[stepper_z2]
step_pin: PF9
dir_pin: !PF10
enable_pin: !PG2
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 32
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_z2]
uart_pin: PF2
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Z3 Stepper - Front Right
## Connected to MOTOR_5
[stepper_z3]
step_pin: PC13
dir_pin: PF0
enable_pin: !PF1
rotation_distance: 40
gear_ratio: 80:16
microsteps: 32
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_z3]
uart_pin: PE4
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.8
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
#####################################################################
# Extruder
#####################################################################
## Connected to MOTOR_6
## Heater - HE0
## Thermistor - T0
[extruder]
step_pin: PE2
dir_pin: !PE3
enable_pin: !PD4
## Update value below when you perform extruder calibration
## If you ask for 100mm of filament, but in reality it is 98mm:
## rotation_distance = * / 100
## 22.6789511 is a good starting point - 22.452161589 (99) - 22.225372078 (98)
rotation_distance: 22.225372078 #Bondtech 5mm Drive Gears
## Update Gear Ratio depending on your Extruder Type
## Use 50:17 for Afterburner/Clockwork (BMG Gear Ratio)
## Use 80:20 for M4, M3.1
gear_ratio: 50:17 #BMG Gear Ratio
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.75
heater_pin: PA2
## Validate the following thermistor type to make sure it is correct
## See www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors for additional options
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF4
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 270
max_power: 1.0
min_extrude_temp: 170
#control = pid
#pid_kp = 26.213
#pid_ki = 1.304
#pid_kd = 131.721
## Try to keep pressure_advance below 1.0
#pressure_advance: 0.125
## Default is 0.040, leave stock
#pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040
## E0 on MOTOR6
## Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: false
run_current: 0.5
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
#####################################################################
# Bed Heater
#####################################################################
[heater_bed]
## SSR Pin - HE1
## Thermistor - TB
## Uncomment the following line if using the default SSR wiring from the docs site
heater_pin: PA3
## Other wiring guides may use BED_OUT to control the SSR. Uncomment the following line for those cases
#heater_pin: PA1
## Validate the following thermistor type to make sure it is correct
## See www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#common-thermistors for additional options
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF3
## Adjust Max Power so your heater doesn't warp your bed. Rule of thumb is 0.4 watts / cm^2 .
max_power: 0.6
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 120
#control: pid
#pid_kp: 58.437
#pid_ki: 2.347
#pid_kd: 363.769
pwm_cycle_time:0.0165
#rounded to get rid of flicker but not affect SSR
#####################################################################
# Probe
#####################################################################
[probe]
## Inductive Probe
## This probe is not used for Z height, only Quad Gantry Leveling
## Select the probe port by type:
## For the PROBE port. Will not work with Diode. May need pull-up resistor from signal to 24V.
#pin: ~!PB7
## For the DIAG_7 port. NEEDS BAT85 DIODE! Change to !PG15 if probe is NO.
pin: PG15
## For Octopus Pro PROBE port; NPN and PNP proximity switch types can be set by jumper
#pin: ~!PC5
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 25.0
z_offset = 8.050
speed: 10.0
samples: 3
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
samples_tolerance: 0.006
samples_tolerance_retries: 3
#####################################################################
# Fan Control
#####################################################################
[fan]
## Print Cooling Fan - FAN0
pin: PA8
kick_start_time: 0.5
## Depending on your fan, you may need to increase this value
## if your fan will not start. Can change cycle_time (increase)
## if your fan is not able to slow down effectively
off_below: 0.10
[heater_fan hotend_fan]
## Hotend Fan - FAN1
pin: PE5
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0
## If you are experiencing back flow, you can reduce fan_speed
#fan_speed: 1.0
[controller_fan controller_fan]
## Controller fan - FAN2
pin: PD12
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed
fan_speed: 0.5
[heater_fan exhaust_fan]
## Exhaust fan - FAN3
pin: PD13
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 0.0
kick_start_time: 5.0
heater: heater_bed
heater_temp: 60
fan_speed: 1.0
#####################################################################
# LED Control
#####################################################################
## Chamber Lighting - HE2 Connector (Optional)
#[output_pin caselight]
#pin: PB10
#pwm:true
#shutdown_value: 0
#value:1
#cycle_time: 0.01
#####################################################################
# Temperature
#####################################################################
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor mcu_temp]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
max_temp: 100
#####################################################################
# Homing and Gantry Adjustment Routines
#####################################################################
[idle_timeout]
timeout: 2400
#[safe_z_home]
## XY Location of the Z Endstop Switch
## Update -10,-10 to the XY coordinates of your endstop pin
## (such as 157,305) after going through Z Endstop Pin
## Location Definition step.
#home_xy_position:231,350
#speed:100
#z_hop:10
[quad_gantry_level]
## Use QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL to level a gantry.
## Min & Max gantry corners - measure from nozzle at MIN (0,0) and
## MAX (250, 250), (300,300), or (350,350) depending on your printer size
## to respective belt positions
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Gantry Corners for 250mm Build
## Uncomment for 250mm build
#gantry_corners:
# -60,-10
# 310, 320
## Probe points
#points:
# 50,25
# 50,175
# 200,175
# 200,25
## Gantry Corners for 300mm Build
## Uncomment for 300mm build
#gantry_corners:
# -60,-10
# 360,370
## Probe points
#points:
# 50,25
# 50,225
# 250,225
# 250,25
## Gantry Corners for 350mm Build
## Uncomment for 350mm build
gantry_corners:
-60,-10
410,420
# Probe points
points:
50,25
50,275
300,275
300,25
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
speed: 100
horizontal_move_z: 10
retries: 5
retry_tolerance: 0.0075
max_adjust: 10
########################################
# EXP1 / EXP2 (display) pins
########################################
[board_pins]
aliases:
# EXP1 header
EXP1_1=PE8, EXP1_2=PE7,
EXP1_3=PE9, EXP1_4=PE10,
EXP1_5=PE12, EXP1_6=PE13, # Slot in the socket on this side
EXP1_7=PE14, EXP1_8=PE15,
EXP1_9=, EXP1_10=,
# EXP2 header
EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_2=PA5,
EXP2_3=PB1, EXP2_4=PA4,
EXP2_5=PB2, EXP2_6=PA7, # Slot in the socket on this side
EXP2_7=PC15, EXP2_8=,
EXP2_9=, EXP2_10=
#####################################################################
# Displays
#####################################################################
## Uncomment the display that you have
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
#[display]
## RepRapDiscount 128x64 Full Graphic Smart Controller
#lcd_type: st7920
#cs_pin: EXP1_4
#sclk_pin: EXP1_5
#sid_pin: EXP1_3
#menu_timeout: 40
#encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
#click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
[output_pin beeper]
pin: EXP1_1
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
[display]
# mini12864 LCD Display
lcd_type: uc1701
cs_pin: EXP1_3
a0_pin: EXP1_4
rst_pin: EXP1_5
encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
contrast: 63
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
[neopixel btt_mini12864]
# To control Neopixel RGB in mini12864 display
pin: EXP1_6
chain_count: 3
initial_RED: 0.1
initial_GREEN: 0.5
initial_BLUE: 0.0
color_order: RGB
## Set RGB values on boot up for each Neopixel.
## Index 1 = display, Index 2 and 3 = Knob
[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]
initial_duration: 1
gcode:
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=1 BLUE=1 INDEX=1 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=2 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=3
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
[bed_mesh]
speed: 300
horizontal_move_z: 10
##--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment below for 250mm build
#mesh_min: 40, 40
#mesh_max: 210,210
## Uncomment for 300mm build
#mesh_min: 40, 40
#mesh_max: 260,260
# Uncomment for 350mm build
mesh_min: 40, 40
mesh_max: 310,310
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
fade_start: 0.6
fade_end: 10.0
probe_count: 5,5
algorithm: bicubic
relative_reference_index: 12
#####################################################################
# Macros
#####################################################################
[gcode_macro G32]
gcode:
SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_G32
G90
G28
QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
G28
## Uncomment for for your size printer:
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
## Uncomment for 250mm build
#G0 X125 Y125 Z30 F3600
## Uncomment for 300 build
#G0 X150 Y150 Z30 F3600
## Uncomment for 350mm build
G0 X175 Y175 Z30 F3600
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_G32
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
# Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
G32 ; home all axes
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
[gcode_macro PRINT_END]
# Use PRINT_END for the slicer ending script - please customise for your slicer of choice
gcode:
# safe anti-stringing move coords
{% set th = printer.toolhead %}
{% set x_safe = th.position.x + 20 * (1 if th.axis_maximum.x - th.position.x > 20 else -1) %}
{% set y_safe = th.position.y + 20 * (1 if th.axis_maximum.y - th.position.y > 20 else -1) %}
{% set z_safe = [th.position.z + 2, th.axis_maximum.z]|min %}
SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_PRINT_END
M400 ; wait for buffer to clear
G92 E0 ; zero the extruder
G1 E-5.0 F1800 ; retract filament
TURN_OFF_HEATERS
G90 ; absolute positioning
G0 X{x_safe} Y{y_safe} Z{z_safe} F20000 ; move nozzle to remove stringing
G0 X{th.axis_maximum.x//2} Y{th.axis_maximum.y - 2} F3600 ; park nozzle at rear
M107 ; turn off fan
BED_MESH_CLEAR
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=STATE_PRINT_END
[gcode_macro ZUP]
gcode:
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=0.01 MOVE=1
[gcode_macro ZDOWN]
gcode:
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.01 MOVE=1
[gcode_macro ZDOWNSMALL]
gcode:
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.005 MOVE=1
[gcode_macro GO_TO_CENTER]
gcode:
G0 X175 Y175 Z20 F3600
#*#
#*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
#*#
#*# [heater_bed]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 39.727
#*# pid_ki = 1.182
#*# pid_kd = 333.707
#*#
#*# [extruder]
#*# control = pid
#*# pid_kp = 26.617
#*# pid_ki = 1.658
#*# pid_kd = 106.802
#*#
#*# [input_shaper]
#*# shaper_type_x = mzv
#*# shaper_freq_x = 50.8
#*# shaper_type_y = mzv
#*# shaper_freq_y = 37.8
#*# position_endstop = 1.980
#*#
#*# [bed_mesh default]
#*# version = 1
#*# points =
#*# 0.102500, 0.078750, 0.088750, 0.093750, 0.150000
#*# 0.047500, 0.070000, 0.025000, 0.027500, 0.052500
#*# 0.042500, 0.028750, 0.000000, 0.007500, 0.060000
#*# 0.081250, 0.046250, 0.028750, 0.045000, 0.080000
#*# 0.130000, 0.136250, 0.108750, 0.082500, 0.153750
#*# tension = 0.2
#*# min_x = 40.0
#*# algo = bicubic
#*# y_count = 5
#*# mesh_y_pps = 2
#*# min_y = 40.0
#*# x_count = 5
#*# max_y = 310.0
#*# mesh_x_pps = 2
#*# max_x = 310.0
@@scottcorn Thanks i will check out ✌🏻
I made it to the end a couple times. My Raspberry PI OS image got corrupted. MORAL TO THE STORY: Backup your Printer.config so you don't have to do this again.
4:48 in my case it didn't work :c
Why are you typing all this stuff , there is a macro for every operation of this included in the printer.cfg you have there , you also have home x , home y , home z and hope all buttons , I`m sure its very confsing to newbies why that can`t just use the buttons and have to type all that . Its all the same thing . I appreciate all the time and effort you put into this but , you are making it more difficult than it needs to be really . you don`t need M114 at all its right there in front of you, you don`t need G28 , thats what the home buttons do , etc etc .
i cant seem to get it. with ping mainsailos.local i get name or service unknown.
Sorry was away from my computer this weekend.
There is any number of things that can cause this on your network. Really the next best thing to do is to go to your router and look for the Raspberry PI to get the address.
I've not seen the imager fail to set up the network but you can never say never.