วีดีโอ

My top cap leaked but it was cause because it had warped out of shape. The lever will naturally have a purge system by which if you have bled it recently it will leak out excess fluid as they normally get slightly over filled when bleeding.

No the lever blade can be removed with the master cylinder it attached to the hose. 👍

I found the 11 to be quieter. It might be better aerodynamically so at speed it's less noisy but both helmets do well for noise ratings.

Black and pink is their signature colours for the brand Muc Off.

As it's rear it will be 10mm

I have never tried that. I suspect it would work . If the o rings seem like they wouldn't seal or work then copper washers would. Either O.D 10mm or 8mm copper washers, probably 1mm thick and internally 6mm.

Hi That's just a case of doing small circles rather than pushing the it straight down. Something like this - th-cam.com/video/fSwi0duinXQ/w-d-xo.html

Oh you mean the plastic thing they put in there from the factory? You should be able to pull it out, wiggle it or grab it with pliers.

You're welcome. It's a strange design choice from Hope with that one.

I agree. A lot of the issue is lack of mic and then the wooden work bench creates a lot of reverb.

I don't know the specific name for it, it's just a bearing puller from a slide hammer bearing kit.

@@Chambers36TheEnter ok thank you

I have not experience that issue so unsure what the issue is.

One way, which is not 100% successful first time. . Would be to remove the wheel and pump the brake a little bit so that the pads come out a bit further then when you refit the wheel the pads would be closer to the disc resulting in less lever travel before they make contact with the disc. I did that method above with a set of shimano brakes and it have only 5mm of lever travel before the pads bit, it was very on/off feeling but I liked it. Another option could be thicker discs. The standard discs tend to be around 1.8mm thick, you can get 2.0mm discs and also 2.3mm disc. It depends on the limitation of the SRAM caliper to what thickness of disc you can use. As for the circlip, well I have not worked on these brakes for a long time now but looking at a diagram of the lever I don't believe a thicker circlip would work for a few reasons. It is a cheap option so might be worth a shot, however here's my reasons way I don't think it would work. . 1. There is a groove for the cirlcip to fit into and a thicker one would potentially not fit in that groove. 2. If you push the piston down further into the bore of the master cylinder it could block the return hole, meaning the caliper pistons wouldn't release when you let go of the brake. 3. I think the washer would block the thicker circlip from moving the piston so it wouldn't change anything. Bit of a long answer, sorry.

Heya thanks for the reply. Great insights. I ended up fixing my issue by accident. I saw a video for getting the calliper pistons lubed to make them less sticky and in the process I think I managed to squeeze more fluid into the system by moving the pistons around with the syringe attached at the lever, now they take nice and early. Stoked. I’ll need to come back to this video soon though as I think my one lever’s piston is sticking. Probably also swollen.

Hi, It could be that the other one is just a non-stealthamajig version. As far as I can tell it's just a plug so that SRAM can fill the levers with fluid from the factory, you connect your hose and it's pre-bleed so it's no great loss if you don't have it. Also means if you want to trim the hoses in the future it will be cheaper on the non stealthamajig version.

@@Chambers36TheEnter Ah thats perfect, cheers for that man! Was getting worried haha

I think it's difficult to know as all brands of footwear have their own size guide. My foot is 26cm long with a width of 10.5 cm and I picked a 8.5 UK which is a EU 43. If you can buy the 42 and 43 and keep the one that fits better.

@@Chambers36TheEnter Thanks

I agree, it's a right bugger.

Thanks. You can use hopes silicone lube on the piston seals before putting them back in or even some DOT fluid. Best way I found is to not push them in straight but to push them in very softly whilst wiggling the pistons around in small circles. Like this - th-cam.com/video/fSwi0duinXQ/w-d-xo.html

@@Chambers36TheEnter thank you very much sir.

I use them in romania ( 40 degrees these days) and it's pretty ok. no complaining

I would say so compared to other shoes that I tried, I found these and the Leatt's to be on the bigger side of things when it comes to toe boxes. Mine are still holding up well a year later. They offer no protection if it rains and are very stiff to walk in, otherwise I find them good for my 20-30 mile rides. If you want a lot of grip on the pedals then the sole might not be that great as it's quite hard wearing and lacks some grip.

@@Chambers36TheEnter Thanks, I tried Specialized shoes on - the toe box is very cramped from above.

@@NeRR2 Yeah I tried Etnies, Specialized, Endura and all had toe boxes that were either too narrow or too shallow. 5 Ten is owned by Adidas so I think they might come up narrow in the toe box also.

It's worth checking inside the master cylinder where the piston goes to see if there is any metal that has rubbed away. Sometimes the master cylinder body gets scratched inside and that can lead to problems also.

@@Chambers36TheEnter thanks for the hint. BTW, do you know of any changes to the master cylinder shortly after tech 4s were released? I did read in Mtb forums that there were some issues with tech 4s from the first batches. Changing the master cylinder solved the problem. But not sure if there was a change to the cylinder or if it was a production issue.

@@BiecherBender I'm not too sure if they made any changes to the tech 4.

Yes that can be done. There is a circlip that holds the piston in place so even with the lever blade removed it won't leak or cause any reason for you re-bleed it. Someone who did just the lever replacement th-cam.com/video/oCSfgOu6Osg/w-d-xo.html

I can't be sure as I've not done it myself but I have purchased a lot of brakes with this issue, the sellers said they had changed the fluid only a few months ago so it seems like you have about 4-8 weeks before things start to become apparent. That was mineral oil in DOT fluid brakes, I'd imagine DOT fluid on a mineral oil seal will react a lot quicker.

@@Chambers36TheEnter okay thank so much for the info it helps a lot! Unfortunately I made the mistake of putting dot fluid in my rear brake that is meant for mineral oil. So I’m shopping for a new rear brake set now haha

​@Chambers36TheEnter what's the best way to clean out brakes which have had the wrong oil in? Do they need a total rebuild?

Hi, thanks and yes it should be the same procedure. The only difference should be the mineral oil brakes have mineral oil specific seals.

Thank you. It's a big longer than I'd had hoped for but hopefully all the information is there to help people.

No worries. You're probably one of very few people who own this unit and acutally needed to do some maintenance on it.

Thank you. I'm not too sure on these specific bearings but I use simplybearings and wychbearings, depending who has the required bearing at the best price.

Thanks I will have a look .

Thank you but sadly I am not too sure on the size of piston but there is cheap kits on ebay if you look around. Something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186430477147

Mine are still going strong a year later with very little deflation over time. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for the advise. I will look into buying a set. I do worry these videos are too long but I'd also imagine some people being quite nervous about doing such jobs so try to cover multiple possibilities.

@@Chambers36TheEnter Yes, I wouldnt worry about too much detail. Keep going!

Thank you. If you get around to it, I'd like to know if you're hub axle has any free play as standard when the end caps are removed. I thought maybe this is why I was given the hub for free.

@Chambers36TheEnter yeah sure. I'll let you know, mine will be complete wheel and change all bearings, I'll have my mechanic with me as well so I don't do something "Joe'ish" or stupid

@@JoeJoe-C137 Nice one thank you.

It might be worth replacing the pivot if it's not new. I have seen quote a few of them wear down over time. If it's a well used brake it could actually be the master cylinder body that's worn but this is quite rare for tech 3 brakes and I don't know how you would go about fixing that unless you can machine your own pivot to a bigger diameter along with the lever. .

@Chambers36TheEnter thanks there about 3 years old used every week on e bike only just noticed the play .il try replace the pivot thanks