Thank you so much for this - replacing mine soon so it's great seeing what tools I need and how to do it! The local bike shop said the hub will only need 2x 6803, thank god I found your video...
Thank you. If you get around to it, I'd like to know if you're hub axle has any free play as standard when the end caps are removed. I thought maybe this is why I was given the hub for free.
@Chambers36TheEnter yeah sure. I'll let you know, mine will be complete wheel and change all bearings, I'll have my mechanic with me as well so I don't do something "Joe'ish" or stupid
Great video thanks! Helped me a lot so far but still need to order some tools to get the bearing press over the thru axl. The sockets at 23:50, where did you order those? Or how are they called? Are they specifically for hubs or just some custom tools? Thanks!
Subbed! Great video mate, very informative, I'm about to do a quick service of the free hub and thinking about using Chris King oil instead of grease and only on the pawls, I like them loud too :)
Cheers. I have yet to try oil for the pawls. It's probably the better option as it has less chance of overpowering the return spring on the pawl system, so less likely to cause them to seize up.
I use oil on the pawls, I've been doing it for donkeys years on hubs like this, you dont kneed the fancy DT Swiss stuff either. Ive used a v small can of air rifle oil it costs about a fiver and lasts for decades..... makes them run lovely. makes servcing a breeze when the time comes.
4:30 Correct me if I’m wrong, but doesn’t this design require full bearing replacement because the axle ridge (?) pushes on the inner race during extraction? Maybe just one side because after pushing the axle out in one direction, a proper bearing extractor could be used for the other side.
I would agree, with this method I would always change both bearings. Because, like you say the axle is pushing against the bearing and if you're hammering it, it could damage it. An extraction tool would be good for saving the bearing if that's what you require.
It's because I wouldn't be able to use a normal press drift on the opposite side because none of the press drifts have a hole in the middle big enough to slide over the hubs axle. I only have that one silver tool. If I had 2 then I could press both bearings back into the hub but I might need a longer thread for the press then.
I have the same hub and the top cap on the freehub body on mine is very loose, would come off with no effort at all. Am I missing any rubber bushings i it? Thanks.
Did you ever work out the source of the axle play? I have a full wheel with one of these that has some axle play even when assembled and on the bike. Sounds like yours is only with the end caps removed?
I never found the source sadly. To me it seemed like the axle wasn't in spec. The lips on the axle were every so slightly too close together so when in installed it was able to rock back and forth from one bearing to another. Yes, for me adding the end caps removed the play as then the hub is held in place in the bikes frame. Mine was only side to side play. If you have play where you can rock the wheel back and forth it might be an issue with the bearings, but if they are new bearings and not loose then yes it's potentially the axle that's the issue.
@@Chambers36TheEnter la mia tambien hace juego el rin de esa parte oscila me imagino que es parte del diseño de las mazas , ya que no veo forma de evitarlo
Apart from the hub support tool( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403791461247 )which is made by HOPE TECH UK, the rest are just generic tools, quite cheap one as wel. Bearing puller. I only used one of the components in the video - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364916133552 Punch set. - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315837723721 Press. - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226389812714 Hammer is a 701 Thor nylon -www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364989973898
I think its better to put some grease between the freehub and the hub where the pawls are. My wheel stuck after a few weeks/months of not riding the bike due to rust build up and only I got it free when I loosen the quick release. The movement loosened up after a long ride though... I think moisture can get in there and some grease can prevent that and to get in the bearings. I am going to take it apart soon and i am sure it will be bone dry and rusty. Rust cause more wear there then some dirt caught by the grease. Anyway thanks for the video, it was easy to follow the steps.
[Edit: Confirmed…just purchased and used it] I think something like this from Harbor Freight: PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece - Item 62601 / 95987
TBH they were very brittle and were fraying with tiny strips of rubber coming off of them. I used some silicone lube on them and just pushed them back into the little grove inside the cap. They are easy to pinch so be a bit careful.
I have this hub..tonight I was at a stop. I rocked back and forth holding my rear brake...there had been some play and my disk completely snapped off and bent. Lost rear brake. I was able to ride it home. I just bought this wheel from trek and they installed it. I hope it's under warranty. Can the part the disk attaches to with the 6 Bolts be removed from the hub and replaced or is it one peice with the hub? I wish I could post a picture lol
Well normally people just service the hub when it's laced to a rim but I received this only as a hub so made the video. Cost is about £30 for the bearings vs a new wheel which would be like £200+ for this kind of spec
Thank you so much for this - replacing mine soon so it's great seeing what tools I need and how to do it! The local bike shop said the hub will only need 2x 6803, thank god I found your video...
No problem, thanks for the comment.
Your timing could not be better!!! Nice one for uploading 👍
Thank you. If you get around to it, I'd like to know if you're hub axle has any free play as standard when the end caps are removed. I thought maybe this is why I was given the hub for free.
@Chambers36TheEnter yeah sure. I'll let you know, mine will be complete wheel and change all bearings, I'll have my mechanic with me as well so I don't do something "Joe'ish" or stupid
@@JoeJoe-C137 Nice one thank you.
Great to have this as reference when the time to replace comes, thanks! I have the same bearing press :)
Great video thanks! Helped me a lot so far but still need to order some tools to get the bearing press over the thru axl. The sockets at 23:50, where did you order those? Or how are they called? Are they specifically for hubs or just some custom tools? Thanks!
They are tools made by hope. HHTT182 & HTT1004 Hope Pro 2 Hubb bearing support.
Yes they are specifically for this kind of job.
Subbed! Great video mate, very informative, I'm about to do a quick service of the free hub and thinking about using Chris King oil instead of grease and only on the pawls, I like them loud too :)
Cheers. I have yet to try oil for the pawls. It's probably the better option as it has less chance of overpowering the return spring on the pawl system, so less likely to cause them to seize up.
I use oil on the pawls, I've been doing it for donkeys years on hubs like this, you dont kneed the fancy DT Swiss stuff either. Ive used a v small can of air rifle oil it costs about a fiver and lasts for decades..... makes them run lovely. makes servcing a breeze when the time comes.
4:30 Correct me if I’m wrong, but doesn’t this design require full bearing replacement because the axle ridge (?) pushes on the inner race during extraction?
Maybe just one side because after pushing the axle out in one direction, a proper bearing extractor could be used for the other side.
I would agree, with this method I would always change both bearings. Because, like you say the axle is pushing against the bearing and if you're hammering it, it could damage it.
An extraction tool would be good for saving the bearing if that's what you require.
@@Chambers36TheEnter Agreed, but you could only get an extractor out after one side is hammered out because the inner sleeve is in the way initially.
24:26 Why not press it at this point with that extension bit?
It's because I wouldn't be able to use a normal press drift on the opposite side because none of the press drifts have a hole in the middle big enough to slide over the hubs axle. I only have that one silver tool. If I had 2 then I could press both bearings back into the hub but I might need a longer thread for the press then.
I have the same hub and the top cap on the freehub body on mine is very loose, would come off with no effort at all. Am I missing any rubber bushings i it? Thanks.
There should be some rubber rings inside the caps, there is a groove for them to sit into.
@@Chambers36TheEnter i see. Might be missing those. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the vid. Where can i buy the plastic bases??
The one I use is the Hope HTT167 hub support tool but if you look up hub support tool there is a few others.
I'm guessing you mean the item at 1:52?
Did you ever work out the source of the axle play? I have a full wheel with one of these that has some axle play even when assembled and on the bike. Sounds like yours is only with the end caps removed?
I never found the source sadly. To me it seemed like the axle wasn't in spec. The lips on the axle were every so slightly too close together so when in installed it was able to rock back and forth from one bearing to another.
Yes, for me adding the end caps removed the play as then the hub is held in place in the bikes frame. Mine was only side to side play.
If you have play where you can rock the wheel back and forth it might be an issue with the bearings, but if they are new bearings and not loose then yes it's potentially the axle that's the issue.
@@Chambers36TheEnter la mia tambien hace juego el rin de esa parte oscila me imagino que es parte del diseño de las mazas , ya que no veo forma de evitarlo
@@Chambers36TheEnter re the play have you checked the outer freehub body bearing?
best I have seen thanks
Thank you. It's a bit longer than I'd had hoped for but hopefully all the information is there to help people.
Hi! Where did you get all the tools and from wich brand? :)
Apart from the hub support tool( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403791461247 )which is made by HOPE TECH UK, the rest are just generic tools, quite cheap one as wel.
Bearing puller. I only used one of the components in the video - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364916133552
Punch set. - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315837723721
Press. - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226389812714
Hammer is a 701 Thor nylon -www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364989973898
I think its better to put some grease between the freehub and the hub where the pawls are. My wheel stuck after a few weeks/months of not riding the bike due to rust build up and only I got it free when I loosen the quick release. The movement loosened up after a long ride though...
I think moisture can get in there and some grease can prevent that and to get in the bearings. I am going to take it apart soon and i am sure it will be bone dry and rusty. Rust cause more wear there then some dirt caught by the grease.
Anyway thanks for the video, it was easy to follow the steps.
perfect video just trying to do mine, do you know what's that tool called you used pulling out the end caps? thanks
I don't know the specific name for it, it's just a bearing puller from a slide hammer bearing kit.
@@Chambers36TheEnter ok thank you
[Edit: Confirmed…just purchased and used it]
I think something like this from Harbor Freight:
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece - Item 62601 / 95987
@@tylerseboe thank you
How did you Get the o-rings back in the caps?
TBH they were very brittle and were fraying with tiny strips of rubber coming off of them.
I used some silicone lube on them and just pushed them back into the little grove inside the cap.
They are easy to pinch so be a bit careful.
I have this hub..tonight I was at a stop. I rocked back and forth holding my rear brake...there had been some play and my disk completely snapped off and bent. Lost rear brake. I was able to ride it home. I just bought this wheel from trek and they installed it. I hope it's under warranty. Can the part the disk attaches to with the 6 Bolts be removed from the hub and replaced or is it one peice with the hub? I wish I could post a picture lol
The 6 bolt part is machined with the rest of the hub, you can't replace it individually.
@Chambers36TheEnter Dang ok. Hopefully they honor warranty. We shall see.
@@Chambers36TheEnter thanks for the reply
Dismantle spokes, service and then rebuild wheel. No thanks, just buy new again.
Well normally people just service the hub when it's laced to a rim but I received this only as a hub so made the video. Cost is about £30 for the bearings vs a new wheel which would be like £200+ for this kind of spec