Shimano SLX M7000 Lever Strip Down Piston Seals - Master Cylinder - A Look Inside - FreeStroke
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- SLX M7000 Lever Strip Down.
Things haven't changed a lot for Shimano lever, could be a good thing right? This process is very similar to levers I worked on from the early 2010s.
0:00 Intro (This video is about. . .)
00:30 Rubber grommet
00:52 Grub screw
01:17 Lever pivot removal (Slides out of the top)
04:00 Removing plunger and cam
04:55 Freestroke screw might block pivot
05:10 Removing freestroke screw has its advantages
05:50 Removing plastic guides + free stroke mechanism
07:20 Removing piston (If stuck)
08:20 Piston seals (Sorry, a lot out of shot)
10:28 Installing piston with spring
12:03 Installing guides and free stroke mechanism
14:35 Installing the plunger and cam system
17:00 Free stroke screw dimensions (thread diameter 3.9mm)
17:35 Free stroke mechanism close up (How it works or doesn't as the case may be)
19:05 Lever blade (Could have cut this out)
19:27 Installing the lever blade to master cylinder (You will hate that spring)
23:40 Mr grub screw (My guess 1-2nm)
24:10 Rubber grommet and Finished - กีฬา
Thanks for the detailed video and step by step instructions. The ball ended Allen key did not help in aligning the spring at the end of the video as it was preventing you from pushing it enough for the pivot to go through.
Good vid this, filmed in detail to the point where I reckon I could almost follow the process if it was muted. Its just saved me about £90 for a new XTR M9020 cylinder/lever assembly after my cylinder piston seized. I didn't think you could get any spares for Shimano so I was looking on line for a replacement unit, which I couldn't find (bike and brakes were new in 2016). There were plenty of M9120s about but they are not an exact match and my OCD couldn't have lived with it. So then I was looking at getting a whole new front and rear set up and possibly replacing both ends with Hope, Formula or TRPs. While Googling Shimano replacements I clocked a link to a 'How to' vid for Shimano brakes, it wasnt this vid and it was not detailed enough to attempt my own service/rebuild but it did explain that a new piston with seals could be bought and also indicated that XT and XTR SLX pistons and strip down details were identical so i started looking at the other vids on the subject and this was the clearest in visual details and probably the most informative. As i was watching it through I recalled fitting a replacement XT Deore cylinder assembly onto a mates bike last year after he snapped a lever, I gave him a call, asked if he still had the old one? 'Yes'. 'Can I buy it?' 'No you can have it'. Stripped his old (almost new)XT down and then my seized one. Job done and the bike has only been out of action 48 hours. I will say with regard to my XTRs; they don't have the 2 plastic guides and the plastic free stroke rocker pivots on its own tiny knock out pin that passes through the body of the cylinder, getting that out was the hardest part of the job but only because the pin is only about 1.5mm in diameter and finding a panel pin small and strong enough to do the job took longer than the whole services and fluid replacement / bleed .
I don't know why Shimano are like that, more people would buy their brakes if they offered more detailed spares and have individual part numbers.
Knowing Shimano they could have deore, slx and xt all use the same part but then give totally different part numbers to each of them.
Glad that you got it sorted and that the video was helpful to you.
@@Chambers36TheEnter Its the whole bike industry mate it's not just Shimano, its the whole industry that has a piss poor attitude to spares and standardising some fittings. Im 23 years a draughtsman with 20 years of manual work in mining and engineering behind me so Im no idiot but I have to deliberate and research and trust in other before I dare buy any spares for my MTBs, I just cant work out what Im supposed to buy because there are so many variations between frame and component manufacturers.
Back when i rode MX bikes I could order any part of my bike because every part had a number. and every part number was assigned to an assembly number. It aslo came with a manual that was specific to the bikes year and model and contained enough info to find an identity for an item such as a circlip. Ive only had Scotts but the manuals are just generic to Scott bikes for the most. I only know what bits and bobs are fitted to my bikes by searching reviews that list the specs at the end of the review. How bad is that. That is the only reason that I know my version of an 2016 XTR is a M2020. I really dont understand why I cant log into Scott and access a full list of parts fitted to every year and variation of a model. I wouldnt have a clue what bb to buy in for my bike, I can change it, i just cant order it without ripping the old one out , measuring it and then ringing up a supplier to confirm Im ordering the right parts. I shouldnt have to be ordering a magnifying glass to identify the serial number on a linkage bearing etc. Shit like that should be made easier by the bike manufacturers, they bloody charge enough. Sorry, got carried away with my pet hate with MTBs. Rant over, dont feel the need to go into an equally lengthy reply :) :) :)
@@miathemalinoisgsdx1320 Sadly it's why I mainly deal with Hope stuff, they have a nice catalogue for their spares, their site has diagrams for all the spares with part numbers. I also have so far kept with frames that have threaded bottom brackets because all the PF30, PF46, PF82, PF92 puts me in a situation like you mentioned above where the only way I would be able to know what part was needed would be to remove the part and measure it. I'd like to think that in their home country of Japan the Shimano spares are easy to obtain, the idea that these parts are thrown away because of the sake of a £2 seal seems very wasteful.
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@@Chambers36TheEnter £2 seal in a £80 component at that.
this is a top guide, this is how a strip down is done, excellent advice aswell, i'm going to find out how different the m7000 is to the m675, i hope the initial lever pull is slighty stiffer like the m675, i had the m6000 deore lever for the 4 pot caliper and i don't like that initial level travel, feels like dead space, so this vid is great for me now if the used m7000 lever i brought needs work or not, i can refer to this vid.
Thanks for the feedback.
It could be because the 4 pot needs more fluids to move all the 4 pistons that you end up with lever travel, unless the M675 with a 4 pot is actually different.
With that kind of dead space, sometime it is possible to get rid of some of that by taking the wheel off and pulling the lever slightly.
That way the pads/caliper pistons will come out (just a tiny amount needed) and will sit closer to the disc so when you do pull the lever there is less travel. Downside of that is that it can be a big pain to get all 4 pistons aligned, it's easier with 2 piston calipers.
Done this on a M8000 lever, that servo wave mechanism is fiddly af
I agree, it's a design I have seen on their 2010 era hydraulic levers, wonder if the newest stuff is the same.
I've seen a lot of wear on the servo wave area on older levers.
Can I ask, when fitting a new piston what grease should I lube the seals up with please?
My lbs gave me a blob of red grease but I'm not sure they knew what the job I have planned was.
If it's lithium wouldn't it eat away at the seals?
You can use the Shimano Mineral oil to lube the piston seals in the master cylinder.
The red grease the shop gave you is probably red rubber grease which is compatible with braking systems, I prefer Hunter silicone lube if I do need to lube up the seals as it requires less lube and is less messy.