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@@lexmak87 Yup.

@@Evintos awesome, best video I’ve seen honestly. The bag is a smart hack

Ouch. Part number C5A326, Midwest Gunworks and Brownells is out of stock. Cole Fine Guns and Freedom Fighter Tactical might have it in stock. It's pretty expensive for that D ring, so you might wanna try calling or emailing Beretta just to see if they're willing to send you one for free.

@@Evintos thank you for the wild fast response. I already emailed Beretta, but then you for the part number. That's clutch. Sometimes I blow my own mind, I legit yeeted that thing lol.

Vortex Optics Crossfire CF-RD2 red dot. 50,000 hour battery life, CR2032 battery, Aimpoint T1/T2 footprint on an Aridus Industries CROM mount. For a shotgun, I like the tube style micro red dots instead of square-ish MRDS (like the Trijicon RMR) because entire red dot housing can act as a pseudo ghost ring rear sight and the pellet pattern for my particular load is circular in shape (Federal Powershok 9 pellet 00 buck). If the dot fails, for home defense distances, all of the pellets will land within the perimeter outlined by the lens of the red dot.

Conceptually this product is great, but execution, QC, or final finishing is lacking it seems. While I was able to get mine to work reasonably well with some polishing of parts here and there, a customer shouldn't have been required to make such modifications to get a working product.

Having skills in a tool box won't hurt. Being able to employ skills in a situation is a matter of time, opportunity and most importantly, competence. Competition gunning evolved pistol shooting to the modern day thumbs forward grip in isosceles stance. Otherwise pistol shooters would be shooting tea cup, or thumb-over-thumb in a weaver stance, or worse, bladed bullseye pistol stance as taught back in WW1 and WW2.

You're gonna love the pro lifter. It's so simple of a design change yet making such a large difference in the ease of loading.

@@Evintos Hey, got it done. The funny thing is installing the lifter to the trigger pack took about 5 minutes..getting my trigger pack back in the shotgun had me pulling my hair out! And yes you're right, I love it. Thanks again!

@@kr3w17 The spring retaining cap is just held in by friction.

So just use pliers?

@@kr3w17 There's a hole in the center of the cap that you can put a finger in and lift out. If your finger is too large, you'll need pliers.

@@Evintos Got it. Stubborn bastard! Just loaded 7. Now I need to figure out how to get 8+1. I just got this a few days ago. Thanks!

​@@kr3w17Check out the ghost load vid if you haven't done so already. th-cam.com/video/8FWaJbxGI1g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=40rxWNVtbuarKWTS

The particular one on my shotgun is a RCI Xtra Shell caddy by Roth Performance (sku - 1601-XTRASHELL) secured using a single Magpul MLOK Tnut and screw (sku - MAG615), and a little bit of velcro (hook side on handguard, loop side on the caddy) to prevent it from rotating. The screw for the MLOK Tnut needs to be shortened otherwise it protrudes too far in and rubs against the rod of the bolt carrier. Without velcro, it won't shift fore/aft but it will start to rotate every 4th "swipe" and be completely loose and basically free spin by around the 10th use depending on ambient temperature. This is with the MLOK torqued to Magpul specifications for polymer handguards (15 in/lbs). I would recommend velcro or one of the included caddy screws (limited to 1 MLOK tnut in that area of the handguard) to prevent the rotation. I recommend the velcro over another screw simply because you can fine tune the feed angle of the caddy to fit your hand motion without drilling holes. I bought mine off the Roth performance Ebay site (www.ebay.com/itm/154267245150?hash=item23eb0b5a5e:g:oMoAAOSwEaJd6Acs). You can also order off their main site rothperformance.com/product/rci-xtra-shell-caddy/ i.imgur.com/cgANVJR.jpg i.imgur.com/BOkKvCG.jpg

Make sure you keep at it with the practice. I practice about 5 minutes every other day and I still don't think I'm fast or smooth enough with it.

Unfortunately no. I actually tried (ordered two because initially it was advertised to work with both Comp and Tactical receivers. JKenny didn't know that the receivers were two different lengths). The lifter is essentially two pieces and no amount of modification would make the 2nd piece (the one that is towards the rear) function with the shorter tactical model receiver.

It is an Aridus Industries Universal Q-DC. You can buy directly from them or from some of Aridus' retailers.

If youre gonna do a full size red dot go with Aridus. If you want to do a pistol red dot go with Mesa Tacticals SureShell. The red dot mount and the side saddle are all one piece and you can choose aluminum or polymer.

It's on an Aridus Industries 1301 zhukov handguard (aftermarket) that has an MLOK slot at the rear. If you didn't have that, you can direct drill the shell caddy onto the OEM handguard.

Yup, #7.5 and #8 birdshot (Herters, Federal, Monarch, Winchester, Clever T1), 9 pellet 00 Federal Power-Shok Buckshot, D.Dupleks Dupo 28 slugs, no issues with any of those. I've tested it in all seasons with air temps having been as low as -8*F up to just below 90*F in rain, sunshine and snow/ice. Lubrication of choice is ALG Go-Juice and ALG 0000 Grease. If it was a problem, feeding from the magazine tube in a normal function would also be a problem as it launches out of the tube, part of the shotgun base impacts two a protruding surface that is part of the trigger guard. There shouldn't be any issue with the following round catching a sharp edge because the lifter itself has a "rails" (for a lack of a better term) to keep the shell centered on the lifter so an off angle hit is less likely. The primer slightly recessed (a few thou) below flush in properly made ammo also helps prevents this scenario. Basically, a person would have to be seriously unlucky for it to happen. I also can't guarantee that ghost loading is reliable for everyone as people have had bad experiences with the 1301 from factory. My 1301s were purchased pre-COVID and there are a fair amount of covid era production 1301s that left the factory with improperly made shell release latches and other issues. Also have to mention that people have different ways of maintaining their firearm which may play a role in reliability (might not work well with your lubrication of choice for example). Summary - I'll always recommend that people test it out on their specific shotgun and ammo choice to see if it's reliable.

Thank you for the fast response. I will practice a little more with the snapcaps, and then start keeping it loaded with 9, as this is my #1 home defense go to. Thanks again for such a clear, informative, concise post.

Yes you can. It's called cruiser ready or patrol ready. The steps is the same except leave out that chamber round.

@@Evintos Great! Thanks!

wrong.

okay boomer

You have to pull the bolt back juat far enough to get the shell in then oush down on the brass once its on the lifter to keep it below the bolt. Once the bolt slides past the brass you can let it go by itself.

It's most commonly called a Match Saver or extra shell caddy. The particular one on my shotgun is a RCI Xtra Shell caddy by Roth Performance (sku - 1601-XTRASHELL) secured using a single Magpul MLOK Tnut and screw (sku - MAG615), and a little bit of velcro (hook side on handguard, loop side on the caddy) to prevent it from rotating. The screw for the MLOK Tnut needs to be shortened otherwise it protrudes too far in and rubs against the rod of the bolt carrier. Without velcro, it won't shift fore/aft but it will start to rotate every 4th "swipe" and be completely loose and basically free spin by around the 10th use depending on ambient temperature. This is with the MLOK torqued to Magpul specifications for polymer handguards (15 in/lbs). I would recommend velcro or one of the included caddy screws (limited to 1 MLOK tnut in that area of the handguard) to prevent the rotation. I recommend the velcro over another screw simply because you can fine tune the feed angle of the caddy to fit your hand motion without drilling holes. I bought mine off the Roth performance Ebay site (www.ebay.com/itm/154267245150?hash=item23eb0b5a5e:g:oMoAAOSwEaJd6Acs). You can also order off their main site rothperformance.com/product/rci-xtra-shell-caddy/ i.imgur.com/cgANVJR.jpg i.imgur.com/BOkKvCG.jpg

@@Evintos thanks bro 👍🏻

Midwest USA, central time zone (don't want to get too specific). It's around $995 USD shipped via FedEx and arrived in 4 days. Quick Anneal sent me an invoice via Yoco (a payment processor) for R18540 (South African Rand/ZAR) - depending on USD/RAND currency conversion rate, it may be higher or lower than $995 USD (did not have to pay US customs tax). Some credit cards will charge a "foreign transaction fee" so if making a payment, ensure you use a card that doesn't have one or use a card that charges the lowest amount for that fee. If your credit card also has the option of setting up a "virtual account", do so as that would provide extra added protection from fraud or data breaches.

Thanks I’m on the west coast myself. I sent them a email and then saw your video. Figured I would ask.

Do you have an experience with the AMP Mate Annealer? If so how would you say it compares?

@@andrewmack7160 I did use my buddy's AMP mk2 (no AMP mate) for 100 pieces of 308 brass manual feeding. The process of inserting a case in the holder and then having to remove the case out of the machine after annealing is done bugged the hell outta me which is why I went with the Quick Anneal. I can just drop a case in and it auto ejects out. The other thing I didn't like about the AMP was the various different pilots required for different calibers. Auto case feeder capability didn't matter to me but the both the AMP mk2 and Quick Anneal are capable of it. If you were to add a case feeder to the Quick Anneal it'd be cheaper but you'd have to play with the motor speed so it doesn't drop cases through a drop tube into the annealer too fast. I had a flame annealer with pressure regulator running propane prior to the Quick Anneal. In terms of doing the job of annealing, I say the results are pretty much the same between AMP, Quick Anneal and pressure regulated flame, although annealing via induction is faster by a few seconds. However, I don't have a hardness tester to prove it and only judge it by the consistency in my shoulder bump measurements and consistency in neck ID after using an expander mandrel (<0.0005" brass spring back)

​@andrewmack7160 Quick Anneal is better than an amp, which is why all the Champions are running them but they keep it to them selfs to have the edge. Better features and adjustability to fire form etc that amp does not have

It's a good annealer for sure, despite the case anomaly detection feature being of limited use (my opinion). If a person is used to a flame annealer and the "glow method" of setting anneal times and aren't bothered by it, I don't think anyone would be disappointed by the Quick Anneal at all. If mentally a person has to have a preprogrammed time set for them based on a case analyzed, the AMP would be for them, as that mental hurdle would be too great for the Quick Anneal to overcome.

Im concerned on the fit for 6BR , shorter than 223 ???@@Evintos

@@Aldocello1 i.imgur.com/LO5rlYi.jpg th-cam.com/video/L29k2LX8qKM/w-d-xo.html It'll be able to anneal cases longer than approximately 0.750" - 0.770"

Far more better than amp

Nope, didn't go with the lapping option.