Henry - A couple of suggestions. First, when wet sanding, put a drop of liquid dishwashing soap in the water in your spray bottle. This helps the sandpaper glide over the paint and not dig in. Second, unless you bake the car under infrared lights, or some other form of heating, for about 12 to 24 hours, you should wait at least 2 weeks and preferably 4 weeks before you start any wet sanding or polishing. Just because the paint is dry to the touch, it doesn't mean it has fully cured to the hardness needed. That should give you a much better and shinier finish than what you got the first time.
"The standard you walk past is the standard you accept", you are definitely living by this saying, good on ya Henry, great effort here, I'm sure your Dad will be super proud of your efforts to get things just right. Merry Christmas you and your family, have a good one and make sure you get the break you deserve. Cheers Marty.
Thank you for taking the time to produce this warts and all video of spraying your car 👍 I have two projects that will require paint and your shared experience will be invaluable 🙏 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 🥳
Maybe you didn't take note of my comment earlier regarding the perils of using etch primer on the bare metal areas and how it would cause "bubbling" of the top coat. You've mixed epoxy and etch and now you know why it's not the thing to do. The sequence is epoxy prime the bare metal (or sanded down old surface), body filler on top of that. Then seal with epoxy primer again before putting on your high build primer. Block sand the high build and apply more if necessary until you have a clean and level surface - this is key to achieving a great end finish. The colour coat next and several coats so that there is sufficient depth to allow for wet sanding and polishing. Clear or varnish coat (or not) depending on the paint type being used. Your bubbling areas are all due to that etch and highbuild reaction.
Hiya. If you use a bar of soap rubbed on the wet/dry paper it will help lubricate the paper and allow it to glide over the paint. It will also help prevent the paper clogging up. This means that you actually take less paint off so the sanding is more controllable.
You displayed great determination there. Car painting is a highly skilled job and you've done very well to get where you are. Best to walk away from it and have a good break then come back afresh to finish it off.
Great effort,you didnt originally have enough paint on the car,always add an extra coat for wet flatting,800 is plenty fine enough,have a bar of soap with you to put on your wet and dry,stops the paper clogging so quick,remember those clogs scratch your paint,i find liquid G3 much better and easier than paste and you dont need much of it
This is what I mentioned on your initial paint job video. Single stage isn't the way forward in this environment, you should have used a base coat followed up by a clear coat, so when you sand back you are just removing clear and not the colour it's self. Unfortunately you have learned the hard way, it's all good experience though. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Henry , your determination to get the best possible finish on the B does you so much credit, it's looking so much better this time round, Thanks for such a great build keeping us entertained over the last few months , and we're all looking forward to seeing her complete Have a great Xmas
Have a well earned rest Henry, Merry Christmas to you and yours… lookin forward to seeing how the paint work turns out and those upgrades you’ve teased is with… All the best for 2025 🎉
Well done mate! You have inspired me to restore my 1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500. Mechanically it works perfectly, but I'm afraid I'm going to have to weld. I've never had the opportunity to weld, so I still have a lot of learning to do before I dare to do it on the car.
Try a drop or two of washing up liquid in your warm water for rubbing back with wet and dry , another little trick is to put a small amount of body filler over the run , then rub it down
There’s a specific little “Plane” used to remove Runs. Like a Wood plane but tiny. Also add a spot of Washing up liquid when wet sanding… proves a lubricant and helps the paper from clogging. Good luck.
I think you’ve done a great job considering the space you’ve got,I used to use a full bucket of water with fairy liquid not only does it make it easier you can continuously dip your wet and dry in it to clean it and don’t let it get too dry with a lot of rubbing down scum on it,if you’re patching with a spray gun do it before buffing cos you’ll end up with overspray on it, just suggesting put a light coat before final spraying it gets tacky and less runs preparation is the key degreasing stops fish eyes and never use silicone spray ie polish in your garage for 🎉
I’ll second the comment about getting a small paint gun for doing small repair jobs after a full respray. That’s how I approached small imperfections and touch in jobs. It’s part of the advantage of painting it yourself, you can always go back and make a small repair when needed. As long as you mask to make a soft edge you can cut and polish any repairs back to so they blend in with the original paint. Much less overspray in the air this time. Probably a larger extraction fan and you will have almost a perfect setup. I see you also have British Racing Green garage floor now just like mine 😊. It does wear off over time. I’m sure it will cut back and polish up great this time.
Take a look on Machine Mart under Industrial Fans and air movers. Clarke do some decent workshop fans that will shift quite a quantity of air. You will probably need to filter the intake to avoid rubbish getting sucked in once you are pulling it out at a rate of knots. Next time I do some painting I plan to copy what the guys on the Upbuild channel did when they painted their MX5. I also had to spend the day polishing the primer overspray off my F Pace which was parked on my drive in front of my garage last time I painted my BGT. I can’t believe how far it managed to travel. Made sure I parked it further away for the top coats !
That's a really nice paint job. I'm no expert but I don't go below 1000 grit when sanding dirt nibs or runs. Anyway I've enjoyed watching you restore this and you are doing a great job
Some etch primers will react with body filler.. You can buy a de-nibber (a block of wood with a file on it) to get rid of junk in the paint.. Happy Xmas 🎄 🍻
Primer is reacting with fresh paint.different gardeners can also cause this issue.this also happens if you use 1k primer on top of fresh 2k paint.only.cure is either wait a month,or use a barcoat isolator.
Another little tip keep the gun straight and the same distance away all the time because you’re arching theirs more paint in the middle than the outside.
I had to repaint my MG Midget boot lid , the same green colour used here. I actually went as far as 3000 grit on my orbital sanding before taking to McGuires compound. I dont think more coarse than 3000 grit is enough to remove all scratches. I played around quite a bit and actually repainted that boot lid 3 times before going to those super fine grits. Yes, with a foam pad to hold the discs and water. When you get to a 3000 grit the polishing is minimal. The paint reaction could be remnants of the polish or cutting compound not being cleaned fully away before repainting. I would pick a panel to work on the technique before experimenting on the whole car. There are some small mini spray guns for redoing small areas and I actually used one of those to respray the boot. They were only about 10 pounds on ebay for the mini spray guns. 20psi pressure from the gun. .
@@HJRgarage I was running at only about 20 psi with straight cellulose paint, but there was some reaction to lower layers that showed as blisters when there was a frost, probably when the restorer allowed damp into the primer. I had to sand it all right back to primer to find the fault , but the boot lid was only a small panel, then reprime and topcoat again. You have to play with the pressure and paint so there is no overspray. First I was using too high an air pressure and too much fan width and paint, the droplets were like smoke in my garage. Lowering the pressure gave good atomisation but bigger droplets and less overspray. This time of year is too cold and there are so many variables you just have to see what works with your kit. Practice on an old panel. All situations are different.
I could be wrong and I normally am but I think having a proper polisher would help as you said because it’ll get a good result quicker than a DA which is a weird way would take less paint off while achieving the finish you want?
If you do a job, why don’t do it good? It probably takes more time to learn the skill, but you end up with something good. Also, talk to people who are skilled, the head start knowledge you get from them is priceless! That is, I assume you want to do more cars in the future or, when this is a one time job, learn as much from it.
Don't get disheartened mate it's how we learn. I'm in the process of painting a ford galaxy. I'll send pics when it's done. That reaction is too much primer at once and reacted or you have contamination there. Couple of dust coats first then your ok to prime.
I don't understand why you don't make it Green pearlescent? two coats mixed in with lacquer 3-5 and then two plane coats on top. it will look like a hard boiled green sweet. I would have thought the bubbling is some type of grease you really want to go over with acetone and then isopropanol. The acetone will cut into the paint
you have not done anything wrong. its the thinners in the paint reacting with the filler or new paint because it not hardened some times you have to seal them with polyester coating
Great video Henry, everyone loves a tryer. Your warts and all efforts to succeed are a true inspiration. My only advice is, if your working nights and spending all day in the man cave, get some vitamin D supplements. I would also like to,(against political correctness). Wish you and yours a very merry Christmas and happy new year.
You have the paint to match, flat around the thin area, blow in with a touch up gun and use an aerosol blend/thinner at the edges of the spray to dissolve the dry edge into the paint. There is no need to repaint the whole car.
I'm sure theres not much that a vinyl roof and some racing stripes wouldn't fix! :-D - Authentically 70's as well - especially if you paint the bonnet matt black!
Gutted the flat down went so bad for you. It is annoying when different paints react, you needed to spray barrier paint, such as Barcoat(it’s similar to primer) over the area and you would then have been able to prime then paint the panel without any reaction
I’m 21 minutes into your video and you’re not doing the polishing process correctly at all, Send me a message somehow and I’ll talk you through the entire process because you do not understand the process, I’m a 25 year master tech and also crash damage repair and been detailing for 15 years now as well I’d like to help you before you burn through the clear coat… (You may need to flow coat it now) all the advice in the comments are from people who are not professionals. I will help you and explain some things over the phone so you can get the paint perfect as it can be.
Yes I have worked out that I am not doing it correctly! I have a friend who is a professional detailer his is going to come and give me a hand! So thanks for the offer but I should have it covered 👍🏻
I'm amassed at your patience, it looks great.
Thanks John you don’t see what happens off camera 😂
Henry - A couple of suggestions. First, when wet sanding, put a drop of liquid dishwashing soap in the water in your spray bottle. This helps the sandpaper glide over the paint and not dig in. Second, unless you bake the car under infrared lights, or some other form of heating, for about 12 to 24 hours, you should wait at least 2 weeks and preferably 4 weeks before you start any wet sanding or polishing. Just because the paint is dry to the touch, it doesn't mean it has fully cured to the hardness needed. That should give you a much better and shinier finish than what you got the first time.
Thanks! Thats the plan this time 👍🏻👍🏻
Perseverance pays off 😊 Henry hope you and yours have a magical Christmas 🎄
"The standard you walk past is the standard you accept", you are definitely living by this saying, good on ya Henry, great effort here, I'm sure your Dad will be super proud of your efforts to get things just right. Merry Christmas you and your family, have a good one and make sure you get the break you deserve. Cheers Marty.
Much appreciated! Thank you☺️
Big respect to you for not giving up you will get there and have the MG looking great good luck and happy Christmas
Thanks, you too!
Thank you for taking the time to produce this warts and all video of spraying your car 👍 I have two projects that will require paint and your shared experience will be invaluable 🙏 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 🥳
No problem thanks for watching it!
Maybe you didn't take note of my comment earlier regarding the perils of using etch primer on the bare metal areas and how it would cause "bubbling" of the top coat. You've mixed epoxy and etch and now you know why it's not the thing to do.
The sequence is epoxy prime the bare metal (or sanded down old surface), body filler on top of that. Then seal with epoxy primer again before putting on your high build primer. Block sand the high build and apply more if necessary until you have a clean and level surface - this is key to achieving a great end finish. The colour coat next and several coats so that there is sufficient depth to allow for wet sanding and polishing. Clear or varnish coat (or not) depending on the paint type being used.
Your bubbling areas are all due to that etch and highbuild reaction.
P.s use water when buffing.
Hiya. If you use a bar of soap rubbed on the wet/dry paper it will help lubricate the paper and allow it to glide over the paint. It will also help prevent the paper clogging up. This means that you actually take less paint off so the sanding is more controllable.
Thanks good to know thanks!
I agree. When I used to DIY paint in cellulose, I always wet flatted with a bar of soap to run the wet and dry over.
Well done Henry, you got there in the end. Have a great Christmas and a well deserved rest.
🤦♂️ oh yes! Thank you very much you too!
Well done on all that hard work, you have the patience of a Saint! Merry Christmas!
Haha you don’t see what happens off camera 😂 thanks merry Christmas!
Henry one good tip that compressor places it out side the garage ,think about it it's helping
You displayed great determination there. Car painting is a highly skilled job and you've done very well to get where you are. Best to walk away from it and have a good break then come back afresh to finish it off.
That’s definitely the plan! Thanks 🙏
Great effort,you didnt originally have enough paint on the car,always add an extra coat for wet flatting,800 is plenty fine enough,have a bar of soap with you to put on your wet and dry,stops the paper clogging so quick,remember those clogs scratch your paint,i find liquid G3 much better and easier than paste and you dont need much of it
Thanks! Thats really good to know 👍🏻
This is what I mentioned on your initial paint job video. Single stage isn't the way forward in this environment, you should have used a base coat followed up by a clear coat, so when you sand back you are just removing clear and not the colour it's self. Unfortunately you have learned the hard way, it's all good experience though. Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Yes I suppose! It’s all about the learning though! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
I love your determination. Persist and you will succeed.
As someone else once said hard work beats talent 😂
Henry , your determination to get the best possible finish on the B does you so much credit, it's looking so much better this time round,
Thanks for such a great build keeping us entertained over the last few months , and we're all looking forward to seeing her complete
Have a great Xmas
Thank you very much Colin! Much appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
Have a well earned rest Henry, Merry Christmas to you and yours… lookin forward to seeing how the paint work turns out and those upgrades you’ve teased is with… All the best for 2025 🎉
Thanks, you too! 👍🏻
Well done mate!
You have inspired me to restore my 1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
Mechanically it works perfectly, but I'm afraid I'm going to have to weld. I've never had the opportunity to weld, so I still have a lot of learning to do before I dare to do it on the car.
@@KciuQ244 just go for it! Best way to learn that’s how I did it. It’s only metal can to ground off and re done! Thanks for watching means a lot!
I think you've done a great job for a first attempt. I painted several cars in a single garage and a few outside. It isn't easy in those conditions.
You’re right there! Thanks!
Looking good mate its all a ball ache some times but always a learning process. And nice to stand back knowing you done it 👍👍
Definitely! Thanks 👍🏻
Try a drop or two of washing up liquid in your warm water for rubbing back with wet and dry , another little trick is to put a small amount of body filler over the run , then rub it down
I have seen this method seemed a bit more risky! 🤷🏽♂️ thanks!
@ gently does it , you get a feel for it 👍🏻
@@theteadrinker-143 I might have a go at that 👍🏻
Happy Christmas Henry ! Nice job.
Thanks, you too!
There’s a specific little “Plane” used to remove Runs. Like a Wood plane but tiny. Also add a spot of Washing up liquid when wet sanding… proves a lubricant and helps the paper from clogging. Good luck.
Cheers! Will give it a go
Here a tip I used a paint warmer when the temp were cold for car painting long ago (45 years) in my home garage. 😊
Great tip!
Well done to keep fighting! Have a good long head-clearing break and let that paint get really hard!
Happy Xmas!
Thank you! That’s the plan 👍🏻👍🏻
i have never in the 50yrs of doing this used a DA to rub or polish a car thats not what it was designed for live an learn keep up with the good work
Yep i learnt the hard way 🤷🏽♂️😂
I think you’ve done a great job considering the space you’ve got,I used to use a full bucket of water with fairy liquid not only does it make it easier you can continuously dip your wet and dry in it to clean it and don’t let it get too dry with a lot of rubbing down scum on it,if you’re patching with a spray gun do it before buffing cos you’ll end up with overspray on it, just suggesting put a light coat before final spraying it gets tacky and less runs preparation is the key degreasing stops fish eyes and never use silicone spray ie polish in your garage for 🎉
Thanks for the tips! 👍🏻
I’ll second the comment about getting a small paint gun for doing small repair jobs after a full respray. That’s how I approached small imperfections and touch in jobs. It’s part of the advantage of painting it yourself, you can always go back and make a small repair when needed. As long as you mask to make a soft edge you can cut and polish any repairs back to so they blend in with the original paint. Much less overspray in the air this time. Probably a larger extraction fan and you will have almost a perfect setup. I see you also have British Racing Green garage floor now just like mine 😊. It does wear off over time. I’m sure it will cut back and polish up great this time.
Yes I’m going to look for one if you have a link for one I’d be interested! And yes I just had to have that green floor that was the real reason 😂😂
Take a look on Machine Mart under Industrial Fans and air movers. Clarke do some decent workshop fans that will shift quite a quantity of air. You will probably need to filter the intake to avoid rubbish getting sucked in once you are pulling it out at a rate of knots. Next time I do some painting I plan to copy what the guys on the Upbuild channel did when they painted their MX5. I also had to spend the day polishing the primer overspray off my F Pace which was parked on my drive in front of my garage last time I painted my BGT. I can’t believe how far it managed to travel. Made sure I parked it further away for the top coats !
That's a really nice paint job. I'm no expert but I don't go below 1000 grit when sanding dirt nibs or runs. Anyway I've enjoyed watching you restore this and you are doing a great job
Thank you ☺️
Some etch primers will react with body filler.. You can buy a de-nibber (a block of wood with a file on it) to get rid of junk in the paint.. Happy Xmas 🎄 🍻
Ahh right I will have a look into that! Thanks!
@@HJRgarage Just make sure to file the corners off the nibber before use, cheers..
You've certainly got more patience than I have,good job though.
Thank you! 🙏
Primer is reacting with fresh paint.different gardeners can also cause this issue.this also happens if you use 1k primer on top of fresh 2k paint.only.cure is either wait a month,or use a barcoat isolator.
That’s good to know thanks!
Another little tip keep the gun straight and the same distance away all the time because you’re arching theirs more paint in the middle than the outside.
Good job chief, time to scratch it.all doing the engine swap haha
Nice one Jason! 👍🏻
you done really well have had over 50 years of paint work its not easy
if you localise it turn the the gun down and thin the paint down more
That’s really god to know thanks 👍🏻
I had to repaint my MG Midget boot lid , the same green colour used here. I actually went as far as 3000 grit on my orbital sanding before taking to McGuires compound. I dont think more coarse than 3000 grit is enough to remove all scratches. I played around quite a bit and actually repainted that boot lid 3 times before going to those super fine grits. Yes, with a foam pad to hold the discs and water. When you get to a 3000 grit the polishing is minimal. The paint reaction could be remnants of the polish or cutting compound not being cleaned fully away before repainting.
I would pick a panel to work on the technique before experimenting on the whole car. There are some small mini spray guns for redoing small areas and I actually used one of those to respray the boot. They were only about 10 pounds on ebay for the mini spray guns. 20psi pressure from the gun. .
That’s good to know! How hard was it to blow it in? Or did you just sand off the over spray?
@@HJRgarage I was running at only about 20 psi with straight cellulose paint, but there was some reaction to lower layers that showed as blisters when there was a frost, probably when the restorer allowed damp into the primer. I had to sand it all right back to primer to find the fault , but the boot lid was only a small panel, then reprime and topcoat again. You have to play with the pressure and paint so there is no overspray. First I was using too high an air pressure and too much fan width and paint, the droplets were like smoke in my garage. Lowering the pressure gave good atomisation but bigger droplets and less overspray. This time of year is too cold and there are so many variables you just have to see what works with your kit. Practice on an old panel. All situations are different.
I could be wrong and I normally am but I think having a proper polisher would help as you said because it’ll get a good result quicker than a DA which is a weird way would take less paint off while achieving the finish you want?
I did invest in one you are correct 👍🏻
@ well don’t hold me to what I said….. also don’t give up mate. When it’s done you will have a sense of achievement that will make it all worthwhile
If you do a job, why don’t do it good? It probably takes more time to learn the skill, but you end up with something good. Also, talk to people who are skilled, the head start knowledge you get from them is priceless! That is, I assume you want to do more cars in the future or, when this is a one time job, learn as much from it.
Oh I will be doing more in the future (if I can convince the wife) 😂
Don't get disheartened mate it's how we learn. I'm in the process of painting a ford galaxy. I'll send pics when it's done. That reaction is too much primer at once and reacted or you have contamination there. Couple of dust coats first then your ok to prime.
That’s really good to know! I honestly had no idea on that one!
I don't understand why you don't make it Green pearlescent? two coats mixed in with lacquer 3-5 and then two plane coats on top. it will look like a hard boiled green sweet.
I would have thought the bubbling is some type of grease you really want to go over with acetone and then isopropanol. The acetone will cut into the paint
What psi at the gun were you painting at ? Looked like a huge fan with loads of bounce back
It was around 28psi which was at the lower end of the operating range 🤷🏽♂️
when using buffer wet the sponge with g3
What make/type is the paint you used.
It’s 2k ral6005 with some extra black 👍🏻
you have not done anything wrong. its the thinners in the paint reacting with the filler or new paint because it not hardened some times you have to seal them with polyester coating
That’s also really good to know thanks
Great video Henry, everyone loves a tryer. Your warts and all efforts to succeed are a true inspiration. My only advice is, if your working nights and spending all day in the man cave, get some vitamin D supplements. I would also like to,(against political correctness). Wish you and yours a very merry Christmas and happy new year.
Thank you Steven don’t worry the vitamin D supplements are in the system! Merry Christmas to you as well! 👍🏻
Henry i think you just wanted the extra practice with the spray gun, looks like you have it all in hand now.
😂 nope I can categorically say that was not the reason 😂
You have the paint to match, flat around the thin area, blow in with a touch up gun and use an aerosol blend/thinner at the edges of the spray to dissolve the dry edge into the paint. There is no need to repaint the whole car.
Ahh ok I will have a look into that!
@@HJRgarage Well worth learning. Can save a lot of time and effort.
you have to use loads off soap
I'm sure theres not much that a vinyl roof and some racing stripes wouldn't fix! :-D - Authentically 70's as well - especially if you paint the bonnet matt black!
I was thinking of all sorts of cover ups 😂 but I thought I want to do it right!
buffers run at slower speed
On old cars like this you should consider using Barcoat.
Not sure what this is! But I will
Look it up
Barcoat is a barrier primer. Take a look at Tasty classics video when painting the Spitfire. I’ve used it a number of times in the past and it works.
Great chanel🎉🥂🥳
I appreciate it
You have a fantastic nature. You’re doing awesome work Henry, learning and sharing your learnings with us. PS: Please know you’re as sexy as.
😂😂 thanks Ray much needed confidence booster 😂
@@HJRgarageHehe 😂❤ I’m pleased. Well if you haven’t been told in a while, you have now been told, you’re as sexy as.
Gutted the flat down went so bad for you. It is annoying when different paints react, you needed to spray barrier paint, such as Barcoat(it’s similar to primer) over the area and you would then have been able to prime then paint the panel without any reaction
So many products involved in painting! I thought I was starting to get the hang of it 😂 thanks for watching 👍🏻
Water
Less is best, use less paste and do smaller areas
Right ok! I will try that next time 👍🏻 thanks
the paint will be wet for at least a week that why it reacting
airbrush it back in
@@expatliferealspain1175 I was tempted to but I’m not sure how to do that!
Slow passes and less product 4x pea size on pad dab it it across panel then it it pop
Thanks! I’m new to this 😂
I’m 21 minutes into your video and you’re not doing the polishing process correctly at all, Send me a message somehow and I’ll talk you through the entire process because you do not understand the process, I’m a 25 year master tech and also crash damage repair and been detailing for 15 years now as well I’d like to help you before you burn through the clear coat… (You may need to flow coat it now) all the advice in the comments are from people who are not professionals. I will help you and explain some things over the phone so you can get the paint perfect as it can be.
Yes I have worked out that I am not doing it correctly! I have a friend who is a professional detailer his is going to come and give me a hand! So thanks for the offer but I should have it covered 👍🏻
happy xmas henry
Thanks! And to you!
More coats the better bud
So I have learned 😂 thanks!