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Great job, like the way you just do it, no messing.

Do you really have to remove high pressure fuel pump

I am getting ready to change the transfer case fluid on my 985.2 Cayenne GTS. I ordered 2 bottles of Ravenol DTF-1 from Parts Geek, but received 2 bottles of Motul 75W90. There's a lot of conflicting information about whether you can or should use 75W90 fluid in the transfer case. I didn't receive the product I ordered, so I'm inclined to send it back for refund or exchange (provided they have the Ravenol DTF-1), but I'd first like to receive comments on these fluids, and which one I should use in my Porsche vehicle.

I am getting ready to change the transfer case fluid on my 985.2 Cayenne GTS. I ordered 2 bottles of Ravenol DTF-1 from Parts Geek, but received 2 bottles of Motul 75W90. There's a lot of conflicting information about whether you can or should use 75W90 fluid in the transfer case. I didn't receive the product I ordered, so I'm inclined to send it back for refund or exchange (provided they have the Ravenol DTF-1), but I'd first like to receive comments on these fluids, and which one I should use in my Porsche vehicle.

What size were the sockets?

Can you do without the socket, or would you recommend I just get the right one

Obdeleven will do the oil service light reset in about two seconds. Highly recommended.

Porsche engineering is a nightmare 😢

Hi, don't you need a rubber ring or washer for plug!? Or some of grease for plug!? Very helpful videos!!!!!

If you ALSO RAISE the seat the 10m triple square is very easy to get at. So in addition to leaning the seat forward while you slide fore and aft also raise it. Thank you Kevin. Great tips. I really appreciate this. Used my jump box and this all worked out fine for me.

Harbor Freight has a knock off set but: I have been researching the Daytona ESCO knock off jack stands and it appears they are rated for 3 tons (6000 pounds) as a pair that means they are really only 1.5 tons each for a total of 3 tons combined. The ESCO jack stands are rated 3 tons for each jack stand by itself. This is likely because Harbor Freight's Daytona knock off is made with softer steel. So those thinking they will get the same thing from Harbor Freight know up front they rate their knock offs at 3 tons for the pair.

Rachet jack stands are good designs, the problem is manufacturing of them has all moved to China and China does not have the same quality of metals used as USA made rachet jack stands of the past.

Hey great video, I just want to ask whether your Q8 burns engine oil or not. Mine burns a qurt of engine oil almost every 3000km, is it normal? Also, is it a good idea to switch the oil from ow20 to 0w30?

2011 Audi A4 w ContiProContacts…smoothest tire money can buy…have an SQ5 now and looking to put these on her. Continental are the nice riding tire money can buy

Hi, I'm Maurizio from Italy. Thanks for the video. I'd like to ask you a question: is the key to remove the brake caliper a Torx or another type of key? Thank you very much.

Thanks for this. It was very helpful for my 2016. It took longer than it should have. Better Lighting would have been a great help. Thanks Bill

I have a cayenne 2011 s hybrid, can i use 5w40 instead of 0w40?

Are u in Az😂

Thank you 😊

Great video!!! Did you leave 3.25” inches of threads on both the front and rear to achieve the desired ride height, or is that measurement different?

I have the same calipers( black ones brinbo 6 cylinder ) , what size rotors did you use 150mm or 160mm

Hi, I'm Maurizio from Italy. I wanted to ask you 2 things: the first thing is if the car, at the end of all the work, gave you some message on the dashboard and the second is if when you finished the work you went to test the car at reduced speed. Thanks.

Do they talk the whole fcking time ??

The white post is to knock down high spots. They have instructions for a reason

Read instructions. Clean area w/ release agent. Let dry. Hold pull tab 10 seconds. Then let set 2-3 minutes OR MORE. Special note in instruction. “Allow glue to harden completely. May take several minutes depending on amount of glue.”

Badly engineered VAG crap

Красавчик! Все доходчиво

You should try doing a B12 chemtool piston soak and make a video. Low tension piston rings coking up and causing heavy oil consumption is pervasive with VAG engines and DI engines in general. Check out some of this guy's videos on doing those, one is a Touareg with VR6: th-cam.com/video/7aY1yDxSiJw/w-d-xo.html

Thanks for the video. I'm really curious what your rear jack point was?

Would this procedure also work on a 2014 base?

Thanks for sharing

👍

Absolutely fantastic video. There is no way I would've tried, let alone done this job without reviewing this great tutorial several times. As many have said in the comments, anyone attempting to take on this task will be grateful for Kevin taking the time to record and edit the journey that is this procedure. I bought the replacement diaphragm thinking that repairing the PCV valve in my 2008 Cayenne 3.6l V6 would be as straight forward as it is with the other versions of the Cayenne remove a cap and replace the diaphragm), and I was initially crushed when I finally realized where that disc lived (under the valve cover, in the rear on the passenger side). After watching this several times I dove in. In addition to the video, I learned a lot from the other comments and also from my own experience. Here area few items that may or may not have been covered by others or the video (especially since the video is about a 958, not the 957, which I have): 1. Allow MANY hours for the first disassembly. Once everything is removed, you will be able to more easily see where things should be and how to re-attach them, but it can be frustrating to get to some of the items when you have not done this before. case in point -- I made a mistake in the re-assembly that meant that I needed to remove the intake manifold for a second time. It only took me 2 hours, where the first time I did it was much, much longer. If you can allow yourself the time, it will cut down on your frustration. 2. Many of the items are in very tight quarters, making direct line of sight difficult -- especially during the disassembly. I bought an inexpensive endoscope on Amazon (get the one with its own screen, the one that feeds the image to your phone has terrible battery life) which allowed me to see into the nooks and crannies as I was going. Extremely helpful. 3. There is much said in the comments about the evil pipe (in the 957, it is black) that runs just below the intake manifold on the driver's side from around midway to about the end of the intake manifold. It's all true -- that thing is right in the way of two of the triple-square bolts on that side. It was super frustrating for me, especially since I didn't quite understand how it was held in place. Yes, there is a screw that is inexplicably attached from the underside of the manifold towards the rear end, and it HAS to be removed before you can move that damn pipe. The other connection on the pipe which becomes a million times more obvious after the intake manifold comes off is a flat bracket that is attached to/part of the pipe, around 5 or 6 inches toward the front of the car from that upside-down screw. You can't see the bracket before the manifold is removed because it is hidden by the solenoid, and also because it is tucked up to the underside of the intake manifold. It has two holes/slots in it that correspond to two screws in the underside of the intake manifold, so when it is described that you should "slide the pipe forward to release it" what is meant is that "forward" means towards the front of the car, and what will happen is that the bracket will be slid to the point where the holes in the bracket match up with the screws in the manifold, allowing pipe to drop down a little (you will need to push on it), giving you at least a slightly better path for removing the triple-square bolts in the middle and toward the rear. 4. Even more has been said about the "bridge" pipe between the upper fuel rail and the lower fuel rail. Some that have commented say that you only need to disconnect one end or the other, and others have said that the pipe must come out or it will be bent as you remove the intake manifold . I did it both ways, removing the pipe the first time I took off the manifold and detaching one end the next. I can say without a doubt that I should have completely removed it both times, as I did bend that hard line, which caused much grief later, and ultimately resulted in my having to replace that 5 inch long pipe at a cost of $59. I think that the reason that some have said that you can skip removing the whole pipe is because it is impossible (at least in my vehicle) to get at both ends of that pipe without removing the fuel pump and the two lines coming off the top of it. I also removed the fuel pressure sensor to give my fat fingers more room will loosening the bottom connection of that bridge pipe. It takes more time to remove all of those items, but for me it was just easier, and I lost any time savings because the pipe got bent. And another note about the fuel pump: on the 957 the Torx screws/bolts take a size 30 Torx wrench, not the size 27 mentioned for the 958. 5. Last, as others have mentioned, hoses may very well break in your hands as you remove them. As soon as I tried to take off the crankcase breather hose (one of the first steps :) it split in two. Same thing with the small, corrugated hose that goes from the solenoid to the plastic device at the front of the manifold. While it is not directly related to this repair, the brake booster pump lines are at the rear of the engine compartment. They are fairly hard plastic, and the ends will likely have split where they were pushed onto the barbed fittings, causing a vacuum leak. And while the valve cover gasket looked fine (I did plan on replacing it), the moment that I tried to pry some of it out of its groove it snapped, showing how dried out it had become. You can save yourself some time by ordering replacements for the hoses and gaskets before you head into this job. All of the above being said, it was well worth the struggle of this doing this job. In addition to the huge savings on labor, it was really satisfying to know that several nagging issues with this car were solved. I hope your repair goes smoothly!

Thanks Kevin!

New toy???

So I changed the battery after still having the original for 8 years. It was working fine. I decided to switch the battery because the voltage was going up to 14.3 or 14.4 and I thought that was kind of high and maybe the alternator is working to hard. After the battery change the voltage it is the same. Is that normal? I was hoping for the voltage to drop into the 13s. Is it because I didn't "register" the battery through software?

Thank you!

Thanks for sharing!

It's a perfect video, I just have a problem to get those 2 bottom bolt off

Thanks for sharing

Very clear video. Thank you.

You focused on the old jack stand teeth. They aren't the problem. The problem is the catch mechanism which engages the teeth. It is held in place by a 2mm set screw. That's the issue.

If you are leaving the jack under the vehicle after lifting it for added safety, something is wrong. That is the whole point of using jack stands. Never rely on the jack. So, just get 4 jack stands.

I bought 4 and the first thing I did was to spend 20 minutes removing all labels. Goo remover is needed to get any left over sticky stuff off. The stands look better without all the advertisements.

It’s a T27 but yeah good video

Only do this when the heads are cold, and nickel anti seize on the spark plug threads would be warranted. Thanks for the video!

Thank you, great video, nice and clear!

Great video. Wish I had the time to do this because the pcv valve on my Cayenne 958 just went and now about to pay the dealer 3k to replace it

Great video! I was able to knock out front and back brakes courtesy of your great instructions. My first brake job and it really went smoothly thanks to this video. I also swapped the brake wear sensors but had a wear indicator for the front show up about 4 weeks later. I inspected and, of course, found the pads were just fine so I replaced the sensor. The reset procedure (ignition on, press, press, hold, hold, hold) kept coming back with "Unsuccessful" VERY FRUSTRATING! But I found the magic fix on a BMW video. Now, when I jack the car up to work on the front, I chock and set the parking brake for the rear. But, YOU CANNOT RESET THE FRONT BRAKE WEAR SENSOR IF THE PARKING BRAKE IS ON! I shut off the parking brake, tried the reset procedure again, and it cleared immediately. Just an interesting note for those that set the parking brake for a little added security when working off jackstands. Thanks again, man. You saved me big bucks and I learned something! Win-win!