วีดีโอ

was expecting more than just a build tutorial

Hello, I also bought this kit but what did you use for the can bus cable? I have exactly like you but I can't find the support x)

Very nice assebling guide, but I'm feeling like in circus with clowns because of this background melody.😄 Anyway thank you for the video and I wish your channel growth and success.

Thank you very much for sharing this.

How do you know what length to cut the wires too? I'm Nervous to fuck this up lol

Hello :) When trying to run the a post processing script with Orcas Slicer it gives me an error 01 and says that the post processing script failed. However when I use the same exact path and script in PS it works perfectly. This is weird, because the script has absolutely worked in the past with orca. I hope you can guide me on how to resolve my issue, as I'm pretty lost atm. Script path: "C:\Users\SmukkeAnd\Desktop\Genveje\Nerdy Stuff\preprocess_cancellation.exe";

That third hand is impressive. 🤣

This is really helpful! I'm not sure if this is a common issue, but whenever I try to put the idlers back to their positions, I end up racking the gantry because it's difficult to pull them without causing racking. Does anyone have any tips for this?

Thanks for this video, had someone else build my Voron and I needed to replace the hotend so this helped immensely to know how it was all put together!

hello, does it print tpu? what should I check if having troubles with tpu? thanks

Can you do the Kirigami bed without messing with the bed cables? just dont use the wagos?

I got the Linneo wire harness. Each component has its own positive and negative wire. Do I need to make a single +5V wire for everything as well as the common ground for everything else?

That looks almost identical to the Apogee toolhead.

Great topic, thanks 👍

It doesn't look like much force is required to lift the toolhead overcoming the magnets. Has it ever caused a issue fast printing ?

Echoing another comment. The music adds nothing but a headache. I really don’t understand why the music is louder than the voiceover.

This is great when building your printer which I currently am. what do folks do to clean and lube once i's built? Great to the point vid. Thanks

Prove me wrong but this is nothing more than a visualization of the Voron build manual !?! If you can read you can build it! Confirmed at least 1000 times.

music way too loud, but helpful video on mute

hi. what orca slicer settings did you use-same as 2.4 but edited? is it possible the config is available for download at all? many thanjs

Hey, you probably want to update the link here, as it is linking to badware and an inactive page

I love it, Thanks!

What filament is being used ?

No Rapido UHF option. I'm looking for a toolhead that handles the rapido uhf and the biqu microprobe.

Very great video 😊 Can you do a tutorial on how to download the firmware and on the wiring I’m conferring buying one but I want to make sure that I understand everything before making this big purchase thank you again and I love your content keep up the amazing work

Nice build... What you use for reference for the wiring diagram? I look at the manual and it doesnt say anything about the wiring diagram Or just use the V2.4 as reference?

Is that lrs 200 a 8.8A ....!?

Nice. I appreciate the effort of all the content creators here. But there was more good and more correct info here in 5 minutes and 3 seconds than the other hour+ streams on this build. Thanks!

Dumb question. For the blue wire, does it go from the first match stick to the same point on the second matchstick instead of giving both a 3 pin connector?

This should be the standard for any manual to (actual) assembly instructions video.

Hello, I bought it and installed it but experienced a gears skipping problem. I check all the assembly that seems correct and motor alone works normally. It's when I assemble the planetary gears that the skipping issue. Any clue ? Thanks

Did the M8P come with the kit?

I was putting mine together last night and noted on page 31 of the manual that the bearing retainer screws should be "just above flush". In the video though, you specifically say they should be flysh with the printed part. Was this an undocumented change made to the build process?

Is there ant cheap options when it comes to a soldering iron that is thin enough to maneauver the tollhead pcb heat insert?

Can you publish your config?

nice

How did you wire the other 4010 blower fan ?

is there something different on a btt skr pico because i cant get it to work.

mine has backlash, LDO kit with injection molded gear box.... kind of disappointed in the quality.

Thanks for the commercial. /s

Argh... This music is really unbearable. I can't watch it to the end.

Unfortunate that you didn't show shaper graphs from before and after.

How well did that adhesive hold up over time for the slot wire duct? It seems like a really good idea but I don't know if the high temps might cause the adhesive to loosen.

Thank you for the great built video! I have seen, that you screwed metal plates on top of the aluminum extrusions of the y axis. Can you please tell me, what the purpose of them are?

Are those tr8x8 leadscrew motors on z axis?

What temperature do you use for the soldering pan to push the inserts ? Thanks for the video.

How did your do this? line by line or?

Would you consider selling this printer?

Why not use it on a 2.4 or Troodon 2.0?

What is this song I know this song but how, why, where?