3:09 "Connect the rest of the wires" is a little bit like "Draw the rest of the f___ing owl" 😂I guess I'm supposed to cross-reference the table on the GitHub with the labels on the silkscreen, but I really wish there was just a labeled diagram of the PCB layout. The silkscreen labels are super tiny and partially obstructed by the connectors, and the extra mental step creates more space for error than I would prefer
Great Video! AND Perfect timing... I've just finished building the StealthBurner on my SwitchWire and this is exactly what I wanted to have (No more Crimping!). Thanks guys
I am confused, what are the pros and cons of using 1 PCB vs using 2 PCBs ? Are so many times to disassemble the front to justify PBC 2? Thinking about if any replacement for fans or leds then became more tedious by the fact that now is needed soldering and cutting the plugs by factory.
We end up taking the stealthburner off our printers a lot. Testing out mods, changing out hot ends, or just for maintenance. The 2 pc was a game changer so we didn't have to constantly fiddle with short wires and finicky connectors.
@@MapleLeafMakers Now I have understand perfectly, I was not thinking in the hotend as maintenance. I am beginning to build my kit Voron 2.4, then the best way is to install the Stealthburner with the 2 PCBs. I stay convinced then, :) thank you.
I got the Linneo wire harness. Each component has its own positive and negative wire. Do I need to make a single +5V wire for everything as well as the common ground for everything else?
I installed this recently, and fans work hotend works. The leds don't work or the filament sensor port. If i plug in the fs port, the printer won't start the psu lights up, then turns off. Do you think i have a bad pcb?
Can you all add the products you used in the video to the description? Solder? That paste/prep pen? Is that somesort of flux compound? I am just learning electronics. I built a Voron 2.4, but my father in law did all the wiring and electronics. I am in the middle of doing one 100% myself, and just haven't been exposed to all the nuances. I am plenty experienced enough to get it right ... eventually .. would help if the content creators added the extra details. One thing I noticed was that the solder in this video was much thinner/smaller dia than what I have been using, and think it may be advantageous. Obviously, I can find that on google, but a product list for everything used would help people watching your videos for educational/learning purposes.
Thanks for the feedback, we'll work on adding that to future videos. In the meantime, here is the flux pen: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ELUI19Q/ I don't know where the solder came from, it pre-dates the channel by many years and the label has worn off.
Hi! I am just finishing my Enderwire mode using an SKR Mini E3 V3.0. I didn't buy a harness so I am making my own and I dont have a LDO Breakout Board. Where should I get the 5V PSU and Ground from (Which pin on the SKR)? I am a little bit confused. It would be nice to have an example Picture of the connections in a board without the LDO Breakout Board. Thanks again for the awesome Product! I was having nightmares about maintenance.
@@starblazer13 Unfortunately we can't add text annotations, but I've uploaded a new diagram here: imgur.com/a/Ur2Z5xK which will also be in the official project README on github soon. will also add a note in the video description.
@Jaron Kennell can you be more specific? I've checked it multiple times, and had other people verify it as well. It shows the pins as viewed from the bottom of the connector, not the top. maybe that's just unconventional, I'm not aware of a standard for these things.
There are some minor changes to make on the mainboard-side, (the chamber thermistor wire needs to be moved to a 5v source) you can find details in the readme for the hartk board: github.com/hartk1213/Voron-Hardware-SBPCB/tree/master/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit--afterburner-toolhead-pcb-upgrade
I did everything as in the video, I put the signal wire for the neopixel in the intended place, but at the junction of the two PCB cards I only have 3.2V to power the neopixel. Any advice?
If you're upgrading from the afterburner PCB, double check the instructions here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade to make sure you're supplying 5v to the breakout board correctly.
One question: did you fully tighten the 2 screws to hold the main PCB? If I do that, my 2nd PCB won't align properly, so I have to leave them loose. Thanks
this can happen if the connector on one of the 2 pcbs is a little bit out of alignment. if you need to put a washer behind the printed spacer to get everything to align, that's okay.
Wiring up this PCB just now, and your video shows you wiring up the black fan wire to 'S' and not 'G'. Shouldn't black fan wires connect to ground? I have both of my black fan leads soldered to 'G', should I move them? I haven't finished wiring the rest of the print head yet.
Due to the fact that the breakout board is unique to LDO kits, and there are several options for mainboards, we chose to leave out any footage of that wiring. The pinout diagram at 3:03 describes where each wire needs to go, and there is documentation on the changes required for the LDO Breakout board in the github repository here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade
@@MapleLeafMakers okay yeah I understand that.. I’m using the hartk sb single pcb board and LDO breakout board but I’m using an skr mini e3 v2 so wanted to make sure I was doing it right
@@MapleLeafMakers could the same one as toolhead be used? Or easier option? which pinout#? Also you have to move a Jumper and connect to the fan port at breakout board when using LDO wiring? My Plan is go Kicky Mod and was told have to be careful as you can send 24v to octopus board and see the Magic Smoke? lol Thanks again
Any thermistor that works with klipper will work as a chamber thermistor.. The same one used in your hotend will work fine. The wiring change is not *just* for the LDO kit. you need to send 5v to the toolhead board on the correct pin, and you can get that 5v from one of the last 2 fan headers on your octopus (the always-on ones) with the jumper set to 5v
I think we only used stainless screws in this video, but if there were any titanium flatheads, they'd have been from a set of titanium extrusion backers that never got used.
@Jason C I just rewatched this entire video... I don't see any titanium screws, and there is no voiceover on this one, so I don't think we mentioned anything about titanium screws either... maybe you're thinking of the Tap video? that's the only place I can think of that we used titanium screws, but it was not for weight.. we just needed something magnetic, and all we had for magnetic flat-heads was the titanium ones.
You're absolutely right. We were already using the LDO toolhead PCB before this upgrade, so the correct cable-cover was already installed. We'll add a comment to the video description to clarify.
@@Vr-pits-simulation Yes but you will need to swap around some wires. There is documentation on the changes required for the LDO Breakout board in the GitHub repository here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade
@@MapleLeafMakers If fans fails then now is needed to solder and cutting the plugs (tedious when is a fault unexpected) , I have my doubts if this have benefits.
@@hektor010101 Absolutely, yes. We decided this is much simpler then having to cut / crimp on connectors every time. The wires are too long anyway so no matter what you ahve to cut. We like solder! Fast and easy with very little messing around. Over 2000h on the 2.4's so far and not a single fan burn out though thankfully!
@@fullydoved As I run my fans voltage overclocked I go through a few fans I think cutting and crimping a new connector is much quicker then setting up a soldering iron, prepping, tinning and soldering then putting everything away. Seems too much of unnecessary steps to me. Idk maybe I'm wrong but in my eyes this doesn't make sense yet. Connecting all other connectors I understand like thermistors and heaters but not soldering fans to the pads
You don't need to solder the connections, it's possible to install 90 degree dupont pins there as well. We just showed what we think to be the best option, but you should do what works for you.
I'm sorry but design of fan/led PCB is $hit. Thru-hole header has been used instead of surface mount one and this results in wobble. The way PCB is shaped and location of the mounting holes doesnt make it better. I've seen screen shot from ECAD and the shape of the PCB is very random and manual, same with traces. In ECAD and gerber files, the PCB has been left angled, that means the PCB costs more to make for no reason, angle it slightly so the top is horizontal, boom your PCB is half the price... Only 24V and 5V traces are thicker, other ones that are meant to be return going to the controller board, are very thin. If holes need to be so close to the edge, then you are supposed to make it a slot, on the right side away from the connectors, the spacing around mounting hole is so small that the PCB in that spot falls into the counter-sunk hole. Hole size on header connecting the led/fan pcb with the toolhead pcb are to loose for this application and the connectors end up not being soldered not exactly straight and those two don't align, for me and other guy in comments it looks like you need to leave the screws loose so things align and don't get bent.
3:09 "Connect the rest of the wires" is a little bit like "Draw the rest of the f___ing owl" 😂I guess I'm supposed to cross-reference the table on the GitHub with the labels on the silkscreen, but I really wish there was just a labeled diagram of the PCB layout. The silkscreen labels are super tiny and partially obstructed by the connectors, and the extra mental step creates more space for error than I would prefer
First TH-camr with 3 hands as far as I know. Thanks for the video
There's a fourth one around here somewhere too... :)
Great Video! AND Perfect timing... I've just finished building the StealthBurner on my SwitchWire and this is exactly what I wanted to have (No more Crimping!).
Thanks guys
It's a great upgrade, enjoy!
This 2 part board is the ONLY way to go. Great video.
Couldn't agree more!
I am confused, what are the pros and cons of using 1 PCB vs using 2 PCBs ?
Are so many times to disassemble the front to justify PBC 2?
Thinking about if any replacement for fans or leds then became more tedious by the fact that now is needed soldering and cutting the plugs by factory.
We end up taking the stealthburner off our printers a lot. Testing out mods, changing out hot ends, or just for maintenance. The 2 pc was a game changer so we didn't have to constantly fiddle with short wires and finicky connectors.
@@MapleLeafMakers Now I have understand perfectly, I was not thinking in the hotend as maintenance. I am beginning to build my kit Voron 2.4, then the best way is to install the Stealthburner with the 2 PCBs. I stay convinced then, :) thank you.
I got the Linneo wire harness. Each component has its own positive and negative wire. Do I need to make a single +5V wire for everything as well as the common ground for everything else?
I installed this recently, and fans work hotend works. The leds don't work or the filament sensor port. If i plug in the fs port, the printer won't start the psu lights up, then turns off. Do you think i have a bad pcb?
Can you all add the products you used in the video to the description? Solder? That paste/prep pen? Is that somesort of flux compound? I am just learning electronics. I built a Voron 2.4, but my father in law did all the wiring and electronics. I am in the middle of doing one 100% myself, and just haven't been exposed to all the nuances. I am plenty experienced enough to get it right ... eventually .. would help if the content creators added the extra details. One thing I noticed was that the solder in this video was much thinner/smaller dia than what I have been using, and think it may be advantageous. Obviously, I can find that on google, but a product list for everything used would help people watching your videos for educational/learning purposes.
Thanks for the feedback, we'll work on adding that to future videos. In the meantime, here is the flux pen: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ELUI19Q/
I don't know where the solder came from, it pre-dates the channel by many years and the label has worn off.
Hi! I am just finishing my Enderwire mode using an SKR Mini E3 V3.0. I didn't buy a harness so I am making my own and I dont have a LDO Breakout Board. Where should I get the 5V PSU and Ground from (Which pin on the SKR)? I am a little bit confused. It would be nice to have an example Picture of the connections in a board without the LDO Breakout Board. Thanks again for the awesome Product! I was having nightmares about maintenance.
did you ever get this sorted out? I'm in the exact same boat, would love to see a diagram like they have for the octopus.
The octopus diagram is confusing
Where does the 24v and 5v and ground go to?
To the PSUs? @@calgarysparky
Your wiring diagram is upside down and people probably will get confused if they don't notice the latch orientation
Sorry about the confusion, we weren't giving any thought to how they are actually laid out on the PCB.
@@MapleLeafMakers Might want to add some annotations in the video cause depinning microfit 3.0 is a total nightmare...
@@starblazer13 Unfortunately we can't add text annotations, but I've uploaded a new diagram here: imgur.com/a/Ur2Z5xK which will also be in the official project README on github soon. will also add a note in the video description.
@@MapleLeafMakers that diagram is wrong too
@Jaron Kennell can you be more specific? I've checked it multiple times, and had other people verify it as well. It shows the pins as viewed from the bottom of the connector, not the top. maybe that's just unconventional, I'm not aware of a standard for these things.
Any idea if a wiring harness from LDO will plug right into that 2 piece hartk PCB without any re-wiring?
There are some minor changes to make on the mainboard-side, (the chamber thermistor wire needs to be moved to a 5v source) you can find details in the readme for the hartk board: github.com/hartk1213/Voron-Hardware-SBPCB/tree/master/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit--afterburner-toolhead-pcb-upgrade
I did everything as in the video, I put the signal wire for the neopixel in the intended place, but at the junction of the two PCB cards I only have 3.2V to power the neopixel. Any advice?
If you're upgrading from the afterburner PCB, double check the instructions here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade to make sure you're supplying 5v to the breakout board correctly.
After installing this, I lost my probe. I've changed ports, diods, probes and wiring. Anyone have similar issues? Checked several forums also.
so naive question, how to connect 4 wired blower? there's technically 4 pins on the board for it but can't find wiring scheme..
Not sure, sorry. We haven't put any 4-wire fans in any of our machines.,
1:23 Where did those huge mounds of solder that were added seconds earlier go? 🤣
What the juicy applicator pump?
Solder flux pen. My Next level soldering I hope. lol
One question: did you fully tighten the 2 screws to hold the main PCB? If I do that, my 2nd PCB won't align properly, so I have to leave them loose. Thanks
this can happen if the connector on one of the 2 pcbs is a little bit out of alignment. if you need to put a washer behind the printed spacer to get everything to align, that's okay.
Wiring up this PCB just now, and your video shows you wiring up the black fan wire to 'S' and not 'G'. Shouldn't black fan wires connect to ground?
I have both of my black fan leads soldered to 'G', should I move them? I haven't finished wiring the rest of the print head yet.
Fans are (S)witched/(S)ignaled on the negative side. If you use G they will be always on.
Someone on Discord just pointed out to me that the instructions are silk screened on the back of the fan PCB.🤣I guess I'll move them from 'G' to 'S'.
Thanks for the video. Anyway you can show us where everything gets connected on the breakout board and mcu?
Due to the fact that the breakout board is unique to LDO kits, and there are several options for mainboards, we chose to leave out any footage of that wiring. The pinout diagram at 3:03 describes where each wire needs to go, and there is documentation on the changes required for the LDO Breakout board in the github repository here: github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade
@@MapleLeafMakers okay yeah I understand that.. I’m using the hartk sb single pcb board and LDO breakout board but I’m using an skr mini e3 v2 so wanted to make sure I was doing it right
@@MapleLeafMakers I'm still very interested in a video showing how to connect this PCB in a LDO kit!
Awesome!
Is there a chamber Thermister in the board like LDO kit? If not how did you fix this? TY
There's no chamber thermistor on these boards, but it is possible to connect an external one using the `aux` header instead.
@@MapleLeafMakers could the same one as toolhead be used? Or easier option? which pinout#? Also you have to move a Jumper and connect to the fan port at breakout board when using LDO wiring? My Plan is go Kicky Mod and was told have to be careful as you can send 24v to octopus board and see the Magic Smoke? lol Thanks again
Any thermistor that works with klipper will work as a chamber thermistor.. The same one used in your hotend will work fine.
The wiring change is not *just* for the LDO kit. you need to send 5v to the toolhead board on the correct pin, and you can get that 5v from one of the last 2 fan headers on your octopus (the always-on ones) with the jumper set to 5v
@@MapleLeafMakers Thanks Again!
Amazing. I wish I had a third arm.😜
where were the titanium screws sourced?
I think we only used stainless screws in this video, but if there were any titanium flatheads, they'd have been from a set of titanium extrusion backers that never got used.
@Maple Leaf Makers you mention using titanium because they are half the weight. The stainless would be heavier than steel
@Jason C I just rewatched this entire video... I don't see any titanium screws, and there is no voiceover on this one, so I don't think we mentioned anything about titanium screws either... maybe you're thinking of the Tap video? that's the only place I can think of that we used titanium screws, but it was not for weight.. we just needed something magnetic, and all we had for magnetic flat-heads was the titanium ones.
@Maple Leaf Makers it was another video!? 😅🤣🤣
@Maple Leaf Makers so I guess why did you go stainless? The other video I watched the guy goes titanium which seems expensive but lighter
You left out that a new cover will need to be printed because the original does not fit over the PCB's cables and stuff.
You're absolutely right. We were already using the LDO toolhead PCB before this upgrade, so the correct cable-cover was already installed. We'll add a comment to the video description to clarify.
Does the Ldo breakout board work with this tool head?
@@Vr-pits-simulation Yes but you will need to swap around some wires. There is documentation on the changes required for the LDO Breakout board in the GitHub repository here:
github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/PCBs/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB#ldo-kit-upgrade
What is the benefit of having this installed?
The biggest benefit is that the stealthburner can come right off with no wires. Makes maintenance a breeze!
@@MapleLeafMakers If fans fails then now is needed to solder and cutting the plugs (tedious when is a fault unexpected) , I have my doubts if this have benefits.
What happens when your fans burn out?
We swap with another and keep on printing!
@@MapleLeafMakers they are soldered to the board. Does that mean everytime you burn out a fan you need to desolder a fan connection to replace it?
@@hektor010101 Absolutely, yes. We decided this is much simpler then having to cut / crimp on connectors every time. The wires are too long anyway so no matter what you ahve to cut. We like solder! Fast and easy with very little messing around. Over 2000h on the 2.4's so far and not a single fan burn out though thankfully!
@@fullydoved As I run my fans voltage overclocked I go through a few fans I think cutting and crimping a new connector is much quicker then setting up a soldering iron, prepping, tinning and soldering then putting everything away. Seems too much of unnecessary steps to me. Idk maybe I'm wrong but in my eyes this doesn't make sense yet. Connecting all other connectors I understand like thermistors and heaters but not soldering fans to the pads
You don't need to solder the connections, it's possible to install 90 degree dupont pins there as well. We just showed what we think to be the best option, but you should do what works for you.
Thanks for posting this video! I was wondering what is the paste/clear fluid you're using here th-cam.com/video/PCIwZRPYMZ8/w-d-xo.html
That is a flux pen! Thanks for watching.
Hmmm... wonders if he should take his Stealthburner apart and do this... LOL
Yes... you should! We've got it on a couple of printers now and it's so handy for removing the SB.
@@MapleLeafMakers SOLD LOL. I'm picking it up from Andy later today LOL
I'm sorry but design of fan/led PCB is $hit.
Thru-hole header has been used instead of surface mount one and this results in wobble.
The way PCB is shaped and location of the mounting holes doesnt make it better.
I've seen screen shot from ECAD and the shape of the PCB is very random and manual, same with traces.
In ECAD and gerber files, the PCB has been left angled, that means the PCB costs more to make for no reason, angle it slightly so the top is horizontal, boom your PCB is half the price...
Only 24V and 5V traces are thicker, other ones that are meant to be return going to the controller board, are very thin.
If holes need to be so close to the edge, then you are supposed to make it a slot, on the right side away from the connectors, the spacing around mounting hole is so small that the PCB in that spot falls into the counter-sunk hole.
Hole size on header connecting the led/fan pcb with the toolhead pcb are to loose for this application and the connectors end up not being soldered not exactly straight and those two don't align, for me and other guy in comments it looks like you need to leave the screws loose so things align and don't get bent.
Awesome looking forward to your PCB 👍
@@hartk5353 Oops, didn't mean for you to see it, sorry man.
I can correct the PCB if you will amend yours with it.
@@hartk5353 got this on the way for my voron build. Real excited