The Stealthburner Is Here: A Shockingly Simple Complete Build Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2024
- It's finally here! The Voron Stealthburner is out of beta with a shiny new manual! We've taken everything we learned from our first Stealthburner video, and put together this extremely detailed assembly guide, so you can build your own! Upgrade your Voron 3D printer with the Stealthburner today!
Don't forget to Subscribe, so that you don't miss our next video, where we'll be installing the 2-piece Stealthburner PCB by hartk.
Github: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
Filament: eSun ABS+
Motor: Moons CSE14HRA1L410A-0136 - www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Hot-end Fan: Orion OD4010-24HB - www.digikey.ca/en/products/de...
Part-cooling Fan: www.3dlabtech.ca/product/gdst...
-- Chapters In This Video --
0:00 Intro
0:14 Start Clockwork 2 (CW2) Assembly
0:22 CW2 Heatset Inserts
3:16 CW2 Guilder Arm Assembly
4:42 CW2 Main Body Assembly
6:06 CW2 Latch Installation
7:01 CW2 Gear Meshing
7:41 Cable Bridge
8:16 Cable Cover Installation
8:31 Tool Cartridge Assembly
8:45 Tool Cartridge Heatset Inserts
9:16 Revo Voron Wiring
9:59 Revo Voron Screws
10:19 PTFE Tube
11:07 Stealthburner Assembly
11:13 Trim Stealthburner Supports
11:31 Solder Stealthburner LEDs
13:13 Install Stealthburner LEDs
14:00 Stealthburner Wiring
14:12 Stealthburner Fan Installation
15:50 Installation in Voron 2.4
16:08 X Carriage Heatsets
16:53 X Carriage Installation
17:48 Klicky Probe Installation
18:44 Stealthburner Installation - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I don't usually comment on YT videos, but I think this video deserves a lot of recognition and respect. Thank you for such a beautifully made video. I am sure this will help a lot of people who need guides for the stealthburner.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for this video, had someone else build my Voron and I needed to replace the hotend so this helped immensely to know how it was all put together!
No problem 👍
That third hand is impressive. 🤣
Thank you very much for sharing this.
Thanks for this! Putting together a Stealthburner to upgrade my SV06+ while I source the parts to build myself a Voron 2.4. Just finished printing my black parts and currently printing my accented parts, all in ABS. Your video is definitely getting a bookmark for reference when i go to put it all together!
Finally finished mine. Thanks for the guide!
Glad we could help!
This should be the standard for any manual to (actual) assembly instructions video.
Thank you!
I built my Voron 2.4 awhile back - would have been waay easier if I had this guide then. You do steller video's and 'How To guides' and deserve a big thank you!!!
Great Work!
Thank you! Cheers!
@@MapleLeafMakers If I may comment, and I mean it with the most respect: IMO you shouldn't edit (cut) the parts where things don't go exactly as you want. Watching you fiddling around makes the work more realistic and also one can learn about the unexpected things that may happen.
@@m.kanawati4385 I completely understand the sentiment there, but with this video already being nearly 20m long I'm not sure adding any footage of a missed solder or bolt not lining up properly would be super beneficial. We want to be more 'to the point' then some of the other channels out there doing similar videos.
Omg, you glorious human!! Mine has been sitting in a box, parts and all, waiting on some kind of guide or something to show up.
Hey Caleb! I hope you find it useful. What box is it sitting in?
@@MapleLeafMakers lol, the box of pre-made wiring harness from KB3D. Found it easier to get the LEDs presoldered with abloom to connect to my umbilical and hartk board. Just a box of parts as of now, but now my coming weekend has purpose!
I was looking for a wiring diagram for hours last night and you had one in your video and it’s very helpful and a great video.
all of the graphics come from the official manual put together by the voron design team, all credit goes to them: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/Manual/Assembly_Manual_SB.pdf
6:52 The third hand didn't come supplied in the kit, where did you get yours?
It costs extra :)
6:49 that screw flick game 1337
I know right! it was actually more of a lucky drop, than a flick, but I'll take it :)
ok but now how do i connect the fans?
i got fan0 and fan1, but i cannot seem to figure out what either connects to as i'm not sure if it matters if fan0 becomes the hotend fan or part cooling fan..
Oh man, I love these Voron Build Videos, Pleaseeee Make MANTIS Headtool!
We'll put it on the list!
What filament did you use for the clear part of the front LED part? I can't seem to find any transparent ASA/ABS
That's Clear Nylon PA12 from: filaments.ca/products/nylon-pa12-clear-1-75mm
I've also used this "Transparent ABS" from: 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/filaments/products/transparent-1-75mm-abs-filament-1-kg without a problem.
It's worth pointing out that there is no such thing as transparent ABS / ASA, that's why it can be hard to find. it's always blended with something else, but I don't know with what.
I realize this is a year old, but I use white PLA+. Egads!!! The horror!!! Subdues the brightness a little (which is desirable for me.). Haven’t had any issues with it being PLA either. YMMV.
You need a bit of soldering practice. Always reflux tinned pads. That wire should be sunk into the solder and not half melted in and kept within the pad's perimeter--best practice. While what is shown will work, it has a risk of failure with the temps and vibrations that these connections will be exposed to over time.
Hi Frank! thanks for the feedback. You're absolutely right on all counts. I think *most* of the solder joints on the neopixels are actually fine but there were one or two slightly sketchy ones. Soldering isn't something I get to practice often, and we even debated putting a "This is not a soldering tutorial" disclaimer over that section of the video.
@@MapleLeafMakers I gotta say thanks for the videos you've made and provided for free to support this Voron community! You've helped thousands of ppl build their own Vorons and sub components with your videos.
So even if there's a small issue here or there. Please be proud that you put yourself and your work out there to help others!
None of us are perfect. And it's way easier to point at other's faults than to put in the effort and work to make the dozens of videos you have. It's time you won't get back and it's appreciated!
Where can I get the heat inserts, nuts, bolts etc … amazing video by the way. Gonna try this for my ender 3 v2
If you're in Canada, you can buy a kit here: www.3dlabtech.ca/product/stealthburner-upgrade-kit/
In the US, West3D sells a similar kit: west3d.com/products/stealthburner-stealth-ab-upgrade-kit
@@MapleLeafMakers your amazing!
What type of filament is that blue ones you used?
That's actually Grey eSun ABS+. it definitely has a blue tint to it.
What temperature do you use for the soldering pan to push the inserts ? Thanks for the video.
That depends a lot on what material you are pressing the inserts into. For our CF-ABS we usually press around 265 or so. For Standard ABS 250, PLA 220.
@@MapleLeafMakers I just test it at 300°C on an abs 3d part and it works great. Maybe due to heat loss across the pan.
Hmmmm. Sooooooo I just got done printing the pieces on the x carriage for the stealthburner. Am I seeing that I printed the wrong ones? I am upgrading to the stealthburner on my 2.4r1. Is this for the r2? 12mm rails? Do I need to print new ones for the 9mm? Or do I need to replace the rail? I thought I did enough research but I think I missed this part.
Hmm.. To my knowledge the SB was made for RC1 as well as RC2.
github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/X_Carriage
On that page you can see the MGN9 and MGN12 options. You will definitely need to print new parts for the 9 vs 12 though.
What are the changes needed in Klipper for CW2?
The gear_ratio changes from `50:17` to `50:10`, and you may need to adjust your run_current depending on which specific model of motor you're using. We used 0.5A for the LDO 36STH20 and the Moons CSE14HRA
Did you print your own parts? They look beautiful!
Thank you! Yes we printed all the parts on a Voron with Carbon-Fiber ABS
@Alessandro Fabbris The entire stealthburner was done in CF-ABS from 3DPrintingCanada. I don't remember exactly which printer did these parts, it might have been a V0
we didn't use the CF-ABS on the other structural parts, but I don't think it would be a problem at all, in fact we are planning to do that for the next build.
@@MapleLeafMakers ah it makes sense now why the finish looks so smooth
Hi do you plan to do a configuration video?
Hey! What would you like to see in a configuration video?
do you need to tune anything in the software? or is this plug and play?
Hi! You will have to tweak the gear ratio and configure the neopixel LEDs.
Fantastic video! I'm building a StealthBurner for my Artillery Sidewinder X2 and this is super helpful. I do have a question though, what's the light grease you're using at th-cam.com/video/dOyYvnehLaI/w-d-xo.html ? I instructions say to reference the VoronDesign BOM, but I can't find it listed there. Thanks!
Hi Steve! Thanks for the kind words. That's Superlube we're using on the needle bearings, but it's probably a little bit too light for this application, the same grease you use on your linear rails is fine to use here too.
Is this cw2, So you cant attach a breakout pcb for the wiring?
Yes, this is CW2. You can use the Hartk Stealthburner PCB with this, no problem at all. We'll be releasing a video soon that covers the PCB
Are all these great prints printed in ABS, sir?
Yes they are
Is there ant cheap options when it comes to a soldering iron that is thin enough to maneauver the tollhead pcb heat insert?
A maker with a cheap soldering iron? I think if you have to solder more than 20 joints the next five years an at least temperature regulated soldering station is mandatory. You won't regret for sure. You build an 1000$+ 3d printer and don't want to spend a few bucks for some proper tools?
@@snooker216 i literally have 2 wellers and a hako, i ended up buying a pinecil, my question wasnt, whats the best cheap soldering iron you can get? What I asked was essentially " are there any cheap options for a ts101 style soldering tip that could reach that insert without butchering the 3d printed parts" essentially, which I found in the pinecil
@@michaelmills3898 Then I misinterpreted your question. Personally, I actually use my Weller soldering tip because there is usually no contact with the printing material. A temperature close to the printing temperature and it works, at least for me, without ruining the soldering tip or the printing part.
Glad you found the pinecil! It's a fantastic tool.
Nice build Video 😊 can you Post the Link to the Stl files and the Manual please. Thanks from Germany
You can find everything you need to build one here - github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner
Also added it to the description. Glad you like the video!
Have the fans changed? i have PIF parts fromjan2022 "afterburner" will the same fans work in both iderations??
The part cooling fan is now 5015. The hotend fan hasn't changed.
@@MapleLeafMakers thankyou!!!
I knew that had to be a change other than just the plastic shroud directing the air more accurratly
Can you share your slicer profile to print this sir?
We print using the Andrew Ellis slicer profiles for the most part. You can find it all on GitHub!
github.com/AndrewEllis93/Ellis-PIF-Profile
What hot end is that, and is it better than the v6?
That's the E3D Revo Voron. You can read all about the Revo ecosystem here: e3d-online.com/pages/revo it's a great hot end that we now have in 3 of our printers here.
@@MapleLeafMakers What are the benefits you've noticed over the V6? Worth the upgrade?
The Revo heats up in under a minute. it's crazy fast. The ease of nozzle-changes it's it's major selling point though, no tools, no hot-tightening. just screw/unscrew the nozzle with one hand.
@@MapleLeafMakers You made me order one.
I’m installing the stealth burner with Tap. Can I Just skip the Klicky installation
Absolutely!
@@MapleLeafMakers Thanks! I found your Tap video right after my comment. So I got the full picture now
How come your 3D printed parts look soo smooth on side walls?
Hi Arek! We work pretty hard on tuning our printers for reliable, high quality prints.
When we are going to be printing parts for videos we will often slow things down a little bit just to get that little extra nice-ness on the parts!
Ellis' tuning guide though, it's all we use. That and a lot of trial & error.
@@MapleLeafMakers So it's mostly tuning and lower speeds?
No post processing?
Except the surface when it rested on the bed, those parts looks like injection molded.
What layer height and nozzle diameter was used?
Do you have link for that tuning guide?
Thanks.
@@Arek_R. I think the parts used here were carbon-fiber ABS which helps hide the layer lines too. Ellis's guide can be found here: ellis3dp.com/
@@MapleLeafMakers Thanks.
What layer height did you use?
@@Arek_R. 0.2mm everywhere. if you use a different layer height some features of the stealthburner may not print correctly.
0:30 WHAT IS THIS TOOL?
That's LDO's Heatset insert tool, on a cheap amazon soldering iron: docs.ldomotors.com/guides/heatset_insert_tool_guide
Brother in christ, your parts look almost injection molded, is that straight out of your printer? or did you post process it?
straight out of the printer, the Carbon Fiber fill helps hide the layer lines.
@@MapleLeafMakers is carbon fiber the additive for esuns abs+? Gotto get me a few spoils of that then. Also beautiful guide btw
@@FutaNoKami No, there isn't any carbon fiber in eSun abs+. This is CF-ABS.
@@FutaNoKami The CF-ABS we use is from 3dPrintingCanada and is not an eSun product.
Prove me wrong but this is nothing more than a visualization of the Voron build manual !?! If you can read you can build it! Confirmed at least 1000 times.
The manual does show a lot but having somebody show exactly how to connect certain parts helps. I love Lego manuals, for example, but some people have trouble visualizing the orientation of some assemblies and this video solves the same problem.
what did you do with stepper motor wire ? just tuck it in ? my ldo has very long one, not sure if i should make it shorter and recrimp ends or leave it as is.
also what layer height did you print those parts? looks very smooth
We made our wire shorter so it was pretty much exact length.
The parts are printed at the standard 0.2mm layer height